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In order to provide broadband access to each room in our home, am I correct in thinking that I would install a CAT5/RJ45 socket in each room and install CAT5 cabling to each of these sockets which would then terminate in a particular room where I would plug all the leads into a suitable router, along with the line in cable and power supply?
Thereby, I could then plug a PC in any room and a CAT5 cable into the wall socket and have access to the internet?
I will also need advice as to which router would be suitable, number of connective rooms would be about 8.
I will have 4 desktops connected full time and two portable notebooks using the remaining connections.
All computers will run XP-PRO, Athlon 64 4GB CPU's, 4GB RAM's, etc.
I also want to have a couple of external harddrives stored with the router to send any works to from any PC for back up storage; what would I need to do for this?
Many thanks for any help/advice on this; I'm sure it's pretty elementary stuff but I wouldn't know one way or the other!
Regards
emnade
Yes, only I would use Cat5e cable, not Cat5.
Thereby, I could then plug a PC in any room and a CAT5 cable into the wall socket and have access to the internet?
Yes.
I will also need advice as to which router would be suitable, number of connective rooms would be about 8.
There are many routers. Linksys and DLink are two of the better brands. The most LAN ports I've seen on any router of this type is 4 so you'll likely need a switch as well as a router. I would buy an 8 port switch to go along with the router. Your setup would look as follows in your "wiring closet" (for lack of a better term):
Modem >> Router (external interface/WAN port) >> Router (internal interface/LAN port) >> Switch >> clients
You can of course plug clients into the ports on the router as well if it has more than one LAN port.
I also want to have a couple of external harddrives stored with the router to send any works to from any PC for back up storage; what would I need to do for this?
You would likely require a PC to plug the external hard drives into as I doubt they can be plugged into the router. I would choose one PC you already own (unless you have a spare) and use it as your primary backup PC and attach the externals to it.
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YOu're close. Generally, when you use those wall jacks, the cables terminate in whatever room to a punch block. Then you would connect a cat5 cable for each of the stations in use from the block to a switch. (They will be numbered) The switch gets connected to the router and the router to the modem using the uplink port. Modern switches can use any port for the uplink.
A basic Linksys router would work. The same for the switch. Make sure the switch has enough ports.
The external HDs get connected to PCs, not to the router.
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LAN NAS Drives are avaiable and are PC independent.
http://www.data-recovery-reviews.com/what-is-nas.htm?gclid=CK_2t87n4YUCFVAgMAoduwToRA
This is going to take an awful lot of cabling, have you considered Mains Networking, which is better than WiFi and very flexable ??http://www.solwise.co.uk/net-powerline.htm
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Don's approach is the prefered/best method, but use Cat5e or Cat6. Several years a go I wired every room in my brother's house (5k sq ft, 12 rooms) using this method.
I would highly recommend running a minimum of 2 runs per room. 1 for the computer and 1 for any other network device, such as a printer or NAS file server (external Ethernet HD that doesn't need to be connected to a computer).
In the "wiring closet" (which is the proper term), terminate the runs to a patch panel which is mounted in a wallmount rack. The rack should be big enough to hold the patch panel, switch, DSL/cable modem, and router.
Here are a few examples for the wiring closet parts, but you'd want to research others.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/racksWM.htm
http://www.unicomlink.com/products/cross_connectivity/cat5e_patch_panels.asp
http://www.rackmountsolutions.net/Rackmount_Shelves_2%20Point.asp
http://www.netgear.com/products/details/JFS516.php
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In a home environment a patch panel is not worth the money if you have less than 12 cables as a 12 port patch panel is the smallest I've ever seen. For what it takes, I'd just put RJ-45's on the end in the wiring closet. You don't have to purchase a patch panel or patch cables to go from the PP to the switch/router.
Just be sure to leave enough extra cable at the wiring closet end to reach your switch.
Pulling two extra cables per room isn't a bad idea if you have the $. The one device FishMonger didn't mention is VOIP phones. You never know, you may want to go VOIP and this would give you the extra wall jack connections to do so.
I wouldn't worry about spending $ on a rack either as you can build one for a few dollars out of wood. All you require is a place to set the DSL/Cable modem, the router and switch.One word of warning. Manufacturers can be very proprietary so make sure when you buy your faceplates and keystones to buy from the same manufacturer. You'll also need a punch down tool for doing the keystones (and patch panel if you go that route) and an RJ-45 crimper.
Yes, it's nice to have all the fancy stuff if you can afford it. But if money is a consideration, and you have less than 12 cables to connect, then definately skip buying the patch panel and wall mount rack.
One last thing, you don't need Cat6. Cat5e will carry 1000 Mbps speed easily and Cat6 is a lot more expensive. I doubt you'll ever need more than 1000 Mbps bandwidth in your house.
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Curt is right, the patch panel and wall mount rack are not required. However, I prefer to follow professional installation standards even for home networking. The patch panel is not only cleaner and more professional, but also makes it easier to label/document each connection. If you price shop, you can get good quality equipment at low cost. I spent about $100 for the patch panel and rack that I installed, which is about the cost of a box of cable.
Unless you're planning on using plenum cable, there is little difference in cost between Cat5e and Cat6 when purchasing the bulk 1,000 box/reel. The main advantage of using Cat6 in this situation is for better shielding which reduces attenuation and cross talk. So, installing additional runs per room now is a minor cost, especially if consider the added cost down the road when you find that you need to install additional runs to accommodate the additional devices (VOIP phones, printers, NAS drives, etc).
In the end, if you have a maximum of 8 connections and want a low cost non-professional home network setup, then skip the patch panel, rack, and separate switch and go with an 8 port dsl router such as the Netgear FVS318. You can also get 16 port routers, but now you're moving to the business class routers which are more expensive. Most SOHO routers and modems have optional wall mount brackets, so you won't even need to make a wooden shelf.
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Thank you kindly for your replies. I obviously had the basic idea of how it works, if not precisely, but the proliferation of what can be done therein and thereafter causes me to drop down a gear as some of the things mentioned I know nothing about!
I have had to net-search some of the terms etc. used in your replies to try and get up to speed with where I am with this.
I will further my opening thread and make reciprocal comments and remarks therein and hopefully we can move further forward with this:
We have bought a property to fully refurbish. The process will involve amongst other things, re-wiring and re-plastering as part of the process. This gives us the perfect opportunity to install all the cabling etc. required for this network proposal.
Having read the responses, I see the best way to do this is:
4 upstairs bedrooms, games room, office and workshop need connectivity. (Do we need connectivity in lounge for any of our media devices? Sky T.V, Video, Audio Systems, Phone points etc? Reason for asking, I don't know what can be done or what we may be overlooking here?)
I understand the CAT5/5e/6 cabling for the PC connection. Does the suggested second and even third 'runs' mean having up to three separate CAT cables with separate faceplates in each of the designated rooms?
And does this also mean that for eight rooms, the 'Switch' needs to have 24 ports at the back, plus a couple more for the router and modem etc?
After the net-search, I found that NAS was a Network Attached Storage device; does this mean an external hard drive that plugs into the switch via a CAT cable?
Also, do printers plug into the switch via a CAT cable too? Our current printer has no CAT ports so I assume we need 'network printers' too?
We are pretty handy so we will be utilising part of the very large cloakroom we have to create a 'wiring closet'. We will send all the cabling through the first floor joist network and send it to the wiring closet ceiling, and then down the wall line. All the cables will run down the wall at this point and terminate at a custom built 'rack' which will house a 'switch', 'router', 'modem', 'NAS drives', etc.
We will build a stud partition to hide all the cables down the wall and terminate the cables appropriately into the switch.
I have a Netgear router/modem (DG834G). Is this any good for the job, saving me buying new separates? Obviously I will need a switch regardless.
Are the 'switches' pretty on par or can anyone recommend a particular model?
Finally, can anyone further the comments made regarding Mains Networking? I haven't heard of this before, is it new to the market? Does it compare with CAT cabling?
Best regards
emnade
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I would put a jack or 2 in the lounge in case you want to surf and watch TV at the same time.
The NAS device would be connected by a cat5 cable and is a storage device and a router. It can also to VPN. BOSS is one such device.
Some printers don't have cat5 jacks but a print server takes care of that if you don't want to connect it to a PC. I have onlyu used the small dlink print server and I would just as soon connect the printer to a machine and share it that way.
The netgear router should be ok. Switches can be piggy backed so you don't need a 24 port switch yet but it's ok to have one. CompUSA had one for a good price.
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Excellent. Please keep the responses coming in, we're learning as we go here and it's all making very interesting reading.
Ok, this is getting interesting. Up to press and subject to your replies, research, pricing etc. we are now fully decided on:
1) 4x CAT6 cables terminating in each room to their respective faceplates/keystones. This should keep it up to date for the forseeable future.
2) Rooms to network: 4x bedrooms, games room, office (3 sets cabling), living room, workshop, sitting room.
3) Patch panel in wiring closet (Fishmonger is right - with all that cabling coming down the wall in that room [boxed in], it would be suicide not to terminate it in a panel that can be properly labelled etc., particularly as the sum of incoming cables will now be in the region of 44).
I assume we would now need something like a Netgear JFS524 24 port switch x2, leaving 4 'spare' ports to attach the network storage, router, modem to the switch?
We will still build a bespoke 'rack' as we can allow the necessary space for the switch, router, modem, storage etc. and also use the remaining tower space to store associated periphery and consumables etc. to keep everything all neat and tidy.
Do/should 'racks' have fan units installed to keep the heat generation down to protect the units and provide longevity of life of the hardware...?
Also, if anyone would like to add any furthering comments, advice etc. we'd be very grateful.
Overall, I am confident that we are getting where we need to be and thank you all to date.
Best regards
emnade
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Plenum refers to the type of material used for the cable sheathing. The sheathing on most network cables is PVC or similar material. The difference between plenum and the other materials shows up when you have a fire. As it burns PVC puts out lots of smoke and toxic chemicals, plenum cables don’t. For this reason, most areas require the use of plenum cables in commercial installations. You may need/want to use the plenum depending on building requirements in your area.
Are you planning on putting the 4 runs per room into separate outlet boxes? If so, there’s no need, there are faceplates that support up to 6 terminations in a single gang box (standard electrical outlet box). In the installation I did for my brother I ran 2 cat6 for network, 1 cat5e for phone, and 1 RG6 (quad shield) coax for satellite/TV per box.
What about you phone cabling? The phone cabling in almost all homes is normally daisy chained because it’s the easiest and most economical to install, but is not the best method. If you want to do it right, you should do home runs for the phone lines just as you need to do with network cabling. So, you’ll want/need 2 patch panels in the wiring closet, 1 for the network and 1 for the phone lines.
There are 2 wiring standards for Ethernet cabling, called T568a and T568b and refer to the color coding and pin outs of the terminations. You need to make sure the patch panel and jacks use the same wiring pattern, 568b is the most common. The patch panel for the phone cabling uses a different standard called USOC. So make sure you match up that panel and the phone jacks. The phone lines will also have another connection point called a 66-block. The 66-block is used to transition from the phone company’s demark box to the patch panel.
If your rack is an enclosed cabinet, it will require at least 2 ventilation fans. If it’s an open rack, then as long as the room is kept at a reasonable/comfortable temperature, you won’t need the fans.
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You may want to look into using bundled cable (multiple cables wrapped together) which will make it easier to install multiple runs of different types of cable. You can get it in various configurations of types of cables.
You'll also want to look into your cabling needs for audio/video, but I'm not very knowledgeable in that area.
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I don't think you will need fans in the wiring room but make sure you have at least 2 separate 15 amp circuits from the breaker box.
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Good plan overall. If you have the cash, definately do it right the first time.
FishMonger's right about the phones. You will want to do them for sure since you're doing all the rest. You can run the phones with network cable as well.
I don't know about Cat6 for phones, so far I've only used Cat5e, but I see no reason 6 wouldn't work just as well. I do know Cat5e works just fine.
My point being, if you buy a box of cable, and you should, you'll probably have more than enough for both data and telephone.
The bundled stuff sounds like a good idea too and I wouldn't overlook it.
With Cat5e (or 6) you need only use one twisted pair of wires out of the cable you pull and actually can use the other 3 pairs at later date should you ever require another hard wired phone (or phones) in that room.
I would spend the money on a UPS for your wiring closet. You can get some pretty good small ones from APC. This also gives your equipment surge protection and come with a nice warranty.
To make sure you have good airflow in the closet put in two grills. A grill above the equipment rack and one below, in the door for example, would give you good airflow.
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The electrical requirements that Don brings up is important, but I don't see the need for “at least 2” circuits. 1 dedicated 15 amp circuit is all that's needed in the wiring closet. We're only talking about 3 or 4 network devices and maybe a couple small 4” computer fans. Most if not all of these items, with the exception of the switch use a transformer to step the power down to 9 or 12 volt DC.
Curt has brought up the cost issue a couple times and it is also very important. However, you need to look at balancing the material cost with the labor cost. Labor is most often the most expensive part of remolding even when you're doing the labor yourself. All your network and phone cabling can be done with a single box of cable, however, since you're needing to make several cable runs per room, you need to consider the labor it takes to pull 3 separate cables (2 network and 1 phone) to the same location as apposed to using multiple boxes of cable and pull all at the same time. My brother's project was a major remodel (down to the studs throughout the house), but a large portion of the runs were in the crawl space under the house and in the rafters. The more cables you can run in a single pull the better. My total material cost for doing the network, phone, and TV was under $1,000. The total cost of the remodel was 2.5 million
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Ok. I understand what Plenum cable is now and am considering the same.
I take Fishmonger's advice on the 6-point termination plates. Am I right in assuming that I can run the 4x CAT6 data cables to 4 of these terminals and use another terminal for the phone line?
Also, do I read right that a fifth CAT6 cable can be used as a phone line by way of separating a twisted pair wires from the core and using these?
If that is the case, I would already have another 3 'sets' of twisted wiring terminating at the faceplates and wiring closet, therefore I may as well use another set of twisted and put two phone lines and four data cables into 6-point termination plates at very little further cost. Please confirm.
Next to the 6-point terminals and using the same cabling routes, I can run an RG6 coax to each of these rooms and have satellite TV throughout.
Will I need 3 patch panels altogether? Network, phones & satellite tv?
I'm struggling with the following comments regarding the phone lines...
...the patch panel for the phone cabling uses a different standard called USOC. So make sure you match up that panel and the phone jacks. The phone lines will also have another connection point called a 66-block. The 66-block is used to transition from the phone company’s demark box to the patch panel...
Would you please explain this in more detail as my current vision of how the CAT6 phone lines is good from the room terminals back to the wiring closet and then I have (for each wired room) a CAT6 cable end with 2x 2 twisted strands in use as the phone lines...; do these ends wire into the phone patch panel and mmm... I am not seeing the configuration here? Please respond assuming the CAT6 split strand configuration is going to be used, thank you.
The rack will be open configuration with slotted shelving to allow all round airflow so this point is fine, thank you again.
As for audio, I intend to install 4x flushed speakers in each ceiling and have the wires directed in the joist voids to the faceplates' host wall, channelled down the wall section to what I assume would be a faceplate with a female audio jack for taking male jack plugs from the amplifiers? Still researching this..., same for the video cabling? I think I'll A/V forum this issue unless anyone can throw further light on this.
I may invest in a UPS if I can get one for the right money. I don't see it as critical but I definitely see the merits and benefits of having one, many thanks for this (I didn't even know they existed!)
Many, many thanks for all your help to date...
Best regards
emnade
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This site may help answer some of your questions.
http://www.jimhayes.com/uncleted/index.html
When I have a little more free time, I'll fill in more details.
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Also, do I read right that a fifth CAT6 cable can be used as a phone line by way of separating a twisted pair wires from the core and using these?
Yes. That's exactly what I was getting at. Where I work, we've been replacing all the old phone cables with Cat5e. We use the Blue/Blue White as the primary phone line and if more are needed we do them in order; Orange/Orange White, Green/Green White and finally Brown/Brown White. We do it this way because we terminate those to BIX blocks. BIX blocks differ from 66-Blocks and 66's is what you'll want to use at home. What color you decide to use isn't that important, just make sure you do it the same throughout your house.
If that is the case, I would already have another 3 'sets' of twisted wiring terminating at the faceplates and wiring closet, therefore I may as well use another set of twisted and put two phone lines and four data cables into 6-point termination plates at very little further cost. Please confirm
Sure why not if you think you might need 2 phones. Filling all 6 holes would mean not having to buy blanks to fill unused holes.
Good site FishMonger. A nice simple explanation. Oh, I was checking a catalog at work today from one of our cabling suppliers and they had combo cable packages that included several data (Cat5e or 6) and video as well. Something like that would negate having to buy multiple boxes of Cat6 and having a whole lot of left over cable when you're finished. Doing multiple cables at once is always a better idea than a single box and multiple pulls to the same spot. That's a tedious solution to say the least but cost effective and doesn't leave you with 6 boxes of left over Cat6 cable. Go with what you can afford for sure.
One other thing regarding the wiring closet. You will want to put a good solid piece of plywood as your backing behind the Patch Panels, switch rack and 66-Block. I'd measure up how much you need, cut it to size, paint it (so it looks decent) and mount it before you mount the switch rack, patch panels and 66-Block onto it. This way you don't have to worry about locating studs (other than to mount the plywood) when you go to mount rack/panels/block.
I would put the patch panels above the switch rack on one side of the plywood and the 66-block on the other.
Go to a local computer store and ask them to show you some APC UPS's. There are some that are small and reasonably priced that would suit your needs. I highly recommend you spend the money on one as losing any equipment due to voltage spike or brown out is never fun.
Your idea about wiring speakers is an awesome idea. I was going to mention it and indeed started to type it out before I finished reading your whole response.......LOL.
I helped a friend of mine a year or two back wire his whole house for speakers (he's a major stereo fanatic) and he loves it. No more speaker wire strung across the floor. No more removing baseboards to run them behind etc etc.
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Quick reply, will be back shortly to respond fully...
Fishmonger, re Jim Hayes site; fibre optic cable; is this the very best medium for network cabling?? If it is, I have seen 2000 metres of 8 core fibre optic cable on eBay for £500. I assume all the hardware will be more expensive but if this stuff is optimum performance and future proof, it is worth me looking at...
Any quick guiders will be appreciated until I get time to come back to the latest responses.
Regards
emnade
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Further... I see that the fibre cable can be used for CATV; does this also mean I could use the fibre optic cable for data, phone, satellite tv, audio cabling etc. and get optimum signal performance for all these using fibre cable...
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More...
http://www.erg.abdn.ac.uk/users/gorry/course/lan-pages/10bf.html
states that Fibre Optic Ethernet (10BF)
A summary of the properties of this type of cabling is given below:
Segment length <1 km (< 2km for the later version) *
High noise immunity
No electrical path (protected from lightning strikes to the cable)
External transceiver required.
Used for point-to-point links (i.e. connecting a pair of repeaters)
Easy to upgrade (future networks will support this media)Does this mean no spikes possible with this cable?
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I wouldn't bother with fibre to be honest. Aside from being more expensive at the outset, it requires very expensive specialized tools to terminate it. You can buy preterminated fibre, but that's more expensive than unterminated. You also require a media converter to change from fibre to copper in your wiring closet and possibly at the other end as well. All associated equipment (ie: NIC's etc) will be more expensive as well.
Present copper technology will carry 1 Gbps. 10 Gbps over copper is presently being standardized. I would stick with copper as it is and will remain, more than adequate for your needs and save you money over going with fibre.
If you reread the first paragraph of the web page you posted a link for above, it states it all too clearly:
One form of cabling supported by Ethernet is fibre optic cable. This type of cable is expensive to purchase and difficult to install. Its primary use is to interconnect buildings and to connect equipment which is too remote for connection using other types of cabling (e.g. 10B5, 10B2, or 10BT)
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