"The beep codes vs 4 = timer, the solution for that was to completely unplug remove battery for one hour and re-install battery. No change (though should the PC come back, may have to re-install the bios)"
If the timer error beeps were actually because of something that had failed on the mboard, that would not go away no matter what you did.
Removing the Cmos battery only needs to be done for, say, 15 seconds, then you install it again.
You should have normal video video while booting when there's nothing else wrong and ram that is compatible with the mboard is installed even when the Cmos battery is dead or is not installed.
Installing the wrong size of the right type of ram , itself , can't cause your problem (any way I know of) with your original ram, unless it's installed backwards in the ram slot, in which case both the ram module and the circuits of the slot it was installed in are both fried instantly when you boot the computer, you smell a burnt plasticy smell, and you may see a puff of smoke, and even in that case, if there is any undamaged ram slot left, that can usually be recovered from by cleaning up the black carbon and melted plastic that bridges contacts in the ram slot, then install a good compatible module in an undamaged ram slot.
"DID and DO remove AC power."
Very good. Some people didn't do that.
"No VID card added or changed. Original graphics/vid card is an NVIDIA GeFORCE 6800 ultra,..."
The Geforce 6800 video chipset will probably work fine with a system that has a 250 watt capacity power supply or higher.
Opened the power supply up and well...
Looks like one of the larger ceramic resistors has been toasting out over a period. Two of the caps were also quite bulged, tho no leaks. "
The cause of power supplies malfunctioning and eventually failing is often one or more failing or failed electrolytic capacitors, especially when it's an el-cheapo model, which is most often what brand name system builders use. It's more likely that ther failing damaged the ceramic resistor rather than the other way around.
Another common cause of a PS failing is it's fan no longer spins, and it has overheated and damaged itself.
The capacitors should not be bulged on the top at all. Since the power supply still managed to boot the computer most of the time until recently, they may have not reached the stage where they leak, or they may have been emitting vapour.
I have one Sparkle power supply that was still working but you could hear a faint ssssssssss sound like a kettle makes when it's heating slowly and it's otherwise quiet in the room, when the computer was not running but it still had live AC power to it. I opened it up and found several capacitors were bulged and venting vaporized liquid.
"I do remember the wife saying that some times the PC wouldn't start up, indications? I suppose there was our clue. "
Yes, it was a clue. Failing power supplies often intermittently have problems before the computer fails to boot all the time.
Failing or failed capacitors on the mboard can cause similar symptoms.
"I went ahead and dusted the CBS with a can of air and vacuum with a mini VAX attachment,"
DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner to do that inside the case - they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity when running, and anything connected to them can discharge that to your components - use canned air, or an air nozzle if you have access to an air compressor, or an artist's brush that can be used in small spaces, etc.
Unfortunately, a failing power supply can damage something else, often just the mboard, while failing..The more el-cheapo the PS is, the more likely something else will be damaged.
If you have another working desktop computer, try the PS from that first with your problem computer before you buy one.
If the mboard still won't boot with the original ram, it's probably the mboard itself that has been damaged by the failing PS, and you may want to spend your money on another computer instead.
Don't buy an el-cheapo (in quality) PS.
See response 3 in this:
I no longer recommend Cooler Master, AOpen, or Sparkle power supplies.
I'm now downgrading Thermaltake to middle of the road.
Antec has two lines of PSs - the better line has a longer warranty for the same or similar capacity - the other line is more towards middle of the road.
AMD has a list of Certified (tested and found to be good quality) PSs:
Thanks for the thank you and the kind words to myself and to those who answered otherwise.
My reward is the satisfaction of having actually helped you to solve your problem(s).