System Boot Problem

Asus P5kpl-vm desktop board
December 11, 2010 at 01:01:40
Specs: Windows 7 Ultimate x64, C2D2.8GHZ/4GB

I have a problem that sometimes when I boot my system the lights on it i.e the hard drive incator light and power light along with the light in the mouse just flashes for less then a second its like a blink of an eye and the lights turn off. Then when I press the power button again nothing happens. I have the turn the computers main power off for 3-4 minutes and then turn it back on and then when I press the power button the system boots up.

Note that sometimes it takes 3 tries with the same problem for the system to boot up.

My system specs are:
Core2Duo E7400@2.8Ghz
Kingston 2GB DDR2@800
Motherboard ASUS P5KPL-VM
Hard Drive 160GB MAXTOR SATA
Graphic card nvidia 9400GT (I do no gaming. Only Videos and Movies)
1 ASUS PATA SuperMulti DVD Writer
1 SONY """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

So what could be the problem. Please HELP!
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December 11, 2010 at 01:19:40
Do u have a spare psu? If yes try it.

We can not fight new wars with old weapons, let he who desires piece prepare for war - PROPHET.

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December 11, 2010 at 06:11:38
hi. I dont have a spare psu. Although my psu fan does sumtimes makes strange sounds. And what about the motherboard could it be a problem wid that.?
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December 11, 2010 at 08:16:07
"Although my psu fan does sumtimes makes strange sounds"

It's a lot more likely that noise is coming from the CPU fan, not the PS fan.
Or you may have a video card in a mboard slot and if it has a fan on it the noise may be coming from that fan.
Whatever fan it is, you must replace it, because the fan probably cannot reliably spin at it's max speed anymore, and whatever it cools will likely overheat - the noise likely indicates the fan's bearings are in poor shape.

You have symptoms of CPU or PS overheating.

If the cpu fan is the culprit, or if's okay but it's got too much mung (dust, lint) etc. on it and the cpu heat sink
- the CPU temp reading in the bios Setup will be higher than normal when you are having problems
- the computer will work fine for a while after it has been started up after having a chance to cool to room temp, and then you will have problems after the computer has warmed up .

If the PS has two or more fans, the PS is probably not overheating.
E.g. one you can see at the back of the case, one at the bottom of it inside the case.

If a PS fan is the culprit
- you will hear the noise loudest when you place your ear directly behind the fan's air outlet on the back of the case
- the CPU temp reading in the bios Setup will NOT be significantly higher than normal when you are having problems, unless you have only one PS fan and it isn't spinning at all.
- the computer will work fine for a while after it has been started up after having a chance to cool to room temp, and then you will have problems after the computer has warmed up .

If a fan and the heat sink it cools, if applicable, has too much mung on it, clean that off, but DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner to do that.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

9400 GT
Click on Specifications
Use the Scroll bar to scroll down
Minimum Recommended System Power (W) 300 W

Some card manufacturers specify 350 watts minimum.

In any case, a minimum +12 Volt current rating of 18 amps

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.

You playing a movie may require more power just like as if you were playing a video game.

300 X 1.25 = 375 watts minimum
350 X 1.25 = 437.5 watts minimum
18 X 1.25 = 22.5 amps minimum +12v current rating

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Related Solutions

December 12, 2010 at 06:28:35

The fan which makes noise is the psu fan as I have checked it by borrowing a friends power supply.. though the fan still works........its the internal fan.... I am having the same problem with the power supply i borrowed... its a cooler master 490WATTS power supply.... even my power supply has enough capacity its 450Watts.... and i have checked the minimum recommended power the system must have from an option on the asus website by selecting the hardware i have... and i have more capacity then required...... talking about cleaning the system i clean mine every 2 - 3 months using compressed air cans very carefully...

although there is a problem with the psu fan the system works fine when its on.... stays fine for even hours like 14-16 hrs.. its working fine and not giving any problems

any further assistance...?
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December 12, 2010 at 09:13:32
Since you've tried another PS...

"...the hard drive incator light and power light along with the light in the mouse just flashes for less then a second its like a blink of an eye and the lights turn off."

Make sure the case Power button is not sticking inwards such that the power switch is being held depressed - on all the time. If it is doing that, the mboard will shut off in a short time, usually within 4 or 5 seconds or less, and if it's still stuck inwards when you press the button after that, the mboard will not boot.
When you remove the power to the case, then restore it, the situation is re-set, and if the power button is not sticking inwards when you press it, the computer will boot up fine.

Other possibilities.....

You may have just enough of a poor connection of your ram in it's slots, or just enough a poor connection of a card in a mboard slot, that you sometimes don't intially get a proper boot.

Make sure all cards are all the way down in their slots.

Remove the power to the case, remove the ram, wipe off it's contacts with a tissue or a soft cloth, don't touch the contacts with your fingers after that, install the ram, making sure the notch in the bottom of the module lines up with the bump in the bottom of the slot and that the ram is all the way down on it's slot.

You should replace the fan inside the PS as soon as you can manage it. When it has gotten to the point it makes noise, it's bearings are definitely in bad shape, and eventually it's likely to seize and not spin at all. If it's a standard 2 wire 80mm fan, you could replace it with a 3 wire 80mm case fan and run the 3 pin connector to a fan header on the mboard so that you can monitor it's rpm. The fan should have TWO ball bearings (if the label or description says "Ball Bearing" without an s, it's got a ball bearing on the blade side, an el-cheapo sleeve bearing on the other side), ceramic bearings, or some Japanese fans have "sealed" or similar sleeve bearings that have the lubrication oil sealed in.

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December 14, 2010 at 01:38:36
Hey.... I have checked my ram and graphic card before and also I have rechecked it after you told me to. Although the problem is still there. I have managed to get a new PSU btw. It costed around 37USD and and its Antec 450Watts with two fans, one on the inside and one outside and Antec say its a 120mm fan. As for the sounds its extremely quiet now. Due to the extreme quietness I managed to note another problem. The Hard Drive. Well the system works fine and the problem is that when I open a windows with lots of images and videos and scroll up and down its makes a sound. a very technical sound and a continuous sound and something moving inside it is making a sound. although before the PSU started making sounds the hard drive was working fine. Its just now that its making the sound. Please note that the sound only comes when I scroll up and down a window with lots of images and videos or a long webpage. Otherwise when I'm watching a movie its fine.

I took out everything from the system expect the processor and assembled it again. As for the casing button I don't thinnk it has a problem. I thought it did and I changed the casing few weeks ago due to the problem and the problem still persists. The Casing is made by CoolerMaster. Its not a very expensive one but its fine,

Well any further suggestions..
Waiting for a response
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December 14, 2010 at 08:04:31
A replacement PS fan (2 wire) or case fan (3 wire) with decent bearings for your original PS can cost as little as ten bucks or less.

If the PS has a fan you can see at the back of the case when the PS is installed , that one is always 80mm.

Antec makes two overall lines of PSs these days - a cheaper line that has a 1 year warranty, and a more expensive line that has a 3 year warranty - it sounds like you bought one of the former.

When you have two fans, the one on the bottom of the PS case can be 120mm, and it's usually temperature controlled - it automatically spins slower when the PS is cooler, faster when it's warmer.
The fan on the back of the PS case may or may not be temperature controlled.

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.

Check your hard drive with the manufacturer's diagnostics.
See the latter part of response 1 in this:

If you don't have a floppy drive, you can get a CD image diagnostic utility from most hard drive manufacturer's web sites, but obviously you would need to make a burned CD, preferably a CD-R for best compatibility, on another computer if you need to.

Seagate's Seatools will test any brand of hard drive.
Do the long test.

If the hard drive itself tests okay, any data problems found can be fixed, one way or another

If the hard drive itself DOES NOT test as okay, then you need to replace it.

If you used SeaTools and it's not a Seagate or a Maxtor hard drive, if you want to make a warranty claim (desktop hard drives have either a 3 or a 5 year warranty) , you must test the drive with the long test of the diagnostics provided by the hard drive brand's web site..
You must NOTE the codes or error messages generated by the long diagnostics test, then you go to the hard drive brand's web site and get a RMA (Return of Merchandise Authorization), find the packaging requirements, then ship the drive to a location they specify, or for more shipping cost, you can often have them ship a replacement drive to you, and after you receive it , you ship the orginal drive to them in the same packaging within a short time period.

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December 15, 2010 at 09:20:17
Well I replaced the hard drive.. I borrowed one from my friend. All Problems are resolved except the boot failure. When the system light flashes and turns off.

Any Help With That issue.????
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December 15, 2010 at 19:13:50
"All Problems are resolved except the boot failure. When the system light flashes and turns off."

You need to explain that better.

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December 16, 2010 at 07:46:54
As explained earlier. I switch the system power on in the morning and press the power button and the lights flashes the power light and the hard drive indicator light and also the mosue light and then in a blink of an eye they turn off. I press the power button again and it just does not respond. I switch the system power of and then on and then it boots.. This sometimes takes 3 or tries before the system boots...

and one more thing.. I have a CRT Monitor IBM E74 17" (15.9" viewable). I messed around with my settings and messed up H. Moire and V. Moire and everything now is blur. I reduced the H. Moire to 0 and it got better But not as it was before I messed it up. Then I restored the setting and the H. Moire default was 0 and V. Moire default was 49. It seems that the image is still a little blurry. Is it just me or are the setting correct and its just in my mind that the image is blur because I messed it up in the first place. Please tell me are the default settings alright. If not please tell me the correct settings to reduce the blurriness. Please do not be technical in this part of the question.
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December 16, 2010 at 09:17:39
Since you've replaced the PS....
- the most likely thing that could cause you boot problem is a poor connection of something connected to the mboard.
Make sure all connectors are all the way into their pins or into their sockets.
Make sure all ram modules and cards are all the way down in their slots.
You could try wiping off the contacts on the ram modules if you haven't already done so.
If you've checked out that those things...

Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.

Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:

Blurry = the only thing that can be on a CRT display is it's out of focus.

When you have a CRT monitor that's been used a lot, the display can get out of focus over time. I've never seen any CRT monitor that has a way of adjusting the focus via a OSD (On Screen Display) setting, or via a manual control on the front, or via a manual control at the back of the monitor that you can access from outside of the case like old TVs sometimes had.

If the display does NOT still have reasonable brightness - e.g. you can't adjust it bright enough for darker screens in a game or other video - discard the monitor - it's NOT worth fiddling with !!

If the display still has reasonable brightness, then most monitors have a manual focus control inside the case at the back that adjusts the focus.

- it can be a real puzzle to figure out how to get the back of the case off - after you have removed the screws, it's usually still firmly attached, via male and female tabs on either side, inside where you can't see them.

WARNING ! There is HIGH VOLTAGE inside the case ! It is NOT recommended that anyone except a technician who knows what he's doing ever open up a monitor's case to do the following !

- there may be TWO relatively large manual knobs for controls at the back near the flyback transformer - if so, one is for brightness, the other one is for focus. Setting the one for brightness too high can result in the tube's filaments burning out right then, or later, prematurely.

- you need to adjust the focus, or the brightness, when the monitor is ON and is displaying video - the best way is you move the control while looking at the display via a large enough mirror (at least half the size of the monitor's screen) if you're by yourself. You only move the control for focus, or brightness, a bit at a time.

- YOU NEED A SPECIAL INSULATED TOOL to turn the manual focus control, because it's near the high voltage flyback transformer for the tube, and if you were to move the control knob with your fingers, or get too close to the flyback transformer or it's cable to the outside of the tube, you are LIKELY to get a HIGH VOLTAGE JOLT ! The same special insulated tools that can be used with a CRT TV can be used with a CRT monitor - a set of them is more likely to have one that will physically work. E.g Radio Shack or some electronic parts places have the proper tools.

- the outside surface and inside surface of the outside of the tube is a giant sized capacitor ! It is STILL CHARGED UP for at least hours after the monitor has last been powered, if not longer ! DO NOT place your hands or any part of you body or any un-insulated tool you have in you hand anywhere near the large cable from the flyback transformer where it connects to the tube. DO NOT touch the rubber insulated part where the cable attaches to the tube!

- that cable and the flyback transformer and other things often have dust or lint stuck to them that lessens the cable's insulation's effectiveness . DO NOT attempt to clean that off manually ! Blowing that off with compressed air or canned air or gas meant for that purpose without getting too close with something metal is okay.

The high voltage flyback transformer and it's circuitry was originally deliberately designed to NOT be capable of producing enough current to kill a person when TVs first came out, and that probably applies to all CRT TVs made since, but I do NOT know if that applies to CRT monitors too - it probably does, but I have not been able to confirm that.

It's more likely to cause you harm from what your body does when you DO get a high voltage jolt - rapid involuntary movement of your hand or arm or both or your body otherwise.

Have you ever gotten a high voltage jolt from a spark plug wire on a vehicle? That's like the jolt you would get from the high voltage inside the monitor.
That's also been been deliberately designed for a vehicle, or any ignition system for a motor, to NOT be capable of producing enough current to kill a person.

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December 17, 2010 at 01:59:11
This is all Ok. But I asked you before not to be technical.. The monitor is fine. I just wanted to know the H. Moire and V, Moire correct settings for a 17" CRT (16" viewable) Its an IBM E74.
The Brightness is fine.
Contrast is Fine
Image is in place the only thing is I messed up the H. Moire and V. Moire settings. Then restored to factory defaults. Settings were HMoire-0 and VMoire-49. Are these correct. If not then please tell me the correct ones.

I don't think its a big issue to open the Monitor as the image is still alot in focus. Only a little blurry and the HMoire And VMoire settings will fix it.

Please respond.
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December 17, 2010 at 07:50:54
"But I asked you before not to be technical"

I always try to explain everything such that even someone who knows little about computers should be able to grasp what I'm trying to convey.

"This is all Ok."

What is all OK ?

If you mean you've checked all wiring connections, you've checked your drive data cables and their connections, you've made sure the cards and ram are all the way down in their slots, you've tried wiping off the ram contacts, and there are no signs of defective capacitors, then since you've replaced the PS and the hard drive, the only thing left is your mboard is defective, unless you have ram problems you're not aware of.

Some ram manufacturer's modules do not strictly adhere to the JEDEC standards that most mboards bioses use to determine ram settings.
In that case, the ram settings in the bios Setup that the bios has automatically chosen may not be correct.
Check the ram settings in your bios - the ram voltage, and the ram timing numbers - those should be the same as for the specs for the modules themselves. Often the ram voltage and timing numbers are printed on the label on the modules.

If the voltage setting or timings settings in the bios are different from the specs for the ram, change them in the bios. The timing numbers must be as close as you can get to the same, or slower timings (higher numbers = slower) - you won't notice the difference the slower settings make.

If you have a mix of different modules
- don't mix ram that different voltages are specified for - the bios will force the ram to use the lowest voltage, if "by spd" or similar is used (default settings) - ram that a higher voltage is specified for is more likely to not work properly in that situation.
- the bios settings must be those for the slowest timing settings of all the modules, or slower (higher numbers = slower).

Once you've made sure the settings in the bios are correct for your ram, run a ram diagnostics test.

I recommend this one.

Windows Memory Diagnostic:
Windows Memory Diagnostic is limited to testing only the first 4 gigabytes (GB) of RAM.
It can be toggled (press T) to do a standard or a more comprehensive set of tests - use the default 6 test one first - if it passes one pass of that, use the latter one. A few of the tests in the latter set are intentionally slower.
If you don't have a floppy drive, see the Quick Start Information at that Microsoft link for how to make a bootable CD of the Windows Memory Diagnostic (you need Windiag.iso - you don't necessarily need to use the program they mention to add it to the CD).

If your ram passes the long set of tests, then the only thing left is your mboard is defective, probably because it was damaged.

If your display is always blurry no matter how you set settings, then you have a focus problem.
If it's NOT blurry when you set it to certain settings, then it's NOT a focus problem.

Your monitor model was first released 29 Feb 2000 - it may be as old as that.
There may be a date on the back of it.

Old CRT monitors are a lot more likely to not longer work correctly.

NOTE that default settings in your OSD settings frequently get out out of whack as time goes by.

Info E74

User's guides

Neither of them have any info about default moire settings.

Search the web using: adjust moire on monitor , or similar.


Explanation on moiré patterns in CRT monitors.

Adjust moire

If you can't get a reasonable result, that can be a symptom of dried out electrolytic capacitors

faulty monitor display - what is wrong??

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December 19, 2010 at 08:16:26
ALL problems solved.. Thanks for your help Tubesandwires .
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December 19, 2010 at 08:27:25
We're glad to hear you solved your problems !

What was it that fixed the system start up problem ?

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December 20, 2010 at 02:25:41
Well it turns out that the power cable that went into the wall socket had a problem. The wire which is attached to the silver thingy or shoe which goes into the socket (sorry don't know what's its called) was lose. It's a very old wire. I just replaced it.
This fixed the issue.

Can you please help me with 1 more thing.
please visit my post

Hoping you respond to the other post.
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December 20, 2010 at 09:42:48
Thanks alot tubesandwires.
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