Not getting advertised speeds with cable internet and deskto

September 5, 2020 at 09:28:55
Specs: Windows 10, i7 6700/12 GB RAM
I just upgraded our cable internet online last night. We were paying for 200 Mb/s. Now we're paying for 400 Mb/s. Right after clicking the upgrade button, I went into the speedtest.net app and ran a speed test and I got 343 Mb/s. Not quite 400 Mb/s, but better than the 200 Mb/s. Today I'm getting 292 Mb/s on my phone. But my desktop PC gets way slower speeds. I'm getting 15 Mb/s.

I used to have my desktop PC in our bedroom, in the same room that we have the cable modem. So, I had the desktop wired into the router with a gig 5e cable. But, now I moved the desktop PC downstairs. The tower has a built in wifi card, but it was extremely flaky and dropping the internet connection often. So, I disabled the built in wifi adapter and added an asus wifi usb adapter. Seemed like right after I upgraded it, the speeds did improve and the stability is significantly better, but like today, I'm getting 15 Mb/s. What do I need to do to get the speeds up? The desktop is a few years old. But it has an i7-6700 with 16 GB RAM and a 1 TB SSD drive. It's pretty speedy otherwise in my book.

Any ideas what I can do to speed this up?


Oh, and I know the right thing to test to make sure I'm getting the full 400 Mb/s is to connect directly to my modem to make sure I'm getting it... funny thing though. I work in IT and I know how important an old outdated ethernet port is. (Well a gig port in this case.) Ports are going away and everything is wireless. I never really noticed my personal laptop doesn't have an ethernet adapter until today. (Never had a need for it.... maybe back in my CCNA days I would've paid more attention... but I've swayed away from networking in the last 15 years.) So, short of dragging my desktop back up the stairs, I don't have an easy way to just plug in a computer into the modem to see what the speeds are.

BTW, I have an Asus RT-AC3100 router hooked to the cable company provided cable modem.

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#1
September 5, 2020 at 10:47:37
I just ordered a gig ethernet usb adapter. i'll try that out tomorrow and see how fast of speeds I get.

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#2
September 5, 2020 at 11:45:48
Why not use homeplug adapters; and get the full monty that way via ethernet?

Connect your router to one adapter and put the other(s) wherever you'd like to have ethernet option. Plug in to the other adapters and you're away...

Ethernet is faster, more stable and more secure than wifi...

Using homeplugs you can also have another router (as an extender) anywhere you want it; be it rj45 ports only or with wifi as well.

And there are usb-ethernet adapters to allow kit without an ethernet port to connect using ethernet.

There are both usb hubs with an rj45 port, and simple usb-rj45 adapters around. I've tested both systems on an iPhone, iPad and Macbook and they work fine.

As to why the current poor wifi? Could be all manner of things. nature of what's in the walls etc. between the router and upstairs; cross channel interference; microwave interference? Let alone the actual wifi card(s) in use?

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#3
September 5, 2020 at 12:48:39
So, I've heard of running data over power lines, but have never seen it for sale. I just ordered one. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Related Solutions

#4
September 5, 2020 at 13:14:56
You need two at least.

In the UK and across the North Sea I’d recommend Devolo adapters, as they’re the best in my experience. Sadly they’re not available in USA/Canada.


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#5
September 5, 2020 at 15:25:45
So, I just bought this.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgea...

Just hooked it up. My speeds to my desktop downstairs did improve. The link on the ethernet adapter on the wall is showing a green light in the outlet I'm in so it means I'm getting full signal. But the link on my computer is showing only a 100 Mb/s link. I have the upstairs Netgear adapter plugged into the router using a CAT 6 cable. I bought 2 CAT6 cables... should've gotten 3. So, the second CAT6 cable, I have running into a gigabit switch downstairs (because I have two PCs downstairs.) From the switch, I connected the switch to the desktop PC using a CAT 5e cable, which should be capable of a gig port speed. But, the link is showing only 100 Mb/s. (I tried manually setting it to a gig and it just shows link not connected.)


But the speed test did improve. Wireless I was getting 16 Mb/s down and 9 Mb/s up. Now i'm getting 45 Mb/s down and 22.29 up. Far cry from the 400 Mb/s I'm supposed to be getting.

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#6
September 5, 2020 at 15:55:19
So, I just hooked up my work computer to the switch also. My work computer at least is showing a gig connection to the switch. But, my speed tests are 45 Mb/s down and 22 Mb/s up.

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#7
September 5, 2020 at 16:46:08
Also, just curiosity, can I have more than two of these plugs in my house? Right now I have two which basically is acting like a straight through cable. But if I had more than two, how would that work? Would it act like a hub where everything is on a single broadcast collision domain or would it somehow act more like a switch, or does it not work at all?

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#8
September 5, 2020 at 17:29:21
So, I just switched the cable from the switch to the desktop pc with a different cat5e cable and now i'm showing a gig connection. Still getting 42.39 Mb/s down and 21.81 Mb/s up.

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#9
September 5, 2020 at 18:43:13
To what SERVER are you connected with speedtest?
What is your ISP?

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#10
September 5, 2020 at 18:53:30
Looks like JTM Broadband, LLC in Hohenwald, TN (which is pretty close to where I live.) Just tried United Communications in Chapel Hill, TN and 40.98 Mb/s down and 22.65 Mb/s up.

Charter is our ISP.


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#11
September 5, 2020 at 23:11:47
Spectrum is part of Charter. Most likely your provider.
Try this page: https://www.spectrum.com/internet/s...

Maybe you have visited this page already:
https://www.spectrum.net/support/in...

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#12
September 6, 2020 at 01:24:48
You can have several home plugs and they all talk to each other; similar as if a hub.

If you have adapters with different specs./speeds the slowest determines the speed that one communicates with any other. So if A was slower than say B or C, and. B and C are the same (faster) speed, then B and C will talk to each other at the higher speed, but talk at the slower speed of A.

What speeds are your Netgears?

What speed do you get if you connect your desktop (ethernet port) directly to your cable modem?

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#13
September 6, 2020 at 07:54:26
I ordered a usb to ethernet adapter. Im going to try hooking up my laptop directly to the cable modem. (Instead of using the home plugs.... think this is a better test.)

The only thing I have netgear is the homeplugs which are a gig.


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#14
September 6, 2020 at 08:02:36
so, from what i know about a hub vs switch..... one a switch each port is its own collision domain. A hub, all ports are part of a single collision domain. Also, a fully switched network ensures there are no collisions. Once you introduce a hub, you have collisions. Hubs work on half duplex where a switch is full duplex. So, these homeplugs, if working like a hub then are running half duplex and having collisions which affect speed.

A few months ago, I was trying to figure out how to just run cat 5e through my house. I was going to use rhe phone lines and convert them to ethernet. They're already using cat5. I doubt it's cat5e though, so it means I would be limited to 100 mbs if I used that.

So, I guess, short of tearing up my walls and running cat5e or cat6, the homeplugs are my best choice.


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#15
September 6, 2020 at 09:15:56
I get more or less the full speed my dsl offers over all home plugs. Unless there are several users on the lan via homeplugs, there isn’t usually an issue. Logically if two or more are using The lan the incoming bandwidth is shared, and that’s nothing to do with the homeplugs.

Unless someone was streaming heavy content - typically HD movies... - I doubt you’d notice any degradation...

Does your desktop have Ethernet and have you tested it directly into the modem/router?

My dsl is a 60Mbps service. Speedtest via my iPad shows a Wi-Fi of 55Mbps download, 20Mbps upload. Ethernet via homeplugs (on my Macs is almost 60Mbps...) and direct into the all in one router is much the same.

There are also homeplugs adapters which provide a Wi-Fi repeater function too, and also include at least one Ethernet port. That Wi-Fi signal is close to (if not the same as) that which my router gives out. I have one in my kitchen to extend Wi-Fi into my garden, as without it the router’s Wi-Fi drops out about 15ft. from my house; the plugin extends it by at least another 20ft. They are simply plug in, let the system register them and that’s it; they radiate the Ethernet signal as Wi-Fi.

Is your cable connection a modem feeding a separate router, or an all in one?


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#16
September 6, 2020 at 10:03:39
The modem and router is separate. I plan on testing directly to the modem as soon as i get the USB to ethernet adapter.

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#17
September 6, 2020 at 12:04:32
Ok, so an update. I got the USB-C to Ethernet adapter in the mail. I first hooked it up directly to the modem and ran a speed test and I got 460 Mb/s. I then hooked my router back up. First speed test I got 250 Mb/s. But then I ran it again and got 460 Mb/s and did a few more times and got about the same speed. So, I confirmed I am getting what I paid for. (Can't blame Charter.) On the PC downstairs though where I'm using the Netgear Homeplug, I'm still getting around 40 Mb/s. So, even though it says I'm supposed to be able to get 1 Gb/s end to end and it's showing a 1 Gb/s connection, I'm not getting it. I'm loosing speed between these two devices. It's still better speeds than wireless... but kind of disappointing. Also my wireless speed tests are now getting about 150 Mb/s.

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#18
September 6, 2020 at 12:12:04
Which model Netgear adapters?

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#19
September 6, 2020 at 12:21:32
I just can't figure out why my wireless on my phone I get 150 Mb/s right next to my desktop PC but my desktop computer using either the built in wifi or the asus USB wifi adapter, I'm only getting 20 Mb/s.

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#20
September 6, 2020 at 12:22:51
They're Netgear Powerline 1000 PL1000v2

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#21
September 6, 2020 at 13:28:55
Ok, so here are some more results. I moved the power adapter so I had both in the bedroom just different outlets. When I did this, I got 238 Mb/s over the Powerline adapters. One of the outlets downstairs, I was able to get 85 Mb/s. Another outlet just outside the room where I have my PC, I got 93 Mb/s. But, as soon as I plug into an outlet in the room with the computer, I get 40 Mb/s.

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#22
September 6, 2020 at 13:30:42
I guess if I got desperate, I could open my electrical panel and hook my bedroom and downstairs office on the same breaker. Probably would end up blowing the breaker often though doubling up the breaker load... I can't think of a safe way of doing this. I was thinking... when you take breakers out of a breaker box, you have the backplane where the metal is criss crossing so every other breaker is hooking to an opposite hot wire coming into the house, so if you have a double breaker, it hits both and gets 220. As long as I jumpered two breakers that were on the same 1 hot wire coming into the house, then I wouldn't be doubling up on the voltage. But, I could imagine an electrician looking at my box in the future and giving me a look of dismay and disappointment. But if I could somehow hook the hots together, they wouldn't have to traverse different breakers and bring up my speed.

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#23
September 6, 2020 at 14:30:33
I'm suspicious about the type of wiring you may have... Way back (in the late 20th Century...) aluminum wiring was around... I don't think it's allowed today but may still be in some installations... It's not that reliable over time...; and might contribute to the situations you describe re' data transfers between the homeplugs (and the router)- impedance issues. Likewise the outlets designed for that wiring were spec’d differently to those for pure copper? How olde is your house wiring; and are you able to discover which outlets are on which leg/phase in your breaker/fuse box?

If there is an RCD (in the UK) - GFR (in Canada/USA) - that too may be playing a part...

They can cause all manner of problems. If you have distribution/fuse/breaker box that has an RCD/GFR on one leg and the other leg/phase isn’t sharing that RDC/GFR then homeplugs frequently won’t work well, if at all. The homeplugs in outlets on the RCD/GFR will talk to each other but those on the other leg/phase won’t; or may do so with significant attenuation. In the UK our wiring codes/style is lot simpler than the system used in Canada/USA; and it does avoid a lot of problems which are endemic in N. American SoHo wiring... If I put a homeplug into an outlet that has an RCD/GRF protecting it, and another in an outlet which has no RCD/GFR protection... the two homeplugs generally won’t talk to each other. Put them both on the non RCD/GFR cct. and they will and likewise both on the RCD/GFR they will talk.

Another factor that may affect how well homeplugs will talk to each other... is the way those assorted outlets are attached to the breaker(s)... This especially for the style of wiring in Canada/USA. If they’re on long run, strung out feed, looping in/out of each outlet in turn...; or if branching looping in/out and also off to different outlets and so on. The latter is a hiding to nowhere... If you run phone outlets following the latter style you attenuate the signal, which is why phone outlets are best run as if on a “string” and run/looped in/out from one to another. At worst two separate runs – one for upstairs and one for downstairs...

I would NOT advise or encourage making changes in the breaker/fuse box – unless you really know what you’re doing...The results could be fatal – unlikely but...; or at least they be rather less than desired...

I can’t offer any thoughts re’ the discrepancies between the two wifi adapters; other than are they using a frequency the (wifi) router uses, and as the router is dual band... have you tested using it say the lower then the higher frequency? The higher doesn’t ravel as far as the lower, and is very vulnerable to attenuation, compared to the lower. Which is where many come unstuck. I discovered that way back during trawls about the two frequencies – the pluses and minuses... Also (I think I’m correct in that) when you’re are using wifi the bandwidth is split between receiving from the router and sending to it...? But that’s not an area I’m really au-fait on. Possibly CurtR (or one or two others similar) may drop across here and offer more experienced input; and maybe/hopefully provide a (wifi) solution?

Similarly why the phone wifi performs better than the computers? It may be that there are firmware updates required for the computers; one of which you say isn’t exactly “new”... ? Personally I never found usb wifi to be any good; and gave up on it as soon as I could.

Re’ the ethernet aspect: if the modem and router are giving the same results when using ethernet – be it via the usb-rj45 adapter or straight ethernet/cat-5-6 - (straight into the desktop and/or any other computers) - then at least you know the router “may” be OK. But if those speed tests are, or become, variable, inconsistent... then perhaps try another known good router?

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#24
September 6, 2020 at 15:06:10
Ok, so I hooked up a usb wifi adapter to the desktop (a different one) and I'm getting 100 Mb/s at the desktop wirelessly now. Faster than what I was getting with the homeplugs. What do you all think if I were to switch my router to a mesh router? Wonder if that would get my speed up closer to the 400 Mb/s wirelessly... I get 400 Mb/s wireless with my phone when I'm upstairs.

With the electrical... I'm not an electrician... but I have wired one of my barns from scratch without any electrical. I installed an electrical breaker box in the barn off of one of the breakers in the house. Trenched it to the barn and wired in the breaker box and then ran all the outlets and lights. It was a learning experience. (Only electrocuted myself once... lol... me just being stupid and didn't feel like turning off the breaker because I didn't think I was going to bump something hot... but I did...) The house I'm in now, I've installed a few new outlets to make things work better. So, I can hold up my own when it comes to electrical.

(I didn't get any permits when I did this... just did it. I guess my confirmation that I did it all right is when I sold the house and the electrical inspection didn't flag it at all. They didn't even question who did it.)

But I don't know if I'm going to change my box to see if I can make that work better...Maybe I could use one of the double mini breakers and hook up the upstairs bedroom and the downstairs office on the double breaker. That wouldn't be breaking any electrical codes because they are physically two different breakers and they would be for sure on the same hot wire coming into the house. Maybe I'll do that if I get frustrated enough.

Oh, and we have cooper wire... not aluminum. Our house is about 10 years old... fairly new.

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#25
September 7, 2020 at 06:33:40
ran a speed test and I got 343 Mb/s. Not quite 400 Mb/s,

Believe it or not, this is good and to be expected. Typically there's some overhead so you can expect 80% of the stated rate and if you're getting that, it's good. You're getting 80%

From what I'm seeing, it looks like everything is working the way it should when you're connected to the router with a network cable. PC connects at 1 Gig, internet at 300+ Mbps.

So the issue is likely your SOHO router.........considering you've tried a couple different wireless network interfaces and all with the same result this points at the radio(s) in the router itself. If you can, try testing with a different router. If you have a friend with a router you know works fine, have them bring it over and try it.

NOTE: your ISP may (probably) restricts the number of MAC addresses that can connect to their system. If they do, you'll have to spoof the MAC address of the router you're using now so make note of it before you try connecting anything else to the modem.

If you connect wirelessly to the other router at the rate you expect, and get decent bandwidth externally(keeping in mind it won't be as good as a wired connection) then you know for sure it's your router and you need to replace it.

It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate;
I am the captain of my soul.

***William Henley***


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#26
September 7, 2020 at 10:18:57
If I got 350 Mb/s at my desktop, I would be happy. I'm not getting anywhere near that through the homeplug that is supposed to be a Gig connection between my two homeplugs.

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#27
September 8, 2020 at 04:02:26
Re' the homeplugs and testing them.

Put them in outlets on the same fuse/mcb and then see how they well they communicate? Initially say in the same room, then another room; then (if wiring allows it) in a room upstairs. The important point being that all test outlets are on the "same" fuse/mcb cct. Logically don't put them in the same twin outlet (if there is room enough for that).

Generally these devices are trouble free and work right out of the box; but not unknown for the occasional one to be duff (faulty) on arrival. Over the years I've used Devolo homeplugs I've had one fail - and it was several years olde by then. Otherwise they've all been as spec'd and reliably so. I'm now on their later (white) series) which are faster than their earlier blue series. They too are equally reliable.

Another factor which can affect homeplug performance is the contact resistance in the mains outlet...; how well fitting is the adapter; and how worn/oxidised etc. are the outlet's sockets? Fair to say it's never been an issue for me; and in a 10yr old house I doubt it's an issue here; but no harm to confirm that the sockets in use are a decent/firm fit?

A long shot are the actual ethernet cables of course; again there is the occasional dud/duff one...?

I do find my thoughts moving even more in the direction of the router...

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#28
September 8, 2020 at 05:57:42
The whole point of using a router with a cable modem is so youre only using one mac address (at least thats what the isp sees.) If you used a switch, then every device on your network would need a public ip but also all of your Mac addresses would need to be allowed to the isp. In a router setting, you can use the routers Mac, or a pcs mac or a custom mac. But rhey only see one mac address.

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#29
September 8, 2020 at 06:23:36
I've never had any need of a switch; a hub on occasion... yes in the distant past - pre homeplug evolution. But generally these day if I needed more ports - and usually remote from the main router - a second router configured as an extender from the first usually works fine. And that's connected via homeplugs to the primary/main router...; or via a direct cat5/6 cable. Since I have homeplugs dotted about I seldom need the remote/extender router approach; and as I use wifi modules too there is even less need to use a second router in that mode as well. Homeplugs provide me with more than enuff ethernet ports (my adapters all have two at least, with the exception of the wifi modules which have only have only one).

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#30
September 8, 2020 at 09:51:01
Well, not to pick nits guys but............a couple points..........

A hub broadcasts indiscriminately to all devices connected to it. Whereas a switch only broadcasts from one port to another.

Example.

8 port hub with devices plugged into all ports. Device in port 1 talks to device in port 8. All that traffic is broadcast to all 8 ports.

8 port switch, same example as above, data is only broadcast from 1-8 and vice versa. Ports 2-7 are not bothered with conversation between 1 and 8.

This is why nobody makes hubs anymore that I'm aware of. Like most early techonology, once it's replaced by something better, nobody makes them because people stop buying. "Smart" switching prevents 'broadcast storms'.

So, "hub" is not a term that should be used. Like saying "speed" when talking networking. The physical data travels ove the medium at a set rate, be it copper or fiber. So the "speed" remains constant. The correct term is "bandwidth" which is a measure of how much data can flow past any one point in a network in one second. 1000 Mbps is not ten times faster than 100.........it allows ten times as much data to be passed through in the same amount of time.

Sorry, pet peeves of mine.

Dorlow

The SOHO Router you use at home is basically a switch with DHCP and NAT built into it. I have a 48 port managed switch here at home that operates on not only layers 1 and 2, but also layer 3. I could in fact, if I wanted to, enable the routing features on it and do away with my SOHO Router. My ISP would never know the difference.

But this would require me to also run something else to do my firewalling and while I do run a BSD box here at home. I'm not overly familiar with pf and have no urgent need to learn it so I've stayed with my SOHO Router connected to my modem. It's the simplest setup and I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle....lol

I think however you're referring more to an 8 port layer 1 only switch but I coudln't help showing off a wee bit.........LOL ;)

Personally, being a network guy, I wouldn't use the stuff you plug into your power outlets..........but that's me. I have my main internet connection and SOHO Router in the basement. I drilled a hole through the floor in my home office to my wife's home office immediately above it and added a second SOHO Router in her office. Because both of us are the same end of the house, I added a Unifi Ubiquiti AP AC Pro in my basement in a central location. Most of my wireless stuff connects to it including my smart TV and my home theater system.

trvlr knows a lot more about the power adapters than I ever will so take his advice and if you can, connect both ends on the same circuit (same breaker/fuse whatever you guys use over there in the UK) and test. If that doesn't work, then you'll need to look at pulling network cables (if possible) or improving your wifi with a good access point or router replacement (or both).

It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate;
I am the captain of my soul.

***William Henley***


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#31
September 8, 2020 at 10:10:17
I would way rather not use the data over power.... but I don't know how I would get cables to all my rooms short of ripping all the walls apart. I would also have to get the wires down a floor which means I would have to somehow get the wires through the subfloor which would be a lot of demolition. A few months ago, I bought this cool tool for running wires through insulated finished walls. It's called a magnipull. But, it only works dropping wires down walls. You can't run the wires horizontal in the walls. There are studs in the walls you can't get past without drilling holes through them. I would have to trench my walls and that's a lot of work to repair. They make commercial buildings have the ability to run wires after the fact without ripping apart the buildings. They don't do that for residential houses (that I've ever seen.)

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#32
September 8, 2020 at 16:29:14
I agree re’ the misuse of the word “speed” when really one ought to use bandwidth. “Mea culpa” at times there...

I find homeplugs useful and a reasonable compromise for many situation; but if possible... actual cable is always better.

Depending on how your home is constructed there are ways to get cat-5/6 cables to almost any part. They can be run outside and enter through an outside wall into whichever room?

They can be run up into the roof space/loft and then drop down inside a stud wall – even a wall that has been dry line (wallboard mounted on 2x1 battens?). If dropping inside a stud wall the only thing in the way might be a noggin...; and that’s not difficult to get around. One way is to cut a (square/rectangular) hole in the wall board such that the lower edge of the hole is in-line with the upper edge of the noggin. Drill a hole through the noggin to allow cable to pass... Then patch the hole in the wall board using one of several approached; be it the California patch, or one of several other well known methods too. One could even cut out a three-four inch section of the noggin to a depth of an inch; in the centre notch it deep enough to allow cables to pass in the notch; then replace the missing part of the noggin with a piece of 2x1 – screwing it in place either side of the cable notch. Then insert/affix the wallboard patch and skim over it as per. Key point is to remove no more than a third of the noggin in depth – including the cable notch.

If cutting the hole at ceiling level (and thus the stud wall header) then the top edge of the hole lines up with the bottom edge of the header...

Another way to drop the cable from the roof space/loft is to use a piece of trunking – which can be concealed in a built-in closet, or in a corner where it won’t be obvious (once painted over).

I have two cat6 cables - from a surface mounted box adjacent to my phone master socket (which is how my dsl arrives of course - no fibre or other cable feed) - exiting through an outside wall, and running up into the roof space/loft. They then traverse that loft into a second one and from there they drop down inside a stud wall to surface in a small bedroom/office... I was fortunate that one side of that wall was being reboarded – replacing old lathe ‘n plaster, and the other side was already wallboard; so it was easy to achieve the drop. Otherwise I would have used one the approaches as above – although for that wall there were no noggins inside it. It was originally lathe ‘n plaster on both sides and the lathes were left in place when the other side wall boarded side, and thus those lathes keep the studs stable; not that they’ve moved any over say 60+years... The house is over 130yrs olde... A similar approach can be used to run mains cables either from the top or from below?

I’m aware that many Canadian/USA houses are built in a different way to UK/Europe; and often have aluminium (aluminum) or PVC cladding which makes punching holes through from between inside/outside not as simple as say for brick/stone walls. But they usually a way to make that access/exit hole; or get a cable in/out somehow? Biggest problem is often finding a long enough masonry or whatever drill bit; and even then one “may” occasionally” have to use drill bits with extension tubes...?

Drilling through a noggin (via a hole cut into the wallboard) is often easier using a right angled drill, or a drill attachment which allows a 90 degree drill job. I have the latter and it’s does it nicely. Right angled drill units in the UK aren’t cheap; they are in Germany – where some are manufactured (so much for the EEC prices...), and equally cheap(er) in Canada/USA. If no right angled drill etc. then the notch approach as above is a good standby/alternative.

Cables outside are proper weather proof type; and clipped to the wall every foot or so; and a little spare (a small loop) at both ends where they exit/enter. The run is well under the 100metres/330ft. limit. I can thus use both homeplugs and direct cable between the modem/router (all in one) for that room.

Years ago a chum, when moving into an older house, and having it rewired etc. before he actually moved in properly, instructed the electrical types to install cable trays around the ground floor perimeter – and not sitting on the ground...; and possibly some upstairs too? They wondered why and he told them it was for future cable runs – he was into early computing, networking and video systems designs.... Any time I have a floor up I install cables for networking and for phones and leave plenty spare at both ends... If I was seriously gutting and refurbishing a house I would include cat-5/6 cables runs various; and likewise phone cables. Ideally any home of mine would have wired phone points in all rooms, and whenever possible wired rj45 ports in most/all rooms.

Incidentally it's never a good practice to run cables horizontally unless they're only in the gap between two studs, and not through them; and allowed a bit of slack? All cables - whatever they may be - are best (and safest) rising or dropping vertically - never horizontally - except as immediately prior. And under floors keep data/phones away from mains; and if they must cross then they cross a right angles. Similarly within walls keep data/phone and mains as far away from each other as is possible, practical. We (used to) go great lengths in that area wiring/installing studios, control rooms, meeting rooms etc.; to keep power and other cables apart. I suspect that many these days aren't always quite so careful, when it comes to cable runs...

This is a couple of ways to cut/patch holes in wallboard; and includes a version of the California patch - which you may already know about?

https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/patc...

In domestic situations data over power (at least for me and several chums (SoHo included) have found no problems. And there is no security issue either; as they only work within your system and the modules can be passworded/encrypted access. With that password option no-one can add in a module and automatically access the lan...

I tested that way back and found it effective; but I don't use/need it in my own home.

message edited by trvlr


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