bad performance with new Radeon HD 5550

February 25, 2011 at 08:57:14
Specs: Windows 7 64BIT, Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU 2.20GHz 4GB RAM
Hello,

New here, I have a Dell Inspiron 530 January 2008 a regular size tower
and I upgraded the Radeon 2400 graphics card it had to Radeon HD5550 Saphire that has passive cooling. Now audio/video is very stuttery expecially on the net, games, video playback. I am told this is an issue with the pcs power supply which is 300watts. The card packaging says it requires at least 350 watts. However someone else said the power supply I have is more than enough for this card and its a drivers issue, so I have reinstalled drivers for my on board audio and the Graphics card, got the latest Ati drivers. My pc has its latest bios update etc. Now I am out of ideas. I have noticed that once the card is reinstalled I dont have the issue for a few hours and then it returns. When I put back the old 2400 card ther is no issues at all. Any help would be great, thanks in advance.

John


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#1
February 25, 2011 at 09:18:28
I would say it's your power supply. Newegg.com states that it needs a 400 watt psu. If you have a Dell 300 watt, it's probably a piece of junk to begin with. You need to look for a psu like the Corsair line that has a single 12 volt rail as opposed to multiple rails. Don't go by wattage, it's the amps it supplies on the 12 volt rail that's important. looks like it needs at least 24 amps on the 12 volt rail. With a 300 watt psu your choices are very limited.

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#2
February 25, 2011 at 09:29:31
"I am told this is an issue with the pcs power supply which is 300watts. The card packaging says it requires at least 350 watts."

When I search using: HD 5550 system requirements watt
, most of the "hits" say 400 watts minimum, but a few say you can get by with less - 350 watts maybe but not likely 300 watts.

When I search using: HD 2400 or HD 2400 Pro system requirements watt
, most of the "hits" say 300 watts minimum.

When I search using: HD 2400 XT system requirements watt
, most of the "hits" say 350 watts minimum.


"I have noticed that once the card is reinstalled I dont have the issue for a few hours and then it returns.When I put back the old 2400 card ther is no issues at all. "

That probably indicates your power supply is inadequate, and is being constantly overloaded when the HD 5550 is installed. In that case, the card often works fine at first, but eventually the PS at least overheats, and it will be damaged in the longer term.

The 350 or 400 watt requirement is one of two requirements - the other is the PS must be able to supply at least a minimum current (amperage) at +12v. Some 300 watt PSs may be able to supply enough current, but the +12v max amperage rating varies considerably for the same wattage capacity, and it appears your power supply is probably inadequate in that regard.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.

If you need to get a PS with more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent quality standard sized standard ATX PS.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo (in quality) PS.
See response 3 in this:
http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...


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#3
February 25, 2011 at 11:04:55
I disagree. Card manufacturers deliberately over-recommend the wattage because they realize the majority of users are clueless about power supplies & power supply specs - they "err on the side of caution". The Rdeon HD 5550 is a fairly low end card with low power requirements. It's barely a gaming card so don't set your expectations too high.

According to the following, the HD 5550 with 512MB GDDR5 memory consumes 65W under max load. It only consumes 33W under average condidtions. If you have the lower end version with DDR2 or DDR3 memory, the wattage requirement may vary a little, it's likely to be even lower. The point I'm trying to make is that it's unlikely the power supply is your problem.

Reinstall the motherboard chipset drivers, then install the ATI drivers.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/...


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Related Solutions

#4
February 25, 2011 at 11:57:29
""I have noticed that once the card is reinstalled I dont have the issue for a few hours and then it returns.When I put back the old 2400 card ther is no issues at all. "

That sounds like he's NOT having any software problems.

If you can borrow another PS that has at least 350 watts capacity, try connecting that, and using your computer for a while.
In any case, PSs are relatively inexpensive - just don't buy an el-cheapo (in quality) one.


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#5
February 26, 2011 at 03:15:50
Wow! Thanks to everyone so much for the great advice. You have been very helpful. My initial reaction was that the power supply was the issue but had been told otherwise after. In reply to Mickliq I had already reinstalled the motherboard chipset drivers without any success. I also have a firewire card in my pc and intend to put in a second harddrive (2TB) so perhaps a better power supply would be a good idea in any case. I will buy one from Dabs.ie and see if it solves the problem. I hope ther wont be any major comatiblity problem (pin outs etc) with the Dell board or case.
Thanks again all!
John

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#6
February 26, 2011 at 08:31:39
Plan on spending about $50 for a decent brand name PSU.

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#7
March 15, 2011 at 15:57:56
Hello,
I have been picking thru this website where I bought my Radeon card and more recently my 2TB extra hard drive. Do you think this power supply is enough? Also what is this "Localisation United States" about?
http://www.dabs.ie/products/builder...
Thanks for you help

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#8
March 15, 2011 at 18:29:25
Did you manage to try someone else's power supply ?

That should be fine. That's a decent brand

"..what is this "Localisation United States" about?"

I'm not sure.

Are you in Ireland ?

That web site is in Ireland.

If you're not in Ireland, you should buy from a web site in your country, or buy locally, so that it is provided with the right AC power cord with the right AC plug on the end of it, and the 110 / 220 AC switch on the power supply would already be set the right way by default. Otherwise the power supply model is probably identical.

I've heard that AC power cords for computer power supplies sold in the UK must have a fuse in the plug end of the AC cord, and of course the AC plug would be for UK standard 220v power sockets. I don't know it that applies to Ireland (I'm in Canada - 110v, no fuse).

Many power supplies are tested to see if they conform to various countries' electrical standards. E.g UL- Underwriter's Laboratories - for the US, CSA - Canadian Standards Association - for Canada. Maybe "Localisation United States" indicates it passes US electrical standards ?
Or maybe they have the wrong specs posted for the power supply for Ireland on that site ?


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#9
March 16, 2011 at 05:54:21
Hi Tubesandwires,

I didnt find another power supply to borrow that was any better than my own. Yeah I'm from Ireland and I doubt Dabs would be selling a PSU that was set for 110. Anyway it does say in the description "•No more hassle of flipping that tiny red switch to select the voltage input!" So it all seems good. The red switch on my one is set to 230 as far as I know if I wanted to blow it you just pull that switch to 110 and POW! So... I', gonna buy it and thanks for your great help.

Regards
John


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#10
March 16, 2011 at 08:03:59
Thanks for the thanks.

I'm 1/4 Irish myself; the family name is Irish. My great great grandfather and his family on my Dad's side emigrated to Canada in the 1860's.


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#11
March 19, 2011 at 08:03:44
Hi,
Glad to hear it! My power supply is on the way so I'll post the results when I get it.

Thanks
John
Belated Happy St Patricks Day


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#12
March 19, 2011 at 09:10:02
Sounds good.

Side notes.....
I was recommending Coolermaster PSs as decent, but I am presently working on a friend's computer who bought one about 2 years ago and have found the single 120mm fan in it is not working.
I checked out the model on the web and found it's known to have fan problems and they sometimes happen within the first year.
The fan has cheap sleeve bearings rather than at least ball bearings (on both sides) and has only a one warranty.
It's jerking back and forth rather than spinning, so it may be the temp controlled speed control that's no good, but a fan with sleeve bearings on both sides does not last as long as one that has at least ball bearings on both sides.

Check out your model on Corsair's web site and find out the length of the warranty if that's not stated in the ad, and what type of bearings the fan has.


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#13
March 25, 2011 at 07:52:12
Hello,
Me again. Well I got my 500 Watt Corsair power supply installed it no problem and guess what? The problem is still there! After much testing I have concluded that the wireless dongle on my pc for broadband is the culprit. To recap, video playback eg windows media player and Itunes playback will stutter at intervels, also on youtube videos etc. I can duplicate this brief stutter by disconecting and and reconnecting the broadband connection in the bottom right had corner of the screen. At the moment of reconnection stuttery audio kicks in. I am wondering could it be that the usb post the dongle is using is slower than others. Or that I am using all my ports together and somehow windows was is dividing the speed of one port with another. Any ideas here folks?
Thanks
John

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#14
March 25, 2011 at 13:33:20
Does this still apply ?:

"....I dont have the issue for a few hours and then it returns.When I put back the old 2400 card ther is no issues at all. "

If yes, then I suspect there is something wrong with the 5550 card that is heat related.

"...video playback eg windows media player and Itunes playback will stutter at intervels,..."

A problem with the USB dongle or the USB port it plugs into should have no effect at all on playback of files already on the hard drive or the playing of DVDs.

Your computer was made circa 2007 so all the USB ports on you compter support USB 2.0 specs. Even if they didn't wireless B and G network adapters work fine with USB 1.1 ports.

You MAY have a problem with the wireless adapter
- if the USB port and/or the plug on it is physically damaged
- if you have it plugged into an external muliport hub
- if you have it plugged into an external muliport hub AND something else is plugged into the hub that draws the max 500ma USB spec of current - an external hard drive or external optical drive

- if you have it plugged into a port on the front of the case that has inadequate wiring or a poor connection between it and the mboard header it plugs into.

- rarely, if you have it plugged into a port on the back of the case over or under something else that draws the max 500ma USB spec of current - an external hard drive or external optical drive


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#15
March 26, 2011 at 06:02:31
Hello,
I was mistaken about not having issues when putting back the old 2400 card. I do still have the problem regardless of which card is in. I rang support for my broadband provider who had me change the channells the the wireles adapter was using but there was no diff to video playback of the pcs local files. So the tech support guys told me to go off and try all the other channels too but as soon as I picked one I lost my connection completely and have not been able to get it back. I will have to call them again tonight. I can tell you for certain if the internet is not connected I do NOT get the stuttering problem with the local files be thay music of video etc. For the record that power supply is terrific, great big fan loads of extra sata connectors etc. So... I am stumpted!
John

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#16
March 26, 2011 at 06:49:42
"I was mistaken about not having issues when putting back the old 2400 card. I do still have the problem regardless of which card is in."
"I can tell you for certain if the internet is not connected I do NOT get the stuttering problem with the local files be thay music of video etc."

You have a rather odd problem.
It could be caused by problem with the modem or the router or the combo modem / router or the wireless adapter.

Try connecting a network cable between your computer's wired network port and a non WAN port on the router and then see if you still have the problem or not.

Note that you can only connect to the internet one way at a time, either via a wired network connection or a wireless one, so you would need to disable the wireless adapter by not plugging it in or by disabling it in Device Manager, and you often need to restart the computer when you change the type of connection.There will be a longer that usual delay connecting to internet when you open the browser the first time after changing the connection type, but other than that it should work fine.


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