|I was just reading an article today about free web developer tools:|
Although it's 2 years old, it does list a program that's supposedly a good replacement of Dreamweaver called NVU. The posted link was moved, so try this one:
I've never heard of NVU, but I can't really give you any personal WYSIWYG editor suggestions because I code all my web applications by hand in Notepad++. It's like Notepad on steroids with awesome features like syntax highlighting, line numbering, advanced find/replace, spellchecker, and supports a large list of programming & development languages.
Using a simple text editor like Notepad (don't use Word) allows you to fully customize the website. Admittedly, I haven't used Dreamweaver in years, so I don't know how good it is now, but I found it poorly conformed with newer web standards. Coding it by yourself allows you to better understand web development and go beyond the limitations of the WYSIWYG editor. There are a number of good tutorial and resource sites out there, but I'd start with W3Schools.com
After grasping xHTML 1 (or HTML 4) and CSS 2.1, look at the upcoming and continually supported new standards: HTML 5 and CSS 3.
Apologies if I don't respond to your reply immediately. I don't check this site daily, but you're welcome to PM me as a reminder.