Custom built Pc won't power on

July 4, 2014 at 14:01:53
Specs: Windows 7
I bought components for a pc and it will not power on when I press the button. The monitor simply reads "HDMI" no signal. I know it is not the monitor as it works for other devices and I know it is not the cable. The fans and LED lights work when the button is pressed but other than that, I get no response.


Using Pcpartpicker, I can confirm that no compatibility issues were found with the hardware I have chosen. Here is the build:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/fjTdrH

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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#1
July 4, 2014 at 14:22:22
Does it work if you plug the monitor into the standard connection - blue 15 pin VGA socket?

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#2
July 4, 2014 at 15:10:10
I've used the d-sub cable, if that's the 15-pin VGA cable, and the monitor still displays "no signal detected".

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#3
July 4, 2014 at 15:50:53
The VGA connector looks like this:
http://tinyurl.com/nop7ws7

I know it's hard to tell but does the computer "sound" as if it is booting up - you usually hear the HD and see its light flashing?

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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Related Solutions

#4
July 4, 2014 at 20:13:21
Did it ever work? Or are you still trying to boot for the 1st time after assembly? Have you ever built a system before? I'm guessing you didn't benchtest the components before installing them in the case. If I'm right, that's where you went wrong.

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#5
July 5, 2014 at 01:27:31
It was that VGA connector yes, and It sounds like the pc is trying to boot up, I hear something that sounds like a beep roughly 15 seconds after pressing the power switch, but it is quite quiet and isn't particularly distinct.

I couldn't find an HDD LED in the case and after some research, I concluded that the define r4 doesn't have its own HDD LED. So I cannot check for its light.

message edited by Spyrothedragon


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#6
July 5, 2014 at 01:29:51
It has never successfully booted up I am still trying to boot for the first time post-assembly.I have built one PC before, although it wasn't for myself. That one worked first time. I have not been able to benchtest the components because I do not have another system to use them in, unless there is another way?

message edited by Spyrothedragon


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#7
July 5, 2014 at 05:10:58
How to bench test:
http://www.techsupportforum.com/for...

Basically, you remove all components (leave CPU attached w/heat sink) and start with the motherboard on a piece of cardboard, attach the power supply and only install the CPU, heat sink, one stick of memory, and case speaker, on the motherboard, and use the onboard graphics. If you can boot to the BIOS set up, you set the basics, power down and add one component at a time and retest. if no boot, remove the memory and test for no memory beep tone.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#8
July 5, 2014 at 06:25:37
You should ALWAYS bench test your components BEFORE installing them in the case. As Fingers said, remove everything from the case & start over.

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#9
July 5, 2014 at 16:46:26
Have took all of the components out of the case and have CPU+heatsink, power supply and 1 stick of ram in the motherboard which I have switched out for the other for a retest. CPU fan works but no reponse shown on the monitor. HD AUDIO from the case is connected and I listened for beep tones after removing ram but I was unable to hear any kind of beep this time.

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#10
July 6, 2014 at 07:39:33
The sound does NOT come thru the HD audio, it comes from the motherboard. If your board doesn't have a built-in piezo speaker (& from looking at the pics, it apparently does not), you'll need to connect a case speaker to be able to hear the beep codes. The speaker connection at the lower right hand corner of the board, look for JFP2.

http://us.msi.com/product/mb/Z97G55...

How did you apply the thermal paste between the CPU & heatsink? It MUST be done correctly or it can prevent the system from booting. The i7 requires the vertical line method.

http://www.elitekiller.com/pics/AS5...

http://cdn.overclock.net/6/64/500x1...

http://www.arcticsilver.mobi/basic_...

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#11
July 6, 2014 at 09:31:40
Unfortunately my case does not seem to have speakers, is there any way i can listen to the beep tones by using earphones?

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#12
July 6, 2014 at 10:32:43
If the earphone socket is connected properly I see no reason why it shouldn't collect the beep tones just as well as case speakers.

EDIT:
Yes, phones will do the same as case speakers but as per #15 below I have never heard of beep tones coming through the normal audio outputs - I assumed maybe this was some arrangement I had not run into.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks

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#13
July 6, 2014 at 12:50:50
I plugged the earphones into the green motherboard socket and did not hear any booting up sound or any bleeps. The only sound was the CPU fan.

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#14
July 6, 2014 at 16:20:05
Get one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...
or similar. You might even have one inside of an older computer that you can borrow and since it is only for diagnosis, you can use one for multiple systems.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#15
July 7, 2014 at 06:30:43
The beep codes do not come thru the audio ports. You MUST connect a speaker to the board at the JFP2 header. And you did not comment on the thermal paste application. If you did it incorrectly, it will prevent the system from booting.

EDIT: Just a thought - do you have both the 24-pin & 4-pin power plugs connected to the board?

message edited by riider


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#16
July 7, 2014 at 06:51:35
Ahh, sorry about that, I'll get a case speaker. I did not know there was a specific technique to the application of thermal paste. Will I need to remove the thermal paste I applied before prior to reapplying using the vertical line method?

In response to the question regarding power connectors, I have both connectors in yes, but the secondary one is 8-pin, not 4. Have I done this incorrectly? It seems to fit, and the clip locks in.

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#17
July 7, 2014 at 14:30:55
8 pin is probably right BUT ake sure that it i not an 8Pin PCIe connector (sometimes a 6+2Pin), it should be marked CPU, 12V Pwr, P4 or similar and will probably be a 4+4pin lock together connector (some high end power supplies or modular power supplies may have an 8pin connector).

Yes, you nee to remove all of the thermal compound before reapplying. Use a quality rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. If it has hardened, an old plastic credit card can be used as a scraper (NO metal).

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#18
July 10, 2014 at 11:17:14
I have connected the speaker to the JFP2 pins and when attempting to power on I get 3 beeps of the same length, every time. I do not know if these are short or long as I have nothing to compare them to. I am not sure of the BIOS manufacturer on my board either, I think it is AMI but I do not know a way to tell for definite. Because of this, I am unable to determine the exact problem. Could anyone tell me from my board which manufacturer it is and what these 3 beeps mean? (1st post has link to hardware) I know if it is am AMI bios then if these 3 beeps are short beeps, then this means a 64k memory failure. Is this a RAM failure or a DIMM slot failure?

I only get this sound when no memory is installed; when either of the 2 ram sticks are installed, I get no beeps at all.

Any insight you could provide would be very much appreciated.

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#19
July 10, 2014 at 11:53:51
Try cleaning the RAM edge connectors with a pencil eraser then popping them in and out a few times to clear any oxide off the sockets. It's a long shot but at least it is easy to try.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#20
July 10, 2014 at 13:01:12
Did you mean on the very edges of the ram modules, the gold area that connects?

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#21
July 10, 2014 at 13:21:33
Yep that's the place - at times a tiny bit of oxide (hardly visible) has been known to cause issues.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#22
July 10, 2014 at 13:44:37
Tried cleaning them- have been able to boot up into bios now, with both ram sticks in slots DIMM3 and DIMM4. DIMM2 and DIMM4 doesn't seem to work though, which, if I understand the motherboard manual correctly, are the slots my ram need to be in to run in dual-channel. Does this not boot up when in DIMM2 and DIMM4 because I need to configure this in the BIOS prior to putting the ram in this slot?

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#23
July 10, 2014 at 15:21:19
Sounds like you've got it right but as a check:

From your spec it seems you will be using DDR3 modules.

Extract from motherboard manual (page 1-15 on online copy):
"Always install DDR3 memory modules in DDR3 DIMM slots".

This will show where to fit DDR3 modules:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76yL...
Dual channel should then work.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks

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#24
July 11, 2014 at 02:15:34
All DIMM slots in my motherboard are DDR3 DIMM slots, and I had the exact same configuration shown in the video: a module connected to each of the black DIMM slots. These are DIMM2 and DIMM4. The system will not power on if either module is in DIMM2, even if it is the only module installed in the board.

I even powered the system on with a module in DIMM4, and inserted the other module into DIMM2 after. The BIOS only detects DIMM4 and displays my system as having 4096MB of ram, equivalent to only one of the modules.

message edited by Spyrothedragon


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#25
July 11, 2014 at 12:27:20
If I'm reading your #22 and #24 together correctly it sounds as if you have problem with the DIMM2 socket - could be a bent connection if you examine it carefully.

I would avoid inserting or removing RAM when powered up - can zap the RAM and/or mobo. Also a little spark could make a black mark on either the RAM or its socket.

I was unable to find anything referring to RAM settings other than timings which, unless you've made changes, should be at default. If you think something might have been changed there will be a default setting option in BIOS.

Maybe one of the other contributors will have more ideas so keep watching.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#26
July 11, 2014 at 15:20:50
With the one module in, try resetting BIOS to defaults, Save and Exit. Then going back in and manually making sure that the CPU, RAM, Time/Date, and graphics are set correctly in the BIOS. Adjust as needed. Save and Exit.

One more thing, I just want to confirm that the memory you purchased is a matched set and came factory sealed in one single package. Individual memory sticks can be of different settings and if far enough off from each other, cannot run together, cannot run on a single channel, or cause other problems.

You might have a bad stick of memory. With one stick only, boot to a CD (bootable) with Memtest86 on it and let it run through all tests. No errors are acceptable. Shut down and repeat with the other stick. If one has errors, send them both back for replacement under warranty. I believe I remember that Memtest reports details on the memory, write these down and if the specs differ significantly, get them replaced as well. If the package was not sealed, they may have been a returned package for the same problem and was resold to you instead of being marked defective.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#27
July 15, 2014 at 08:45:34
I can't find the reset option and have searched around. The RAM did indeed come sealed together, with both modules in one package.

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#28
July 15, 2014 at 20:52:24
When in your BIOS, you should have the option for setting it to defaults. Then you would Save and Exit the BIOS set up. Then you could go back in and manually set the important factors to your primary hardware. Motherboard resetting (Clear CMOS) is used when you suspect that a BIOS setting is so far off that you cannot get back into the BIOS to fix it as in if you were overclocking and took a big leap and it would not boot at all. You will not need this unless you could not get into the set up and knew it way played with.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#29
July 28, 2014 at 22:56:53
Have reset BIOS, still a problem with DIMM2. As Derek said, it could be the socket itself so perhaps I should send the board back under warranty.

Thank you very much to everyone who helped me with this problem.

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#30
July 29, 2014 at 21:09:38
Keep us posted, let us know how it goes.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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