|"There were some errors when installing and one was the keyboard ps2.cab and I skipped it because I didn't have it."|
It's on the XP CD.
You should get NO ERRORS AT ALL when reading files from the CD during Setup.
If you DO / DID, something was not right - see BELOW
If the second Repair choice is still there when you boot from the Windows CD, you could try again.
If ain't there, you're going to have to copy files off of it your client does not want to lose to somewhere, and run Setup from scratch, copy them back.
or - if it's a brand name system if you (your client) have/has the Recovery disk(s), (Ya, right, in many cases) re-load the original siftware.)
You don't need to be concerned about things you can install again because you (or your client) has the installation disk(s), or things you can easily download from the web again.
"XP Home was installed and I think MCE should be XP Pro."
XP MCE is essentially the same as XP Pro except it has a few Pro features most people don't use omitted, plus it has the major Media Center program group and a lot more multi-media related support. The OEM MCE is a set on two CDs, not one.
If you use the OEM MCE 2 CD set to install it, there are bugs in it's Setup that were in the first version (MCE 2002) that have never been fixed in newer versions, such as MCE 2005, the currently available version.
When you get through about 2/3 of the way loading files from the first CD and setting up Windows, it asks you to insert another CD, but the title of it is WRONG. Insert the second CD at that point. It will load files from the second CD for a while, then it asks you to insert another CD, but the title of it is ALSO WRONG. Insert the first CD at that point, and Setup will finish successfully.
If you get confused about what CD Setup is asking for and Skip loading files from the second CD, or Skip loading files from the first CD the second time, MCE is not installed properly!! You must start Setup over again, from scratch, and do it the right way!
"PS: I still call it a repair install LOL...."
Many people do, but it still Peeves me to hear that.
If the second Repair choice is still there when you boot from the Windows CD, you could try again. BUT - nothing should go wrong during Setup - if you can't complete Setup, and quit it, the existing Windows installtion will be trashed ! The second Repair choice in Setup will probably NOT be there when you try booting with the CD again !.
Errors reading from the CD can be caused by.....
1. Small amount of ram errors, or ram that is not 100% compatible with using it in the mboard.
A common thing that can happen with ram, even ram that worked fine previously, is the ram has, or has developed, a poor connection in it's slot(s).
This usually happens a long time after the ram was installed, but it can happen with new ram, or after moving the computer case from one place to another, and I've had even new modules that needed to have their contacts cleaned.
See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
If you do a ram test, do that AFTER having tried cleaning the contacts and making sure the ram is seated properly - otherwise any errors found may be FALSE.
If the ram is incompatible with the chipset, or on more recent computers, incompatible with the memory controller built into the cpu, it will likely FAIL a ram test - that is NOT a true indication of the ram being faulty - there is probably nothing wrong with it, and it will pass the test if installed in a mboard it is compatible with.
NOTE: Sometimes incompatible modules (or matched pairs) won't work properly when more than one is installed, but will pass when by itself.
If you want to try a memory diagnostic utility that takes a lot less time to run a full pass than memtest86 does, this one is pretty good - Microsoft's
Windows Memory Diagnostic:
It can be toggled (press T) to do a standard or a more comprehensive set of tests - use the default 6 test one first - if it passes one pass of that, use the latter one. A few of the tests in the latter set are intentionally slower.
If you don't have a floppy drive, see the Quick Start Information at that Microsoft link for how to make a bootable CD of the Windows Memory Diagnostic (you need Windiag.iso - you don't necessarily need to use the program they mention to add it to the CD).
If you DO get ram errors.....
Unplug the computer /PS
If it's a laptop remove it's AC Adapter and main battery.
Remove the ram and find the brand and part number, post it here.
Either the brand name system maker's part number, or the ram manufacturer's part number .
Or - you could look those up yourself on the brand's web site to see is they are listed for the model, by searching using the system or mboard model .
2. A problem the drive is having reading the CD.
- make sure the CD is clean and free of major scratches
- if it's a copy, a CD-R or DVD-R should work fine in almost any drive that can read CDs or DVDs, but other types of burned disks may NOT read properly in a drive they were not made in.
E.g. if it's a CD-RW that was not made in the drive, copy the entire disk (e.g. use disk at once or similar) to a CD-R in a burner drive that has no problem reading the CD-RW disk.
- try cleaning the laser lens.
(I always do that when installing something important.)
On a desktop, use a laser lens cleaning CD in the drive. drive. If you don't have one, most places that sell CDs or DVDs have them - some "dollar" stores have them for a buck or two.
On a laptop, usually you can easily clean the laser lens when the tray is ejected and there is no disk on the tray.
- ckeck the drive's data cable.
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
- the drive may be defective.
If it's a desktop computer and it has more than one optical drive, try another one. (different from the one that had problems in your case)
However, many bioses will only boot an optical disk from one optical drive.
If the disk is not detected while booting ......
Go into the bios Setup and find the list of optical drives.
It's often near the Boot Order settings or similar.
The drive you want to boot a bootable disk from must be first in the list. Save bios settings.
If you don't see a separate list, look in the Boot Order or similar list. The drive you want to boot a bootable disk from must be first in the list. Save bios settings.
- if the desktop computer has only one optical drive, try another one if you can.