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My family and I are starting to build a new house. The contracter is very stingy with prices, so I have been elected to do all of the networking and phone lines.
Where we are at now a 1 story house, I just have a wireless lan setup for the 4 computers in the house. It works okay, some parts of the house has a weak signal.
Now in the new house, I am not sure how to wire everything. I am pretty good with computers, but have not tackled anything of this magnitude. I was thinking about having one LAN line on each floor with a wlan repeater coming out of that line. That would allow the whole house to recieve a signal.
Any advice, or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. If there is an easier way of doing this let me know. For the moment being I am just kind of confused.

Personally i would steer away from wireless, its too unrealable, well at least from my experience
I can only get a signla up stairs (the access point is up stairs) and as soon as 1 wall is placed in the way, i get disconnected constanly every 5 mins or so
If possible, wire it up. That way you have a stable network, which runs at a stable high speed. Just make sure you do a good job of making a tiding job of the wiring

Cable is cheap. If I were you, I'd decide where to place a wired router and then run cables from there to as many rooms as possible, and coil some extra cable at both ends. The ends do not need to be terminated at this point, just get the cable in the walls and remember where they are in case you decide to access them. I would offer the same advice for telephone wire, unless you intend to use cordless phones. Nevertheless, even cordless phone bases need to be wired.
You can always decide later whether to continue with a wired network or go with wireless or a wired/wireless combo. Trust me...you'll be sorry if you don't get those cables in while the studs are exposed -- I know I am.

You will not be able to run wiring in your new house unless you are low level electrical certified and you have a permit.
If you attempt to do so and the building inspector catches you the inspector will halt the building project, fine you, and the contractor won't be able to proceed until you have filed for the proper permit and have contracted with a licensed contractor.
With that said I would highly recommend running telephone/network cable/cable for cable to all rooms. Once the sheetrock is up the opportunity is gone.
Hard wired is the way to go if new construction.
PAY THE CONTRACTOR TO DO THE JOB and don't be stingy.

I have a few basic questions:
1) What kind of cabling should I use? cat? cat5?
2) Is it difficult to put the caps on the cable?
3) What kind of router should I use in the closet where everything terminates? (Money is a big issue.)Any links would be appreciated.
More than likely if it isn't too dificult, I will run the wire to every room, I just may not plut it into the router.

My step-dad is an electrician (certified) he is just used to commercial jobs, not residential.
We have gotten permission from the builder and everything.

Ethernet uses CAT5e wiring. If you don't know how to wire Ethernet there are numerous DYI books on the subject. Or, just pick up a Home Networking Kit from a computer store and an extra roll of CAT5E wire and some junctions. The network kit will have instructions and tools for building connectors and the extra wire will make sure you have enough to wire the whole house.
Use just regular wall boxes like for switches and mount these on the studs where you think you'll be placing the computer in the room. Right next to the phone line isn't a bad idea (in fact, they make a wall plate with a phone connector and Ethernet connector built into it. You run both wires to the one box.)
Wiring an Ethernet network is just like running a phone line. Put a box in the wall whereever you think you'll need a connection and run wire up the studs and along the joists to where your router will sit. This should be fairly close to where your Internet connection (phone line or cable) will come into the room and I would plan on using a 2nd-floor room for the router station.
Ethernet cables should never be longer than 150' so if you plan to run a line way out to the far side of the garage, plan on putting a hub or network switch about halfway into between and bring the cable out of the wall there so you can connect it when the house is built.
An 8-port router will run you about $150 and has more than enough ports for most home networks. You can get by with a 4-port if you're on a budget and pick up a 4-port network switch if you ever want to expand. Get one with a built-in print server so you can share your printer across the network easily.
If you need more than one connection to a room run 2 lines or plan on using a switch in that room when you set up. It's a little easier to use a switch, I think.

Thanks for all of the useful information.
What is the difference between a switch and a router? I have noticed that all of the gigabit network equipment are switches.

Worry about the switches or router later.
Just install the boxes on the studs and pull the wire before the walls go up. Please allow a few feet extra to make connections.
The max length is 100 meters (328 ft) per run. Make sure you label the ends. You are probably not going to gigabyte speeds. Get rolls (1000 ft) of cat5 for network and cat3 for telephone and pull them at the same time.
You may need more than one one roll of each.
Watch out for pinched cables and kinks. If you have wood studs you will have to drill holes.

Yeah, that's what my step-dad said too. He said I was thinking too hard about it. One step at a time.

Im not to sure if this would work but I just put an 802.11 b Microsoft network in my father inlaws house for a laptop. and it works great within 30 ft of the base station and very easy to set up on Xp home machines. But my Idea is that you could use both wireless and hard wire. 802.11 b is getting really cheep. The base station was 20 buck after rebates. So my Idea is to use acouple of base station kind of like a repeator.
From what I found on the slower 802.11 b that for internet second floor was not a problem in a house that was built in 1972. Outside about 30 feet from the base I had 2 bars drop off ( kind of like a cell phone signal bar ) but internet worked great. ( Im hooked)
So My idea, seeing as running wires is such a pain, and 802.11 b is so cheep///start with a 4 port base station , if you have a loptop run around the house with a wireless nic card and find your weak signals, if the 3rd floor has bad signal run 1 wire ( cat5 , 5e or 6 ) to a second base station. Might sound like a pain , but wireless is pretty easy to set up. What do you think. ~Sam

I've not had many problems with Wireless. I get good singals up to 30ft in my home and at work. and 54Mbit/s is fast enought for most things. My concerns with wireless are that you setup encryption properly and only allow access from specified MAC addresses. I've no idea about the practicalities of laying ethernet cables in a home but I can answer your router/switch question. The most basic connection between 2 PC's is a crossover cable between the PC's network cards. To connect more than 2 PC's together you use a HUB but when one PC sends out a packet of info all the PC's recieve it and if it's not for them they drop it. a router routes packets between different networks so if you have a PC connected to the internet (host) and another PC gets to the internet via that PC (slave) the host PC is acting as a router. a switch is a hub with routing abilities but just routes messages between PC's on your network. It remembers what PC is connected to what port so when a packet is recieved it can just send it to the relevent PC rather than all PC's on your network getting the packet.

I have a 3-story split level house. I am using a wired/wireless network and have had the router on the top floor and the wireless computer on the bottom floor and have had no connection problems. I use a linksys router. Its something to consider verses running all that cable. Also the connectors are not that easy to install correctly. Done it.

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