Solved Intel i7 7700k cooling

Asus / Asus rog maximus ix hero...
April 13, 2017 at 15:49:21
Specs: Windows 10, Intel Core i7-7700K / Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4
Good afternoon:

On March 12, 2017, I decided to create a custom PC. I want to mention that this is not my first time. My system specs are the following:
- CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
- THERMAL PASTE: Thermaltake
- CPU COOLER: NZXT Kraken x31
- MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151
- MEMORY: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz (PC4-25600)
C16 Kit
- GRAPHIC CARD: Zotac Nvidia GTX 970
- INTERNAL STORAGE: Seagate 1TB 7200rpm
- PSU: Ultra 550 watts ATX Power Supply
- DISPLAY: I-INC IF191A LCD
- OS: Microsoft Windows 10 64 bit
- CASE: Corsair 200R

For the moment, I’m not planning to overclock my computer because I haven’t been able to upgrade my monitor and graphic card. For the moment, I can survive with what I have.
My problem is the following; as a recommendation from a coworker, I upgrade my CPU cooler from the i7 4090 stock fan cooler to the NZXT Kraken x31. The temps stays around 37 o to 40 o while browsing or doing light work with Photoshop or so. But when I start gaming, sometimes I can play around 1 hour before I received a warning via the NZXT CAM software, saying that my temperatures exceed the 83o and the CPU load spike up to 100% constant. Other times, as soon I start playing I see that message. So far the games I’ve tried to play are: GTAV, Mass Effect Andromeda, No Man’s Sky and Assassins Creed.

Those issues started as soon I played Mass Effect Andromeda and sometimes while browsing, I see the exceeded temperature. Also, with ME: Andromeda, when I start playing my battery backup start beeping and I have to close the game to stop it.

If more information is required, please let me know. I’ll wait for your feedback.
Thank you very much!


See More: Intel i7 7700k cooling

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✔ Best Answer
April 16, 2017 at 20:24:22
Should be:
Radiator top of rear blowing OUT (Exhaust)
Top of case rear optional exhaust fan
Low in front of case no fan or optional intake fan
Case side - No fan!
The air in the case needs to flow naturally, cool air needs to enter low in the front, flow over warm components (convection makes it rise naturally) and be exhausted high in the rear of the case. Reversing this only causes eddies in the flow and stagnant air that causes components to overheat. Side fans also disrupt the natural convection and cause more pockets of warm air inside of the case.

I use one of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...
It is 80degrees F in my room right now and my CPU temps are at 39C but I just discovered that there was a box blocking the front intake. I just moved the box away and the temps dropped to 32C in under a minute. With my cooling set up I have never seen it anywhere near the temps you are seeing, ever.

Another thought, check your VCore voltage as auto on it might be setting it too high which will heat up your CPU quite fast. Write down what it is when in BIOS at idle and set it manually to the same voltage less .01 to .02 below that number to start with. If stable you may be able to lower it further in small steps. On your board your BIOS may be raising the VCore as the load increases which should not be necessary.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.



#1
April 13, 2017 at 16:12:41
When you changed the CPU did you remove the thermal paste then apply it again using the exact method specified for the replacement CPU?

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks


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#2
April 13, 2017 at 16:46:21
Good evening:

Yes! I clean the previous thermal paste in the CPU when added the NZXT Kraken. Since I was told that the stock thermal paste in those component is not good, I clean it and apply the thermaltake - TG-7 paste.


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#3
April 13, 2017 at 18:09:53
But did you apply the paste correctly? The Core i7 uses the vertical line method.

http://pc4u.org/wp-content/uploads/...


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Related Solutions

#4
April 13, 2017 at 18:18:26
No, I've always used the dot method.

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#5
April 13, 2017 at 20:54:36
Dot method is for AMD CPUs, not Intel. I suggest you remove the heatsink, clean off the paste, then reapply using the vertical line method.

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#6
April 14, 2017 at 06:51:01
That's why, in my question at #1, I used bold for "the exact method".

Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks

message edited by Derek


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#7
April 15, 2017 at 05:56:36
Since the thermal paste subject has been covered I will leave that as stated.
Also I believe that for the water pump you may have to set the 'fan' speed in BIOS to maximum full time but check your manual to be sure though it is fine to allow the fan to be variable. If your MB does not have a distinct water cooling port use a case fan port (or direct plug into power supply with Molex to fan adapter) for the pump and adjust its settings, leave the fan on the CPU fan port.
On a side note, a GOOD quality high performance air cooling system has nearly the same cooling capacity as a closed look 'water' system with a lot less trouble. My i5-4690K idles around 28C rarely reaches the mid 40C's and has never gone above the low 50C's at maximum loads (stock settings with Noctua w/single 120mm fan).

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#8
April 15, 2017 at 07:30:31
I didn't realize it was water cooling. I would have gotten a decent air cooler & invested the savings in a better power supply.

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#9
April 15, 2017 at 09:39:06
Update:

Good afternoon:

As suggested, I re-applied the thermal paste using the line method. Yes, the cooling system is the NZXT Kraken x31, with one fan (the default one). The temps stays around 37 to 41 while doing light stuff. I played Mass Effect Andromeda and after 30 minutes, the CAM software started to show notifications that the temps where higher than 83.

As for the control of the fan, when I start playing, using the CAM software, I change the pump speed from silent to performance, that basically use the 75% of the fan speed.

As for the power supply, what power supply can you recommend me? I picked that power supply like three years ago with my previous build. Since I didn't have any trouble at that moment, that's why I decided to re-use it. But I've been thinking that maybe since this is more actual tech, maybe it's not juicing good enough.

Thank you for your time & suggestions


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#10
April 15, 2017 at 12:14:26
Power supplies:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...
Wattage depends on what graphics card you plan on ending up with later.
Single 12Volt Rail
High amperage on 12V rail
80% or greater certified efficiency
Active PFC
3year or greater warranty
All of the Corsair shown should qualify though there are certainly others as well.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#11
April 15, 2017 at 14:42:03
If the Ultra PSU is working OK, just stick with it. I was just saying that you spent extra money on water cooling (which really isn't necessary) & apparently tried to save a few bucks by getting an Ultra PSU. Ultra Products never actually manufactured PSUs, so it will take some digging to find out who the actual manufacturer was. It might be OK, then again, might be el crappo. You'll need the exact model number to look it up.

See the chart on this page: https://img.purch.com/o/aHR0cDovL21...
(click to enlarge)


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#12
April 15, 2017 at 15:04:20
Good evening:

That Ultra PSU, is LSP550 I bought it for a previous build I make in 2015. I bought it in Tigerdirect. The water cooling I got it recently (less than a month) because a friend recommend it. Basically, the only part I am reusing is the PSU. The thing that worry me is the overheating message every time I'm gaming. About the graphic card, for the moment, I'm sticking with the GTX970 cause the 1080 is a bit expensive but that's the one I'll try to get.

The PSU specs are:
AC input voltage: 115-230v
AC input frequency: 50-60hz
AC input current 10a(RMS) for 115VAC input
6a (RMS) for 230vac input.


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#13
April 15, 2017 at 20:02:36
Your 'specs':
+5V - 32 A
+3.3V - 22 A
+12V - 30 A
-12V - 0.6 A
+5VSB - 2 A
Not great but not too terrible.
No note about active PFC or efficiency rating anywhere and I found on Amazon some complaints about not honoring the warranty. One site said 3 year warranty though consumers on Amazon were under the impression that it was a lifetime but not honored after 6 months. 12V x 30A = 360Watts usable (if true) so it should have been really rated as a 400Watt model (the high 5Volt amperage is not really usable on modern systems and even the 3.3V amperage is higher than needed).

How are your temperatures now? Any better?

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#14
April 15, 2017 at 21:06:28
Yeah, this isn't a great psu but do it's job so far. The temps are normal but during gaming after 30 minutes if lucky, the message of the exceed 80o temps, keep showing up.

Also, my battery backup unit APC, randomly start beeping, while loading the game or during gameplay.

message edited by Oblius


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#15
April 16, 2017 at 10:43:10
There must have been different revisions of the Ultra 550 LPS because the specs I found are different. No mention of active PFC or 80Plus certification, but it does say it's "25% more efficient than its predecessor". The "UL E-number" doesn't match anything listed in the chart in response #11, however, the chart lists the maker of all LSP PSUs as Andyson.This site agrees: http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_...

+5V - 17A
+3.3V - 24A
+12V - 41A
-12V - 0.3A
+5VSB - 2.5A

http://www.ascendtech.us/ultra-ult-...


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#16
April 16, 2017 at 11:23:46
Yes, that's the one I have


http://www.ascendtech.us/ultra-ult-...


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#17
April 16, 2017 at 12:40:04
If APC UPS beeps during game play then you either have a problem with the UPS,its battery, or there is problem with the power to that wall outlet. Try running a heavy duty extension cord (power tool cord or a/c extension cord) and see if you still have the beeping. With most programs closed, use the Test feature on the APC software or test button. Alternately you can unplug the UPS and see what the battery condition is reported. Replace the battery or UPS as needed, if under warranty contact APC for full or partial credit.

The temps are still a concern and should be addressed. Are you sure you did not apply too much thermal compound? Are you sure that your vertical line is in the right direction in relation to the CPU? Are you sure that the pump speed is set high enough? Can it be set higher? Is there a way to verify that there is no air bubble in the water cooling? Are you sure that you are efficiently blowing the air over the radiator and out of the case? Have you tried increasing the fan speed? Do you have the radiator fan plugged into the CPU fan port? This is important so the BIOS can control the fan in relation to the CPU temperature!

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#18
April 16, 2017 at 14:32:49
About the apc ups, I bought a new one because the other one was a little old and wasn't working correctly. About the temps, I applied the thermal compound as suggested (line, not too much and not too little). Using the CAM software, I've set the fan to "performance" (it uses a 75% of the fan maximum speed). The temps stays around 37 to 40 while browsing or doing light work. Sometimes it spike to 50 (even while in idle). As for the gaming part, it keeps around 60 to 75 but after 30 minutes, it cross to 80 degree and the messages starts to pop up.

Unfortunately, the kraken is black and closed, don't know if I open it, can damage it. My current fan case configuration is:

Back: Radiator with fan behind to get air from outside
Top: Air enter
Front: Air gets out
Side panel: Air gets out

The CPU fan is connected in the cpu_fan port. If I'm not mistaken, the kraken fan (cpu) is not being controlled by the bios because if I let it, I cannot control them using the CAM or the AI Suite 3 software.


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#19
April 16, 2017 at 20:24:22
✔ Best Answer
Should be:
Radiator top of rear blowing OUT (Exhaust)
Top of case rear optional exhaust fan
Low in front of case no fan or optional intake fan
Case side - No fan!
The air in the case needs to flow naturally, cool air needs to enter low in the front, flow over warm components (convection makes it rise naturally) and be exhausted high in the rear of the case. Reversing this only causes eddies in the flow and stagnant air that causes components to overheat. Side fans also disrupt the natural convection and cause more pockets of warm air inside of the case.

I use one of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...
It is 80degrees F in my room right now and my CPU temps are at 39C but I just discovered that there was a box blocking the front intake. I just moved the box away and the temps dropped to 32C in under a minute. With my cooling set up I have never seen it anywhere near the temps you are seeing, ever.

Another thought, check your VCore voltage as auto on it might be setting it too high which will heat up your CPU quite fast. Write down what it is when in BIOS at idle and set it manually to the same voltage less .01 to .02 below that number to start with. If stable you may be able to lower it further in small steps. On your board your BIOS may be raising the VCore as the load increases which should not be necessary.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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#20
April 16, 2017 at 20:26:27
3 minutes later I am getting 28C which is more normal for my system.

You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.


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