|Tell us the make and model of your brand name system, or if you have a generic desktop system, the make and model of the mboard. |
The specific model of a brand name system is often shown on a label on the outside of the case somewhere, or it can often be determined by going to the brand name's web site and loading a program they have available, if Windows is still working, on the subject computer.
If it's a Dell computer...
Go here for how to find the Service tag "number":
Tell us what it is.
If it's a HP or Compaq computer.....
Scroll down a bit.
Look for the similar label on the outside of your computer.
Quote the specific model number - that's at the end of the first line.
Quote the Product number - that's on the third line.
The model, sometimes the make, of a mboard in a generic desktop system is usually printed on the mboard's surface in obvious larger characters, often between the slots.
Unless you have an OLD laptop computer, or you're using Win 95 or older, you don't need to install drivers for an optical (CD or DVD) drive.They're built into the operating system.
Are you SURE the drive is capable of reading the type of disk you inserted ?
CD-Rom (only) or CD burner (only) drives can't read DVDs.
Some drives can't read CD-RAM or DVD-RAM burnable disks
The laser lens may be "dirty".
Try using a laser lens cleaning CD in the drive. If you don't have one you SHOULD have one. Most places that sell CDs or DVDs sell them, and even some "dollar" stores have them for a buck or two.
Or, if this is a laptop computer, eject the drive's tray and with no disk on the tray, wipe off the obvious laser lens with a tissue or a soft cloth.
Check for no spin.
Insert a CD that has markings or a label on it's top side in the tray, note it's position, close the tray - the led should come on for a bit - when the led goes out, eject the CD, note it's position. If the position is the same or close to it, the motor is not spinning the CD. You can re-try that several times to make sure.
The optical drive is dead if....
- it does spin a disk at all when a disk is inserted
- it does not open and close it's tray when you press the button on the front of it
- if the led on the front of it does NOT briefly light up when you open and close it's tray when there is no disk on it
- if the led on the front of it DOES briefly light up when you open and close it's tray when there IS a disk on it, then the led comes on or blinks on and off for quite a while. Windows, and the bios while booting, doesn't recognize there is a disk in the drive. (The motor can no longer spin at even 1X speed, or it starts to spin but stops.)
If you have a desktop computer, if it does not have any of those symptoms, but the disk is not recognized, there may be a problem with the data cable for the drive.
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
80 wire data cables must have the proper end connector connected to the mboard IDE header - usually that's blue, but in any case it's the one farther from the middle connector on a 3 connector data cable.
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.