|When I search using: hl-dt-st dvd+-rw gh50n ata |
I get very few "hits".
Is that exactly what you see in Device Manager - DVD/CD-Rom drives, or did you make one or more typos ?
(double click on Computer - select System properties in the top bar - the link to Device Manager is at the left on the resulting page.)
Is the model flagged with a yellow ? or a red X in Device Manager ?
The drive was made by Hitachi for LG.
I have two of them on one computer.
They show up in Device Manager as:
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-440B ATA device
HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55L ATA device
They're both EIDE "bulk" drive models, combo DVD burner drives.
They show up in
- Computer as DVD RW drives.
- Disk Management as CD-ROM drives.
The drive model on it's label may be different from what is shown in Device Manager, or it may have a "bulk" model number, for drives that are sold merely in an anti-static plastic bag, rather than in a fancy cardboard box.
It may be the same as this model except it has a "bulk" model number:
Your model has the same "22x DVD±R Write Speed".
If it is connected by a SATA data cable ...
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
If it is connected by an IDE data cable.....
The data cable must have 80 wires in order for the drive to be able to achieve it's max speeds.
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
80 wire data cables must have the proper end connector connected to the mboard IDE header - usually that's blue, but in any case it's the one farther from the middle connector on a 3 connector data cable.
After you have checked the cables....
When it's power cable connector is connected and when the computer is running, the drive is defective or damaged if....
- it will not eject it's tray at any time when you press the button on the front of it when the computer is running
- the led on the front of it does not light up briefly when you insert a disk and then retract the tray when the computer is running .
- the led does light up when you insert a disk and then retract the tray when the computer is running, but it says on for a longer time, or blinks off and on for a longer time.
If that doesn't help.....
"Then I re- installed my windows Vista from Dell."
Did you install the main chipset drivers for the mboard that are probably listed in the available Driver and other downloads for your model, AFTER Setup was finished ?
If you didn't, it's possible for an optical drive to work at first during Setup and then stop working in Windows itself, if Windows does not have the proper info .about the main chipset that the main chipset drivers supply (main chipset "drivers" are usually mostly or all *.inf files about the capabilities of the main chipset) .
Whenever you load Windows from a regular Windows CD (or DVD) from scratch, after Setup is finished you must load the drivers for the mboard, particularly the main chipset drivers, in order for Windows to have the proper drivers for and information about your mboard hardware, including it's AGP or PCI-E, ACPI, USB 2.0 if it has it, and hard drive controller support. If you have a generic system and have the CD that came with the mboard, all the necessary drivers are on it. If you load drivers from the web, brand name system builders and mboard makers often DO NOT have the main chipset drivers listed in the downloads for your model - in that case you must go to the maker of the main chipset's web site, get the drivers, and load them.
" it installed a few programs. Windows update was doing its thing and later on the drive stopped working. Device status says: This divice cannot start. (Code 10)"
What programs did you install ?
There wouldn't likely be anything installed by Windows Update that would cause your problem, directly.
- installing a third party burning program, or more than one of them, could cause your problem.
- if you installed any third party anti-malware program that has one or more resident module - a part that runs all the time looking for suspicious activity - it is a VERY good idea to DISABLE that (those) resident module(s) from running, BEFORE you install software yourself, or BEFORE you let Windows install major updates such as SP1 or SP2 updates for Vista, because they sometimes interfere with software installing properly, and in that case you usually get no messages at all about the software not installing properly while installing it.
If you HAVE installed any third party anti-malware program, if you don't know how to disable it's resident module(s) , tell us which anti-malware software you installed.
If Windows Update DID install SP1 or SP2 updates for Vista, there will be an entry for it in Control Panel - Classic View - Programs and Features. If you DID install third party anti-malware software that has one of more resident module BEFORE that was installed, and if you did NOT install any third party burning software, DISABLE the resident module(s) , Un-install the SP1 or SP2 updates, and your combo DVD burner drive should work fine again. Then with the resident module(s) still disabled, install the SP1 or SP2 updates again, and the combo DVD burner drive will probably still work after the updates have been installed.
Also, Vista has Microsoft's Windows Defender anti-malware software built into it, and it has a resident module. I know of no problems caused by that, BUT it would be a good idea to disable it's resident module anyway, and some third party anti-malware programs CLASH with Windows Defender - in that case, Windows Defender should be disabled in the program itself - you can't un-install it.
(Installing Microsoft Security Essentials disables Windows Defender from loading it's resident module.)