New build, powers on and that's about it.

Intel Dx58so motherboard
September 11, 2009 at 09:14:38
Specs: No OS yet
Building my first computer.

Intel DX58SO Motherboard
Intel Core i7 Processor
6GB OCZ DDR3 PC3 12800 8-8-8 @1.65v
BFG GeForce 6600 PCI-e graphics card
BFG 1000w Power Supply
Antec 900 Case

Finally got all my parts and put it together. Pretty easy to do, except I've never installed a heat sink on top of a processor before, so using the thermal compound was new to me.

Anyways, powers on, lights come on, all fans spin, no beeps, hard drive spins, and absolutely nothing on the screen. My monitor briefly comes on then goes off cuz it doesn't detect a signal.

Things I've tried:

Swapped the memory chips.
Swapped the video card with an old PCI card (same result).
Triple checked all my power connections.

So what could I have possibly missed?

Could I have put too much Thermal Compound?

Is 1000w PS not enough?

HELP!

Mike


See More: New build, powers on and thats about it.

Report •


#1
September 11, 2009 at 09:39:40
check the cmos battery...try re-inserting it...

Windows XP user

i would appreciate if everybody that has received help from me to say if my suggestions works


Report •

#2
September 11, 2009 at 10:19:18
"using the thermal compound was new to me"

OK, so how did you do it? You *should* have place a very thin line of paste down the center of the CPU & it has to oriented correctly so that it's in-line with the CPU cores, not perpendicular to them. See the following, lower right:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_rou...

"BFG GeForce 6600 PCI-e graphics card"

Considering the rest of your components are fairly high end/state of the art, why did you choose such a low end/outdated video card?

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.p...


Report •

#3
September 11, 2009 at 10:52:48
darko:

I'll pull the battery wen I get home later this evening. Should I keep it out 4 a
certain amount of time or just pop it out & place it bak in?

Jam:

Umm...yeah. I definitely did not use a single line of that thermal stuff on my
processor. A Geek Squad Agent directed me 2 paint a good layer of that stuff
over the whole processor. I'm assuming aftr placing the heatsink ontop, it
could have oozed over the edge of the processor.

I'm using the 6600 card cuz I can't afford a new one yet, so my friend gave
me his old pair of cards 2 use in the mean time.

Mike


Report •

Related Solutions

#4
September 11, 2009 at 11:02:31
"I'm assuming aftr placing the heatsink ontop, it could have oozed over the edge of the processor"

If you use too much, it prevents the heat transfer from the CPU to the heatsink...the CPU overheats & the system shuts down.

Do NOT pull the battery! Just pull the heatsink, remove ALL the excess paste & make 100% sure it's re-applied according to the directions I linked to. If it doesn't boot after that, THEN we can discuss other possibilities.

And don't listen to the Geek Squad!


Report •

#5
September 11, 2009 at 11:11:02
Jam:

Is the thermal compound easy 2 wipe off or should I use alcohol or sumthin?


Report •

#6
September 11, 2009 at 11:28:16
you take out the battery and keep it out for about 1 minute with power cord unplugged

Windows XP user

i would appreciate if everybody that has received help from me to say if my suggestions works...

working hard for a medal...


Report •

#7
September 11, 2009 at 11:38:03
Do NOT pull the battery! Follow Jam's instructions.

There is no indication of a bios or cmos problem.


Report •

#8
September 11, 2009 at 11:52:50
"Is the thermal compound easy 2 wipe off or should I use alcohol or sumthin?"

Wipe off the top of the CPU & bottom of the heatsink as best you can with a paper towel. Then clean them with either alcohol or acetone & a lint free cloth. Once they're clean, do NOT touch them with your fingers. Fingerprints contain dirt, dead skins cells, skin oil, etc which can reduce the efficiency of the thermal transfer between the CPU & heatsink. Once they're both clean & dry, apply the paste as per the posted instructions.


Report •

#9
September 11, 2009 at 11:57:03
"check the cmos battery...try re-inserting it..."

That has NOTHING to do with your problem.
A dead or too weak cmos battery, or one that has a poor connection or is backwards in it's socket, cannot make your mboard not boot if there's nothing else wrong.
The mboard should boot fine even if there is no cmos battery installed if there's nothing else wrong. However, you would get a "Cmos Checksum Error" or similar message in that case, and have to go into the bios and set at least the date and time.
.....

There are several common mistakes people have made when they have assembled a new system and it doesn't boot normally.

- you MUST remove the AC power source to the power supply when it has been connected to the mboard whenever you connect anything to the mboard or to the PS or make any changes to connections to the mboard or to the PS, and when you plug in or unplug ram or cards in mboard slots!!

If you didn't do that at ALL times, something could have been damaged, including you may have fried the PS or the ram or the video card(s) in (a) slot(s).

- make sure you have connected everything properly - consult the mboard manual - labelling on the mboard can be
confusing.
Your mboard requires an extra power connection from the PS other than the one for the main connector - that MUST be connected.
Some video cards have sockets that require you connect them to one (or two) power connectors coming from the PS - that MUST be connected for the video to work, and the mboard may not boot if that isn't connected.
If you have been fiddling with the clear cmos jumper or similar, it MUST be on the pinsf or the "normal" mode or similar, otherwise the mboard may not boot!

- You're saying you've installed two video cards.
When you install more than one PCI-E X16 video card, sometimes the additional card(s) require you have do something specific to the mboard on the mboard or in the mboard's bios in order for you to get video from the card(s) other than the first one - see the mboard manual.

- the ram you choose to install must be listed as compatible with your mboard model somewhere - if it isn't, it MAY work in your mboard - or it MAY NOT work. See YOUR RAM and YOUR RAM #2 below.

- the cpu you choose must be listed as compatible with your mboard, and that cpu must be supported by the bios version the mboard has. See YOUR CPU below.

- A common thing that can happen with ram, even ram that worked fine previously, is the ram has, or has developed, a poor connection in it's slot(s).
This usually happens a long time after the ram was installed, but it can happen with new ram, or after moving the computer case from one place to another, and I've had even new modules that needed to have their contacts cleaned.

See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
...................................

YOUR RAM.

"6GB OCZ DDR3 PC3 12800 8-8-8 @1.65v"

I know from previous experience OCZ has a crappy ram configurator.The ram for lots of mboard models and brand name systems are not listed.

http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/
Select Tools tab - Memory Configurator

System Type - Motherboards
Manufacturer - Intel
Model - DX58SO
No results

I looked up Intel's info regarding the manufacturer's part number for the DX58SO mboard

"BOXDX58SO Single box; AA#: E29331-xxx"

On the OCZ site in the same place...

Manufacturer's part number: E29331
Exact match de-slected, Search - no results

(You could try the specific model E29331-xxx
found printed on the mboard surface, xxx being something other than xxx, but that will probably yield no results as well.)

Searched the whole OCZ site with DX58SO and DX58 - no results.

OCZ does NOT list ram for your mboard model !!!
.......

DX58SO mboard support Home:
http://www.intel.com/support/mother...

Compatibilty - Intel Hardware

YOUR CPU
"Intel Core i7 Processor"
That's not specific enough.

The cpu you are using must be on this list,
http://processormatch.intel.com/Com...
and the mboard must have the bios version specified, or higher, in order to support recognizing it.
If the mboard DOES NOT have at least the bios version specified, the mboard may not boot at all, and you or a technician at a local place may need to install a cpu the bios Version DOES recognize, flash the bios to at least the bios version listed or the newest non-beta bios version, THEN you can install the cpu you want to use and it will be recognized fine.

Compatibility - Third Party Hardware/Software - System memory
http://www.intel.com/support/mother...
No OCZ memory listed !!!
.........

YOUR RAM #2

The cpu's required FSB bus speed must be supported by the speed of ram you have installed, otherwise the cpu cannot run at it's full rated speed, and it's possible but unlikely the cpu may not boot at all if the ram speed isn't fast enough.
.....

The ram you chose may be incompatible with using it in this mboard!
That is a very common problem these days for recent mboards!
In the worst casesof ram incompatibilty, your mboard WILL NOT BOOT when any incompatible module is installed, and it may not beep at all!

It is easy to test for incompatible ram that has caused your mboard to fail to boot.

Make sure you have a speaker or speakers or the equivalent connected to the mboard so you can hear mboard beeps (see your mboard manual or owner's manual if you need to).
Remove the AC power to the case/power supply.
Remove all the ram.
Restore AC power.
Try to boot.
If nothing else is wrong, you will get no video but you will hear a pattern of beeps that indicate no ram is installed, or a ram problem.
E.g. for an Award bios or a bios based on one, that's often a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.
.......

See response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
Correction to that:
Mushkin www.mushkin.com
........

A 1000 watt PS will handle any current possible system, even one with 3 or 4? PCI-E X16 video cards.

If there is nothing wrong with your power supply (you haven't un-intentionally fried it) it should work fine connected to a known working desktop system.

A known working PS from another desktop computer that has all the wiring connections you need should work fine with your mboard if nothing else is wrong - but it would probably have to have 400 watts or more capacity, and you may need to unplug the second video card in a slot .


Report •

#10
September 11, 2009 at 12:40:50
"Anyways, powers on, lights come on, all fans spin, no beeps, hard drive spins, and absolutely nothing on the screen. My monitor briefly comes on then goes off cuz it doesn't detect a signal."

The OP mentioned no beeps! I am by no means an expert here but I have seen this several times. Only once on a newly built system then it was simply the ram needed to be reseated. Every other time, and there have been many it was, it was a bad CPU. I know there are other causes. Too much paste can squish out from between the heatsink and precessor an get into the connections. If that happened it is going to be fun to clean. I did that with the first system I built. I had to learn the hard way. The fact that it doesn't start doesn't bother me but no beeps does. I was told before that usually means either the cpu is bad or the mboard is. I hope that is wrong.

Likely

Practice makes perfect but only if you practice perfectly!


Report •

#11
September 11, 2009 at 13:56:06
Tubesandwires:

Here is the link to where I got RAM info and why I purchased this model:

http://www.ocztechnology.com/produc...

Mike


Report •

#12
September 11, 2009 at 14:30:56
And remember...

1. Do not pull the motherboard battery.
2. Follow Response Number 4 to the letter.
3. After 1. and 2., post back with the results. One thing at a time will prevent your problem turning into a nightmare.

Skip


Report •

#13
September 11, 2009 at 15:53:02
Before installing mobo into the system case try to test it outside with cpu,ram,psu

Report •

#14
September 11, 2009 at 16:54:00
"Here is the link to where I got RAM info and why I purchased this model:
http://www.ocztechnology.com/produc... "

OK, then the ram should work. Something else is wrong.


Report •

#15
September 11, 2009 at 17:12:02
jam must be in a good mood today. He didn't get on your case about bench testing the board before installing in the case. You should have done that. If the advice jam gave you in #4 doesn't get you up and running then you should pull the board and strip it down to the bare necessities. PSU with connections, 1 stick of RAM, CPU/HS/fan, video, monitor and keyboard.

No drives other case wiring USB, external hardware, etc.


Report •

#16
September 12, 2009 at 11:13:30
jam and likelystory:

So I'm starting all over with the wealth of knowlege you and everyone else has listed above. I've pull everything back out and I removed the heatsink from the cpu and well....

....have you ever put too much ketchup and mustard on a burger and then put the top bun on and pushed it down and all the sauce come oozing out? Ummm....yeah. Remind me never to ask a "Geek Squad Agent" how to properly apply the thermal compound onto a cpu.

Anyways, now that I took my time and thoroughly cleaned it all up, time to start from scratch!


Report •

#17
September 12, 2009 at 11:14:01
Kuwese and OtheHill:

"Bench testing my MB?" I'm assuming you mean do not install it in the case rather place it on top of the antistatic bag that it came in and power it up with only the following installed:

processor
heatsink
one stick of RAM
and PS

I'll give it a try!


Report •

#18
September 12, 2009 at 11:32:55
Make sure any metal mounting posts that screw into the case used for attaching the mboard are NOT in a position where there is no screw hole in the mboard - in that case the metal post can short something on the back of the mboard, and it may do that intermittantly rather than all the time.

See the mboard manual - you MAY have to install a single module in a specific slot, and the 3 modules MAY need to be in specific slots if there are more than 3 slots.

I've had experience with several fairly recent mboards that were finnickly regarding properly seating the ram - I had to try seating them several times in some cases. In that case, if nothing else is wrong, the no ram installed test should produce mboard beeps, as I detailed above.


Report •

#19
September 12, 2009 at 11:35:21
You need a monitor and keyboard too.

Report •

#20
September 12, 2009 at 12:01:20
This page whould make bench testing a bit clearer.

http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...

Skip


Report •

#21
September 12, 2009 at 12:27:40
Ok, so mobo is out of the case sitting on the antistatic bag that's on top of the box it came in.

CPU, one thin line of thermal compound, and heatsink installed.

1 stick of RAM install in Channel A, DIMM 0.

1 PCIE video card installed in the PRIMARY PCIE SLOT (I know, I know, it's an older 6600 card, so it does not have a power connector directly on the card).

Speaker connector hooked up and sound is turned up all the way just in case I need to listen for any kind of beeps.

1000W PS connected to FOUR different areas on my Intel DX58SO mobo. The PS connector sizes and mobo labels are:

2 x 12 (24-pin) PWR
2 x 4 (12-pin) 12v PWR
1 x 4 (looks like old skool 4-pin IDE power connectors) AUX PWR
SATA (looks like a really wide SATA connector) AUX PWR

Do I need to connect to all these areas of the mobo?

RESULTS:

Different LEDs on my mobo light up, fans on CPU heatsink, PS, and video card all spin nicely. Other than that....

...NOTHING!

The amber light next to the power button on my monitor never changed color to blue showing signal.

Of the 3 sticks of RAM, I've tried each one individually as well as all 3 at the same time, and even NO RAM at all.

I've swapped PCIE cards. I tried both PCIE cards at the same time with and without the SLI bridge adapter and I even tried an older PCI video card in the PCI slot using VGA connection to the monitor. All three cards were immediately tested on another computer of mine and all are in working order.

I heard no beeps what so ever.

If you're wondering if the cpu and mobo are compatible, I'm pretty sure they are considering the "bundle" was sent to me directly from Intel. The buddle consists of the Intel DX58SO mobo and the Intel Core i7-920.

Power supply is the BFG EX-1000 Power Supply

Thoughts anyone?


Report •

#22
September 12, 2009 at 13:24:41
Are you sure the "2 x 4 (12-pin) 12v PWR" Isn't 2 rows of 4 pins? That connector may separate.

You need to connect either a Sq 4 pin 12V power directly to the MBoard or possibly something even larger like 6 or 8 pin.

There aren't that many places to connect that type of connector directly to the board. Connection will be somewhere near the processor.


Report •

#23
September 12, 2009 at 13:40:16
OtheHill:

HAHA! Yeah, I can't do math today. The 2 x 4 connector IS an 8-pin.

Here's an online image of my mobo:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/cpu/...


Report •

#24
September 12, 2009 at 14:01:10
OK, couldn't make out anything on your link but looked at a picture of the board at the Intel site. There is an 8pin connector on there that you need to use. 2 rows of 4. The connector is polarized so it can only plug in one way. It is down to the right at a 45 degree angle in your picture.

Report •

#25
September 12, 2009 at 21:37:44
If you haven't tried these things yet, try at least the first one!
"If there is nothing wrong with your power supply (you haven't un-intentionally fried it) it should work fine connected to a known working desktop system.

A known working PS from another desktop computer that has all the wiring connections you need should work fine with your mboard if nothing else is wrong - but it would probably have to have 400 watts or more capacity, and you may need to unplug the second video card in a slot ."
...........

"Speaker connector hooked up and sound is turned up all the way just in case I need to listen for any kind of beeps."

In most cases, the mboard beeps come from the case speaker that's connected to certain pins on the mboard in the front panel header or elsewhere, or a tiny piezo speaker device built into the mboard or that comes with the mboard that you connect to pins on the mboard, not from the amplified speakers that connect to the onboard audio. If the beeps do come from the onboard audio, usually there are no pins for a case (single, mono) speaker on the mboard, and a pair of speakers must connect to the green port for the onboard sound.

"Do I need to connect to all these areas of the mobo?"

READ AND HEED THE MBOARD MANUAL !
The PS probably has more connectors than you need.
All the sockets for power on the mboard only allow one type of connector from the PS to be connected in one place in one direction, because of the shapes of the plastic around the pins and the shapes of the holes in the sockets. All of those sockets for power must be connected to the PS.
If your video cards have no sockets for power you don't need to connect anything from the PS to them.

"If you're wondering if the cpu and mobo are compatible, I'm pretty sure they are considering the "bundle" was sent to me directly from Intel. The buddle consists of the Intel DX58SO mobo and the Intel Core i7-920."

I think that's the first time you've mentioned it's a 920.

Suppliers make mistakes frequently.

There are two 920 versions - click on Multiple Values
Minimum bios version is either 2127 or 3828
http://processormatch.intel.com/Com...

It is often impossible to tell which bios version your mboard has if the mboard will not boot.
Comparing the date you bought the mboard to the date of the bios versions on the Intel site for your model can't be relied upon because sometimes mboards sit in warehouses for months after they were made before you buy them.
They MAY be a DATE the mboard was made printed on a label on the box the mboard came in - I've never seen that on a stuck on label on the mboard but you could look there too. A bios update listed on the Intel web site for your mboard model that is older than that date, say, at least a couple months older, is probably the bios version the mboard has.
There MAY be a bios version number printed on a label on the box the mboard came in, but I've never seen that.
There MAY be a bios version number printed on a label on or near the bios chip on the mboard, but that's rather rare - that is usually the original bios version if it's there at all, and if it has a date it's usually a lot older the mboard could possibly be.
You MAY be able to find out the bios version the mboard has by emailing the Intel site and supplying the serial number for the mboard - that's probably at least on a label on the mboard, on a label on the outside of the box the mboard came in , and possibly on the bill for the bundle the mboard was in.



Report •

#26
September 12, 2009 at 22:33:48
I am still thinking bad cpu. I have 2 bad power supplies here now that I still got a post beep with. Took me forever to believe it was them causing the problem though. All the fans and lights still worked so I kept over looking it on both systems so I could be very wrong about the cpu.


Likely

Practice makes perfect but only if you practice perfectly!


Report •

#27
September 13, 2009 at 09:43:38
So today I'm gonna go return the PS and get a new one to rule it out.

Then I'll try and chat support with Intel to see if they can shed any light on what's going on and maybe even RMA my mobo and cpu.

I'll keep yall posted.

Intel DX58SO Motherboard
Intel Core i7-920 Processor
6GB OCZ DDR3 12800 1.65v
BFG GeForce 6600 PCIE x2
BFG 1000w Power Supply
Antec 900 Case


Report •

#28
September 13, 2009 at 12:09:39
Did you plug in the other connector to the motherboard as described above in #24? Board isn't going to POST without it.

Report •

#29
September 13, 2009 at 13:13:56
OtheHill:

Yes, I plugged in all four power connectors. I even tried just the 2 main power
connectors & then each individual AUX PWR connector. Still no POST no
BEEPS.

Intel DX58SO Motherboard
Intel Core i7-920 Processor
6GB OCZ DDR3 12800 1.65v
BFG GeForce 6600 PCIE x2
BFG 1000w Power Supply
Antec 900 Case


Report •

#30
September 20, 2009 at 12:38:21
I don't quite understand why the old power supply can still power up and spin all the fans and light the LEDs etc etc, but when I replaced it with a new one just like it, it did the same only this time my computer POSTED!

Anyways, long story short. I ONLY replaced the PS and never RMA'ed the board. Vista is now installed and the system is up and running!

With all the Vista updates, I've rebooted many times and no problems.

Currently using the stock heatsink/fan that came with the i7-920. Do I really need to replace it though? I'm not an overclocker and the only thing that I would be doing with this computer that would be considered extreme use to me is playing WOW.

Intel DX58SO Motherboard
Intel Core i7-920 Processor
w/stock heatsink/fan
6GB OCZ DDR3 12800 1.65v
X2 BFG GeForce 6600 GT
BFG 1000w Power Supply
Antec 900 Case


Report •

#31
September 20, 2009 at 13:14:23
We're glad to hear you found a solution.
......

I usually supply this info if there's any indication in the posts from the person who started the topic that indicates to me their PS might be faulty:

"Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.
See response 4 in this:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

(and more to go along with that) "

If you had tried this as I stated at the end of response 9, you could have found the PS was malfunctioning long ago:

"If there is nothing wrong with your power supply (you haven't un-intentionally fried it) it should work fine connected to a known working desktop system.

A known working PS from another desktop computer that has all the wiring connections you need should work fine with your mboard if nothing else is wrong - but it would probably have to have 400 watts or more capacity, and you may need to unplug the second video card in a slot ."

What I suspect in this case is there was probably nothing wrong with the PS when you got it, but at some point you forgot to remove the AC power to it, as in this, from earlier on in response 9, and you damaged the PS because of that:

"- you MUST remove the AC power source to the power supply when it has been connected to the mboard whenever you connect anything to the mboard or to the PS or make any changes to connections to the mboard or to the PS, and when you plug in or unplug ram or cards in mboard slots!!

If you didn't do that at ALL times, something could have been damaged, including you may have fried the PS or the ram or the video card(s) in (a) slot(s)."

I fried one PS when I merely plugged in a hard drive when it had live AC power.



Report •


Ask Question