NOTE that you have a MSI mboard on this system.
Some MSI mboards have the bad capacitor problem.
Check your mboard for them BEFORE you buy a replacement power supply.
Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
Your power supply is confirmed to be a standard (PS/2) size and has standard ATX wiring.
If you already have a used standard ATX power supply or can borrow one temporarily that has 300 watts or more capacity, I recommend you try that first before you buy a PS to see if that cures your problem (the colors of the wires must be identical at each position in the main connector from the PS).
I found info that says W3400 probably has a BESTEC power supply p/n 100889 or 100929, or a part number compatible with those.
Example replacement PS for eMachines p/n's 100889 and 100929, and similar:
That site confirms your PS is a standard (PS/2) size and has standard ATX wiring - if you hold your cusor over the connectors, it shows you which colors the wires are and what they are for.
You don't necessarily have to get a power supply from that site - any standard ATX power supply with 300 watts or more capacity will do - just DO NOT get a BESTEC power supply - make sure the source is selling you a replacement model, NOT a BESTEC one.
(If your present PS is 250 watts 250 watts or more capacity will do.)
The main connector of the BESTEC power supply and this replacement has no wire at position 18 in the 20 position main connector. It doesn't matter whether a replacement power supply main connector has a wire there - it's white if it has one - or not - it's used only for a certain function if the mboard has ISA slots, which does not apply to your mboard. If there is no white wire, if a mboard has ISA slots they will still work, they just won't support that seldom used function.
Many recent power supplies can be used on mboards that have either a 20 position main connector, or a 24 position main connector, by means of a one piece 20 position main connector, and a 4 pin connector you can place beside it if needed on mboards that require a 24 position connector. The wiring of the one piece 20 position connector is identical to that of power supplies that have only that connector and no provision for the 24 position connector on the mboard.
The wiring colors are standardized and relate to standard uses at these main connectors. The colors of the wires at the same positions in the main connector, and the numbers of wires at each position (some positions have two wires), must be identical for both the PS originally connected to the mboard and the new PS.
Just don't buy an el-cheapo PS - there are more poor power supplies being made these days than ever before. It should be a brand with a good reputatation, it should have at least a one year warranty, or better, a three year warranty, and it should have anti-short and overvoltage protection built in.
A very good unofficial emachines systems support information site:
Your actual mboard is a MSI-7145 (RS-480M-IL)
(identical to the MSI model except it has an emachines bios version on it):
MSI manual, mboard revision 2.1, last download on this Downloads page:
This is a decent mboard - I installed the MSI version (MSI bios version) on a friend's system a while ago.
There is more support for it on the MSI site.
Make sure the info and downloads you find there are for revision 2.1 - there may be other mboard revisions.
Flashing the bios with a version for the wrong mboard revision may result in you having a mboard that WILL NOT BOOT!
Regarding bios updates found there, or anywhere....
Flashing the bios is NOT a fix-all!!
Usually flashing is an un-necessary risk and will not cure your problem!
DO NOT flash your bios unless you find specific info such as in release notes for a bios version, or in release note for an older bios version that is newer than the mboard already has since newer bios versions almost always include all previous fixes, that it will cure a problem you are having.
If you want to be able to re-load the original emachines software installtion, DO NOT use an MSI bios version - the Recovery disk or Recovery disk set for your emachines model will probably refuse to load it's contents if the bios is not an emachines bios version, and/or if the mboard is not the same model or in a small group of models meant to be used with the disk or set of disks.
These I learned thru experience...........
You have a decent mboard.
As I recall this model has a 24 "pin" main connector socket but can use either a 20 or 24 "pin" main wiring connector from the PS - it works fine with a 20 "pin" one - see the mboard manual.
Some MSI mboards have the bad capacitor problem.
Some MSI models have a soldered in bios chip, rather than a removable bios chip in a socket on the mboard, despite the fact the picture of the mboard may show it in a socket. If your bios chip is soldered in, I recommend you DO NOT flash the bios - if something goes wrong while flashing or if the bios chip physically fails, the mboard will not boot - it can be replaced by some vendors on the web, but it's expensive enough that it's usually much cheaper to replace the mboard.
If the bios chip is in a socket, if the bios chip needs to be replaced, a reasonably priced option is for you to get another one from a vendor on the web, already flashed with the latest manufacturer's update.
E.g. You can get a soldered in bios chip replaced, if you are in the US, or get such a replacement bios chip here:
Some MSI models, or two or more mboard revisions of a model, look identical in pictures.
Sometimes the only difference is visually hidden - the one main chip under the heatsink is different. If you are considering flashing the bios, if in doubt, release the pins holding the heatsink on the main chip on the back side of the mboard to confirm which actual chip is under it, and compare that to the specs for the model or revision you think it is (if the mboard is already installed, remove it so you can do that).