New gaming PC suddenly gets no signal to monitor.

June 20, 2020 at 22:45:47
Specs: Windows 10, 3.59
I recently bought a new gaming PC, been having it for like 3-4 months now with no issues at all. But one day i restarted my pc and my monitor got no signal out of nowhere after it tried to boot up. Been trying all kinds of different methods to solve my problem. But for some reason when i leave my pc off for a while like 30 minutes to 1 hour and try to boot it up again, it then goes to American Megatrends, i press F1 and i'm in bios. I save & exit, the pc restarts, the monitor gets signal again and it goes back to windows, everything is normal. And next time i restart my pc the problem comes back again. What is causing it?

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#1
June 20, 2020 at 23:03:30
Sounds like BIOS detects a change in hardware.
Any other message displayed on the "Press F1 ....." screen?
Like; memory has changed? or Checksum does not match...., Battery low..... etc.

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#2
June 21, 2020 at 02:35:19
Is this new computer under warranty? If so contact the vendor and request assistance, even a replacement computer. That’s what warranties are for?

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#3
June 21, 2020 at 06:33:12
I have no idea if this is relevant or not but i downloaded https://sourceforge.net/projects/eq... which is pretty popular, the problem did occur after this required a restart after installing, maybe this is the culprit behind the problem?

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#4
June 21, 2020 at 08:40:12
It sounds like you have a hardware problem, not a software problem. We need to know the make/model of the computer. If it's a custom build, we need the complete system specs in detail. Your problem may be due to overheating or a weak/cheap power supply (PSU). When posting the PSU specs, please post the make/model & amperage specs if possible. Wattage alone isn't useful.

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#5
June 21, 2020 at 09:36:58
Radeon RX 580 Series
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6 Core
ASUS Prime B450M-A
Be Quiet! 600W
Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB

It is custom built.

I don't know what else to put.


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#6
June 21, 2020 at 09:40:33
Like rider I’m suspicious about cause and that it’s possibly hardware related.

Two areas come to mind. One is RAM..., t’other is the PSU.

With all power removed I.e. disconnect the power cord... remove RAM sticks and clean their edge connectors. Use a soft pencil style eraser - nothing at all abrasive. Wipe the edges clean afterwards with a soft listless cloth, or a soft tissue.

Insert one stick into a socket on the motherboard firmly. Remove the stick, wipe clean with soft tissue, and firmly re-insert the stick. Remove, wipe edge connector again as above, the re-install firmly. Restore power and see if system boots ok - with one stick.

Then clean second stick as above and again with power removed replace first stick with second and re-install it two/three times as above; then restore power and see if problem persists.

Then re-install the first/other stick, again with power removed, and then restore power and boot up.

Why re-install each stick two/three times? To clean the onboard sockets. And “firmly” re-inserting the sticks ensures they are making good and secure contact within the onboard sockets.

If the system boots with one stick and not the other, suspect that stick. If it doesn’t boot properly with either stick, then I’d be inclined to look at the PSU..

Remember to disconnect the power cord completely before removing from, or re-insetting components into, any computer. And with a laptop - remove its battery too.

The symptoms you describe nonetheless suggest an issue with the PSU, rather than RAM. But useful to eliminate RAM first?

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#7
June 21, 2020 at 10:11:45
I just tried to restart the PC, and the problem did not occur, i disabled XMP and Quick startup in windows because i looked in to some other forums and people said that quick startup could make these kind of problems, and i removed the software i downloaded. Gonna continue to troubleshoot.

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#8
June 21, 2020 at 11:43:27
Keep us informed on your progress?

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#9
June 21, 2020 at 12:10:59
Can't find any detailed specs on that power supply. That in itself is not encouraging.

Before you open the case be sure you are not going to void your warranty by doing so. If you have the tower sitting on carpet, you can accumulate lots of dust in just a few months. If opening the case is OK to do, do so and blow out the case, including the power supply, from both ends.


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#10
June 21, 2020 at 12:24:54
be quiet! is a German PSU manufacturer.
https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply

Check your system temps & do a load test.
https://www.ocbase.com/


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#11
June 21, 2020 at 14:08:08
A typical fault with many PSU in the days when they were much bigger physically was the leaking of smoothing capacitors (condensers as we called in days of yore) in the PSU ac-dc output. They would have a slight leakage and thus volts out wouldn't be sufficient to do whatever. But nonetheless they warmed/heated up a little - enough to seal that leak during those few brief moments before one powered down... Switching on again - even as long as 30mins later those resealed capacitors now performed OK and all seemed to be normal... Those now temporarily sealed capacitor(s) didn't leak, and thus could to do their job properly - and volts out were OK. Leave the PSU to cool down a fair while meant the capacitors also cooled down and the leak began afresh. Typically this might be overnight of course... and the whole leak process/reseal would be repeated when the system was next powered up...

Even with modern mostly solid state PSU - there are capacitors; and they can and do leak...

Cheap build electronics often use cheap components, poor quality etc.. Some possibly even using normally high quality items - rejected as not "quite" upto par but "maybe " OK in some situations; and thus sold off cheaply to whomever.

If there's a transformer involved in the PSU that too can be substandard; cost cutting not the least...

Over the many years I've been here on CN I've noted numerous incidences of substandard PSU at lot. And several of the hardware gurus here frequently discover the PSU in question is either poor quality, or wrong specifications; and simply inadequate for the job it's supposed to do.

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#12
June 21, 2020 at 20:00:44
If it was an older computer I'd say it was a bad motherboard battery but something that new shouldn't have that problem yet. If it's still under warranty take it back and let them fix it.

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#13
June 22, 2020 at 07:51:03
I honestly think disabling quick startup on windows fixed my problem/disabled XMP, i've done stress tests, restarted the pc multiple times, the temps are normal.

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#14
June 22, 2020 at 08:04:04
Let's hope you're right; and as you say others found that to be a solution. But keep a weather eye on the system whilst under warranty - just in-case?

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#15
June 22, 2020 at 08:20:04
Of course, if the problem occur again i will probably go the the store i bought it from to look at it.

Thanks for feeding me ideas on what could've been the problem, appreciate it.


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