Solved Upgrading my CPU and Motherboard

April 17, 2017 at 20:07:38
Specs: Windows 7, AMD FX(tm)-8120 Eight-Core Processor
Hello, i think my motherboard or CPU is burnt out and overheats whenever i play a game or do more than browse the internet. I would like to replace both instead of dealing with figuring it out. I had a local computer shop look at it and quote me on replacing them and he is charging 100 an hour for labor when i am sure the total cost wont even be more then 300. I have an AMD FX(tm)-8120 Eight-Core Processor and a 760 gm-P34(fx)(ms-7641) motherboard. i think my graphics card and PSU should be sufficient for now. I want a nice upgrade that will run all the games i would like to play without really going over 250-300 dollars. The other issue i have is i don't really know what i am doing when it comes to installing these parts. I am sure i can install them into the case but is there anything else i would need to do or upgrade if i did upgrade these two parts? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

See More: Upgrading my CPU and Motherboard

Reply ↓  Report •

✔ Best Answer
April 19, 2017 at 16:58:37
Replace the power supply with a good brand (single 12Volt Rail, Active PFC, 80% or greater certified efficient, 3 year or greater warranty).
Reset the CPU heat sink as noted above.
Reset BIOS first to defaults, then manually make sure time, date, time zone, CPU, Primary Graphics (onboard vs PCIe), Memory, drives, boot order, etc.
Unplug side fan. They do no good and actually disrupt smooth air flow through the case.
Flip over the bottom mounted power supply so it draw air from inside the case. Bottom filters get clogged and you will never know it until it is too late. Bottom air draw cannot be used on carpet and needs more free clearance around it. If necessary replace the rear exhaust fan with a higher CFM model for better overall cooling (you can get decent fans between $10. & $20. and throw away the $2. that came with the case). You can still look for quiet fans (low Db) with dual ball bearings within the price range with high CFM's.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.



#1
April 18, 2017 at 02:18:43
You would of course have to do a fresh install of Windows since you're changing the motherboard, but maybe you already know that.

Reply ↓  Report •

#2
April 18, 2017 at 05:57:44
If your "motherboard or CPU is burnt out" your computer wouldn't be working.

When was the last time you cleaned out the dust/dirt inside of your case? Use canned or compressed air to BLOW out the insides. Be sure to also do the power supply from both ends. DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner as it can zap the sensitive components with static discharge.

If your computer previously worked OK then you should be able to get it back to that point again.

Download and run in real time, HWMonitor to check the computer voltages and temperatures. Post the numbers here. You need to post two sets of temperatures. At idle and under load. HWMonitor can run in the tray by the clock and provide real time numbers. GEt HWMonitor at the link below.

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmo...


Reply ↓  Report •

#3
April 18, 2017 at 13:36:36
As OtheHill stated, if your "motherboard or CPU is burnt out", your system wouldn't work at all. You have an overheating problem, either due to dust build up or an improperly installed CPU cooler.

Reply ↓  Report •

Related Solutions

#4
April 18, 2017 at 16:39:05
Agreed, OR possibly your power supply is going. To tell this you can post the primary voltages as reported in HWMonitor or in BIOS. The 12V, 5V, & 3.3V readings need to be +/- 5% of their nominal values. If even one is not within that range then replace the power supply.
Note: I just noticed that the volts were requested along with the temps. Both are real possibilities here.
If you are really bent on spending money for components not really needed or want to upgrade a bit at this time, please post a detailed list of your components (make & model numbers on all including power supply, graphics card, memory (Qty, size, & speed at least), drives, general case size (mid tower, compact, etc), and anything that might effect how they might work with newer components.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


Reply ↓  Report •

#5
April 18, 2017 at 18:02:14
https://ibb.co/mpptWQ
https://ibb.co/jJOyy5
I don't know why it always says trial on some of the parts but here is one with all of them.
https://ibb.co/dPLvd5

So i reset the CMOS earlier thinking it would help but it didn't work of course. Actually now every time i reset my computer it says CMOS date/time not set, CMOS settings wrong. I set it everytime i start up and everything is fine but it is annoying to have to do it every time. I will be buying a new battery for it in the morning and see if that helps. The first thing i did before posting on here was clean all the dust out and reapplying thermal paste but it did not change anything. I will take out my PSU and blow it out, I did not do that step and i can see some dust in there. It is a cheap extreme gear. I dont really want to put it under a load because it goes up to 100c and will shut off after a bit and that worries me. My next step was to go buy a better CPU cooler. hopefully those images helps you all figure out how to help fix this problem. Thanks by the way!

This is after running World of Warships for 5minutes on medium settings. If i let it run longer it will keep going up tell it shuts off.
https://ibb.co/fZsfBQ
This is after playing sims 4 for about 15 minutes. TMPIN0 and TMPIN1 slowly goes up and im sure would continue to rise but it is a lot cooler now so it is getting colder airflow.
https://ibb.co/h2Cmkk

I really don't know what i'm doing, any advice would be nice, Thanks!


Update: Extreme Gear 700w ATX power supply
760 GM-P34(fx)(ms-7641)
AMD FX(tm)-8120 Eight Core Processor
AMD Radeon HD 6600 series graphics card
Seagate Barracuda 1000 GB
My case has a front air intake fan, A side intake fan, A back outtake fan, The power supply draws air from the bottom.

message edited by Zerian


Reply ↓  Report •

#6
April 19, 2017 at 14:37:27
Your problem is you bought a CyberPowerPC. Did you configure the hardware or did you buy a pre-configured system? I'm guessing you went with their "standard power supply" rather than getting a name brand one. The voltages are out of whack, especially the +12v. Looks like Fingers was right. And there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with your CMOS battery voltage. I don't know why you thought resettng it would fix things, but ALL the BIOS settings will now need to be corrected.

Also, your CPU is overheating. How did you apply the thermal paste? AMD CPUs use the "middle dot" method. If that's not how you did it, remove the heatsink & all the paste, then do it over. Just place a dot in the middle of the CPU & set the heatsink on it. When you lock it down, it will spread out as needed.

http://blog.corsair.com/wp-content/...

message edited by riider


Reply ↓  Report •

#7
April 19, 2017 at 16:58:37
✔ Best Answer
Replace the power supply with a good brand (single 12Volt Rail, Active PFC, 80% or greater certified efficient, 3 year or greater warranty).
Reset the CPU heat sink as noted above.
Reset BIOS first to defaults, then manually make sure time, date, time zone, CPU, Primary Graphics (onboard vs PCIe), Memory, drives, boot order, etc.
Unplug side fan. They do no good and actually disrupt smooth air flow through the case.
Flip over the bottom mounted power supply so it draw air from inside the case. Bottom filters get clogged and you will never know it until it is too late. Bottom air draw cannot be used on carpet and needs more free clearance around it. If necessary replace the rear exhaust fan with a higher CFM model for better overall cooling (you can get decent fans between $10. & $20. and throw away the $2. that came with the case). You can still look for quiet fans (low Db) with dual ball bearings within the price range with high CFM's.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


Reply ↓  Report •

#8
April 19, 2017 at 18:04:33
I bought a corsair fan today and installed it on the top. i have my pc mounted on two boards so it is up about 2 inches off the carpet but i will flip the power supply over and try that. I also bought a better CPU cooler. It is much larger and has the copper tubes through it. Should i still unplug my side fan blowing into the case? It seems to be running a little bit cooler but i will play a game for a bit and see where it is at. I will go buy a better power supply next Wednesday when i get payed again and hopefully that will fix the voltage issues. Is it safe to run as is for a week? Also can someone help me with setting up the BIOS from a CMOS reset? I have no idea what to do. I set the time and date but it still says its wrong so i am guessing the CPU, Graphics, Memory, drives, boot order are wrong? Which i do not know how to do. I am sure i can dink around in there and find it but i don't want to mess it up.

This is after playing World of Warships for an hour. Seems much better. The power supply still worries me though because ive read many horror stories online about xtreme gear power supplies from cyber power. What are your thoughts? After this the issue should be resolved.
https://ibb.co/kzOUMQ

This is after playing sims 4 for about an hour. The max is what it got up to which it always went down a few degrees and is now low because i closed the game.
https://ibb.co/etRfvk

message edited by Zerian


Reply ↓  Report •

#9
April 20, 2017 at 09:16:29
Try a different monitoring program. There's no way your system would work with the +12v rail only putting out 9v. And if that reading is wrong, it means the others could be wrong too. Give OCCT a try. It's generally used for load testing but it also has a decent monitoring screen.

http://www.ocbase.com/

MSI Afteburner should work too.

https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner


Reply ↓  Report •

#10
April 20, 2017 at 17:32:05
Ok, that is a little weird. I used 3 different programs to see what they were reading and they all said in the 9v range so i went into bios and it said it was at 12.056v so does that mean its a bad sensor or what? I am guessing sinse it is a crapy power supply that i should just replace it anyways which ill do wednesday or when i get my taxes back. Thanks again for all the info guys.

https://ibb.co/m0dfvk CAM
https://ibb.co/cKsJgQ OCCT

Also every time i start my computer i have to re enter my time and date in bios. Can you help me on how to set all of my bios without it forgetting every time? i save it when i am done and i bought a new battery for it so i am not sure why it does that. I wish i never used a jumper on it..
Also on the thermal paste, I applied it that way because it is an Eight Core and i have read that 4 of the cores are in the corners and ive seen videos of the P method and it doesn't usually reach the corners unless you put a lot which it then builds up on the outside edges of the CPU or is too much paste.I think i did it pretty good but i could be wrong, I am no expert at this. The temps seem fine but i have plenty of paste if you think i should redo it.

message edited by Zerian


Reply ↓  Report •

#11
April 20, 2017 at 21:02:03
Temps look much better.
Some motherboards do not read well in some programs, trust BIOS voltage so you should be OK until you upgrade PS.
I do not know AMD well so I will not comment on thermal compound method but on my first CPU change (many years ago) I used the spread method (incorrect) on a P4 and it worked OK so I must not have got any air bubbles accidentally.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


Reply ↓  Report •

#12
April 21, 2017 at 13:41:33
Middle dot is the proper method, anything else is wrong.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/amd_app...


Reply ↓  Report •

#13
April 22, 2017 at 16:13:40
thanks for that link riider

Reply ↓  Report •

Ask Question