|State the make and model of your brand name system , or if it's a generic system, the make and model of the mboard.|
The former is probably on alabel on the outside of the case somewhere; the latter, at least the model is usually printed in obvious larger characters on the surface of the mboard, often in between slots.
Video built into the mboard IS NOT a video CARD.
If you are getting garbled video when you plug a monitor into the onboard video port, you may need to replace the mboard, unless the video is okay when you use a video card in aslot.
Your problem is probably a hardware problem, not a software problem.
It sounds like either -
- the video card in a slot has a poor connection. Try unplugging or switching off the AC power to the computer, remove the video card and plug it back in, make sure it's all the way down in it's slot, fasten it down with it's screw , then restore AC power and try the computer
- the video card in a slot is damaged - in that case, it often works better in Safe mode when only default VGA drivers are loaded than it does in normal mode when it's specific more sophisticated drivers are loaded.
- if the video is okay when the computer has had a chance to cool to room temp, then i'ts booted, and it's okay for a short while, then it gets garbled,
there is may be a fan on the card in a slot that is spinning too slowly or has stopped spinning, and because of that, the chip it is supposed to be cooling is getting too hot after a while. It's likely to get hotter faster when you're playing a game. If it has gotten hot too often the chip is probably damaged. and the video can no longer work properly.
In that case, if the video is okay when you first boot after the computer has cooled off, you could try replacing the fan on the card. Local places that sell a lot of computer parts have them, or you can get them on the web.
- or - the cpu may be overheating.
if the cpu fan/heatsink has mung (dust, lint, etc.) on it, clean it off, but DO NOT use a vaccuum cleaner to do that (they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity when running, and anything connected to them can discharge that to your components) - use canned air, or an air nozzle if you have access to an air compressor, or an artist's brush that can be used in small spaces, etc. It may be difficult to clean the top of the heatsink under the cpu fan - the most likely place to have mung on it - and the bottom side of the cpu fan blades unless you remove the fan. If you have a case fan, clean that too if it needs it.
With the cover still off, restore the AC power, start the computer and make sure the cpu fan spins
- if it doesn't spin, if you're sure the power supply is working okay, don't use the computer until you have found out why it doesn't spin (see next below).
- if it doesn't spin, if you're sure the power supply is working okay, don't use the computer until you have replaced it.
If it spins too slowly, and/or if it makes rattling or screeching noises, most likely to be noticed when the computer has cooled to room temp, has not been used for a while, and then is started up, the cpu fan's bearings are failing - replace it as soon as you can.
There's usually nothing wrong with the processor - cpu - unless the cpu fan failed.
If the cpu fan does not spin,
- if it's blade moves easily when you try to spin it with your finger, there may be nothing wrong with it. Try removing it and connecting it to another desktop mboard's 3 pin header for a case or power supply fan - if it spins, your processor is probably okay - if it doesn't spin your processor MAY be damaged.
- your power supply imay be failing - it producing too much or too little voltage can cause weird video symptoms - sometimes it damages other things while failing.
Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
See response 4 in this:
If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
A common problem these days is people installing a video card that requires they get a power supply with more capacity.
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD!)
You can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements.
Some power supplies have more than one +12v amperage rating - in that case you add the rated max amperages to determine the total +12v amperage rating.
A video card that requires more PS capacity than you system has often works for a while anyway, but the PS is overloaded 100% of the time and is eventually damaged and fails.
- Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components - power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.: