|emachines desktop systems have a reputation of using el-cheapo power supplies that tend to malfunction a lot more often than average. This is especially the case if the power supply brand is BESTEC, which is usually, if not always, the brand they have originally. Check the current voltage readings in the bios Setup for what is supposed to be +3.3v, +5v, and +12v - they must be within 10% of the nominal value - if any of those aren't, you must replace the power supply. |
If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
Your power supply must have at least the minumum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
Western Digital IDE (EIDE) drives often have two ways Master can be set - Master, single, or similar, for when the drive is by itself on a data cable, and Master, slave present, or similar, for when it is on a data cable with another drive set to Slave. That MUST be set correctly.
If the drive is set to cable select, it should be on the end connector of a three connector data cable if it is by itself on a data cable, not on the middle one which makes the drive seen by the bios as slave - newer bioses / mboards will often detect the drive anyway when it is on the middle connector, but you're likely to have problems in that situation because it's not on the proper connector.
It can be very hard to tell if a data cable is damaged, and you can have intermittent problems with it if it is. If you have another data cable, try using that.
80 wire data cables MUST have the proper end connector connected to the mboard - usually it's blue, but in any case, it's the one farther from the middle connector on a 3 connector data cable.
Are you seemingly getting the disk read error from the bios or from Windows ?
If that all it says?
Some error messages can only be generated by Windows / or whatever operating system.
The second stage of Setup is when it detects the hardware.
You may have a hardware problem that was preventing the second stage of Setup from even starting.
For both of running from the XP CD and for trying to boot from the installed Windows installation, you could try making sure all cards are all the way down in their slots, or if that doesn't help, removing all cards in slots not necessary for running Setup, or not necessary for the Windows installation to work.