Home made PC with problems

Amd Athlon xp 2000+ processor
August 29, 2009 at 17:08:01
Specs: Windows XP
Having problems with a 7 yr old AMD desktop. Every time I turn the system on a black screen appears with vertical colored lines running down the screen. Can someone please help me with issue.

See More: Home made PC with problems

Report •


#1
August 29, 2009 at 17:38:44
Do you see any screens with text information for your hardware prior to the condition you described above?

Report •

#2
August 29, 2009 at 19:21:24
in the beginning of the problem two weeks ago yes, but now I just restarted the PC and everything seems fine. I'm starting to think some hardware is going bad gradually.

Report •

#3
August 29, 2009 at 19:33:20
Could be your graphics chip/card. Or the graphic drivers, or overheating of the graphics.

For overheating open the case and see if there is lots of dust/dirt inside. If you have never cleaned it out it will be filthy.

Blow it out with canned or compressed air. You may want to take the case outside to do that. Blow out the PSU from both ends too. DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner on computers.


Report •

Related Solutions

#4
August 29, 2009 at 19:41:18
I cleaned the whole inside of the computer 4months ago, because it was full of dust, and at that time it wouldn't reboot , and it was giving a beeping message. After the clean up it started to reboot fine, but at times these lines would appear on the screen as if the screen was going bad. Today I opened the case , cleaned around and kept the computer case off to see if it'll work. Now the computer is working fine! Any suggestions?

Report •

#5
August 29, 2009 at 19:43:11
Forgot to mention, today before the lines appeared, small case letter "a "were filling the screen, i don't know if that indicates an issue.

Report •

#6
August 29, 2009 at 19:52:07
Do you have an add in video card or on board video?

On an unrelated note download and run Ccleaner Slim & Malwarebytes. Get them at the links below.

http://www.ccleaner.com/download/bu...
http://www.malwarebytes.org/


Report •

#7
August 29, 2009 at 20:09:47
its an add in VC , the problem is my friend built this PC for me 7 years ago, so I'm not sure but I know the motherboard is Shuttle AK32A . Now the PC is running fine, but I see streaks of blue lines in some pics on the net, these are the same lines I noticed 4 months ago.

Report •

#8
August 29, 2009 at 20:20:25
I think I found my problem, just ran a scan with norton, found two viruses Backdoor, and packed generic, they are quarantined, do you any suggestions on how to rid my PC from all undetected viruses?

Report •

#9
August 29, 2009 at 20:50:41
You could try this one.

http://free.avg.com/

I suppose anything is possible but I don't think a virus is causing the video problems.

If there is a cooling fan on your add in Video Card watch it to verify it is spinning fast enough and regular. If only a heat sink then verify it is secure.


Report •

#10
August 29, 2009 at 21:07:55
The cooling fan is running ok, do you think its the video card

Report •

#11
August 29, 2009 at 21:11:20
Could be a corrupted driver. That shouldn't come and go though.

One thing you could try is to re-seat all cards, RAM, cables. Make sure to unplug the computer and exercise static precautions.

Also make sure the data cable to the monitor is connected firmly.


Report •

#12
August 29, 2009 at 21:15:58
I did all of the above today, the funny thing is the blue streak appears on certain pictures , but is not seen on a white page.

Report •

#13
August 29, 2009 at 21:20:29
Could be the settings on the monitor then. Is it like bleeding?

Did you update to the latest video driver for your card and OS?


Report •

#14
August 29, 2009 at 21:30:03
yes it is like bleeding. I don't recall doing that

Report •

#15
August 30, 2009 at 11:38:02
today the system rebooted but shut down on it's own, with a message stating that a recent hardwear or softwear has changed causing this to happin, so I put the system in last good configuration several times until it opened fine but message on desk top read serious error recovery.

Report •

#16
August 30, 2009 at 12:01:57
is there anyone that can help, please.

Report •

#17
August 30, 2009 at 12:31:24
Sounds like a hardware failure. Do you have on board video as well as the add in card? If so, remove the add in card while the computer is unplugged and connect the monitor to the on board.

Report •

#18
August 30, 2009 at 12:36:36
my computer just wont start windows now, there is a message that states file corruption \Windoows\Systems32\Config\system
you can attempt to repair this file by starting windows setup using thr original setup CD. I don't have the CD!

Report •

#19
August 30, 2009 at 12:43:40
Why don't you have a CD? Thought this was a custom built computer?

Report •

#20
August 30, 2009 at 12:48:58
yes, but my friend was the one that built it , and I can't find any of the cd-rom that he gave me 7 yrs ago.

Report •

#21
August 30, 2009 at 12:55:12
can this be the source of all the problems, i'll buy a new cd if thats the case. Just want to make sure before I purchase it.

Report •

#22
August 30, 2009 at 13:22:24
I would run the computer for a few days with a puppy cd
http://distrowatch.com/?newsid=05400

I would download the one that contains "retro k26.21.7"
create a cd from this and run it for awhile, see if you have problems.

larry


Report •

#23
August 30, 2009 at 13:29:55
As far as the CD goes, I take it you don't have the key either?

Report •

#24
August 30, 2009 at 15:57:14
no i don't have it, will the puppy cd allow me to get in the system

Report •

#25
August 30, 2009 at 22:31:05
got the puppy cd, but don't know how to run it with the screen being black and having the corruption message mentioned before displayed. Any suggestions.

Report •

#26
August 30, 2009 at 23:20:28
please anyone available

Report •

#27
August 31, 2009 at 02:03:21
boot from the cd like you would if it were an xp cd, if you made it correctly.

larry


Report •

#28
August 31, 2009 at 10:57:41
could u please run the steps to do that, because every time I place cd in system it does not run, thank you for your help i really appreciate it

Report •

#29
August 31, 2009 at 11:33:16
There is no option once system starts, it goes directly to the error message mentioned previously.

Report •

#30
August 31, 2009 at 15:49:23
Can some one please tell me the steps to get this UBCD win4 running I would really appreciate that.

Report •

#31
August 31, 2009 at 17:08:23
How did you make the CD?

Report •

#32
August 31, 2009 at 19:42:29
went to the website by using my laptop ,downloaded UBCD win4 than burned it on cd.

Report •

#33
September 1, 2009 at 03:14:23
If the disk won't boot then you burned it wrong. Did you download a file with an ISO file extension?

You do have your CD drive set first in the boot oreder don't you?

Watch for a screen to hit any key to boot from CD.


Report •

#34
September 1, 2009 at 07:44:14
I don't know if I downloaded it w/ ISO file. As for the boot order, I pressed F8 went to BIOS and set booting from CD as first option, is that what your referring too? Do you know of website orlink where I can download UBCD w/ ISO?

Report •

#35
September 1, 2009 at 07:53:09
When I download the UBCD I don't see an option with ISO file mentioned. Can you give me a link for this file and download

Report •

#36
September 1, 2009 at 08:51:58
In #22 it was suggested you try booting to a version of Linux to see if your problem is hardware or software. How did you get from there to Ultimate Boot CD?

In either case you need to use a third party burning program like Nero or Roxio to make a bootable CDR from an ISO file.

If you still want to get UBCD below is a link.

http://fileforum.betanews.com/detai...


Report •

#37
September 1, 2009 at 09:02:28
what do you recommend ?

Report •

#38
September 1, 2009 at 09:19:20
Any live version of Linux will take Windows out of the loop. I think UBCD has a version but the puppy mentioned in #22 is a more straight forward method. You would make the CDR and then boot directly to it.

If the system still has problems or won't boot at all then there is probably a hardware problem. That is why it was recommended in the first place.

Do you have Nero or Roxio burning software available on a computer?

I haven't used puppy so I don't know if it is capable of accessing NTFS files. If it is then you could at least recover personal files. I know Knoppix is capable of that and the version of UBCD I linked to has Knoppix on it, according to the site. Knoppix is just another version of Linux that can run directly of the CDR without installing to the hard drive. Same as puppy.


Report •

#39
September 1, 2009 at 09:27:37
I tried the puppy mentioned above and didn't boot. No, I don't have a roxio or nero.

Report •

#40
September 1, 2009 at 09:30:16
get a free image burning software that can do ISOs. The link below is from a google search. I haven't used any of them but have seen imageburn mentioned here at CN.

http://www.google.com/search?q=free...


Report •

#41
September 1, 2009 at 09:46:31
after I get the nero burning softwear, do you want me to burn the puppy cd again?

Report •

#42
September 1, 2009 at 10:41:43
That would be the easiest.

All you are trying to do is to test the hardware at this point.


Report •

#43
September 1, 2009 at 12:06:33
just burned the cd with puppy, tried to boot with it the system but failed again. Any suggestions.

Report •

#44
September 1, 2009 at 13:03:14
Do u think the hard drive is bad? because I've burned several CDs of UBCD, puppy, and non boot.

Report •

#45
September 1, 2009 at 13:17:02
You are probably burning the disk wrong. You don't copy the ISO file to the disk. If you are using WinXP to burn them I don't think it can make a bootable disk. That is why I suggested you get a free burning program.

Report •

#46
September 1, 2009 at 14:26:00
I used nero to burn the downloaded puppy file

Report •

#47
September 1, 2009 at 15:11:14
When using Nero you record a disc from a disk image, which is what an ISO file is. I can’t give you more exact instructions because there a many different versions of Nero.

Report •

#48
September 1, 2009 at 15:38:51
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/tools...

if you can not create a bootable cd:
http://www.linuxcd.org/view_item.ph...

at least you know you will have a bootable cd.

larry


Report •

#49
September 1, 2009 at 17:12:25
the puppy is working now. Do let it work on its own?

Report •

#50
September 1, 2009 at 18:05:05
if you have 256 mb of ram, puppy will automatically run from the ram. Attempt to take out the cd when the desktop appears. "vertical colored lines running down the screen. "
Has this condition changed with puppy running.

larry


Report •

#51
September 1, 2009 at 18:09:31

Also the icon of a HD, in the bottom left side of the screen may be used to access the drive.

larry


Report •

#52
September 1, 2009 at 18:12:14
right now all I see is black page with "login{#}:root on pts/0 going down the screen in numerical sequence. Is this what puppy supposed to do?

Report •

#53
September 1, 2009 at 19:35:17
system not booting properly, now a screen with various scattered symbols appears. Looks like my problem is a hard wear one.

Report •

#54
September 1, 2009 at 20:32:44
Any other new suggestions that may help me. By the way, thank all of you for all your help I really appreciate it.

Report •

#55
September 1, 2009 at 20:55:33
Try borrowing a graphic card from a friend that will fit in your motherboard. 7 years old is probably AGP 4/8x.

Report •

#56
September 1, 2009 at 21:02:31
I remember that before the system gave me the error message stated before, an error of corruption of the ATI appeared. ATI involves the graphics right. The motherboard for this system is AK32A shuttle; does the AGP fit it?

Report •

#57
September 1, 2009 at 21:18:23
Look at the link below. On that link there is another link to download the specs for your board. Appears to be a universal AGP 1/2/4 slot.

I am not sure any new AGP graphics cards will work. The available voltages are stated.

http://global.shuttle.com/download0...

I wouldn't spend much cash on that system. If you have access to a suitable AGP card then try it but otherwise I wouldn't buy a card for it. Might be better to just replace the motherboard and graphics or buy something with integrated graphics.

http://global.shuttle.com/download0...

Below is a link explaining the various versions of AGP slots. If you install an AGP 8x card in that board I think you may fry the card.

Your other option would be to get a PCI based card and use that. As I said, I wouldn't spend much cash on getting that rig going.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accele...


Report •

#58
September 1, 2009 at 21:30:59
Without a WinXP CD you are going to have trouble getting this running. There are some older motherboards around that have integrated graphics on them. Below is a link to a site I have used that has at least one board that may have the same Via chipset on it which may not require a Window re-install. That said, you currently have a problem with Windows that requires a CD to fix.

I don't see any way to accomplish that without a copy od Windows.

http://3btech.net/motherboards-sock...

For what you may need to spend you can buy a used OEM computer that should be a couple of generations newer for little cash.

Go to a local reseller and check it out.


Report •

#59
September 1, 2009 at 21:41:04
In your opinion , Am I looking @ greater than 150.00 spending to fix this PC?

Report •

#60
September 1, 2009 at 22:07:24
Do i need the same Win xp cd, or can I get another XP CD?

Report •

#61
September 1, 2009 at 22:14:59
I just found an XP professional cd, ran it, and the system booted, now I'm looking at a blue screen stating" Existing partition and unpartitions on computer" and lists 3 options 1- to set up windows xp, create a partition, or delete . What do I do now?

Report •

#62
September 1, 2009 at 22:23:51
Is there anyone that can assist me with the above , I've been at this all day and finally i got the xp cd I've been looking for.

Report •

#63
September 2, 2009 at 00:03:47
While installing the new xp an error message appears and stops the installation process nfts.sys-address f730a000
any suggestions on dealing with this. I deleted all old partition files and tried to start from scratch.

Report •

#64
September 2, 2009 at 04:28:47
Stop! Do you still have the video problems you described in the start up screens?

Report •

#65
September 2, 2009 at 06:35:10
no, I don't

Report •

#66
September 2, 2009 at 06:58:03
any suggestions on what to do next?

Report •

#67
September 2, 2009 at 10:41:05
after running new OS it shut off on its own and gave me Bccode error recovery message. Now I see a few verical lines on some screens , along with periodic error messages on different applications. Trying to check if driver needs updating or has any errors. Any suggestions at this point?

Report •

#68
September 2, 2009 at 10:49:51
I'm also experncing trouble with firefox and explorer closing unexpectidaely. Tried to download driver detective but failed.

Report •

#69
September 2, 2009 at 11:27:05
please anyone with any suggestions please help

Report •

#70
September 2, 2009 at 14:00:48
You must have hardware problems. Now that you have a copy of WinXP you could replace the motherboard with a similar one that has integrated graphics. You can getby for less than $30 that way.

If interested let me know and I will post links.


Report •

#71
September 2, 2009 at 16:38:42
yes i'm interested, just give me instructions on what to buy

Report •

#72
September 2, 2009 at 17:16:49
The link below is for a compatible motherboard. Your processor & heatsink will work as well as your memory. The graphics are integrated. Shipping is free.

The board is mATX, which means it is smaller than your existing board. You will need to move some standoffs in the case in order to get the screw holes to line up.

You will also need some thermal paste for the CPU. You can get that locally or at the same vendor.

Post back after you get the board if you need help with installing it. You may need to download all the drivers if no CD comes with the board.

http://3btech.net/asa7somow26d.html


Report •

#73
September 2, 2009 at 20:07:41
Thank you for all your help, I just purchased the motherboard. Once I get it I'll send you a message for assistance. Again, thank you for your help and patience.

Report •

#74
September 3, 2009 at 00:55:24
You are welcome.

Report •

#75
September 5, 2009 at 09:19:29
Good morning just received the mother board, can you guide me please with the installation.

Report •

#76
September 5, 2009 at 10:02:14
anyone welling to help?

Report •

#77
September 5, 2009 at 12:54:40
I'm back manny

First thing you should do before removing the old motherbaord is to go into Device manager and remove as much motherboard hardware as you can. Don't remove your printers, for instance. Remove things like the network adapter, parallel ports, com ports, sound, etc.

Then shutdown and unplug the computer.

Remove all external cables from the computer and then all wiring and add in cards connected to the motherboard.

Remove all the screws going though the motherboard.

Depending on your case you might need to remove the power supply too. Lift the motherboard out and place on the foam that the new board came with. Remove the heatsink carefully using a flat blade screwdriver to push down and out on the locks on both sides. Pay attention to the direction the heatsink is facing. There are two possible ways to install but only ONE right way. There is a step in the bottom of the HS that has to go the right way.

Now lift the lock on the CPU socket completely up and lift the CPU straight up. Take care to not bend any of the pins. The CPU only has one way to go in too. One corner has a pin missing.

Remove the memory from the old board and set aside.

Now, clean off all the goop on the CPU and the HS. Use solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner. Now set the NEW motherboard on the foam and reverse the procedure. Install the CPU first. Should drop right in without any force. Then apply the thermal paste according to the link I am going to place at the bottom of this post. Install the HSink by looking the inner latch first. Then while securing the HS completely flat and in line use the flat blade screw driver to first depress the latch and then steer it inward until it captures the tang on the socket. Connect the HS fan to the header marked HS fan or CPU fan. Install the memory.

Now you need to hold the motherboard in the install position and see which metal stand offs in the case are right and which you may need to remove or reposition. One standoff under each screw hole in the motherboard and no where else.

Now remove the board and with the case on its side place cardboard or the board box on top of the opening. Connect ONLY the following items. The 20 pin power connector and the square four pin power connector. The monitor and keyboard. If the power supply has an switch on it turn it on. Turn on the monitor. Take a flat blad screw driver and momentarily touch the two pins marked power switch. The motherboard should now start up. Hit delete on the keyboard to enter the BIOS. Go to PC Health and observe the temperatures for a few minutes. If temps are less than 50C then go back to the first screen in the BIOS and set the date and time. Now shut down using the PSU switch or pulling the plug.

Install the board in the case and make all connections according to the manual.

When booting this time enter the BIOS screens again and set the drives to auto the boot order to floppy, CD then HD.

Go to integrated peripherals and disable any you don't use. Parallel and com ports come to mind.

Save and exit. Now allow the computer to boot to Windows. When messages for found new hardware appear hit Esc each time. After Windows settles down install the drivers off the CD that came with the board. Then reboot.

This post is extremely long so I will stop here. Any questions, post back.

EDIT

I forgot a link for the thermal paste. This site isn't the best for paste but OK. It also shows the correct method to install the heat sink. Your board is a Socket A or 462.


Report •

#78
September 5, 2009 at 13:42:51
I 'm now trying to turn on the system, The green board light is on , and the system gives me a short beep and turns on for 5 sec then shuts off. Any suggestions

Report •

#79
September 5, 2009 at 13:58:16
The short beep is good. Do you have the board outside the case?

Report •

#80
September 5, 2009 at 14:03:16
no, its in

Report •

#81
September 5, 2009 at 14:11:53
Did you test it out of the case like I described? Did you check for errant metal standoffs?

Report •

#82
September 5, 2009 at 14:51:43
No, to tell u the truth I had most done before u posted the message. There is no metal standoffs

Report •

#83
September 5, 2009 at 17:31:08
I followed your instruction all over again, the only thing I was not able to do is upload the stuff u told me about from old mother board. Which one is the 4 pin power connector? When I tried again to turn on system I got a short beep with system on for 5 sec then turned off. What should i do now? Thankls

Report •

#84
September 5, 2009 at 19:25:16
r u still there?

Report •

#85
September 5, 2009 at 20:10:06
If you have no metal standoffs then are you sure the ports that stick out the back of the case align without any twisting of the board.

If the case has raised bosses instead of standoffs then you have a cheap case. You should install fibre washers between the board and the case wherever the board comes in contact with the case. Place a dab of glue on the fibre washer and set over the screw hole and let the glue dry.

The reason for doing that is because the board may be shorting out on the case. The raised bosses are generally too big and may allow parts of the board to touch metal that aren't supposed to be.

Did any red or brown washers come with the board?

In the meantime, now that you have everything connected remove the board from the case but leave things connected. Try booting with the board setting on cardboard outside the case. If it then boots you will then know it was shorting out on the bosses.


Report •

#86
September 5, 2009 at 20:18:54
I'm currently trying to boot from outside the case, for a few tries was getting the same results as above, but now a get no beeps with the rest as above. What should I do?

Report •

#87
September 5, 2009 at 20:26:32
Then take it down to the bare essentials as described in my long post. If you no longer are getting the one beep then try removing all RAM and booting. You should get a different audible error code. Take care to support the board when removing and installing RAM.

Does the board have a place for a square 4 pin connector to plug in near the CPU? Does your power supply have that type of connector?

Is the CPU fan turning when you try to boot?

Did you apply thermal compound according to the link?


Report •

#88
September 5, 2009 at 20:37:25
removed the ram, it gave me the same beep as before then shut off. to the left of cpu a blue square which says usb power has 4 pin holes. The cpu fan is running when try to reboot but shuts off with system. I applied a thin layer of paste all over cpu after cleaning it with acetone. What should i do next?

Report •

#89
September 5, 2009 at 21:13:06
r u still there? sorry for the bother.

Report •

#90
September 6, 2009 at 06:46:35
This is really getting pathetic.

How to Bench Test Your System


Report •

#91
September 6, 2009 at 08:57:27
I did all whats stated but still unsuccessful, do u think a short hit the MB

Report •

#92
September 6, 2009 at 10:04:37
manny

Explain what you did, don't just say you did what was stated.

Did you remove the board and try running it with ONLY the minimal hardware connected? No hard drives or CD drives. No case wiring. Nothing but the power connections from the power supply to the board, monitor, RAM (use only one stick), keyboard, CPU with heatsink/fan.

Start the board by momentarily touching the two pins for the power button with a screw driver.

Are you sure you installed the heatsink correctly?


Report •

#93
September 6, 2009 at 10:40:41
originally before your post yesterday I had installed all the components of pc and placed it in the case, I tried to start the pc, it started for 5 sec with a short beep and cpu fan running then shut off. After your first post yesterday I disconnected the connections and took the MB out of case re-did the thermal paste application , made sure cpu and heat sink placed correctly , and connected the 1 memory bar, the cpu fan the 20 pin power supply , the monitor and mouse. Ran the system by placing flat screw driver on power supply pins, the system again will turn on for 5 sec with a short beep while cpu fan running then shuts off, the monitor has no info on it and its light near the power botton flickers green and yellow. I tried switching memory cards in diff slots but still got same result as before. Saw the pathetic post by jam, followed the instructions again but same results again. I appreciate your help and patience, as you can tell I'm a newbie at this so bare with me.

Report •

#94
September 6, 2009 at 11:50:49
Othehill, do you have any other suggestions?

Report •

#95
September 6, 2009 at 11:52:12
You never posted what memory you have. If you have memory that is clocked at 100 and the jumpers on the board are set for 133 that could cause the 5 second startup.

Look at Page 19 of your manual and set the jumpers for CPU and RAM at 100MHz. the blue indicates the actual jumper. Pull off and place as shown in the lower left corner.

If your processor and/or RAM are meant to run faster we can deal with that later.


Report •

#96
September 6, 2009 at 11:58:39
Othehill, my memory are 512 MB,DDR-333B DIMM,N, and a DM 256 MB 32X64 DDR266,S

Report •

#97
September 6, 2009 at 12:25:44
I switched the jumpers to both 100MHz but getting same result 5 sec start then shuts off. Anything else I should do?

Report •

#98
September 6, 2009 at 13:31:29
I think my foolish error the beginning of yesterday shorted the MB because I placed in case and powered it with out properly mounting it.

Report •

#99
September 6, 2009 at 13:39:07
Try your other stick of RAM instead. Are you getting the single beep at start up? Do you have all the case wiring disconnected?

No drives or cables connected?


Report •

#100
September 6, 2009 at 13:50:48
The single beep is at start up right away. All the case wiring are disconnected. When I placed the 512 RAM in alone as you suggested it turned on without a beep for 5 sec then shut off. I placed the 256 Ram in again alone and it turned on once again with short beep and shutoff after 5sec.

Report •

#101
September 6, 2009 at 14:31:13
Check page 22 of the manual to verify you have the clrCMOS jumper in the RUN position. If currently in the run position then try clearing the CMOS by momentarily moving the jumper to the other position and then back again. Unplug the power supply when doing that.

Keep ONLY the 256MB stick of RAM in.


Report •

#102
September 6, 2009 at 23:44:52
there are no cmos jumpers in the area where the diagram maps it to be. I removed the battery and tried to run system but same results as before.

Report •

#103
September 7, 2009 at 00:04:13
Hi
do clean the system again after un pluging all hardware, and then put back them all.remove battery and try turning your system,before that pl check your sd /ddr ram,change slot,
change battery if needed,change your SMPS
it will solve your problem
afte that try upgrade your bios and drivers

Report •

#104
September 7, 2009 at 08:49:58
Othehill,
I did remove all hardwear yesterday and battery, r e-installed , switched ram slots while testing but got same results. the smps is turning on with its fan too. How can I tell if its a battery problem or smps problem for sure? Any other suggestions?

Report •

#105
September 7, 2009 at 11:44:09
Do u think there is problem with MB that could be covered with manufacturer warranty? I feel like this is leading to dead end.

Report •

#106
September 7, 2009 at 14:57:00
The CMOS battery is only used to hold BIOS settings when power is interrupted to the board. When the power to the power supply is on then you don't even need a battery in there.

I am concerned about your statement about no clear CMOS jumpers. Check the motherboard model against what I linked to. There should be a sticker on the board and also printed on the board.

The board you bought is long out of manufacturer's warranty. 3BTech may stand behind it, I don't know.

Right now I am wondering what board you have.


Report •

#107
September 7, 2009 at 16:30:47
the model is the correct one A7N266-VM , my board is missing those two blue jumpers. Based on what I see in the diagram . What should I do?

Report •

#108
September 7, 2009 at 17:35:04
The jumpers may not be blue. Does your old board have any jumpers on it. All are interchangeable.

Remove a jumper from the old board and install it in the run position on the new board. Then try to boot again.


Report •

#109
September 7, 2009 at 17:40:14
The CPU & memory speed jumper settings are evidently wrong in the manual. There is an addendum to the manual that appears to be the opposite of what the manual shows. Look the board over for any numbers for the pin locations.

The link below is for the addendum. The second download on that screen. Use the Global button to download.

http://support.asus.com/download/do...


Report •

#110
September 7, 2009 at 19:41:04
Followed the adjustments to jumpers , and switched the ram around too with same results as before. Any other ideas? Thanks.

Report •

#111
September 7, 2009 at 20:02:02
Then you placed a jumper on the cmos run position then?

Try clearing the CMOS with the jumper while computer is unplugged. If that doesn't help then contact the vendor to see if they will issue an RMA. Don't tell them you think you shorted out the board.


Report •

#112
September 7, 2009 at 20:20:23
This MB don't have a cmos jumper, I took the battery off for 5min and put it back but no success. I'm going to try to see if 3btech can replace it.

Report •

#113
September 7, 2009 at 20:22:36
Should I get another similar MB if they don't exchange it for me, you live and learn, I've learned many lessons in MB installation now.

Report •

#114
September 7, 2009 at 21:23:41
That board has integrated graphics and the best chipset of that generation. Get the same one. If they don't have anymore post back for further help.

Report •

#115
September 7, 2009 at 22:08:44
Hi
1] pl remove mother board and refix it make shure it is not shorting anyware
2] shange your smps and check

Report •

#116
September 8, 2009 at 08:58:05
The smps is turning on fine, and the fan is running. Its a LC 300ATX 115/230V, 7/4 A 60/50hz type. Do you think its a compatibility problem with smps?

Report •

#117
September 8, 2009 at 12:56:17
I just sent the MB back to 3btech, hopefully I'll get a working one soon.

Report •

#118
September 8, 2009 at 13:22:18
The SMPS as you call it (we call them PSU's) is garbage. Why did it take 116 responses before you mentioned it? Everything you describe points to a bad PSU. I highly doubt there was anything wrong with the board.

Report •

#119
September 8, 2009 at 13:28:36
What is a good psu for this type of MB?

Report •

#120
September 8, 2009 at 14:07:52
just got the MB back from post office, please tell me is it for sure a PSU problem?

Report •

#121
September 8, 2009 at 15:11:17
Any one available to help?

Report •

#122
September 8, 2009 at 15:26:10
No one could say for sure that the PSU is the problem. I can state with come confidence that your old board was running with that PSU when you dismantled it. Furthermore, the issues associated with the computer seemed to be graphics card/chip related.

While I would agree with jam that your current power supply isn't the greatest I believe you shorted out something on the board by installing it without insulating washers. Your case is also junk and I told you that 90 responses ago. That said, You should be able to make it work.

You never did state if you have any fiber washers to use? They MAY have come with a motherboard.

As far as the power supply goes you could get a new one but I didn't recommend anything earlier due to your budget constraints.

What did you do at the post office? Get the package back?

Did you get an RMA number from the vendor prior to returning the board? That is mandatory.


Report •

#123
September 8, 2009 at 15:41:22
yes I was going to ship it out today,but decided not to send it out yet because of what jam posted. I got the RMA# and 3btech told me that I have 90 day warranty on the MB. When I originally placed the new board in case there were a few washers and brass screws placed under the new MB, but I'm not sure if any part of the board touched the case during activation. Now, what do you recommend me doing?

Report •

#124
September 8, 2009 at 17:41:09
1. you do NOT need fiber washers when mounting a board, but if you do use them, they should go between the board & screwheads, not the board & standoffs.

2. the jumpers MUST be set correctly - ALL the jumpers. Check your manaul & make sure that they're all in their default positions. The CPU & DRAM should be set to 133MHz (cap on pins 1-2). OtH posted the addendum which shows the proper placement. And make sure the Clear CMOS jumper is set correctly. It's located near the end of the primary (blue) IDE socket & is labeled CLRTC.

3. when installing the CPU & heatsink, you MUST do it correctly! You only need a tiny dab of paste about the size of a grain of rice & it should be applied to the CPU core only. In case you don't know, the core is the tiny square or rectangle in the center of the CPU:

http://ptgmedia.pearsoncmg.com/imag...

Also, the heatsink MUST be positioned correctly. If you install it backwards, the bottom of the heatsink won't make full contact with the core, the CPU will overheat almost immediately & the system will shutdown. Worse case scenario - the CPU will immediately fry. This pic shows how the heatsink must be installed & why installing it the wrong way will muck things up:

http://www.targetpcinc.com/dhtml/im...

And make sure the CPU cooling fan is connected to the CPU_FAN header. If you plug it into the wrong header, the BIOS won't detect a cooling fan & will immediately shutdown the system to prevent the CPU from frying.

4. Once you're confident that the above are done correctly, install a stick of RAM in DIMM 1 only. Use the DDR266, not the DDR333.

5. place the board on a non-conductive surface, connect the 20-pin main ATX plug from the power supply, the monitor cable & the keyboard. Make sure to use a keyboard with a PS/2 plug...do NOT use a USB keyboard.

6. switch on the monitor & the power supply, then use the screwdriver trick to jumpstart the board.

If it still doesn't boot, the problem is either the PSU or the board. My money is still on the PSU as being the culprit.


Report •

#125
September 8, 2009 at 19:52:07
There is no Clear CMOS jumper in the location you indicated in message. When I look at the manual with the diagram of MB there is clearly two blue jumpers located at the mentioned position but not on my board. The rest of what you mentioned above has been done without resolution to problem. Do you think the CMOS jumpers absence is the cause of all the trouble?

Report •

#126
September 8, 2009 at 20:31:16
jam

I assume you haven't read every response in this thread. The OP has a case with raised bosses instead of standoffs. In that case it IS appropriate to use insulating washers between to board and the mounting plate. The bosses on some of those types of cases are an inch wide and can easily short out the board. Placing washers on certain screws will negate the intended grounding at that point. Some screw holes have a ring of solder around them that is intended to serve as a ground for one or more layers of the PCB. IMHO i wouldn't recommend ever using washers between the screw head and the board.

Of course, I also wouldn't recommend a case that doesn't use standoffs.

manny79

You indicated above that your board had the three pins but didn't have any jumper on any of those three pins. Is that wrong? Did I misunderstand you?

On page 22 of your manual the jumper is indicated just to the right of the IDE connectors. Between them and the battery. Are you saying there are no pins there?


Report •

#127
September 8, 2009 at 20:58:22
yes , there are no pins or jumpers there, I've been looking since yesterday on the board and manual thinking that I over looked or I misunderstood you guys, but the fact is there is no pins there, and when I look at the manual there is two blue dots on the drawing in the area you indicated to me, but they are not on my board.

Report •

#128
September 8, 2009 at 21:31:48
manny

I just noticed your #123 response. "there were a few washers and brass screws placed under the new MB"

Way back at the beginning of this thread you indicated that you didn't have an standoffs under your original motherboard. If that is the case then you shouldn't be placing any under the new motherboard either. Doing so will distort the board. I am not sure what to make of this now.

Look at the links below and determine which type of case you have. If you are supposed to use standoffs they come in various lengths. Normally standoffs come with the case, not the motherboard.

http://www.amazon.com/Motherboard-S...

http://www.sysopt.com/forum/attachm...

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/dire...


Report •

#129
September 8, 2009 at 21:43:32
I had brass and plastic standoff under the old MB, when I first placed the new MB in the case I placed the standoffs according to the size of the new MB. After your first posting with directions on how to install the new MB I took the new MB out of case and unhooked all my work and redid every thing according to your instructions.

Now, with regards to the CMOS jumpers are their absence the cause of my troubles? I'm trying to determine if their is a strong possibility that the MB is the problem. If it is I'll be sending it out tomorrow to 3btech.


Report •

#130
September 8, 2009 at 21:56:14
How did you determine the model number of the board you received? Is it printed on the PCB or on a sticker. Also, is there a version number? Might be on a corner of the PCB.

To answer your question about the CLRTC jumper. Yes, if a jumper is included that was set to have a run position and that jumper is not in place then the board will not run.

There are some boards made with only two pins to clear the CMOS and they supply you with a jumper that is only used for clearing and doesn't remain on any pins.

My problem is that the manual from Asus shows the CLRTC jumpers and you say they aren't there.

That leads me to believe that either there was a major change in the layout in one of the versions of the board, or you may not actually have what you think your have.

Are there any other jumpers on the board that you can't identify?

Does the layout of the rest of the board correspond to the manual?


Report •

#131
September 8, 2009 at 22:07:31
The model number of the board is placed on a sticker A7N266-VM/AA . All the other jumpers are present on the board as in the manual. The lay out of my MB is identical to the manual minus the CMOS jumpers.

Report •

#132
September 8, 2009 at 22:33:38
Then it is possible they just eliminated the jumpers in favor of making you remove the battery instead. Save a few pennies. I am speculating here.

The boards may have been made for an OEM vendor and they are now surplus.

Now that I know you have standoffs I am not convinced you have shorted out the board. You told me before that you didn't have any standoffs. You don't need to use any washers in that case.

Now we may be back to the PSU. Kind of odd if it can't supply enough power to a new motherboard that is basically the same as what you had. That said you might as well RMA the board now. When the replacement comes hold the board in place in the case to verify ALL the jumpers are located under screw holes and ONLY under screw holes.

Then bench test as described. If the board won't fire up there are only a few items that could be at fault. Bad board, bad CPU, bad RAM, bad PSU.

Removing all RAM should produce an audible error. If that happens then it would point to the RAM.


Report •

#133
September 8, 2009 at 22:53:48
I'm going to call 3btech tech support tomorrow to see what they'll say. Most likely I'll send the MB back for replacement. Once I get the new one I"ll post results of my bench trial. Thanks for all your help.

Report •

#134
September 9, 2009 at 14:07:41
"When I look at the manual with the diagram of MB there is clearly two blue jumpers located at the mentioned position but not on my board"

You do realize that this board has numerous sets of jumpers, right? I don't know where you're looking but there is only ONE jumper at the location that I'm talking about. I just zoomed in on it & I can see it clearly...it's above the blue IDE socket, to the right of the green LED, below the CMOS battery & it's clearly labeled CLRTC. In addition to that, there are jumpers near the CPU socket, near the AGP slot & near the boards buzzer/speaker (lower right corner of the board). ALL of these jumpers have to be checked against the settings provided in the manual.

"Do you think the CMOS jumpers absence is the cause of all the trouble?"

Only if they were supposed to be there & they were broken off. And why do you say two jumpers? Regardless, even if the jumper pins were removed for some reason during production, the PCB in that area should STILL have the CLRTC label on it.

"The rest of what you mentioned above has been done without resolution to problem"

I went into detail deliberately because I didn't see it spelled out for you. If you did any of the things I mentioned incorrectly when installing the heatsink, you will experience exactly the symptoms you've mentioned...a quick spin of the fans, then shutdown. The heatsink can NOT be backwards, you MUST use the correct amount of thermal paste & you MUST connect the fan lead to the proper header. Get any of those things wrong & the system will not boot. Also, since socket A CPUs have an exposed core, they need to be handled with care because they can be easily cracked when the heatsink is clipped in place.

"The model number of the board is placed on a sticker A7N266-VM/AA"

You said your board was an A7N266-VM, now you're saying it's an A7N266-VM/AA. Make sure you're looking at the correct manual because ASUS has a listing for both boards. Here's what the "AA" means:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/other/...

"I'm going to call 3btech tech support tomorrow to see what they'll say"

I wouldn't expect to get too much out of them. Basically, all they are is a store. It would be like calling Kmart & asking the clerk in electronics for tech support. You should be contatcing ASUS. BTW, did the board come with an I/O plate, cables, manual & driver CD, or was it just a bare board? (just curious)

Although this whole discussion is a confusing mess, I'm still leaning toward the crappy L & C PSU as the problem. You may wanna read this:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.ph...

Enjoy!


Report •

#135
September 9, 2009 at 14:19:59
jam

Asustek doesn't show a special manual for the AA model. I described above exactly where to look for the jumper. The OP does know what jumpers are because there are jumpers to set the clock speed and I had him set them.

I can only guess that for some reason they eliminated the CLRTC pins.


Report •

#136
September 10, 2009 at 09:13:35
I spoke to 3btech tech support yesterday, they said that those pins might have been removed by asus to save money, he also said the my problem could bee a faulty MB, CPU, ram , so he recommended to send MB back for replacement. Once I get it I will post my bench start outcome. Thanks for all your help.

Report •

#137
September 21, 2009 at 11:59:11
just got a new board, turned on and remained on but nothing showing up on screen.

Report •

#138
September 21, 2009 at 12:34:47
anyone available to help, I'm trying to bench start my new MB, this new one gave me two beeps and started up without shutting off , but not getting anything on monitor screen.

Report •

#139
September 21, 2009 at 13:52:47
I changed the jumpers around from default to both 100 hz , when I placed the screw driver on power pins got a spark. Changed the jumpers once more to default , then to 100 hz again ; this time no sparks came out, MB turns on and fan remains running but still no bios screen appears. Any suggestions?

Report •

#140
September 21, 2009 at 15:07:29
Are you using the on board video?

If there are TWO ports for a monitor try the other one.

Is the monitor plugged in and turned on?

What color light is on the monitor?


Report •

#141
September 21, 2009 at 15:33:45
Don't know what you mean by on board video.
There is only one port for the monitor.
The monitor is plugged in and turned on with green light on at first ,then turns yellow, also the light for the keyboard turns on for a second when MB is turned on then lights on key board go off.
Do the sparks that came off power supply pins mean I burned the MB?

Report •

#142
September 21, 2009 at 16:06:59
I wondered if you had an add in video card that you might be trying.

If you are getting the 2 beeps then the board is probably OK.

Did you install the CPU right? How about thermal paste between the CPU and the heat sink?

Got the CPU fan connected to the header that is marked CPU fan?

A little spark when touching the two pins with a screw driver is nothing to worry about.


Report •

#143
September 21, 2009 at 16:21:00
initially I got the two beeps , now I don't get any beeps at all, but the MB stays on with fans running and no bios screen.
I put the cpu in a way it fit easily without force, I'm assuming it's the right way. Reapplied new thermal paste , connected the HS then fan.
Originally when I got the sparks and the two beeps I had not placed the memory stick correctly, after I placed it and changed the jumpers around no sparks came out , no beeps are heard as well, and still black screen; monitor with yellow light.

Report •

#144
September 21, 2009 at 16:51:45
Any suggestions now?

Report •

#145
September 21, 2009 at 19:08:55
Please is there anyone with suggestions on what could be wrong?

Report •

#146
September 21, 2009 at 20:29:43
You didn't say you had memory installed wrong. The spark you mention must have been more than just a little one.

My mistake on the two beeps you mentioned above. Two beeps could be a memory error.

Are you bench testing the board outside the case?

If you are not getting a Single beep at start up then you may have damaged the motherboard.

After all the above troubles how could you allow memory to be installed wrong?

Examine the motherboard memory sockets to see if there are any burn marks on them. Did you just have ONE stick of RAM inserted at first?


Report •

#147
September 21, 2009 at 22:23:01
there was one stick installed but not placed all the way in place.
There are no burn marks.
The sparks were big.

Report •

#148
September 22, 2009 at 00:31:57
Did the sparks come from anywhere on the board other than where you touched with the screwdriver?


Likely

Practice makes perfect but only if you practice perfectly!


Report •

#149
September 22, 2009 at 00:35:14
Have you tried the other memory stick? If not try that and see if and how many beeps you get. Do you connect your monitor to the motherboard or to a video card you attached to the motherboard?

Likely

Practice makes perfect but only if you practice perfectly!


Report •

#150
September 22, 2009 at 08:23:31
No, the sparks were only where I touched with the screw driver.
I tried the other memory stick, got no beeps.
Connect monitor to video card I attached to MB.

Report •

#151
September 22, 2009 at 10:32:05
Try the other memory slot with the second stick of memory.

Report •

#152
September 22, 2009 at 10:45:23
I tried using the other memory stick in the other slot, but still no BIOS screen. I don't know now if the sparks caused MB to burn yesterday. Every thing else seems to be working. The only things that come in mind now are the memory or cpu problems.

Report •

#153
September 22, 2009 at 12:53:05
Placing the RAM in wrong (backward?) probably fried something.

Report •

#154
September 22, 2009 at 13:28:47
I believe so, I just returned the MB and getting a refund. I just bought a new P4 PC for 59.00 . Thank you for all your help, I learned my lesson the hard way, I suck in pc building. Thanks again for all your help if things come up I'll text you guys. You all were great.

Report •

#155
September 22, 2009 at 17:04:57
Well I hope you remember the mistakes so you don't repeat them.

Report •

#156
September 25, 2009 at 16:59:37
Manny, you need to start a new thread for your RAM issues on the Emachines. I removed your last post.

Report •


Ask Question