|"HP Pavilion Slimline s3020n"|
I troubleshooted a friend's same model as yours a couple of weeks ago. The situation with that one was it would not boot at all.
Eventually I found the problem - failing capacitors in the PS.
Apparently, this is a common problem with the s3xxx series in general.
Failing power supplies often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.
Open up the PS box. Look for failed capacitors. You may need to cut wiring ties in order to be able to see all of them. If you see failed capacitors, you need to replace the power supply.
The following is about defective electrolytic capacitors on mboards - failing or dead power supplies often have the same problem.
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.
Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
If you do have one or more defective capacitors, use the HP part number that's on it's stuck on label on the PS on the web to search for replacement PSs that will fit for sure inside your case. They are available in the same meagre capacity, or you can get ones that have up to 300 watts capacity for a bit more money.
It's NOT a sure thing to try repairing the PS by replacing the failing or failed capacitors. All capacitors that have the same brand markings as the one(s) that failed should be replaced, because they're just as likely to fail in the future, and even if you do replace them, the PS may already be otherwise damaged, and you may still not have a properly working PS.
If you have, or think you might install in the future, a PCI-E video card in the PCI-E slot, get a 300 watt PS. There are some, but not many, video chipsets on small form factor cards that will work fine if your system has a 300 watt PS, but very few that will work in the long run without the PS failing eventually with a lesser PS capacity.
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
There were no signs of failing capacitors on it's mboard.
I wanted to be sure the problem was not the mboard or something connected to it before I ordered a new PS, so I rigged up a custom made wiring adapter so that I could hook up a regular standard sized ATX PS to the system.
The system works fine with that !
If you want details about how I rigged up that wiring adapter,
See response 1 in this, particularly the last part (scroll down). (Your mboard has the MINI 24 pin main power connector socket.)
"i bent the pins on my cpu while trying to remove it and put it back in."
That was completely un-necessary, if the cpu worked fine previously, the cpu fan still works fine, no one has been fiddling with installing it in the past, and if the heat sink was still clamped to the mboard.
That is one of the least likely things that could have been wrong.
The heat sink is often firmly bonded to the cpu, as if it were crazy glued , and in that case you can't release the cpu socket's lever - you have no choice but to pull the heat sink / cpu assembly out of the cpu socket, possibly bending or breaking off the cpu's pins in the process, or damaging the cpu socket.
What you are supposed to do is to try breaking the bond by unclamping the heat sink, then pressing straight down towards the cpu socket really hard, while twisting the cpu back and forth, but that may not work, especially if thermal compound was used (thermal compound often hardens as time goes by and the bond then can't be broken ).
If you separated the heat sink from the cpu, you must have one of a thermal pad or thermal compound or thermal grease between the bottom of the heat sink and the top of the cpu when you re-install the heat sink. If it had a thermal pad (straight lines at the edges where the pad was) you must scrape off the thermal pad remains on both sides and replace it with another thermal pad (hard to find) or thermal compound or thermal grease (easy to find). I recommend thermal grease because it never hardens - translucent, whitish, almost clear when in a very thin layer - silicon compound with nothing added to it.