modem leave on 24/7?

June 21, 2020 at 14:01:57
Specs: Macintosh , 16 MB
I'm using a MacBook Air and have internet with Comcast. Should I leave modem on 24/7 or turn off when offline 2 or 3 days?

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June 21, 2020 at 14:16:48
My router (modem/router all in one) stays on the whole time; as I use the wifi mode at times for my iPad and the ethernet when my Macs are powered up.

If you don't need the wifi option when not using the Macbook then no harm to power down and save pennies on the electricity bill? One advantage of powering down the modem is that likely your isp dhcp may/will give you a different ip address each time you power up; which can konphuse anyone trying to hack into your system?

Edited per trvlr to korrekt a spelink error...

message edited by trvlr

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June 21, 2020 at 14:40:35
Thanks for the advice.

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June 21, 2020 at 15:20:40
No other wifi devices? Roku? Fire Stick? Cell phone?

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June 22, 2020 at 05:57:50
No other device. If I had another device what would your advise be?

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June 22, 2020 at 06:48:08
if you don't need the wifi service no point to leave a router/modem on radiating and using electricity?

Regardless of possible health issues (let's not go there at this time...) the electricity costs to use; so save the pennies for other "treats"?

When I go away overnight or longer I usually power down my router and any other kit as well. Only item that may remain on standby is my Sat box PVR system as I may wish to record something whilst away.

And I turn off main water feed (stop tap) indoors, also the gas (internal tap by the gas meter); unless it's winter... in which case likely I leave water and gas feeds on (thermostats set to a little above frost levels...). But first check that all is as well it ought to be.

On this last point... a neighbour across from me left everything "on" and was away for about a week or so... Unfortunately he removed a radiator in the middle bedroom before leaving - but didn't properly block off the feed/exit pipes; the valves he left installed were not fully leak proof (they're not designed that way). Radiator valves are a bit like gate valves; they're not truly water tight when turned off/fully closed; and can/do seep... (Which is why one puts blanking caps on their exits or some other form of blocking system to prevent any seepage escaping. There are various ways for that.)

He returned to find the ceilings down in two rooms on the ground floor, with water simply cascading all over those two ground floor (front and middle) rooms; wall plaster a soggy mess; carpets and furniture wrecked... And when the builders came in to inspect etc. (for the insurance company) and removed a lighting fixture in a third ground floor room - even more water cascaded; and that ceiling too was condemned... Even the kitchen at the very rear wasn't spared as water got into that as well.

Newly laid floors have been wrecked; all now taken out and the ceilings stripped of all lathe/plaster and/or plaster board as appropriate... Some walls similarly. That was two/three months ago and they're still waiting for it all to dry out; before further damage removal can take place; flooring systems - joists/boards not long installed - across most of the ground floor; and possibly even floor joists upstairs...?

They have no idea when the actual restoration etc. will start, let alone how long it'll take once begun... A total rebuild of the whole ground floor and part upstairs too, including a total rewiring job.

Had the internal house water supply/feed been turned off the CH system (a typical UK pumped hot water radiator system) would have drained a modest amount - upstairs radiators and the header tank; and then stopped... But with the main water feed still on... the system just kept going via the header tank which was constantly being topped up/fed...

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June 23, 2020 at 07:13:52
Thanks, I'll keep everyone's view in mind.

Thanks to everyone,

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