1. As above, confirm core temperatures in CPU, I use SpeedFan, but as pointed out, checking in BIOS may be best. If your temps were that high, the CPU fan would be screaming until the board would shut the system down. About the only way your CPU should climb very high without overclocking and stress teRead more

    As above, confirm core temperatures in CPU, I use SpeedFan, but as pointed out, checking in BIOS may be best. If your temps were that high, the CPU fan would be screaming until the board would shut the system down. About the only way your CPU should climb very high without overclocking and stress testing, would be if your CPU’s heat sink has come unmounted or they left off the thermal compound when attaching it. If you confirm that the temps are anything over 40 at idle or over 60 under load, check or better, remove and reset the heat sink with a quality thermal compound. See: http://www.arcticsilver.com/methods…
    As far as fans, you should have flow through your case rather than just many fans interfering with each other. You should have a front fan down low blowing into your case and a rear fan high in the back blowing out (exhaust) of your case to keep colder air flowing in, up, and out as warmer air.

    You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.

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  2. According to this page you have a Celeron 900 2200mhz http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/con...This page lists it is a Socket P:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...

    According to this page you have a Celeron 900 2200mhz

    http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/con…

    This page lists it is a Socket P:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o…

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  3. There is almost no way that it will run 3.2 but not 3.3.As indicated above, the FDD needs to be configured right in BIOS. I needs to be clean. And it needs to work.=====================================Helping others achieve escape felicityM2

    There is almost no way that it will run 3.2 but not 3.3.

    As indicated above, the FDD needs to be configured right in BIOS. I needs to be clean. And it needs to work.

    =====================================
    Helping others achieve escape felicity

    M2

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  4. The USB LG DVD drive must be connected to a USB port that can supply the whole 500ma USB spec max current. The same goes for USB connected external drive enclosures.If it's a desktop sized drive, the USB LG DVD drive's enclosure must be connected to an external power adapter.The same goes for USB coRead more

    The USB LG DVD drive must be connected to a USB port that can supply the whole 500ma USB spec max current.
    The same goes for USB connected external drive enclosures.

    If it’s a desktop sized drive, the USB LG DVD drive’s enclosure must be connected to an external power adapter.
    The same goes for USB connected external 3.5″ drive enclosures.

    If the cable you are using to connect the USB LG DVD drive to the USB port did not come with the drive, if it isn’t definately rated for USB 2.0 , it may not be good enough.

    More USB T-shooting info
    See Response 1:
    http://www.computing.net/answers/ha…
    ……..

    USB flash drives are not bootable unless you follow a procedure to add data to them to make them bootable. Copying the contents of a CD that is bootable to a flash drive will not make a USB flash drive bootable.

    The file that makes the Windows CD or DVD bootable is not visible in Windows, unless you use a third party program to reveal that file, and that file won’t make a flash drive bootable.

    If you copy a bootable Windows CD or DVD, you must use “Disk At Once” or similar in the burning program, otherwise the copy will not be bootable. Copying the contents of the bootable CD or DVD that you can see in the burning program will not make the copy bootable.

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  5. So you've got to return it, ruined or not, and you don't want your data on it.Did you try Rex's link above?A low level format ought to do it. What you've tried may just be a zero-fill utility. You might look for something called MAXLLF. It's an old dos based low level format tool from maxtor. If itRead more

    So you’ve got to return it, ruined or not, and you don’t want your data on it.

    Did you try Rex’s link above?

    A low level format ought to do it. What you’ve tried may just be a zero-fill utility. You might look for something called MAXLLF. It’s an old dos based low level format tool from maxtor. If it can recognize the drive it should work, although I have my doubts it will see it. If you do use it make sure you know which drive it’s formatting. You don’t want to LLF your hard drive.

    Other than that, a good static discharge on its contacts may be enough to ruin it. Or put it in a camera and try formatting it using the camera’s utility. Or just buy a new one that’s exactly the same, scratch it up a little like it’s been used and return that one.

    Oh, check my # 6 here:

    http://www.computing.net/answers/do…

    Reconfiguring it so the computer sees it as a regular drive may allow you to format it in the normal manner. I haven’t tried the utilities I lnked to there so can’t speak for them.

    When governments outlaw guns only outlaw governments will have guns

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  6. "Anyway ill try to pull out the cpu than place it back to se if this solves the problem."There's a 99.9% chance it will NOT !You DO NOT need to re-seat the cpu if it's working fine and is not overheating ! Even if it is overheating it's probably caused by too much crap on the cpu fan and heat sink oRead more

    “Anyway ill try to pull out the cpu than place it back to se if this solves the problem.”

    There’s a 99.9% chance it will NOT !
    You DO NOT need to re-seat the cpu if it’s working fine and is not overheating ! Even if it is overheating it’s probably caused by too much crap on the cpu fan and heat sink or improper overclocking settings – there’s probably nothing wrong with the thermal pad’s or thermal compound’s or thermal grease’s effectiveness in transferring heat.

    Sometimes thermal compound hardens such that it’s like it’s crazy glued to the cpu and it’s impossible to remove the heat sink from the cpu !

    You must replace the thermal compound if it has hardened, or the thermal pad that is between the cpu and the bottom of the heat sink when you remove the heat sink with new thermal compound or thermal grease (replacement thermal pads are hard to find). Thermal grease or thermal compound can be re-used if it’s clean, but thermal pad remains must be scraped off.

    “while the pc was cool (no program running) …”

    Programs are always running in memory when Windows is running, whether you are running a program yourself or not, but they may not be using CPU time. (Direct Memory Access).

    “1 month ago i’ve cleaned the cooler and the grill of dust …”

    Did you use a vacuum cleaner ?
    You’re NEVER supposed to use a vacuum cleaner because they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity when they’re running and anything connected to them can easily discharge static electricity to components on your mboard and damage them!

    “I wonder if its anything i can do to prevent a damage of the cpu?
    what do u think ?”

    The only thing you can do is wait and see what happens.
    The noise may not be significant at all.

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  7. JetsetglaNo two issues are ever quite alike or have the same cause and it is cumbersome for helpers trying to deal with two different people on the same thread. Please raise a new post of your own with the details requested and a full explanation about your problem. We can then focus on your own parRead more

    Jetsetgla

    No two issues are ever quite alike or have the same cause and it is cumbersome for helpers trying to deal with two different people on the same thread. Please raise a new post of your own with the details requested and a full explanation about your problem. We can then focus on your own particular situation.

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

    message edited by Derek

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  8. Could be loose RAM modules so check they are located in their slots properly and pushed fully home.May also be faulty RAM. You can test the RAM with Memtest86 which runs from a bootable CD: Emachines laptop with Continuous Beep on Start-upDownload the "Pre-built ISO for Windows": http://www.memtest.Read more

    Could be loose RAM modules so check they are located in their slots properly and pushed fully home.

    May also be faulty RAM. You can test the RAM with Memtest86 which runs from a bootable CD: Emachines laptop with Continuous Beep on Start-up

    Download the “Pre-built ISO for Windows”: http://www.memtest.org/
    Download & install “IMGBurn” from here: http://filehippo.com/download_imgburn/
    Use “IMGBurn” to create a CD from the ISO file.
    Boot your laptop from that CD to test the RAM.

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  9. Mine will not allow anything but source adjustments when the signal is unplugged - no brightness, contrast, color, etc.However, whatever the ways and wherefores of the monitor the fact remains that it will not work on a different tower. This means that either both towers have an obscure and identicaRead more

    Mine will not allow anything but source adjustments when the signal is unplugged – no brightness, contrast, color, etc.

    However, whatever the ways and wherefores of the monitor the fact remains that it will not work on a different tower. This means that either both towers have an obscure and identical fault or (far more likely) the monitor or its cable are faulty.

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

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