New Custom PC won't post (no beeps )

February 21, 2010 at 00:44:46
Specs: Windows XP sp2 , Intel Dual 2 core 2.93Ghz/Kingston 2x 1 GB DDR2
Hi all, i've updating my pc i bought a new motherboard, 2 gb memory ram, 1 CPU and 1 power supply, i still need to buy a new graphic card hd compatible with my mboard, so i have to use the motherboard to connect the monitor.
Today i fit everything as it have to be set on the modo but when i started it, hdd, cd/dvd, fans, cpu fan seem to turn on but i got no video and no beeps, i was reading threats about this issues in the internet so i did all advices listed all over, such as;
1.Disconnect all devices from the system except for the ATX connector/ results; no beeps, no image.

2.Disconnect all devices from the system except for
1 RAM and CPU/ results; no beeps, no image.

3.Disconnect all devices from the system except for
CPU/ results; no beeps, no image.

I dont't undestand what's going on with this issue, before installed everything i connected 1 cable on my hand that was touching a metal on the window of my house to prevent damage on devices, i wonder if any of you know anything about this issue. Thnks

my PC
Motherboard; Asrock G31m-s
Proccesor;Intel Dual 2 core 2.93Ghz
RAM; Kingston 2x 1 GB DDR2
PSU; Diablotek 400w


See More: New Custom PC wont post (no beeps )

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#1
February 21, 2010 at 01:42:28
Pull the motherboard out and connect cpu, ram(single stick),psu, monitor &keyboard now start the system.

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#2
February 21, 2010 at 09:55:17
"Pull the motherboard out and connect cpu, ram(single
stick),psu, monitor &keyboard now start the system. "

I just did that but the problem continue, no beeps, no video.
Will it be the motherboard or CPU?


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#3
February 21, 2010 at 10:23:27
i suspect the motherboard.

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Related Solutions

#4
February 21, 2010 at 10:52:49
But it COULD also be the cpu or psu. Did you apply a small amount of thermal paste and connect the cpu securely to the motherboard ? What specific cpu is it and is it compatible with the motherboard ?

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#5
February 21, 2010 at 11:47:20
Did you properly install any metal mounting posts ONLY where the there are holes in the mboard for screws to pass through that attach it to the metal case, if the mounting surface does not have raised integral bumps for that ??

If you are re-using a case, did you make sure there are no existing metal mounting posts under the mboard where there are no holes for screws in the mboard ?

Did you unplug the case/power supply, or otherwise switch off the AC to the power supply, at ALL times when you were plugging in or unplugging the card(s) or ram or wiring connections ?
If you didn't do that at ALL times, ATX mboards are always powered in some places, including some contacts in the slots, even when the computer is not running, as long as the power supply is receiving live AC power (and is switched on, if it has a switch) - you may have damaged something ! !

"....my hand that was touching a metal on the window of my house to prevent damage on devices, ..."

If the metal framed window is in a wood framed wall, or if it is in a metal framed wall but the windows are mounted on plastic tracks, it may NOT be grounded !

Static electricity discharges are generally not a problem, unless you have the computer in a room that has wall to wall carpeting made of synthetic firbres (any carpet with cotton in it dissapates - nullifys - static electricity), and the relative humidity in the room is too low, which can easily happen in the seasons when the outside temp is below freezing and the heating is on, especially if your heating is via hot water or coolant rather forced air (e.g. an apartment) .

If you are concerned about static electricity discharges, if you switch off whatever the computer is plugged into, such as a power bar, rather than unplugging it, the computer is still grounded when the AC power is switched off, assuming there is a continuous grounded connection all the way back to your power panel as there is supposed to be.
.........

You can't hear mboard beeps unless a (computer case) speaker is connected to certain pins on the mboard, or unless there is a built in speaker like device built into the mboard (very rare for newer mboards). Some new mboards come with a small speaker like piezo device you can connect to pins for a (computer case) speaker on the mboard.

Try this - I'm assuming you have everything connected properly ....

Make sure you have a speaker or speakers or the equivalent connected to the mboard so you can hear mboard beeps (see your mboard manual if you need to).
Remove the AC power to the case/power supply.
Remove all the ram.
Restore AC power.
Try to boot.
If nothing else is wrong, you will get no video but you will hear a pattern of beeps that indicate no ram is installed, or a ram problem.
E.g. for an Award bios or a bios based on one, that's often a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.

If you still hear no beeps....

- if you did NOT remove the live AC power at ALL times when you were fiddling with plugging in or unplugging components or wiring connectors, you may have damaged the power supply or the mboard or components installed on the mboard.

If you can borrow a PS from a working desktop computer, try that.

- did you confirm that the cpu that is installed is in the cpu compatibility list for your model on the Asrock web site ??
http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.asp?Mo...
That list shows you whether the model must have some minimum bios version or higher in order to support the cpu. In some cases, if the specific ios version the mboard presently has isn't high enough to support recognizing the cpu you are trying to use, the mboard will NOT boot when that cpu isinstalled - in that case you have to flash the bios to a newer version when a cpu the present bios version does work fine with is installed - THEN the cpu you want to use will work.

- did you connect the 3 or 4 pin female wiring connector from the cpu fan to the proper cpu fan header ??

- all new and more recent mboards require that you connect female wiring connectors from the power supply to TWO sockets on the mboardsurface - the main 20 or 24 "pin" one, and a smaller one elsewhere on the mboard. Did you connect BOTH of them ?
......

If you DID hear the beeps for no ram installed or a ram problem, it could be the ram was not properly seated, or, you may have bought ram that is NOT compatible with using it in your mboard, which is COMMON these days !

See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

If that doesn't help....

Ram that works in another mboard , or any ram you buy or have lying around, may not work properly, or sometimes, not at all - even if it physically fits and is the right overall type (e.g. SDram, DDR, DDR2, etc.; PCxxxx, xxx mhz) for your mboard. In the worst cases of incompatibilty your mboard WILL NOT BOOT all the way with it installed, and the mboard may not even beep - the ram has to be compatible with the mboard's main chipset, or in the case of recent mboards, compatible with the memory controller built into the cpu.

See response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
Correction to that:
Mushkin www.mushkin.com

Once you know which module ID strings work in your mboard, you can get them from anywhere you like that has ram with those ID strings.

If you have brand name ram, it is usually easy to look up whether it's ID string is in a list of compatible modules found by using your mboard or brand name system model number.
If the ram is generic, that may be difficult or impossible.
.....



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#6
February 21, 2010 at 12:02:54
I didn't applied thermal paste because it seem that the
heatsink comes with some source of paste, in fact it looks
like thermal paste.
yes i did make sure to connect the cpu securely to the
mboard.
PROCESSOR
Intel Dual 2 core 2.93Ghz
FSB 1066 mhz
Socket LGA 775, E 7500.

MOTHERBOARD
Asrock G31m-s
Intel G31 = ICH7 chipsets
FBS 1600 mhz
LGA 775
Support Intel core 2 duo and Intel core 2 quad.

When bought the SPU was set 230 V, so i put it to 115 V.
last time when i was in other country i tried to use 230 V
and it burned the cables, so i thought it could happend agian.

What's the difference between 230 V and 115 V?


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#7
February 21, 2010 at 15:53:54
"When bought the SPU was set 230 V, so i put it to 115 V.
last time when i was in other country i tried to use 230 V
and it burned the cables, so i thought it could happend agian.

What's the difference between 230 V and 115 V? "

What's a SPU? Do you mean a PSU or PS - power supply?

That's the AC voltage setting. It has to be set to whatever the AC voltage is at your location where you're using the computer. If you bought the power supply locally in your country or from a place somewhere in your country online, it was probably already set to the correct voltage when you got it!
What country are you in ?
If the AC voltage there is 230 volts, you could try unplugging the power supply and setting the PS to 230 volts, but you may have already fried the mboard and/or the power supply!


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#8
February 21, 2010 at 21:07:18
Hi, thanks for replay.
-Yes im re-using the same case. the new mboard got the
same dimentions as the old one(24 cm x 19 cm). I didn't
have to add or remove integral bumps, there are 6 just right
in the holes.

-Every time im gonna move or do something inside the
mboard i always make sure to switch off the AC and unplug
the cable power supply.

-The windows is made of metal, there is no wood or plastic
around. Althought im always afraid of Static electricity
discharges because for some reason when the weather is
cold my body seem to make electric shocks when i touch
metal stuff for the first time in awhile, specially the car's
door.

-in the mboard there is a place where there are some pins
that says "speaker" i guess this is where i need to connect
the case speaker cable.

- I connected the female wiring connector from the cpu fan to
the proper cpu fan header. It most be the one that is just
next to the processor chipset.

-I connect the other 4 pin (plus 24)from the SP to the mboard
as you said but the problem continue.

-i don't think its can be a problem of motherboard CPU or
RAM compatibility. as you can see they all match. Before i
bought all parts i make sure they were compatible. my pc
references are listed above, can you check, may be im
missing something.

PSU= power Supply Unit.

I live in Florida but before i was living in Colombia. there was
where i burned the cables from the SPU. A technician told
me that few countries were allow to use 230 V.

So the problem continue, i've tried many ways but the results
is always the same, No video, No Beeps, althought all fan
can turn on and hdd,cd and dvd make some boot sounds.
the problem now is that i don't know what part can be
damage, CPU, MBoard,SPU,RAMS?
i still can return and change those items but i need to know
which part is it.

Thanks.



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#9
February 22, 2010 at 10:16:39
The problem is solved, It was the SPU voltage settiing, It has
to be ste at 230 V. plus the 4 pin female cable need to be
connecte to the mboard.
But now im facing other problems.


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#10
February 22, 2010 at 11:56:13
"The problem is solved, It was the SPU voltage settiing, It has
to be ste at 230 V."

Ok then, it's good hear you got the computer working, obviously wherever the computer is now has 230 volt AC as a standard voltage, but...

115 volt AC power is standard in North America, at least in Canada and US it is, but in many other places it's 230 volts you get from the commonest AC wall plug-ins you have in buildings - that might be the situation in Columbia - it certainly is in Great Britain, Australia, and most places in Europe. 230 volts is standard in Canadaand the US ONLY for things that require more power than a 115 volt 15 amp, or 20 amp for some dishwashers, standard circuit can provide - e.g. electric stoves, electric dryers, welders, motors > 1 hp., etc, but they are not as common - there are only two larger sockets for them at most in most residences, one for a stove, one for a dryer, the plug required is much bigger than standard, or you may find one in a garage, etc. that is 230 volts, that is the same larger socket type or another socket configuration. The standard 115 volt AC plug will not work physically in a 230 volt socket, unless some idiot used the wrong socket.

PSU or PS, not SPU !

"...plus the 4 pin female cable need to be
connecte to the mboard."

Yes, of course, as I pointed out in Response 5......

"- all new and more recent mboards require that you connect female wiring connectors from the power supply to TWO sockets on the mboardsurface - the main 20 or 24 "pin" one, and a smaller one elsewhere on the mboard. Did you connect BOTH of them ? "


"-Yes im re-using the same case. the new mboard got the
same dimentions as the old one(24 cm x 19 cm). I didn't
have to add or remove integral bumps, there are 6 just right
in the holes."

The most common mboards these days are, and for at least ten years or so have been, either a standard ATX physical board size, larger, rectangular, which is what yours is, or a standard mATX size (micro ATX) board size, smaller, square or close to it. The holes for screws to pass through the mboard to fasten it are in specified standard locations, but sometimes not all the locations for the screw holes are used on a particular mboard, so a metal mounting post for a previous mboard may not be needed, and if present when it doesn't need to be there, it can short things on the underside of the mboard, quite easily.

"I didn't applied thermal paste because it seem that the
heatsink comes with some source of paste, in fact it looks
like thermal paste."

Heat sinks often come with a thermal pad attached to the bottom of the heat sink. It's a thermal material in a uniform thickness with definite straight edges. You peel off a plastic or paper protective sheet just before you install it on the cpu - did you remove that protective sheet ?

"FSB 1066 mhz"

You have DDR2 1066mhz ram installed.

We've frequently heard that people often have some tiouble with getting 1066mhz ram to work properly.
Usually that problem is related to the following:

Some ram manufacturer's modules do not strictly adhere to the JEDEC standards that most mboards bioses use to determine ram settings.
In that case, the ram settings in the bios Setup that the bios has automatically chosen may not be correct.
Check the ram settings in your bios - the ram voltage, and the ram timing numbers - those should be the same as for the specs for modules themselves. Often the ram voltage and timing numbers are printed on the label on the modules.

If the voltage setting or timings settings in the bios are different from the specs for the ram, change them in the bios. The timing numbers must be as close as you can get to the same, or slower timings (higher numbers = slower) - you won't notice the difference the slower settings make.

If you have a mix of different modules
- don't mix ram that different voltages arespecified for - the bios will force the ram to use the lowest voltage, if "by spd" or similar is used (default settings) - ram that a higher voltage is specified for is more likely to not work properly in that situation.
- the bios settings must be those for the slowest timing settings of all the modules, or slower (higher numbers = slower).
.........

Other than those things....

"But now im facing other problems. ..."

Describe your problems in detail !


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#11
February 22, 2010 at 14:22:21
".....i still need to buy a new graphic card hd compatible with my mboard,..."

"PSU; Diablotek 400w "

Your power supply must have at least the minumum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer.....
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittant rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.


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#12
February 22, 2010 at 16:28:24
Ok i can get into the BIOS, i can see the floppy cd and dvd
in the "boot" option but i can't see the hard drive.

in "Advanced" >IDE Configuration, says that >SATA II_1(2,3
& 4) is Not Detected;
>IDE1 is enhanced with ATAIP CDROM.

Since mostly new mboard use SATA connector for HDD and
i using an old HDD that has a IDE connector, i had to buy a
IDE to SATA adapter.

Will this be the reason for this problem?

It seems that my pc haven't detected my HDD, everytime i
reboot it show me this message;

Mother Board modek is G31m-s.
This model not in current CD serial ATA support list
Please use correct support Cd to try again.
Reboot system now
Press any key to continue.

Thnks.


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#13
February 22, 2010 at 20:11:47
"....but i can't see the hard drive."

"Since mostly new mboard use SATA connector for HDD and
i using an old HDD that has a IDE connector, i had to buy a
IDE to SATA adapter."

Did you buy the right adapter? Some of them can only be used one way - in that case it must be one for using an IDE drive connected to a SATA header.

A guy who started a Topic here recently had a similar problem - all that was wrong was the adapter or the data cable that connected to it was loose - his was the opposite -for connecting a SATA drive to an an IDE header on the mboard.
Remove or switch off the AC power to the case, and check your connections for the adapter and it's data cable. Did you remember to plug in the power connector to the IDE drive?

On the other hand....

You have at least one IDE header. If you have only one optical drive, why didn't you connect the IDE hard drive to the same 3 connector data cable as the IDE DVD drive? The IDE drive cannot run any faster when connected via the adapter to a SATA header anyway - no faster than 133mbps burst speed - same as the max when connected to the IDE header.

Having it on the same IDE data cable as the DVD drive will NOT make the hard drive run slower - that's a common myth - the cpu accesses the drives one at a time.
Recent IDE DVD burner drives must be connected to an 80 wire data cable, the same for any hard drive capable of UDMA 66 or more (one made since about 1999). .

"This model not in current CD serial ATA support list"

???
It doesn't recognize the adapter, or there's something iffy about it's connection. ???

Do you have a CD in the DVD drive you haven't told me about?



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#14
February 23, 2010 at 08:40:25
Hello, well finally i could install windows on my new pc.
It seem that the IDE to SATA adapter isn't complatible so im
using the same cable for the cd rom and HDD.
I learned many things in this proscces, i really appreciate the
help that this forum gives me.
The new graphic card will arrived tomorrow so my new pc will
be really to play "Men of WAR" (highly recommended) and i
also will buy a new HDD as the old one will be for back up
files.
Thnks for share your knowlege.


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#15
February 23, 2010 at 11:21:10
It's good to hear you got the IDE drive on the mboard IDE header to work.

"The new graphic card will arrived tomorrow ..."

Make sure your 400 watt PS capacity is enough.
See Response 11.
........

If your XP CD does not have SP3 updates included.....

See Response 6
http://www.computing.net/answers/wi...
starting at
"If your XP CD does not have SP3 updates included, the best time to load them is right after you have installed Windows from scratch...."
.......

"...i also will buy a new HDD...."

If the new hard drive is > 137gb manufacturer's size, when you install XP on it from the CD, the XP CD must have SP1 or later updates included on it in order for the drive to be recognized as it's full size in Setup and in Windows. If it has SP2 or SP3 updates included, SP2 or SP3 is printed on the CD. All regular XP CDs I've seen do NOT have SP1 printed on them when they have SP1 updates included, but you can search using the volume label - the label you see in My Computer or Windows Explorer for the XP CD - on the web to determine whether the CD has SP1 updates or no SP updates at all.
........

I recommend that you make at least TWO partitions on any hard drive that you install Windows on when you install from a regular XP CD , especially if it's the only hard drive.

How to make more than one partition on a drive using Setup and Disk Management in XP....
See Response 3:
http://www.computing.net/answers/wi...

You DO NOT have to install all programs on C - you can almost always choose to install anything that didn't come with Windows on another partition, by NOT choosing an Express install method or similar, and/or by changing the location where the prgogram is installed (e.g. change just the drive letter at the beginning to that of another partition).


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