Crashing when loading games, now no video

October 13, 2009 at 10:19:02
Specs: Windows XP
Win XP Pro SP3
Abit IP-95 Mobo
4 ghz Kingston DDR2
Intel Pentium D Dual Core 3.2 Ghz
Nvidia 8600GT Fatl1ty 1 Ghz

Ok so last week my PC would suddenly start
having video crash whenever I would load any
game. It would either crash and have screwed
up graphics or completely crash to the point
where I would get a 'no input' or something
similar message on my monitor. Restarting
would fix it and I'd have zero problems until I
ran another game. Had the same problem with
Star Wars: Galaxies, Red Faction: Guerrilla,
and Call of Duty 4. Finally after rebooting for
the 4th or 5th time I went to restart and I got
no video at start up, just a blank black screen.
Tried replacing the video card and the PSU
and neither helped and I haven't been able to
get video on start up since.

PC had been working fine til this happened
and it happened over maybe the course of an
hour. Only changes I had made that day was
an update to CoD4.

Not sure where to go from here. I'm hoping the
motherboard didn't die on me.


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#1
October 13, 2009 at 10:23:36
Something I forgot, on start up the fans and lights still come on
and I can hear it booting.

Also, could it be caused by a bad SATA cable to the HD? Had a similar error a while back when I replaced my RAM. I had knocked it loose on the mobo when I was putting the RAM in and had the same problem. I checked this this time but it was in place, but could it just be a bad cable?


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#2
October 13, 2009 at 11:08:22
You probably have the symptoms of a failing power supply.

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.
See response 4 in this:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...

Your power supply must have at least the minumum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD!)
You can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you need to get a PS with more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS.

"Nvidia 8600GT "

Your system must have a power supply with a capacity of

350 Watts Minimum; 22 Amps minimum @ 12V

for that video chipset, or greater.

The max rated output capacity is almost always the peak capacity - the PS will probably be damaged if it is run at that max capacity all the time
If you play games a lot, that tends to load the PS more, and it's recommended you have at least a minimum PS capacity such that the constant load on the PS is no more than 80%.
In this case, the capacity would need to be 437.5 watts or more to conform to that.
.......

It is extremely unlikely a data cable problem would cause your symptoms. Even if it were bad or had apoor or no connection, the mboard should still boot, and you should still get video, up until the point the data on the hard drive should load Windows.

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
.....

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.


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#3
October 13, 2009 at 11:22:35
Like I said above, I tried another PSU and it didn't help, exact
same problem I was having.

I'll try another cable as soon as I can get one. The plastic on one
end of it is broken so it doesn't hold well, its been that way for
almost a year though.


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Related Solutions

#4
October 13, 2009 at 11:53:04
"Like I said above, I tried another PSU and it didn't help, exact same problem I was having"

You didn't bother to list any info about either of the PSU's so we have no idea what's going on. You may have simply replaced one piece of crap with another. Did your new PSU cost at least $50? Is it a quality brand name unit? At least 400W with a single +12v rail of at least 30A?

For instance: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...


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#5
October 13, 2009 at 11:57:46
"Like I said above, I tried another PSU and it didn't help"

OK, so I missed that.

What is the make and model and output capacity of the original PS?
Sometimes when an el-cheapo or inadequte PS fails it damages the mboard, but usually nothing else has been damaged.

examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
http://members.datafast.net.au/~dft...

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
http://www.badcaps.net/

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Jo...
....

"II'll try another cable as soon as I can get one. The plastic on one
end of it is broken so it doesn't hold well, its been that way for
almost a year though."

Even so, as I said....

"It is extremely unlikely a data cable problem would cause your symptoms. Even if it were bad or had a poor or no connection, the mboard should still boot, and you should still get video, up until the point the data on the hard drive should load Windows. "


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