My PC won't boot, loud intermittent noises.

November 14, 2010 at 12:02:45
Specs: Windows XP, 1gb
I first lost sound about a week ago, then my screen went blank. Suggestions were replace video card then monitor. I got a new video card and installed it, No change. Got new monitor, everything fine. So I thought maybe my original video card was okay... Took out the new one and put the old one back in. When booting said windows didn't start properly and so I tried starting normally and the screen came back. Tried safe and it just kept scrolling. So i just pushed the power button to turn off. Took the old video card out and put the new one back in... Pushed the power button and the loud noise came in brief spurts and the system won't boot.

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November 14, 2010 at 12:20:17
is the "loud noise" a series elongated beeps?

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November 14, 2010 at 12:24:32
disregard... wrong topic

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November 14, 2010 at 12:27:17
Sorry about that second comment. I was in the wrong tab. Was trying to answer somebody else's question. Still would like to know the answer to my original question...

is the "loud noise" a series elongated beeps?

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Related Solutions

November 14, 2010 at 12:36:48
jowah, did you know that you can edit your other posts instead of making 3 new ones?

Some HELP in posting on plus free progs and instructions Cheers

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November 14, 2010 at 12:52:41
"jowah, did you know that you can edit your other posts instead of making 3 new ones?"

click on the icon that looks like a notepad at the right end at the top of your posts.

Describe the noise better.

Is it coming from the mboard - a beep pattern - or from something else ?

Tell us the make and model of your brand name system, or if you have a generic desktop system, the make and model of the mboard.

The specific model of a brand name system is shown on a label on the outside of the case somewhere, or it can often be determined by going to the brand name's web site and loading a program they have available.
For Dell computers, they have a Service Tag number - the specific model can be determined by using that on their site, or can often be determined there automatically by you downloading some software. The Service Tag number should be on a label on the outside of the case, probably on the bottom on a laptop, on the back on a desktop, and is often also shown in the bios Setup.

The model, sometimes the make, of a mboard in a generic desktop system is usually printed on the mboard's surface in obvious larger characters, often between the slots.

You should have gotten some expert advice before you bought and tried installing things willy nilly.

Your video card and your monitor has probably got absolutely nothing to do with your sound problem.

In almost all cases, when you have a sound problem, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the sound adapter that produces the sound. The problem is almost always caused by a software problem on a desktop computer.

If you have installed Windows from scratch since the sound last worked, the Windows CD may not have the onboard sound drivers for your mboard, or for your sound card in a mboard slot, built into it.

XP doesn't have the drivers built in for most things that first came out after XP was first released, circa 2001, and it doesn't have some of the drivers built in for things made before that.

Whenever you load Windows from a regular Windows CD (or DVD) from scratch, after Setup is finished you must load the drivers for the mboard, particularly the main chipset drivers, in order for Windows to have the proper drivers for and information about your mboard hardware, including it's AGP or PCI-E, ACPI, USB 2.0 if it has it, and hard drive controller support. If you have a generic system and have the CD that came with the mboard, all the necessary drivers are on it. If you load drivers from the web, brand name system builders and mboard makers often DO NOT have the main chipset drivers listed in the downloads for your model - in that case you must go to the maker of the main chipset's web site, get the drivers, and load them.

Whenever you are going to be fiddling with connections or components inside a desktop case that has an ATX mboard, you should ALWAYS disconnect the AC power to the ATX power supply, otherwise you can easily damage something. ATX power supplies are always powering ATX mboards in some places, even when the computer is NOT running, if the PS is connected to the mboard and the PS has AC power.

Sometimes when you fiddle around inside a desktop case, you have un-intentionally loosened the connection of something, or damaged something.

Your video card (and all cards installed in mboard slots) MUST be all the way down in it's slot BEFORE you attempt to boot the computer - the screw or other feature that fastens it down should always be securing it BEFORE you do that.

Your ram must be all the way down in it's slots, and the latches at the ends of each slot must be against the ends of the ram modules.

Check all wiring connections to make sure they are all the way onto their pins or into their sockets.

Most mboards must have both the main 20 or 24 pin, and a 4 or 8 pin, connector from the PS connected to sockets in the mboard.

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.

Some video cards have one connector, or one or two sockets, on them that you must connect wiring from the power supply to because they require more power than the slot they plug into can supply. If your power supply doesn't have the required connectors, you need to buy and use appropriate wiring adapters or get yourself a newer power supply that has the right connectors.

If the new video card requires that you have a power supply capacity on your system that is a lot more than your existing power supply has, the new video card may not work properly, and you may have damaged the inadequate power supply by installing it.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you have installed the right sound "drivers" the WRONG way, you may not have sound.

Sound and video "drivers" always have associated files that must be installed properly along with the actual drivers. If you install only the actual drivers, it's likely the device will NOT work properly.

Unless the instructions for installing a device tell you otherwise....
(this ALWAYS applies to video and sound adapters )

You DO NOT install drivers for a device while booting into Windows, if the software for the device has not been installed yet - when Windows detects a generic device or New Hardware while booting, you allow it to search for drivers, it doesn't find any, and it wants you to show it the location of the drivers - CANCEL that, continue on to the desktop, and install the software for the device using the proper installation from a CD or the proper installation file that you downloaded from the web.
The same applies no matter when Windows finds New Hardware !

If you DID install drivers that way,

(The following also applies if you want to un-install previous software, or re-install the same software)

- for video "drivers"....

- go to Control Panel - Classic View - Add/Remove Programs and Un-install the software you installed, reboot, DO NOT install drivers while booting, let the desktop screen fully load.

Install the video software properly by running the proper download you got from the web, or if you have the CD that came with the video card that's in a slot, or if you have the CD that came with the brand name computer that has the Drivers on it, run the video software installation from the installation program on that.

for sound adapter drivers...

- go to Control Panel - Classic View - Add/Remove Programs and Un-install the software you installed, reboot, DO NOT install drivers while booting.

- go to Device Manager.
(e.g. RIGHT click on My Computer - Properties - Hardware - Device Manager)
If the sound adapter is still listed, RIGHT click on it and Un-install it.
If that was there, and you un-installed it, Reboot at least once.
DO NOT install drivers while booting.

Install the sound software properly by running the proper download you got from the web, or if you have the CD that came with the sound card, or if you have the CD that came with the brand name computer that has the Drivers on it, run the sound software installation from the installation program on that.

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