Solved Modular Semi Modular Fully Modular

April 6, 2018 at 23:12:17
Specs: Windows 10
A question about price and if its worth it. If you see a modular power supply same wattage and gold standard as a fully modular pow supply but $50 cheaper are you getting the modular PS regardless of the wire hassle?

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April 7, 2018 at 00:32:56
You left out an important factor - - the make and model. Price should not be the primary deciding factor at all (indeed for me the price doesn't even come in to the decision - - I buy the best whatever the cost).

Not all PSUs are the same quality!

So first you should decide if you want a modular or non-modular before you even start looking for a suitable PSU.

Your way of choosing is all wrong to me.

message edited by phil22

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April 7, 2018 at 05:01:22
Fully modular means that all wires are plug ins, semi modular means that all of the 'always use' cables are always connected as hard wired and only the 'optional' cables are removable and plug in. IF (and I really mean IF) the power supplies are the same brand and quality the semi modular would be less expensive and may save you some money. They are also good for those who do not really trust that the contacts on the power supply end will not give them trouble in the distant future while maintaining the advantage of generally a neater case with less unused wire runs and loose end connectors.
As Phil mentions, this MUST be secondary to the quality and often brand of the power supply, especially since (though not limited to the fact that) you are looking at 'Gold' rated power supplies.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.

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April 7, 2018 at 06:28:40
✔ Best Answer
This explains the difference between non-modular, semi-modular, & fully modular:

Personally, I see no read need to go fully modular because the cables that are pre-attached on a semi-modular are definitely going to be used. Also, any plug-in connection is a potential point of failure, so the less plugs you have, the better off you are. For example, would you rather have one 100ft cable or ten 10ft cables daisy chained together?

Your main concern should be the specs. The PSU should come from a reputable name brand manufacturer & it should have ALL of the following:
- single 120mm or 140mm cooling fan
- active PFC (power factor correction)
- single +12v rail of at least 32A (higher amperage is generally better)
- 80 Plus efficiency certified (Bronze, Silver, Gold, etc)
- at least 400W. Higher wattage may be needed depending on the system hardware & plans for future upgrades.
- enough cables for all your devices (graphics cards, HDDs, DVD, etc)
- at least a 3 year warranty

Corsair PSUs almost always have all those qualities covered & often have rebates. For example, here's a Corsair 650W semi-modular for just $45 after rebate:

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April 8, 2018 at 00:53:07
awesome thx u guys for the help. I'm looking at an 850w Gold EVGA or Corsair modular and simi mod but they r so expensive its annoying. the ones under a buck sells out quick leaving the 150 dollar ones and that BLOWS.

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April 8, 2018 at 09:00:07
You will ultimately make the call but I gave you my opinion & recommendation. You definitely do NOT need an 850W PSU plus you do NOT need to pay more than $50 for a decent quality 450-650W unit. If you're not in the US, availability & pricing will probably be different.

Also, be aware that more wattage will NOT make your system perform any better. If your system only requires 300W, that's all the PSU will churn out. It's good to have reserve capability for future upgrades, but the general trend is that newer hardware will consume less power. 450W will give you all the breathing room you need, but since the Corsair 650W is only $45, why not??

You also do not HAVE to get a modular or semi-modular unit. Non-modular was all that was available for many, many years & they're still available to this day. 3 of my 4 builds have Corsair 430W non-modular PSUs & the 4th has a Thermaltake 430W non-modular. The only disadvantage to non-modular is cable management. IMO, that disadvantage far outweighs the potential for failure at one of the modular connections, even if the risk is small. Why pay more for a higher risk?

message edited by riider

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April 8, 2018 at 14:47:59
man thx. I was going for the 850 platinum EVGA Series but now I'll totally rethink my choice. I do have a powerful rig i'm building though so I think I'm going to go the extra mile. Also I do intend on upgrading the GPU and RAM so lowest I'll go wattage wise is 750. From what you're saying it sounds like it really doesn't matter if I get bronze or gold, is this true? If so then I know exactly what I want.

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April 12, 2018 at 12:33:16
"From what you're saying it sounds like it really doesn't matter if I get bronze or gold, is this true?"

That depends on what you want & how much you're willing to spend. I would not buy a PSU that's not 80 Plus certified, which means it's at least 80% efficient. The Bronze, Silver, Gold, etc ratings means they're even more efficient. Here's a chart:

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