Solved Changed ram on XP dual core, got four beeps now wont start.

April 25, 2012 at 10:11:16
Specs: Win XP, Intel Pentium D 830 / 3.0 GHz /1 gig
Changed ram on XP dual core, got four beeps now wont start.
Wanted to upgrade from 1 gig of RAM to 2 gigs. Got a single 2 gig stick, and installed it. Turned the PC on and got four loud angry beeps. Shut down the PC, changed back to the original memory, but when the computer is switched on, tho it sounds as if it is starting, I have nothing on the screen, and the light on the start button on the front doesn't light.
The memory was the correct type, the only difference was it was 2 gigs on a single stick versus a 1 gig pair, and the slot was correct for single stick installation. The system can handle up to 4 gigs of RAM

See More: Changed ram on XP dual core, got four beeps now wont start.

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✔ Best Answer
April 27, 2012 at 07:26:11
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.

Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
http://www.badcaps.net/

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, fried Athlon cpus, etc.:
http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Jo...
......

If you find no bad capacitors....

Your mboard SHOULD work fine with the ram that was installed in it when the mboard worked fine previously.

Did you REMOVE the AC power to the computer at ALL times when you were fiddling with the ram or any connections inside the case ?
If you didn't do that at ALL times, you may have damaged something, and that includes the power supply. .

Did you unplug anything from the mboard and forget to plug it back in ?
Most mboards need two power connectors to be plugged into them.
a 20 or 24 "pin" one, and a 4 or 8 "pin" one.

Unplug the case/power supply, or switch off the AC power to it otherwise.
Power off your monitor.
Check all the connections of the wiring to make sure they are all the way onto their pins and into their sockets, especially the main connector from the power supply. The wires close to the mboard going into the main power connector/socket should be more or less perpendicular to the mboard surface rather than at an angle.
Make sure the ram and all cards in slots are all the way down in their slots.

Has there been a PCI-E X16 video card installed in your mboard's PCI-E X16 slot that it didn't orginally have ?

If yes,

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed.

If that capacity is inadequate, the power supply will be damaged and will fail eventually.

In any case, failing power supplies are common, and it's possible you damaged it.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.

If you can borrow a power supply from another working computer, try connecting that.

If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent quality standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
.............

"It is a Gateway FX400XL "

Gateway FX400XL Desktop Computer (home support page)
http://support.gateway.com/s/pc/FX4...

Components -

Power Supplies

WMEATX-400GW - 400-Watt Power Supply
WMEHP-3057FW - PS 300 W 24-Pin Non-PFC HIPRO
WMEHP-E4008FWR - 400 Watt Power Supply
WMEHP-P3087F3 - HIPRO 300-Watt Power Supply
WMENPS-300BB - Delta 300-Watt Power Supply


Intel (Big Lake) 945G Motherboard
http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHER...

mboard specs
http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHER...

Excerpts:

Chipset Intel 945G chipset with ICH7R

Memory
•Four 240-pin DDR2 SDRAM Dual Inline Memory Module (DIMM) sockets
•DDR2 667 or DDR2 533 MHz DIMMs
•Expandable up to 4 GB total memory

Add-in Card Slots
•One ×16 PCI Express
•One ×1 PCI Express
•Three PCI

On the Intel (Big Lake) 945G Motherboard
web page...

Downloads :
http://support.gateway.com/support/...

Any bios update - How to install
http://support.gateway.com/support/...

(That particular one is for the newest bios update but I looked at many of them and they all have the following line in them.)

Excerpt:

"In the Intel(r) Express BIOS Update Setup dialog box,"

Your mboard is probably an OEM only model (made only for brand name system builders) that was made by Intel, and it's bios is probably an Intel bios version that was slightly modified for or by Gateway..

Desktop Boards
BIOS beep codes
http://www.intel.com/support/mother...

Beep codes for legacy desktop boards

Beep state Meaning

4 Timer not operational

This applies to:

Includes DG945 series

You MAY get a false error beep pattern if your power supply is not working properly.





#1
April 25, 2012 at 11:06:47
Might be due to the computer being disturbed - it can happen. Clean the edge connectors of the old RAM with a pencil eraser then pop it in and out a few times to ensure there is no oxide on the sockets themselves.

You could do the same with any other edge connectors on cards too, also any SATA connections to both the power and signal.

While you are there check and reseat all connectors.

If this gets you anywhere then clean the edge connectors on the new RAM and try again.

If not, pop back and we can take it further - probably best with the old RAM for the time being. Let us know your computer model number at the same time because beep codes vary with manufacturer. If it is a home made rig let us know the mobo model number instead.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#2
April 25, 2012 at 12:29:58
"The system can handle up to 4 gigs of RAM"

If it only has 2 slots, then it supports 2GB sticks, but if it has 4 slots, the max is only 1GB per slot.

"Turned the PC on and got four loud angry beeps"

It would help to know the make/model of your board or at least which BIOS it uses. If it's an AMI BIOS, 4 beeps = "The system clock/timer IC has failed or there is a memory error in the first bank of memory". When you switched back to the original RAM, do you get any beeps?


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#3
April 25, 2012 at 22:42:58
It is a Gateway FX400XL
Four slots... (DOH!)

System clock/timer situation brings back a memory from a computer we "hot rodded" for gaming back when XP was king. I had purchased an ASUS P-something, with a multi frontside, and could run various pentiums including an 800 hyperthreading processor. Long story short, a friend helping me, plugged it in and turned it on, ("NO! Not YET!") where it promptly beeped a couple times and shut down. Wouldn't turn on. He thought he was about to owe me three and a half bills, only later that night I discovered that the ASUS came with a fail-safe that shuts the board down before any damage happens. It required me to re-orient two jumpers to reset the clock, then return them to their original positions. PC was up and running 15 min.s later.

No more beeps, the fans run, but no signal to the screen, no bios, no light @on/off I DO have a green light on the MB inside, but that just indicates there is A.C. power.

O.K. so will try the burnish trick with the old RAM,
I will get more detail from inside the case,
I will check my connects
and I will post it asap.

Thank you for your assistance and patience. That ASUS was the last time I went deep into PC. & found I wasn't ready to commit that much to internals. (except for them old war games! LOL)
This PC is the wife's, and so the whip is coming down...

BBL
ThA D


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Related Solutions

#4
April 26, 2012 at 11:13:19
Do you remember if the four beeps were all the same length? I know they've stopped now but if we can translate them it might still give a clue. At the moment it looks about certain it is hardware but beyond that it could be any number of possibilities.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#5
April 26, 2012 at 15:01:57
FOUR LONG BEEPS.

I installed a pair of known-to-be-good 533 DDR2s 512, (1 gig total) and still nothing.

I was informed that with Intel 945G, to try removing the battery for one hour after removing all cables, that would meen having to restore the bios, or at least the parameters, BUT, nada.

One service person I spoke with said it is possible that the 2 GIG stick in a 1 GIG slot may have caused a problem in the northbridge which controls the RAM on that Motherboard, which would leave me ass out in a cold dry wind. He bordered on vauge, wanting me to bring it in for tests, (at cost of course) but the troubleshooting is FREE if they do the repairs. Meanwhile some kid works the sales pitch once you arrive. BEEN there DONE that LOL!

I am praying there is a way to reset RAM functionality/PC functionality, but the prospects are looking grim, and it might end up being an expensive fix, (DOH!) for an XP that is dinosaur but has the wife's PHOTOS and all the stuff near and dear.

If there is a magician in the house, I would find SOME way to riciprocate.


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#6
April 26, 2012 at 15:33:49
Only thing I could find about 4 long beeps was a reference to "system timer", although I wasn't "totally" convinced that the info applied to your FX400XL.

Whatever, it does seem likely there was an issue with the new RAM that zapped something on the mobo - not at all nice.

Maybe you can put the HD into another computer to get your "near and dear" stuff off, then onto a flash drive. Another option is to pop the HD into an external USB enclosure.

I hope that magician comes along because I'm out of any better ideas.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#7
April 26, 2012 at 19:11:09
At least you tried! There is so much PC variation with respect to the components that make up a computer that it is becoming similar to automotive repair. What I mean is: You have to be "INTEL" or "ASUS" to REALLY know those products. Just like you have to be "Toyota" or "FORD" to service those vehicles more easily than the average mechanic. Each company like Intel has tens, if not HUNDREDS of motherboards, many with unique differences in any one or more of the sub-systems they control. Multiply that against the number of proprietary motherboard manufacturers and little issues like mine become a can of worms in a real hurry. Knowledge and common sense will find a problem faster than an amature, but one who plays doctor with one particular product will know that product better than ANYONE. Hell, I would like to have had enough sense than to shove two GIGS of RAM into a slot built to take ONE GIG. Try to play with toys that you don't understand, can't be suprised if ya get SPANKED!

I salute your effort, I respect your knowledge, I will walk a tad bit WISER next time I think I know more than I do! I WILL keep my eye on this site for some FX400XL savant who might take pity, but yeah, I will either snag another MB or have the HD content pissed into a flash-drive, and purchase the wife a nice up-to-date notebook like what I am on now. Reckon had I slowed my ass down and thought about it, I wouldn't be banging out cries for help with the two fingers I CAN type with LOL!

If I can help you with any construction tips, racing tips, or 2&4 stroke engine secrets (diesel or gas) get my attention by responding to this thread. I'll see it, and like a moth to a flame...

THANK-YOU
NOW! (finally) try Sailor Jerry RUM with coke or a favorite mixer and discover some GOOD FRICKIN' RUM! Smoother than a baby's butt, and fine like that girl you WANT!
Tha D is OUT!!!


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#8
April 26, 2012 at 20:43:57
Funny you mentioned two strokes. I owned a Wartburg "Knight" for about 9 years. If you think that's some sort of animal you are not far out, but it was "supposed to be" a car. You always had to be game to knock up a few pistons from drain pipes on the highway etc etc.

Thx for the kind thoughts and good luck with your problem child.


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#9
April 26, 2012 at 22:07:34
OOH! a 60's WART! Warts are actually still driven in some rallys, tho they are another car absorbed (osmosis?) by Volkswagon. BMW made their first respectable sportscar combined with Wartburg. late 20s I believe. Yeah I have seen the Knight. A two stroke that could have been tweeked into stardom. Pound for pound a two stroke is the quickest strongest powerplant, downside being it's desire to be finicky when fuel mixtures are off, or some little thing isn't quite 100% in a carburetted setup. That and it doesn't scavenge, plus they don't take to being muffled AT ALL! (think motocross, chainsaw, leaf blower) COMPUTER controls could (and do in racing bikes) squeeze the best out of that mechanical brute, but tree-huggers are convincing the world that 2 strokes are just smog/noise and little else. California won't even permit the sale of any new two stroke equipment without red tape and permits.
Damn! If you still can get your hands on the WART get it back! crappy as it might have been, they are still a collector car!

Going to put my motherboard into a two stroke chipper tommorrow! (well next week probably) `,)


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#10
April 27, 2012 at 05:10:39
The old Warthog was not the most reliable beast I ever had but it was certainly the car I had most fun with. Everything was arm about face, radiator at the back of the engine compartment, doors locking by pulling the knobs upwards, etc. With three sets of points and coils it was quite a game to tweak up but it worked. Blind men used to wave me down, not being quite sure from the sound what it was that was coming along.

The German translations in the handbook were fun too. Some I recall:

References to "when spraying the engine with oil"

During run-in "play somewhat with the accelerator pedal"

Mention of "the assistant driver"

Never did understand the first one and there were many other funny ones.

I used to roar away from traffic lights ahead of quite posh cars (without even trying), yet on the motorway (UK) I could be down to second on a hill unless I took a good run at it. Just the same, for a full 6 foot estate and a 996cc engine what could one expect. Great for loading goods, no lip, so you could poke things like washing machines in the back of it quite easily.

The first time you took out out on a main road after stogging around town for a few weeks, all hell broke loose. It then burnt off all the oil in the manifold and hot end of the exhaust pipe - nobody could see a thing through the blue fog (definitely kept tailgaiters away). After that you could have three weeks driving without seeing hardly a whiff.

Happy days - those when the average guy, preferrably with an engineering bent, could maintain the thing. That assumes you could actually get the parts - got out a lot trying to find spares LOL. Nowadays you need a computer to adjust the seats.


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#11
April 27, 2012 at 07:26:11
✔ Best Answer
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.

Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
http://www.badcaps.net/

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, fried Athlon cpus, etc.:
http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Jo...
......

If you find no bad capacitors....

Your mboard SHOULD work fine with the ram that was installed in it when the mboard worked fine previously.

Did you REMOVE the AC power to the computer at ALL times when you were fiddling with the ram or any connections inside the case ?
If you didn't do that at ALL times, you may have damaged something, and that includes the power supply. .

Did you unplug anything from the mboard and forget to plug it back in ?
Most mboards need two power connectors to be plugged into them.
a 20 or 24 "pin" one, and a 4 or 8 "pin" one.

Unplug the case/power supply, or switch off the AC power to it otherwise.
Power off your monitor.
Check all the connections of the wiring to make sure they are all the way onto their pins and into their sockets, especially the main connector from the power supply. The wires close to the mboard going into the main power connector/socket should be more or less perpendicular to the mboard surface rather than at an angle.
Make sure the ram and all cards in slots are all the way down in their slots.

Has there been a PCI-E X16 video card installed in your mboard's PCI-E X16 slot that it didn't orginally have ?

If yes,

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed.

If that capacity is inadequate, the power supply will be damaged and will fail eventually.

In any case, failing power supplies are common, and it's possible you damaged it.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.

If you can borrow a power supply from another working computer, try connecting that.

If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent quality standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
.............

"It is a Gateway FX400XL "

Gateway FX400XL Desktop Computer (home support page)
http://support.gateway.com/s/pc/FX4...

Components -

Power Supplies

WMEATX-400GW - 400-Watt Power Supply
WMEHP-3057FW - PS 300 W 24-Pin Non-PFC HIPRO
WMEHP-E4008FWR - 400 Watt Power Supply
WMEHP-P3087F3 - HIPRO 300-Watt Power Supply
WMENPS-300BB - Delta 300-Watt Power Supply


Intel (Big Lake) 945G Motherboard
http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHER...

mboard specs
http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHER...

Excerpts:

Chipset Intel 945G chipset with ICH7R

Memory
•Four 240-pin DDR2 SDRAM Dual Inline Memory Module (DIMM) sockets
•DDR2 667 or DDR2 533 MHz DIMMs
•Expandable up to 4 GB total memory

Add-in Card Slots
•One ×16 PCI Express
•One ×1 PCI Express
•Three PCI

On the Intel (Big Lake) 945G Motherboard
web page...

Downloads :
http://support.gateway.com/support/...

Any bios update - How to install
http://support.gateway.com/support/...

(That particular one is for the newest bios update but I looked at many of them and they all have the following line in them.)

Excerpt:

"In the Intel(r) Express BIOS Update Setup dialog box,"

Your mboard is probably an OEM only model (made only for brand name system builders) that was made by Intel, and it's bios is probably an Intel bios version that was slightly modified for or by Gateway..

Desktop Boards
BIOS beep codes
http://www.intel.com/support/mother...

Beep codes for legacy desktop boards

Beep state Meaning

4 Timer not operational

This applies to:

Includes DG945 series

You MAY get a false error beep pattern if your power supply is not working properly.




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#12
April 27, 2012 at 10:33:45
Tubes and wires! wow! O.K.
The beep codes vs 4 = timer, the solution for that was to completely unplug remove battery for one hour and re-install battery. No change (though should the PC come back, may have to re-install the bios)

Got beeps, but no smoke, no smell. (I have had a number of electronic situations that resulted in the dreaded OZONE smell and the wispy tendrils of blue smoke, or the delightful miniture FIRECRACKER noise) DID look but will check again.
Will also check the power supply with a VOM

DID and DO remove AC power. I have no desire to tempt fate, and electronics have built in TAZERS, when there is juice.
I also press ON/OFF to bleed out any stored charges. All cables come off.

No VID card added or changed. Original graphics/vid card is an NVIDIA GeFORCE 6800 ultra, 256MB DDR3, dual DVI and TV out. (Made BF2 fighter jet flights insanely fun back in the day LOL! DAMN I was good!)

Actually only change was that 2 GIG stick, and hearing the dreaded beeps that followed.

SO! POWER SUPPLY! We will check it, I can get my mitts on a bigger one later today as well!

ALL CONNECTIONS! Will check each connector to see if any/all are connecTING!

Possible CAP/Toasty bits problem. Will go ahead and examine the CAPS for bulging, and any other stained, off color, or odd looking electronica.

Darn. Was going to go race KARTS today, but the wife's PC may not let me... SIGH! Maybe it's a sign. lol!

Tubesandwires, I will carry out the mission and report back. Adding you to a growing list of those re-educating me back into common-sense electronic investigation. Guess I should have done some of this already, tho I have checked a number of connectors, figured I might have tugged one unknowingly. The FX400XL has some of the WORST cable routing I have EVER seen in my entire LIFE!!!

Thank you for you time and knowledge.
ThA D is out with a PC again.


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#13
April 27, 2012 at 11:58:56
EUREKA!
Opened the power supply up and well... can I post pics here? LOL Looks like one of the larger ceramic resistors has been toasting out over a period. Two of the caps were also quite bulged, tho no leaks.
I do remember the wife saying that some times the PC wouldn't start up, indications? I suppose there was our clue. Then I throw a fat stick of memory in, PC replies with some BEEPS. So the four beep code for an Intel big lake 945G might also be the PC saying "Not without more power dumbass..." *KIDDING*

Well, I'll get a big hunk of power supply at FRY'S and we will delight in putting the whole thing back together. I went ahead and dusted the PCBs with a can of air and vacuum with a mini VAC attachment, hopefully I can go kart racing before 3:00 pm PST

Tubesandwires, and the rest of you who cared to reply, I owe you a debt of gratitude that I hope to repay in some way!

Will post again to let you know how we wind up!
I am off to FRY'S!!!


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#14
April 27, 2012 at 13:11:46
Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback and well done Tubesandwires.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#15
April 27, 2012 at 14:58:45
And now I write to you from a GATEWAY FX400XL running TWO GIGS of RAM and a 450w power supply, XP, yadda yadda...

The power supply, the only problem. I will have to write down the troubleshooting I have picked up here, some I should have known, some I truly value as GOLD! I probably would have tossed the PC, though I kinda like the XP, after harvesting the disk drives and cdrw's. The wife is happy, I am going racing.

If I can help anyone with construction tips or advice (U.S. Ca. for codes etc) Or if you are stuck with a 2/4 stroke, problems with diesel or gas engines, utilize this thread, and I'll reply, or find me & PM on facebook under DUB YAA

I will direct any others here should they have issues, Thank you again!


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#16
April 27, 2012 at 14:58:55
Thanks, Derek.

"The beep codes vs 4 = timer, the solution for that was to completely unplug remove battery for one hour and re-install battery. No change (though should the PC come back, may have to re-install the bios)"

If the timer error beeps were actually because of something that had failed on the mboard, that would not go away no matter what you did.

Removing the Cmos battery only needs to be done for, say, 15 seconds, then you install it again.

You should have normal video video while booting when there's nothing else wrong and ram that is compatible with the mboard is installed even when the Cmos battery is dead or is not installed.

Installing the wrong size of the right type of ram , itself , can't cause your problem (any way I know of) with your original ram, unless it's installed backwards in the ram slot, in which case both the ram module and the circuits of the slot it was installed in are both fried instantly when you boot the computer, you smell a burnt plasticy smell, and you may see a puff of smoke, and even in that case, if there is any undamaged ram slot left, that can usually be recovered from by cleaning up the black carbon and melted plastic that bridges contacts in the ram slot, then install a good compatible module in an undamaged ram slot.

"DID and DO remove AC power."

Very good. Some people didn't do that.

"No VID card added or changed. Original graphics/vid card is an NVIDIA GeFORCE 6800 ultra,..."

The Geforce 6800 video chipset will probably work fine with a system that has a 250 watt capacity power supply or higher.

"EUREKA!
Opened the power supply up and well...
Looks like one of the larger ceramic resistors has been toasting out over a period. Two of the caps were also quite bulged, tho no leaks. "

Hooray !

The cause of power supplies malfunctioning and eventually failing is often one or more failing or failed electrolytic capacitors, especially when it's an el-cheapo model, which is most often what brand name system builders use. It's more likely that ther failing damaged the ceramic resistor rather than the other way around.
Another common cause of a PS failing is it's fan no longer spins, and it has overheated and damaged itself.
The capacitors should not be bulged on the top at all. Since the power supply still managed to boot the computer most of the time until recently, they may have not reached the stage where they leak, or they may have been emitting vapour.

I have one Sparkle power supply that was still working but you could hear a faint ssssssssss sound like a kettle makes when it's heating slowly and it's otherwise quiet in the room, when the computer was not running but it still had live AC power to it. I opened it up and found several capacitors were bulged and venting vaporized liquid.

"I do remember the wife saying that some times the PC wouldn't start up, indications? I suppose there was our clue. "

Yes, it was a clue. Failing power supplies often intermittently have problems before the computer fails to boot all the time.
Failing or failed capacitors on the mboard can cause similar symptoms.

"I went ahead and dusted the CBS with a can of air and vacuum with a mini VAX attachment,"

DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner to do that inside the case - they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity when running, and anything connected to them can discharge that to your components - use canned air, or an air nozzle if you have access to an air compressor, or an artist's brush that can be used in small spaces, etc.
.....

Unfortunately, a failing power supply can damage something else, often just the mboard, while failing..The more el-cheapo the PS is, the more likely something else will be damaged.

If you have another working desktop computer, try the PS from that first with your problem computer before you buy one.

If the mboard still won't boot with the original ram, it's probably the mboard itself that has been damaged by the failing PS, and you may want to spend your money on another computer instead.

Don't buy an el-cheapo (in quality) PS.
See response 3 in this:
http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...

I no longer recommend Cooler Master, AOpen, or Sparkle power supplies.
I'm now downgrading Thermaltake to middle of the road.
Antec has two lines of PSs - the better line has a longer warranty for the same or similar capacity - the other line is more towards middle of the road.
AMD has a list of Certified (tested and found to be good quality) PSs:
http://support.amd.com/us/certified... \


Thanks for the thank you and the kind words to myself and to those who answered otherwise.

My reward is the satisfaction of having actually helped you to solve your problem(s).


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#17
April 27, 2012 at 20:35:06
^_^ `,) ;D

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#18
April 28, 2012 at 07:26:07
I see your response 15 was posted 10 seconds before I finished and posted response 16.

We're glad to hear you actually did solve your problem and your wife is happy about that !

Did you install 4 512 mb modules, or exchange your 2 gb module for 2 1 gb modules ?

Since you now have a 450 watt PS, you can upgrade your video card to one that a 450 watt PS on the system (or less) is recommended for


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#19
April 28, 2012 at 10:28:08
4 512s a small but noticable improvement.

Got a nice HP elitebook that is actually faster and games nicer, (when I get time lol) runs WIN7 and my favorite part is now I get my coffee before I turn it on, take a sip, and I am ready to roll.

Had a senior moment, forgot to bring the GATEWAY clock, & date back to the present, started wondering why all the security certificates were bad! Checked, no, they are up-to-date and current...Hmmm. HEY! why does the clock read... DOH!

Got to race yesterday TOO! NOW I have a clutch on a CBR1100XX to bleed, and after, see how she rides! (I wiegh 125 soaking wet, so bikes that big, I am like a horsefly on a race horse) Saturday SPEEDZONES here I come!

Always checking the PC so if you like to chat PM me on FB search Dub Yaa. And AGAIN thank you! I was at Hell's kitchen about to get served.

Tha D is OUT!


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#20
April 28, 2012 at 11:19:45
Sounds good.

If you have anything connected to the parallel port. make sure the printer port mode is set to EPP, ECP, or EPP / ECP mode in the bios, otherwise Windows probably won't detect it properly. Usually EPP mode works fine. ECP mode requires that there is a spare dma channel available - it may not be - and there's very little if any difference using that regarding max data transfer rates vs EPP mode.

Also, you may want to change the Boot Order or similar settings in the bios from their default settings.

E.g. if that's set to
floppy drive
CD drive
hard drive

....then you don't need to change settings to boot the computer from a bootable floppy, or a bootable CD or DVD.
Some bioses will not recognize a bootable floppy disk while booting if floppy drive or similar is not listed before CD drive or similar.


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