Solved Custom build low budget

February 9, 2014 at 00:18:59
Specs: Windows 7, 2.8GZ dual core Pentium D 3GB ddr2
I'm gonna be doing a custom build (hopefully with in the next couple months). I have an older micro ATX case it has a 1spot in the front 80mm fan and one in the back for an 80mm fan. I could always modify the side to fit another 80mm fan or possibly even a 120mm if needed. Anyways I was thinking about maybe using these parts does anyone have any input or would this be a decent build? I already have a 160gb HDD I plan on putting in it a bigger one and possibly a SDD will come later on. A video card will also have to be added later on hopefully the on board graphics will do decent. this is the cheapest I could do but all items are from new egg I'm sure I could get some parts cheaper on ebay and other sites

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...

2x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...
(I might have to get the sand bridge not a big difference only .1ghz)

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#1
February 9, 2014 at 06:01:03
I could always modify the side to fit another 80mm fan or possibly even a 120mm if needed.

I wouldn't bother. Side fans are at best a waste of time and at worst can even interfere with cooling. One extractor fan at the rear will usually provide all the air circulation that is needed.

Stuart


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#2
February 9, 2014 at 06:43:04
✔ Best Answer
The only case fan that's truly needed is a rear exhaust fan. A front intake fan is optional; side panel fans should NOT be used. The following article is dated but it still applies. From the conclusion - "A single rear exhaust fan produces the best results overall. This flushes the theory of more is better right out the door."

http://icrontic.com/article/pc_airf...

The PSU is a poor choice. It has multiple low amp +12v rails rather than a single high amp +12v rail, no PFC, it's not 80% efficient, it has dual fans rather than one large fan, plus it's overpriced & poorly rated. Here's a 500W Corsair for just $30 after rebate:

CORSAIR CX500 500W 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - $30 (after $20 rebate)

Would you consider AMD rather than Intel? If not, at least don't limit yourself to a board that only accepts older generation CPUs plus only has 2 RAM slots.

AMD A6-5400K Trinity 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 65W Dual-Core Desktop APU with Radeon HD 7540D Graphics - $55 (after $5 off code)

GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H FM2+/FM2 AMD Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - $65 (after $5 off code)

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 - $41 (after 10% off code)

Your parts total = $204
My parts total = $191

AMD A6-5400K vs Intel Celeron G1610

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#3
February 9, 2014 at 07:38:09
my total came out to a little more than 190 after everything was added and I don't know where your getting the prices but that crosair PSU was the same price as the one I chose (But still a higher wattage so thank you) the Processor is 59.99 and the MOBO is 69.99 the ram also came out to 44.99 but its still about a dollar cheaper (and looks nicer) than what I chose so thank you for that. and thank you for your input its greatly appreciated any other tips? should I look on ebay so that I could possibly have enough still to get a Video card or a bigger HDD the only issue with that PSU though now that I looked at it again is that it is a full size ATX instead of a micro ATX so I'm not sure if it would fit and I'd hate to waste the money. I would post pics of my case but I don't know how to put them on this site.

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#4
February 9, 2014 at 09:13:56
"I don't know where your getting the prices but that crosair PSU was the same price as the one I chose (But still a higher wattage so thank you)"

Some items have rebates, some have $5 promotion codes, & the RAM has a 10% off code. Check the links again.

EDIT: I went back to my other response & added the rebate & coupon info.

Why did you choose the Athena PSU in the 1st place? It's an SFX PSU with special plugs common to HP, Dell, & eMachines. You're going to use a non-OEM motherboard so those extra plugs will be useless. Are you using an OEM case? Double check the dimensions to make sure you buy the right type/size PSU. A micro ATX case is generally called that due to the size of the motherboard it accepts, not the PSU, although some may require a mATX PSU as well.

PSU Dimensions: http://www.evercase.co.uk/PowerSupp...

The fact that you're focused on wattage tells me that you're probably not too familiar with PSU specs & what to look for. Amperage should be the primary concern, especially on the SINGLE +12v rail. The +12v should have over 30A (higher is generally better) & the +3.3v & +5v rails should only have about 20-25A each. The other things I mentioned to look for is the single large cooling fan, 80% plus efficiency rating, & active PFC. For your build you could easily get by with the Corsair 430W (even if you add a video card), it's generally on sale for about $20-25 after rebate. The $20 TigerDirect sale recently ended so it will probably pop up at newegg again soon. Most Corsair PSUs are made by either Channel Well or Seasonic so they're top quality units. FYI, Corsair doesn't manufacture PSUs (neither does Antec).

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#5
February 9, 2014 at 09:56:22
DEV893

Listen to the guys above. They both know what they are talking about.


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#6
February 9, 2014 at 10:28:30
I don't believe my case is a oem case atleast not a big brand ( dell, HP ect ) its a premio (made in 2002) and from what I can find it seems like they are no longer around. the case i plan on using is 3inches shorter in height and about an inch shorter in length than the Dell XPS 400 I am currently using they are the same width

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#7
February 9, 2014 at 15:28:16
back on the cooling thing. my computer case is old it only has two 3.5 trays and they both are external. I was thinking perhaps I could make some kind of front cover for the 3.5 and mount two small 30mm fans there to act as a HDD cooler and the 80mm fan on the bottom front with an 80mm in the back. would that be fine? that article didn't say anything about HDD coolers. I don't know how the HDD's would run in that case but I know in the XPS my HDD is almost always at 50 Celsius (yet it still is only warm I could leave my hand on it all day)

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#8
February 9, 2014 at 17:04:41
<img src="http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x369/dev993/desktopbefore2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo desktopbefore2.jpg"/>


heres the case I am going to use I'm in the middle of painting it to give it a more modern look but this is how its set up inside

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#9
February 9, 2014 at 21:18:06
The case should be fine but I would recommend you cut out the punched area where a rear fan goes and either get a wire cover or use none. Get the largest fan you can fit in there.

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#10
February 10, 2014 at 09:29:34
the largest I can fit is a 80mm were the screw holes are is right on the edge of the case and pci slots there is enough room lower on the case for me to fit a few 25mm fans maybe two 40mm

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#11
February 10, 2014 at 15:40:44
Then be sure to get a power supply with good capacity fans. I assume you can use a standard ATX PSU?

Look at #3 in the link below. Gives dimensions for all the fan sizes. To convert to inches- 25.4MM = 1".


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#12
February 10, 2014 at 17:22:32
i've alread looked all that up. the area where I can put a fan is 5" tall and just under 2" across so I might be able to get away with 2 40mm fans. I don't plan on doing a full out gaming build (at least not at the time and not in this case) so two 80mm fans and the 120mm in the PSU I'mma get should be good. I might also make my own HDD cooler to mount in the 3.5 slots and I'll probably use two 40mm fans to take up both 3.5 slots so that it'll keep the Hard drives cool. So I don't think I'll need to make any new fan areas in the back as long as I get a 80mm with a good enough CFM. I do have a question though. will I still be able to use the stock front audio and usb ports? again this computer was made in 2002. I haven been able to find any more modern ones that would fit

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#13
February 10, 2014 at 21:08:52
Can't be only 2 inches across. As you stated, you can fit an 80MM in there. That is 3.15".

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#14
February 10, 2014 at 22:12:45
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums... (ignore the crappy paint job it has to be redone just don't have good paint) the thinner area is the only place were I can put any fans

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#15
February 11, 2014 at 08:32:12
The honeycomb area is where the fan goes. That looks to be setup for at least an 80MM. Measure from screw hole to screw hole and post that number.

If you are thinking of placing fans below that I suggest you not bother.


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#16
February 11, 2014 at 10:00:55
it is an 80mm fan that was the factory fan size I sold that as I was planning on selling the case but decided to do a custom build with it instead. Do you know if I'll be able to use the OEM usb and audio jacks for the case? will they plug in to a newer motherboard?

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#17
February 11, 2014 at 12:01:23
You should be able to but if the connectors from the case don't seem to match the motherboard I suggest you start a new thread asking about it at that time.

So, going back to the case fan. If you want to keep it simple then buy an 80MM case fan. I also suggest you cut out all the honeycomb and leave a nice open hole. If you are worried about fingers then buy a wire grill to go with it. See the links below.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556041...

http://search.coolerguys.com/?vwcat...


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#18
February 11, 2014 at 12:21:41
I was thinking about cutting it off anyways and doing something like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-FLYI...


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#19
February 11, 2014 at 20:58:32
Go with a single 80mm high CFM fan but remember that these are typically noisy so balance the high CFM with lower DB for a good compromise. A power supply with a single large 120mm or 140mm fan will also help. Forget the other fans, not needed and not worth the trouble.
Modern motherboards are USB3.0 and the older cases are USB2.0 so you will probably need a USB3.0 to USB2.0 motherboard adapter for USB2.0 speeds (unless the MB has both) or an add on USB3.0 front port for an open slot for higher speed connection.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#20
February 12, 2014 at 05:56:12
That fan grille is still blocking too much of the opening. No one sees the back end anyway. Go with a wire grille.

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#21
February 12, 2014 at 12:51:31
Ok I cut it off I'll leave it open for now till I decide what I wanna do with it.Not a big fan of chrome but like you said it would be in an unseen area but I'll decide later. Im almost done with the painting of the case so now I have to get the money to build the comp up lol

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#22
February 12, 2014 at 14:35:05
Front fan can actually inhibit air flow. The PSU and the 80MM case fan will pull air through the small opening.

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#23
May 6, 2014 at 22:22:18
Just wanted to let you guys know my PC is up and running now I had to change a couple parts due to them being out of stock. I have had it up and running for a couple months now with no issues though i do plan on upgrading a little bit later with more ram a better CPU (one that doesn't have integrated graphics) and a better Video card

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#24
May 7, 2014 at 20:09:30
Upgrading the graphics does not need you to upgrade the CPU and may make a big difference so do that first and then see if you still need to upgrade the CPU. This way you probably can get the upgrade sooner or possibly even better graphics and put off the CPU upgrade and save for a bigger step up if needed.
Glad everything went well so far. Enjoy the experience.
Warning: Once you build one yourself, you may never be happy with a factory built machine again... Oh, right, too late now.

Once you get this one right, stop and start putting away for your next build so that you can start with a clean sheet of paper and design it from scratch and make less compromises. Also with a decent running machine, you may be able to wait until you can really set it up right from the start.

Enjoy.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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