Solved Help with computer freeze accompanied by strange noise

Gigabyte motherboard / Ga-h97-d3h
March 10, 2015 at 16:09:27
Specs: Windows 7 64 bit Ultimate, i7 4790 \ 24 Gb's GSKILL 1600 DDR3
Hi all,

I'm not quite sure where to post this as I'm not entirely sure what's causing the problem.

I'm running Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit on a Kingston Hyper X 120G SSD, w an i7 4790, a Gigabyte GA H97 D3H mobo (rev 3), a GTX 650Ti Boost SC, 24 GB RAM (2x8) and (2x4), and have a SeaSonic S12II 620W Bronze PSU.

This just started happening today. I was playing a game (Call Of Duty MW2) and suddenly my computer froze up accompanied by what I'd describe as a fairly loud buzzing noise, that to me sounded like some kind of rapidfire oscillating electric noise. I was wearing headphones so it sounded quite loud. The computer just hung there.

I tried Ctr + Alt + Delete to bring up Task Mgr and it wouldn't respond, so I pressed my computer's reset button. It rebooted normally. I loaded HWMonitor to see if anything was out of the ordinary. The one strange thing that I could see were the voltages, which made me suspect the PSU. The peak voltage on the 12V rail showed 32W - I'm thinking if it had actually spiked that high it would've fried my system. I rebooted to see what it would show the second time. This time it showed a peak of 81W !!! In the current voltage column (vlaue) it showed the voltages fluctuating from about 11 to as high as 18, mostly hanging around 11 to 13.

Here is just a momentary screenshot of it showing 15W:


http://s6.postimg.org/fihe37pdd/HWM...

But like I say it averages probably 11 to 13

I reloaded Call of Duty with HWMonitor open, and saw the Voltage jump up to 24W

http://s6.postimg.org/jg4nsmc6p/HWM...

It didn't freeze but I just closed out the game.

The only thing I've done to my machine recently was to add 16 GB RAM (2x8) to my system which also had 8GB (2x4), bringing it to 24GB in dual channel. I did this five days ago, but have been editing and gaming without problem for five days

I had asked advice on the RAM upgrade here, and got responses form Fingers and riider in this thread to help me.

http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...

I'm not sure if I'm on the right track with this, or what could cause the freeze and noise but I'm concerned now about doing damage.

message edited by Tim_B


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✔ Best Answer
March 10, 2015 at 17:18:30
Sure, lets see the logs but often when you change RAM you hit edge connector problems (either with the new RAM or the old one if it gets touched). An imperceptible movement can put RAM onto an area with oxide on it.

It could be worth removing all the RAM sticks, rubbing their edge connectors with a soft pencil eraser, then popping the sticks in and out a few times (to clear oxide off the sockets themselves) before pressing them home finally.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks



#1
March 10, 2015 at 16:43:39
There's not many things that make noise inside a computer. It doesn't sound like a failing or blocked fan. Is the sound coming from the speakers or the PC itself?

Does your bios have any audio alerts for overheating or voltage problems?

You have an SSD hard drive so it won't give the same failure noises that a drive with disks and bearings will but the hard drive would be my first guess. A hard drive can die or have a hiccup and freeze a system, still leaving an image on the screen. A PSU or motherboard failure is more likely to cause an immediate shutdown or reboot.

But yes, if only to rule it out, if you have another PSU you can swap in you might try that.


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#2
March 10, 2015 at 16:52:00
I don't know what caused your noise but what you are talking about are Wattages (W) which is power consumed, not Voltages (electrical pressure). The Wattage will reflect activity and if you appear to be looking at what the Value was at the time. At the column heads you will see that their Max values have been higher.
"The peak voltage on the 12V rail showed 32W". This is mixed terminology - the two are not directly related.

I'll leave others to comment in detail but as a very general statement noises that directly from the computer without headphones are more indicative of a hardware situation than anything you hear through the phones.

It sounds more likely that your game crashed and, maybe, picked up a repeated tone from the game. I doubt this is damaging.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks

message edited by Derek


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#3
March 10, 2015 at 16:52:54
Regardless of the type of drive you have too - perhaps take the time and trouble to safeguard "all" your personal files etc. - off the system entirely. Copy them to dv d at least; if possible an external hard drive too.

Then if the worst should happen and even the SSD drives should fail... those precious files will be safe elsewhere?


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Related Solutions

#4
March 10, 2015 at 17:02:45
The sound is coming through my headphones (speakers). It's not from inside the case. I did neglect to mention that I have HDD's and that my games are loaded on a WD Black drive - I rarely mention the HDD's in posts because they have almost all media only. But int this case the games are running on them. However, this is not a failing drive sound at all. The noise is completely through my headphones.

And just after posting this I've been searching other forums and I see that many others have had this problem, and it seems to come down to two causes - overheating or memory problems (bad or unstable memory)

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers...

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/3...

I just ran Furmark GPU test for 10 minutes to see what temps are like on the GPU and they peak under threshold at 82C - my GPU max is 97C.

I have my BIOS set to warn of CPU overheating if it hits 70C and I keep Real Temp running and it is set to shutdown system if CPU core temp (not system temp) hits 78C. But I've never seen my CPU go higher than 62C and that is under a Prime 95 test. It's more like 57 \ 58 in real app's like heavy rendering.

Given the recent memory upgrade and the other posts I'm reading, I suspect something with memory, as the two kits had different speeds and latencies and I'm running in XMP. After getting them to what seemed stable,and in dual channel, I intended to run memtest, but I couldn't get it to work. I must be doing something wrong on the memtest install to USB, because even after changing boot order to USB first, it just doesn't recognize the USB as bootable. Do you have any experience with memtest?


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#5
March 10, 2015 at 17:07:13
Lets see what is in your logs.

Please download Farbar Recovery Scan Tool and save it onto your Desktop. If your default download location is not the Desktop, drag it out of it's location onto the Desktop.
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/dow...
If we have to run Farbar more than once, refer this SS.
http://i.imgur.com/yUxNw0j.gif
Note: You need to run the version compatible with your system. If you are not sure which version applies to your system download both of them and try to run them. Only one of them will run on your system, that will be the right version.
Double-click to run it. When the tool opens click Yes to disclaimer.
Press Scan button.
It will make a log (FRST.txt) on the Desktop.
The first time the tool is run, it makes also another log (Addition.txt).
The logs are large, upload them using this, or upload to a site of your choosing. No account needed. Give us the links please.
http://www.zippyshare.com/
Instructions on how to use ZippyShare.
http://i.imgur.com/naG6t2T.gif
http://i.imgur.com/Vi9ZdIh.gif
http://i.imgur.com/1IZu5kP.gif


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#6
March 10, 2015 at 17:07:31
Derek you're right - I don't know how I gapped on that. Yes I understand the difference between Watts and Volts, so yes my bad.

trvlr - I have all drives and data backed up to USB drives, and do so regularly

EDIT:
Thanks Johnw - I'll run the tests and report back

message edited by Tim_B


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#7
March 10, 2015 at 17:18:30
✔ Best Answer
Sure, lets see the logs but often when you change RAM you hit edge connector problems (either with the new RAM or the old one if it gets touched). An imperceptible movement can put RAM onto an area with oxide on it.

It could be worth removing all the RAM sticks, rubbing their edge connectors with a soft pencil eraser, then popping the sticks in and out a few times (to clear oxide off the sockets themselves) before pressing them home finally.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#8
March 10, 2015 at 17:28:45
@ Johnw - the results

FRST.txt
http://www13.zippyshare.com/v/nMURn...

Addition.txt
http://www24.zippyshare.com/v/Tjqsv...

@ Derek - would using 99 % isopropyl on the edge connectors accomplish the same thing, or should I go with the pencil eraser trick?


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#9
March 10, 2015 at 18:03:11
From your Farbar log.
"The GhFlt service failed to start due"
Open CCleaner > Tools > Startup, look for GhFlt & disable. Reboot.
Lets see what happens when testing.

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#10
March 10, 2015 at 18:20:27
isopropyl would be useful on the sockets but I rather favour the rubbing effect on the edge connectors. The later has served me well but I guess it is open to opinion.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#11
March 10, 2015 at 18:28:15
Thanks Johnw

GhFlt does not appear in CCleaner > Tools > Startup.

http://s6.postimg.org/5nq8wzlf5/CCl...

I also did a Win search for it and didn't find anything. It appears to be a Gigabyte driver maybe? I couldn't find much info on it, but I did see this thread:

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index....


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#12
March 10, 2015 at 18:33:00
Thanks Tim.

Next test.
From your Farbar log.
"Error: (03/05/2015 05:03:20 PM) (Source: Application Error) (EventID: 1000) (User: )
Description: Faulting application name: vegas120.exe, version: 12.0.0.770, time stamp: 0x528d33e2"

Uninstall vegas120 using the 2 step Wise program.
Wise Program Uninstaller
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/...
http://www.freewarefiles.com/Wise-P...
http://www.freewarefiles.com/screen...
http://wisecleaner.com/wiseuninstal...


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#13
March 10, 2015 at 19:05:40
@ Johnw

I installed WPU but Vegas didn't show up there. It is in Programs and Features and Revo Uninstaller Pro, so I used Revo Pro to uninstall and clean up remaining Files and Reg entries.

Scanned again with Farbar

FRST.txt
http://www81.zippyshare.com/v/x1NPD...

Addition.txt
http://www43.zippyshare.com/v/cK6gb...

While I think the Farbar scans may detect issues that need attention, I'm not sure these would be related to the freeze and buzzing noise problem, based on what other threads I'm reading related to the problem. I'm sure it has value, but is it related?

I'm thinking I'm going to take Derek's advice here, shut down, and clean the RAM contacts. It just seems suspiciously coincidental that I would make the RAM upgrade recently and then have this problem. That and the fact that other s report thsi problem while gaming, related to overheating and RAM issues.

So I'm going to shut down and tackle that now. Thanks Johnw


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#14
March 10, 2015 at 19:14:01
"Revo Uninstaller Pro, so I used Revo Pro to uninstall and clean up remaining Files and Reg entries"
Perfect, I forgot to look if you had an uninstaller.

"but is it related?"
No idea at this stage, process of elimination.

"I'm thinking I'm going to take Derek's advice here"
Definitely.

"related to overheating"
Information about cleaning computer components
http://www.computerhope.com/cleanin...
http://www.wiscocomputing.com/artic...
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tut...
http://pcgyaan.wordpress.com/2009/0...
Getting The Grunge Out Of Your PC, Fred Langa cleans the dirtiest PC he can find, and along the way shows you how you can easily tackle yours. There are 7 pages.
http://www.informationweek.com/news...


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#15
March 10, 2015 at 19:30:25
As an aside I noticed you had YouTube Downloader (YTD) in the lists. This is reported by AdwCleaner, MalwareBytes and some others. Although I agree that this comes with unwanted goodies, I have found you can safely live with it if you want it, like this:

When downloaded (or updated) immediately run the above two programs. Let them remove everything except the program folder, that is:
C:\Program Files\GreenTree Applications

In a 64 bit machine this path will be:
C:\Program Files (x86)\GreenTree Applications

Anything else that comes back with normal use is harmless (short cuts etc).

The above is the current situation but over the years there has been some variation with what is needed or not for YTD to run.

I think malware finders have arguably been a little over sensitive about YTD provided you ensure you opt out of everything (or use Unchecky) and follow the above procedure. It was worse in the old days.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#16
March 10, 2015 at 19:34:48
"I think malware finders have arguably been a little over sensitive about YTD provided you ensure you opt out of everything (or use Unchecky) and follow the above procedure"
I agree Derek.
Tim's logs show he still has Unchecky installed.

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#17
March 10, 2015 at 19:39:00
Since the noise is coming through the speakers I doubt if it's hardware failure.

24 gig of ram is quite a bit. Even though your system can handle that much there may be some unknown side affects. Consider dropping the ram to 16 then 8 and see if the problem repeats.


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#18
March 10, 2015 at 19:47:28
DAVE
I think there might be scope for intermittent RAM troubles (for instance) causing software to get muddled. You probably recall from the past that registry error has been reported by the system, only to turn out to be RAM troubles. Your idea about the RAM quantity is well worth checking out if the problem continues.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#19
March 10, 2015 at 19:56:26
"Your idea about the RAM quantity is well worth checking out if the problem continues"
Yep, got to stay open to all suggestions.

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#20
March 10, 2015 at 21:22:04
If you have not, you might want to try a BIOS update if there is any mention of related or similar issues (though always a slight risk). I know that for the Gigabyte Z97x-UD3H I needed to update the BIOS in order to get the most out of my i5-4690K (for when I decide to OC) but before I did, I had trouble with the graphics card being recognized (GTX750Ti) so I pulled it, updated the BIOS with the onboard and then the graphics card was fine with the board. I think that the early versions of these BIOS' were a bit rushed and these MB's came out before some of the CPU's (like mine) so in this case it might be to your advantage to get the latest one.

I agree that the RAM may also be a part of it so cleaning cannot hurt to try (always try one new thing and then test or you may never know which fixed the issue or caused a new problem). I always look to match latency numbers when adding a second pair of memory sticks and I always purchase them in matched pairs to minimize any issues.

Look to your voltage read outs and if the voltages differ more than 5% from the nominal voltages then the power supply might be a problem. Voltage swings that are always swinging up and down (even if smaller amounts) may indicate a possible problem so keep HWMonitor running and stress your system (game, rendering, etc) for a while and then look at the minimum and maximum voltages to see if the voltage highs and lows differ enough to present a problem.

As mentioned, stay open to all suggestions.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#21
March 11, 2015 at 15:51:36
Hi Fingers

Thanks again for your input. That's the tack I'm taking to just try one thing at a time and see if the problem happens again. So to start I cleaned the edge connects and re-seated the sticks several times as Derek suggested.I also finally got Memtest to run and after finishing the tests there were no errors. This just means the sticks are good- it doesn't necessarily rule out a connection, conifg or associated problem that may include RAM. Just rules one thing out. So now I'm just opening COD MW2 and editing programs and trying to see if I can reproduce the problem or if it's gone. So this will take some time to troubleshoot before I feel it's resolved.If I'm good, I'm good. If not then I move on to another step to try that.

Just monitoring voltages this morning they look pretty solid. I'll keep HWMon open though and keep my eye on it.

I'll keep ya posted


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#22
March 11, 2015 at 16:19:10
Next step Tim, when you are ready.

Copy & Paste the text below ( starting closeprocesses: ), save it into Notepad on your Desktop & name it fixlist.txt
NOTE: It is important that Notepad is used. The fix will not work if Word or some other program is used.
NOTE: It is important that both files, FRST/FRST64 and fixlist.txt are in the same location or the fix will not work.
NOTICE: This script was written specifically for this user, for use on that particular machine. Running this on another machine may cause damage to your operating system.

closeprocesses:
emptytemp:
Task: {011BD075-1CB2-497D-AF88-719EA7A82329} - System32\Tasks\WINshell Event Notification => C:\Users\INTEL\AppData\Local\Temp\SBCint2.exe [2015-01-10] (Sun Micro Systems Inc.) <==== ATTENTION
Task: {22B6A48B-0680-47E1-9A98-DAEF86559796} - System32\Tasks\WINshell Event Logging => C:\Users\INTEL\AppData\Local\Temp\Dscp1.exe <==== ATTENTION
HKU\S-1-5-21-1499448806-2148776309-4228515850-1000\...\MountPoints2: {e24b1fcc-7203-11e4-bbdf-806e6f6e6963} - F:\Run.exe
SearchScopes: HKU\.DEFAULT -> DefaultScope {0633EE93-D776-472f-A0FF-E1416B8B2E3A} URL =
SearchScopes: HKU\S-1-5-19 -> DefaultScope {0633EE93-D776-472f-A0FF-E1416B8B2E3A} URL =
SearchScopes: HKU\S-1-5-20 -> DefaultScope {0633EE93-D776-472f-A0FF-E1416B8B2E3A} URL =
Handler: WSWSVCUchrome - No CLSID Value
FF Homepage: hxxp://www.google.ca/
FF Plugin: @microsoft.com/GENUINE -> disabled No File
FF Plugin-x32: @microsoft.com/GENUINE -> disabled No File
CHR StartupUrls: Default -> "https://www.google.ca/", "hxxp://www.google.com/"
S2 GhFlt; \??\C:\Windows\system32\drivers\ghflt.sys [X]
S3 VGPU; System32\drivers\rdvgkmd.sys [X]

Run FRST/FRST64 and press the Fix button just once and wait.
If for some reason the tool needs a restart, please make sure you let the system restart normally. After that, let the tool complete its run.
When finished FRST will generate a log on the Desktop (Fixlog.txt). Please Copy & Paste the contents into your reply.


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#23
April 6, 2015 at 07:42:46
I chose Derek's as best answer. Whether his advice worked or I just had some anomaly, I can't be sure, but it was the only thing I did and I have not been able to duplicate the problem after quite a while now.

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#24
April 6, 2015 at 08:56:45
Derek's suggestion (clean RAM edge connectors) is one that frequently resolves a lot of irritations; and so easily overlooked...

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#25
April 6, 2015 at 11:07:53
Thanks for the feedback - hope it stays fixed.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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