burning software crashing my pc

Gigabyte mobo / GA-7VAXP
December 4, 2008 at 05:11:44
Specs: XP home Edition 2002 SP2, 1GB
Hi people,
My pc has worked fine for years but recently it started to crash whenever I was trying to use Nero to burn CDs/DVDs.
I thought it was the DVD drive so I bought a new one and guess what? Still the same. I have uninstalled Nero 6 and installed it again. No change, installed Nero 7, the same.
Now I installed CDburnerXP and all still the same. Sometimes I manage to actually burn 1 disc but then if I try to do a second one, baam.... the same happens. All crashes and I can not even end the Task on the Windows Task Manager/Applicactions tab. So it's a new restart because otherwise nothing happens.
Could someone please have any idea, any tips, any advice?
Thanks a lot people and a good day to all of you :)

See More: burning software crashing my pc

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December 4, 2008 at 05:44:59
I assume you have cleaned the system of spam, spyware, malware, etc.?

Have you installed any new software or hardware lately?

Changed brand of disks?

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December 4, 2008 at 06:26:29
try to do system restore

if it does not work, clean the virus

if it does not work format i know thats not the way for your problem, but its an optio when you do not have other options available.

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December 4, 2008 at 11:30:20
Two causes come to mind.

The first is much more likely...

If the burning worked fine before, your power supply is failing or has become defective over time.

Burning software, especially when burning a DVD, places a significant extra load on your system that exceeds that of what most other programs put on it. If your power supply is inadequate, or if it can no longer handle that extra load, your burning software program will quit or produce error messages part way through burning, and/or the computer will black screen and reboot while burning, and/or if it is bad enough, the computer may black screen and reboot when you merely access the drive with the burning software.

The last two things happened to my brother. The subject burner drive worked fine on another computer. The drive worked fine when another used power supply was connected to his system. He used the used PS temporarily, and RMAed the power supply, which was still under warranty, then installed the replacement, and he has had no burning problems since.

I know from experince your system will work fine with a decent PS with a 250 watt or greater capacity, unless you have an AGP video card in a slot with a quite recent chipset that requires an additional power conection from the power supply and that draws a lot more power (see the specs - often in the minimum system requirements - for the card on the manufacturer's web site - it will list a minimum PS capacity if it draws more than the average amount of current).

I have been told by pros at a place that builds custom systems all the time you don't ever need more than 350 watts PS capacity if your mboard has no PCI-E slots, unless the computer is a heavily loaded server.
No AGP card with whatever chipset I've looked up requires more than a minimum 350 watt PS capacity.

If the original PS had less capacity, it may work fine for a long while until the overloading it has experienced damages it.

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
See response 4 in this:

Note - in my brother's case the power supply appeared to be okay even after checking those things - only trying another power supply confirmed it was the cause - I suspect it was probably it's control chip that had malfunctioned.

The other......

- Gigabyte mboards are more likely than some other brands to develop the bad capacitor problem. I had a GA-7ZMMH that had this happen to. Intially it would black screen and reboot for no apparent reason - a short time after that it would not boot at all.

Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
- links on left to economical available premade or custom capacitor kits, and/or you can ship the mboard to him and he will replace the capacitors for a flat $45 fee (including the capacitors) plus $15 shipping, and up (North America only).

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:

You CAN replace the capacitors yourself if you're handy and very careful, or have him replace them for you, but most people just get another used or new mboard that can use the same cpu and ram, or a newer system, or a new mboard/cpu/ram for the existing system.

If you want a new reliable mboard that can use your present cpu and possibly your present ram (some models use SDram; some use DDR) and will probably never have this problem, look at the discounted old stock ones here:
That's a cheap fix if you live in the US. If you're in Canada the ordering is set up such that they can ship to you, but you will be whacked with extra UPS charges and about a week delay after the the shipment crosses the border.
You can order a spare bios chip already flashed with the last bios update available for only $5 while ordering.

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December 4, 2008 at 14:02:38

You have repeatedly stated 350W PSU is more than enough for any PC. That may have been true some time in the past.

You fail to mention that not all PSUs are created equal. Below I am posting links to 4 PSUs. Two are 350W two are larger. The point of the exercise is to show the differences between similarly rated PSUs. The +12V rail is the most important.

+12V = 26A

+12V = 16A

+12V = 28A

+12V = 41A

As you can see for yourself there is a big difference in the available +12V Amp rating.

Now to address the needs. The most power hungry Graphics card I could find uses over 19A by itself. Typical mainstream cards may draw 10A @12V.

Then you need to take into account the drives, processor, fans, etc.

I could have found units with even less 12V amp ratings.

In conclusion, the rated wattage of the PSU is menaingless. Cheap units fudge the numbers to start and provide large 3.3V & 5V amperages. These are much higher than needed whereas the +12V is lacking.

Generally speaking, brand name units will yield higher usable Amps.

All that you need do is look at the input ratings and do the math to see many out and out lie. For the uninitiated Watts divided by Voltage + Amps.

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December 4, 2008 at 18:28:17
Wao guys :)
Thanks for the replies. All the power supply issues makes sense. I also have a usb hub with 3 external hdd drives connected after the 2 internal ones and recentle I have also started to have problems with it at boot time. I have found that now the system wont boot if I have the usb hub connected. I do full virus checks all the time so I am convinced the problem is not from there although i can not be absolutely sure. On the other hand if i use programs like ConvertXtoDVD or 1 click dvd copy, they do work without a problem. I will in fact check that out tomorrow just so i am absolutely sure that that is still the case.
Thanks a for your replies, it's great to learn with people like you. I will confirm this last point but i am pretty sure of it.

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December 5, 2008 at 21:34:28

"You have repeatedly stated 350W PSU is more than enough for any PC."

Sort of ....what I have repeatedly said is:

"I have been told by pros at a place that builds custom systems all the time you don't ever need more than 350 watts PS capacity if your mboard has no PCI-E slots, unless the computer is a heavily loaded server."

Note the mention of PCI-E slots.

Also, I have frequently stated a "decent PS" - of course, an el-cheapo PS may not actually be able to supply what the specs state (they are a lie), or it may have inferior amperage ratings.

Your points are perfectly valid, but the max current a video slot can handle went up a lot for mboards with PCI-E X 16 slots, and probably up some more for PCI-E X 16 2.0 slots.
If the subject mboard is the one at the top of the page, he has a Socket A mboard with an AGP slot, and that has a lot lower max current limit.

If there is an AGP version and a PCI-E version of a card with the same chipset, all the AGP versions I have looked up require a min. 350 watt PS, max, despite the fact the PCI-E version may require more, and that max only applies to fairly recent chipsets.
I have many AGP cards with older chipsets (that don't need an extra power connection to the card) that run fine on a Socket A system with a 250 watt PS, and an AIW 9800 Pro (requires a floppy power connection as well ) that runs fine with a 300 watt PS.

I'm sticking by what I said, unless you can find me an AGP card that has specs that state it requires more than a minimum 350 watt PS.


"I also have a usb hub with 3 external hdd drives connected ..."
"....I have also started to have problems with it at boot time."

You can have problems with USB if your PS is no longer putting out enough current, or if what is supposed to be 5v is too low or too high, but using a USB hub can often cause problems too.

Each and every USB port that is directly connected to your mboard is rated to supply up to and inc. 500ma (1/2 amp). That includes the physical USB ports built into the I/O area where most of the ports are at edge of the mboard you can see, and the ports available by connecting a wiring adapter to a USB header on the mboard - there are usually two USB ports per header.

Every port in a USB Controller card in a slot can supply up to and inc. 500ma too.

No USB connected device is allowed to draw more current than that, and most USB devices draw a lot less - e.g. a USB mouse may draw only 15ma; a printer or scanner or multifunction device often draws nearer the maximum.

However, a hard drive in an external case is a special situation and needs more than 500ma - a single USB connection alone cannot supply enough current. The external case with the hard drive in it must either
- have an external AC to DC power adapter connected to it, as well as the USB connection (the usual case for desktop sized - 3.5" - drives),
- or - the external case must have TWO cables going to TWO USB connections at the computer end, one of which only needs to have two wires for 5v power connected, or the second cable with the two wires can be connected to an ac or 12v dc to 5v dc adapter meant to supply power of up to 500ma for a USB device (the usual case for laptop - 2.5" - drive).

When you connect to one of the USB ports in a USB hub, that is the type that has two or more USB ports connected to one USB port that is directly connected to the mboard, all the ports in the hub have to share the 500ma available from the one port, unless the hub is a "powered" hub that has an external power adapter connected to it.
There are lots of USB devices that will NOT work properly connected to such a hub, even if the hub is a "powered" one that has it's own 5v DC power supply with enough capacity to supply 500ma to every port in the hub even when they are all being used. The same applies to USB HUB cards (USB Controller cards have multiple ports but are different), as far as I have seen, but they are not common anymore, except possibly for laptops.

If you are using that type of hub merely because you don't want to have to plug the external drives into the ports on the back of the computer, use a USB 2.0 extension cable (male to female) instead to the ports on the back.
If you don't have enough USB ports on the back, get a USB wiring adapter that has a plate that makes available ports in an external slot space (as little as $10 or less for 2 ports; $15 or less for four) , that can be connected to the USB headers on your mboard.
(The wiring of the female wiring connectors that connect to the headers must be compatible with the wiring of the pinouts of the header - that varies - see your mboard manual - one piece two row Gigabyte compatible female wiring connectors / the Gigabyte mboard headers often have an oddball wiring and pinhole/pin layout). If you don't have enough USB headers, get a USB 2.0 controller card (as little as $30 or less).

Also - common problems you may have with USB connected devices, and, less common, you may need to cure an IRQ sharing problem on your system...
See response 3 in this:

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December 6, 2008 at 05:01:05
Tubes, who is building rigs using 9800 AGP cards these days? The average add-in card these days is drawing 10A. The most powerful, closer to twenty. What difference does it make how the power gets to the card? Still comes from the PSU.

Burners pull less than 2A when burning.

You do a disservice to the casual reader here by giving them a false impression that 350W is enough for a modern build. Especially when not mentioning there is a big difference between brands.

You give a lot of good advice here but telling folks 350W is all they need isn't good advice, in most cases. Even is they start out using integrated graphics eventually hardware is added.

Well, I am done with my rant.

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December 6, 2008 at 08:07:10
Perhaps I'm adding 2 plus 2 to equal 5 in some of my logic when it isn't justified, if so it wouldn't be the first time, but despite that, if you point me to an AGP card with a video chipset that requires more than a minimum 350 watt power supply in it's specs for the AGP version, preferably from more than one source, I'll stop suggesting one doesn't need more than a decent 350 watt PS if their mboard does not have PCI-E slots, unless it's a heavily loaded server.

"Burners pull less than 2A when burning."

Of course the drive itself does, but what I said was..
"Burning software, especially when burning a DVD, places a significant extra load on your system that exceeds that of what most other programs put on it."

"Tubes, who is building rigs using 9800 AGP cards these days?"

Not everyone who posts here can afford to build a new system, or upgrade their video to a card with a recent video chipset, and many have older mboards, including myself. The only reason I have some experience with building newer systems is I have been building them for a few others who have limited financial resources - some pay me in small payments - my labour is free to them, unless they insist on paying me a token amount.
You can still buy new cards with some older video chipsets that first came out as long ago as 2000 or so - e.g. ATI 128bit Rage Pro, Radeon 7000, AGP or PCI Radeon 9250, etc. For mboards with only 2X (or 1X) AGP slots, the AGP cards with those chipsets support that and are still out there.

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December 6, 2008 at 10:11:51
Maybe it would be better to specify what Amperage is needed on the +12V rail.

I didn't spend much time hunting for what you asked for. I found this right away.

Sapphire release the Radeon HD3850 for AGP! : It's been on the cards for a while ... the slot and if it wants all the other 75 thats 150 watts = 12.5 amps. ...
www.tomshardware.com/forum/247614-33-sapphire-release-radeon-hd3850 - 392k

That's 12.5A on the 12V rail without counting anything else. Easy to see how a PSU like this one would run shy of power.


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December 6, 2008 at 13:21:12
So far, I am finding two different minumum PS capacities stated for the 3850 AGP version - 450, and 300 watts.
Are some card makers mistakenly specifying the crrent the card draws and the capacity for the PCI-E version for the AGP version??


"450Watt or greater power supply with 30Amps on 12 volt with 2x4 power connector recommanded."

PowerColor HD 3850 AGP - doesn't say

HIS HD 3850 AGP - Doesn't say

However ATI says, for the PCI-E 3800 series:
"450 Watt or greater power supply with 75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express® power connector recommended (550 Watt and two 6-pin connectors for dual ATI CrossFireX™)"

Is Sapphire specifying the minimum PS for the PCI-E version, NOT the AGP version?

"You should have a name brand power supply with preferably greater than 450 watts with at least 30 amps on the 12 volt rail.Also, there are issues between the 3850 and certain Via chipset motherboards "

issues between the 3850 and certain Via chipset motherboards??


User reviews - may be wrong
Doesn't work with VIA chipset
Outstanding card
- Via has issues with some of these cards, specially the Powercolor version

K8T Master2-FAR7 MS-9617 Sapphire AGP 3850 512MB no signal to monitor

ATI Lists:
Partners - Asus, Club, Diamond, Force30, Gigabyte, MSI, PowerColor, Sapphire, VisionTek

Which have AGP versions?

A quick search using: (brand name) 3850 AGP -
Asus - no?
450 watts or greater
Diamond - no?
Force 30 - only hits are on Korean language sites
Gigabyte - no?
HIS, yes, no PS capacity info found
MSI - no?
PowerColor - yes, no PS capacity info found
Sapphire - yes - 450 watt PS

VisionTek - yes

3850 AGP
"300W or greater power supply recommended "

3850 PCI-E 512mb
"450 Watt or greater power supply with 75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express® power connector recommended (550 Watt for ATI CrossFireX™ with two 6-pin connectors)"

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December 6, 2008 at 13:26:35
tubes, do you just like to argue or what?

The key here is NOT the rated wattage or the PSU. "450Watt or greater power supply with 30Amps on 12 volt with 2x4 power connector recommanded."

The key in that quote is the 12V Amps. 30A is probably more than needed but even the best 350W PSU I linked to above only has 26A on the 12V rail.

The 12V rail is what you need to be concerned about, not the total wattage. Some cheapies lie or pump up the 3.3V & 5V rails to make the numbers look good.

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December 6, 2008 at 20:09:59
If all the info I had found confirmed a 3850 AGP version needed a minimum 450 watt PS, I would have said you're right, I stand corrected, but I find it odd I found one source said it only needs a minimum 300 watt PS, several sources have no info about that, and that the min. PS capacity for the AGP version was the same as for the PCI-E version.

The minimum rec. PS capacity is directly related to the max current the card requires. If one is incorrectly stated higher than it should be, then it's likely so is the other for the same card maker. The other recent chipsets I've looked up the specs that have both a PCI-E and AGP version have both of those lower for the AGP version.

I've already said.......
"Also, I have frequently stated a "decent PS" - of course, an el-cheapo PS may not actually be able to supply what the specs state (they are a lie), or it may have inferior amperage ratings."
"Your points are perfectly valid...."

I started stating that about not needing more than a 350 watt PS when ones with more capacity cost a fair bit more, more posts were about older mboards/systems, and I asked the Pros at a local place when the recent video chipsets that DO draw a lot more current in their AGP version did not yet exist. Especially since decent power supplies now have less of a price difference between the capacities than they used to, that's not as relevant now. I think from now on I will just suggest the person makes sure the power supply meets or exceeds the minimum PS requirements of a system with a recent graphics card they are using, or think they might use in future.
However, if they indicate or I find they have an older video chipset, and they don't intend on changing it, I'm still going to suggest they don't need more than 350 watts.

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December 6, 2008 at 20:59:42
Tubes, go back and look at the first two links I posted in #4. Both are 350W PSUs. One has 16A on the 12V rail and one has 26A on the 12V rail.

Tell me, are these equal?
Don't recommend a wattage at all.
Recommend that they do the math.

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January 24, 2009 at 06:44:20
How I fixed the same problem.

After weeks of reading endless threads and trying everything to address this on my 4-year-old XP Home Pentium 4, I finally found the answer (for me, at least). BURN SLOWER.

I think it comes down to newer burners just being too much for older systems. So now I set my 22x burner to 8x, and don't have any crashes. Okay, it takes a little longer. So go make a cup of tea or stretch your legs or something. You'll live longer, anyway.

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January 24, 2009 at 08:38:10

If there is nothing wrong with your system you should not be having any problems burning on a system that is only 4 years old.

If you have checked out all the things mentioned in this subject (thread) and none seem to apply to your case, there are some more things that haven't been mentioned here.

Do not install more than one burning program at a time that has a module or modules that are loaded all the time.
E.g. Nero does that.
If you do, they are likely to interfere with one another.

Older versions of burning software are known to have problems when or after IE 7 has been installed. There is no cure, other than un-installing IE 7, or keeping IE 7 and using a newer burning program version. e.g. Roxio EMC 7.5 (or 8?) or less cannot work properly; Roxio EMC 8 (or 9?) or above works fine (I know 9 and 10 work fine, and 7.5 and 7 do not; I'm not sure about 8). I don't know how that applies to Nero versions, etc., but apparently it applies to a lot of older burning software versions.

Many also report problems with older burning software versions after Windows Media Player 11 has been installed.

Roxio EMC 10 will generate lots of error messages when you try to install it if you have certain ATI chipset video capture related drivers installed - those are installed if the video card has video in capabilty, or if it's an AIW video card with a built in TV tuner, or the same may apply to TV tuner cards with ATI chipsets. You have to un-install one listing for the ATI software in Add/Remove Programs, then Roxio 10 will install, but even so I'm not 100% sure all the modules of Roxio EMC 10 work properly (the burning software does). Apparently Roxio has known about that problem for years yet has not fixed their problem - you may have the same problem with older or newer versions of EMC or other Roxio software.

If the optical drive is IDE.....

If you are using an IDE combo DVD burner drive (burns and reads both CDs and DVDs) that is capable of burning 16X or greater DVD -R or DVD +R media, it is capable of UDMA66 max data burst speeds and it MUST be connected to an 80 wire data cable in order to work properly.
If it is connected to a 40 wire data cable, or if you have it connected to an 80 wire cable but some of it's connections aren't working properly (the 40 extra wires are all or mostly extra ground wires to ensure you don't get data transfer errors at faster data speeds), then the drive will generate data errors when run at the faster burn speeds, but it may not when run at lower burn speeds.

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.

If your optical drive is SATA....

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

If you have reloaded Windows from scratch and have NOT loaded the main chipset drivers, it is very common for Windows to not have the proper information about the mboard's drive controllers, and in that case, burner optical drives, if they are detected as burner drives at all, may not be able to run at the max speeds they are capable of because Windows is running them in a lesser mode.

Whenever you load Windows from a regular Windows CD (or DVD) from scratch, after Setup is finished you must load the drivers for the mboard, particularly the main chipset drivers, in order for Windows to have the proper drivers for and information about your mboard hardware, including it's AGP or PCI-E, ACPI, and hard drive controller support. If you have a generic system and have the CD that came with the mboard, all the necessary drivers are on it. If you load drivers from the web, brand name system builders and mboard makers often DO NOT have the main chipset drivers listed in the downloads for your model - in that case you must go to the maker of the main chipset's web site, get the drivers, and load them.

If your burner drive is IDE
See this:

If the connection your optical drive is on is in PIO mode, try setting it to DMA if available, save settings, go back in, see if it has changed to a higher mode. e.g. DVD combo burner optical drives should be in Ultra DMA mode 4, if they are capable of 16X or greater DVD + or DVD -

If the drive won't go out of PIO mode, you need to remove some lines from the Registry, but if you haven't cured what caused the data errors (e.g. a defective data cable), Windows will immediately or in a short time insert the lines again and it will be in PIO mode again.

NOTE that if your mboard has an Intel main chipset, you may NOT see the Advanced Settings tab there in the properties for the IDE controllers. If you don't, your Intel chipset may require you install the IAA - Intel Application Accelerator. If that has been loaded, there is a Intel Application Accelerator entry in your Programs list in the Start menu, and the modes the drives are running in are shown in that.
If you don't see the Advanced Settings tab there in the properties for the IDE controllers, and you don't see the Intel Application Accelerator entry in your Programs, go to the Intel website and look up the downloads for your particular main chipset, and download and install the IAA if it is listed - your drives will not be able to run at their max speeds until that has been installed.

Look in Device Manager. If there are yellow ? marks beside any optical drive's model number, you need to remove some upperfilter and lowerfilter lines from the registry.

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January 24, 2009 at 10:12:18
Tubesandwires. All of that already checked out and attended to. Life's way too short for spending hours tracking down a fault that can be worked around just by burning a little slower. That's all I'm saying for others who have this problem and who just need to burn an occasional disc without driving themselves nuts.

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January 25, 2009 at 07:25:53

"That's all I'm saying for others who have this problem and who just need to burn an occasional disc without driving themselves nuts."

Yes, that works, IF burning at a slower speed works, but it doesn't solve the problem. You don't solve problems by ignoring them.

One thing I forgot to mention is probably the most frequent reason you can no longer burn at faster speeds when you could before, when there's nothing else wrong, after the drive has been used for a long while.

The motor in an optical drive has cheap sleeve bearings - I've never seen or heard of an optical drive that has anything else for bearings. Eventually the sleeve bearings and/or their lubrication deteriorate to the point the bearings are producing too much friction. When that happens, at first, the drive can no longer spin the motor at it's max speeds properly. As more time goes by, it can no longer spin the disk at even 1X speed (the original audio CD speed) and at that point the mboard bios and Windows can no longer recognize a disk in the drive, or sometimes, the motor wont't even start to spin because of the friction or it seizes.
That's probably the most common reason an optical drive becomes unusable after it has been used a lot, and the reason that for a long time, since optical drives have been capable of more than 4X or 8X read speeds, no optical drive has had more than a one year warranty.

A tip - most people are not aware of this.

As well as your mboard bios spinning a disk in at least one optical drive, if not all of them, while booting if a disk is present, and Windows spinning at least one disk in an optical drive, if not all of them, when it first loads, if a disk is present in (a) drive(s) Windows 95 and up also spins the disks at seemingly random times while you are using Windows, even when you are not actively accessing the disk, sometimes at slower speeds and you may not hear it spinning, and often WITHOUT lighting up the led on the drive.
Because of that, you will be able to make use of the finite life of the motor bearings longer, and be able to use the optical drive longer, if you remove disks whenever you are not using them.

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