I'd like to have a look but I don't give out my e-mail. Can you put them on a site such as Photobucket.com, then post links to the pics? The BIOS string *should* tell you exactly who manufacturered the board...the details are in an earlier response. I'm still unclear on what you're attempting to do with this system? It's not an XP worthy machine, so you're stuck with Win9x/ME. If you were to modify Windows with 98Lite like I suggested in your other thread, it would really bring it to life, but you'd still be running a 10 yr old OS. And Win9x/ME is rapidly losing 3rd party software support, especially anti-virus. If this box is just something to experiment on, you might wanna start looking into some of the lightweight Linux distros such as Puppy. http://www.puppylinux.org/downloads...

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"I do question why you're investing so much time in a very old & very crappy motherboard." I have 2 computers, my newer, custom-built one (which I finally have on the internet), and my older Compaq, which I use as an "expirimenting" computer. Besides, it works like brand new. As far as reliability goes, I can count on my old one more than I can on my newer one. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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I have no less than 4 computers running at any one time - 2 primaries, 1 dedicated Linux box, 1 test box, plus whatever else I might be playing around with or repairing at the time. I have a huge box of socket 7 gear & in that box are at least three SiS530 boards. Believe me, I know from experience that they suck. Will they run? sure. Fast? hell no! Stable? That's debateable. The SiS530 never was a good performing chipset to begin with...it was used on low budget systems (typical of the majority of SiS products). If you wanna cling to it out of nostalgia, that's fine, but be realistic about your expectations. It's not worth throwing any money at. I give away systems like that all the time...like the IBM Aptiva that I mentioned in your other thread. I finally got it running to the point where I'm happy with the performance (Win98 modded w/98Lite using the Win95 shell), I added a few 3rd party programs & old games (DOOM95 for example), & I'm offering it up on freecycle. You still haven't said what it is you wanna be able to do with it? Internet, games, word processing? If it is strictly for experimentation, I strongly suggest you try 98Lite...it's totally free. I have the Pro version which offers a few extras such as the "98Micro install", but the free preview version has all the rest of the configurations (Sleek, Chubby & Overweight). If you have a Win95 CD, I recommend "Sleek"...if not, go with "Chubby". It's a very small download (fits on a single floppy) & can be installed after Windows, although doing a clean install is preferrable. http://www.litepc.com/preview.html

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Where did you ever get the idea you had a Presario 7470? This is your mboard: http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/sp... It was used in: Presario 5300 series 11774x-xxx (any of 18) 123956-004 or 123956-404 Presario 5700 series 123957-009 If the mboard is still in it's original case, look for the nine digit number on the label on the outside of the case. If it's in the 5700 series I have some additional info.

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It will make a good work computer. Yes, it is slow, but it's extremely stable. It never quits. I Have Microsoft Office 2000 Premium installed on it. (And my newer computer) Would lowering/Raising the CPU multiplier risk damaging the CPU? If it doesn't, I want to lower the multiplier (currently at 4.5x) to 3x so I can run Windows 95. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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Why would you even consider 95? Win98 modded using 98Lite & the Win95 shell will give you all the speed of 95 but with all the added software & hardware support of 98. It gets rid of all the desktop & folder web integration that slows 98 down & it allows for the removal of numerous Windows add-ons - stuff that you normally wouldn't have the option to uninstall. You can trim about 100MB off a standard Win98 installation. Internet Explorer can be dumped altogether & replaced with a faster, more lightweight browser such as Firefox or Opera. I guarantee that once you master it, you'll never do another 98/ME install without it.

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"I Have Microsoft Office 2000 Premium installed on it. (And my newer computer)" Have you tried OpenOffice? http://www.openoffice.org/

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Win 95 doesn't have a max cpu speed limit - why would you want to slow it down? Part number of your mboard: 120694-101 MUSTANG-S - super Socket 7, 100mhz fsb (K6-2 support) - SiS 530/5595 Chipset - unknown maker (I got that from a site that no longer exists) Sounds like a name Mitac would use. If that's the case, the pinout wiring for the switch and the leds, what I said about there being no pins that work for a case speaker, and the USB header pinouts if it has one, may be the same as for the Camaro mboard. I found some info that was formerly on the Compaq FTP site, that was on the now non-existant mobokive site, that was rescued by another wise soul. Your mboard was used in the Presario 5330, 5340, 5345, 5360, 5365 The info in these is probably all the same. Click on the *.html file to see the mboard diagram and the jumper settings for the cmos, multiplier, fsb speed, and the cpu voltage http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... MSG 5300.zip here - Maintenance and Service Guide - for the Presario 5300 series http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... Ignore the other MSG - that uses a different mboard. ...... MSG 5700.zip here - for the Presario 5700 series - it mentions and shows 120694-101 but most of the info is about other mboards, and there are mistakes in it. http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/Archi... None of the listed 57xx models show this mboard. ........ I have read that the older Sis chipsets like yours couldn't actually reach 100mhz fsb speeds, and that in reality they run at about 90mhz when set to the 100mhz setting. If you test the mboard with something such as Sysoft Sandra, you may see the actual cpu speed is slower than stated by the mboard. ........ If you compare the muliplier settings combos stated to the ones possible, there is probably one setting combination not in the above that sets the multiplier to X2 for a Pentium cpu - a K6-2 or K6-III cpu interprets that setting on the cpu itself as X6. A K6-2+ 550 cpu will easily run at 600mhz on most super socket 7 mboards when the multiplier is set to X2. (note the + - they were made later on for use on notebooks, and used a lower cpu voltage).

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"Click on the *.html file to see the mboard diagram and the jumper settings for the cmos, multiplier, fsb speed, and the cpu voltage" If you download the *.html file to your computer, the sbjmpr.jpg file must be downloaded to the same folder on your hard drive.

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Thanks, this is great info! When I found out that my copy of Windows 98 had a corrupted file, I decided to install Windows 95. Windows 95 won't start on a cpu faster than 300 Mhz. I have a picture of the whole computer I took that I will send you. BTW, will setting the CPU multiplier higher or lower hurt the CPU? -Trent Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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If this computer is a Compaq/HP Dell,, then you CANNOT overclock nothing in the bios.

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"BTW, will setting the CPU multiplier higher or lower hurt the CPU?" I already answered that question in your other thread: "If you set it lower, the CPU will run slower. If you set it higher, you'll be overclocking the CPU & the system will probably fail to boot. You could try a combination of the two though...lower the multi to 4x & raise the bus to 112MHz. The CPU will still run at 450MHz, but you'll have the benefit of the faster system bus." Just to add, if you're not an experienced overclocker, leave the clock settings alone. BTW, I've never heard of a file becoming corrupt on a legit Windows CD...is your copy of Win98 a burned copy? Did you check the CD for damage? If there are scratches on the bottom of the CD, they can usually be polished out. If the top of the CD is damaged, there's nothing you can do to save it.

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"If this computer is a Compaq/HP Dell,, then you CANNOT overclock nothing in the bios." Thats true, there is nothing in the BIOS for overclocking, but there are jumpers to set the CPU multiplier and the system bus. The system bus is already at it's highest point (100 Mhz) but the CPU multiplier is only at 4.5x. I can set it up to 5.0x so the CPU runs at 500 Mhz. (If it works.) -Trent Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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Here's a good reason not to use windows 98lite, a regular Windows 98 install would be faster because my copy of Windows 95 is 95A, which doesn't support FAT32, I would have to underclock the cpu so Windows 95/98lite could run, and Windows 98 can take better advantage of the computer and it's capabilities (It has the "Designed for Windows 98" sticker.) I don't really want to bother with it anyway. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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"Here's a good reason not to use windows 98lite, a regular Windows 98 install would be faster because my copy of Windows 95 is 95A, which doesn't support FAT32" You obviously didn't read the 98lite info I've been providing you. If you use 98lite "Chubby", it's 100% Win98 with a lot of the useless garbage removed. If you use the 98lite "Sleek", you would NOT be installing Win95...FAT32 is NOT an issue. You would be installing Win98, then 98Lite would rip the Win95 shell off the Win95 CD & incorporate it into the Win98 installation. Overclocking your CPU from 450MHz to 500MHz is pointless. That extra 50MHz won't do a darn thing for performance...it will cause the CPU to run hotter & could possibly make the entire system unstable. Try 98lite, if you don't like it, you don't have to wipe the HDD & start from scratch...you can return Win98 to it's overbloated/slower state with just a few clicks of the mouse. This time, try reading the info: http://www.litepc.com/swap.html I won't mention it again.

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"look for the nine digit number on the label on the outside of the case." All of the parts in the computer are original. I didn't find a nine-digit number, but i'll provide the info I did find: A big sticker on the bottom of the shell says "Compaq Series CM0900". Small numberson the bottom of the sticker read "128356-007" although I don't think that means anything. Inside the shell on the floor is "388524-001 ES". On the back of the computer is a small white sticker that says "Tracking code - 64046-0089". Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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Spending any money on that computer is pointless, When you can buy a p4 for under a $100.00 bucks..

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"Spending any money on that computer is pointless, When you can buy a p4 for under a $100.00 bucks.." I agree 100%. I *think* it's just for experimentation, but he doesn't seem willing to be very experimental...lol.

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Lets say I have Windows 95 w/ 98lite installed, and I want to run a program that requires Windows 98 or later. (Not 95) Can Windows 98Lite run it? Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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I don't think you're reading the links. 98lite IS Win98, it's NOT Win95! A few files are borrowed from 95 to optimize 98, but that's it. Otherwise, it's Win98 thru & thru. Here's a quick explanation...start with a HDD formatted as FAT32. Create a directory called 98lite & copy the 98lite files into that directory. Then boot off a Win98 boot floppy & run 98lite from DOS. Select "Clean Install", then select which customization package you want..."Sleek", "Chubby" or "Overweight". Once you make the choice, 98lite will prompt you for the Win98 CD (& Win95 CD for Sleek). The setup files will then be copied to the 98lite folder on the hard drive. Windows is then installed from the 98lite folder on the HDD & the setup files are all there for later use (unless you decide to delete them). During the installation, you'll have the opportunity to pick & choose which Windows components you want (or don't want) installed. The 98lite Windows component list is MUCH longer than the standard Win98 list, so a LOT of additional components can be eliminated, if you so choose. If you don't like the way it works, it's easy to make changes. For example, say you don't like the way "Sleek" runs...you can just fire up 98lite from within Windows (Start > Programs) & select a different customization. If you want "Chubby", simply select it from the menu & 98lite will pull the necessary files from the folder & install them.

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OK, I just sorta skimmed through the website. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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Most of the stuff you quoted in response 22 yields nothing. Are you sure you typed them correctly? The tracking number is probably only used for a short time after the computer was made. "Compaq Series CM0900" Probably refers to the CM0900 chassis (case) series, made by Philips. I'm assuming the computer was made in the US - if it wasn't the part numbers may be different. Although, I tried searching with the country set to the US, UK, Canada, and one of the Europe ones. If you know where it was made, you could try the numbers here - change the country if you need to: http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/sp... Accoring to the number I saw in the pictures you sent me, the Compaq spare part number of your Mitac PS - 127999-001 - reveals it is is used in Presario 5300 series computers amongst others, but not in 5700 series computers - so you probably have a 5300 series one. You said your mboard has a 4.5X multiplier setting for the cpu - so, it's probably running at 450 mhz. If that's the original cpu, according to the possible models I found in response 14, and the parts information for 5330, 5340, 5345, 5360, 5365, you probably either have a 5360 or a 5365, the only ones that came with a 450mhz cpu and your mboard. You already have enough info about the jumpers on the mboard (see response 14). You would only have to know which model you actually have if you still have other original components that came with the system you need to identify, or if you need to get the Compaq part number for if the original Compaq sticker on the part has disappeared. Presario Desktop PC 5360 http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/sp... 117744-004 117744-094 117744-104 117744-314 117744-384 117744-404 117744-034 UK 117744-064 Italy 117744-074 Spain 117744-134 Portugal 117744-174 Arabic 117744-334 Netherlands 117744-354 Finland Presario Desktop PC 5365 - 117744-007 http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/sp... ...... Note that when I searched for info for 5360 on the HP site, the product specs are missing - but they are there for 5340, which uses the same mboard and a 400mhz cpu. I'm assuming the computer was bought in the US - if it wasn't change the country here: http://welcome.hp.com/country/us/en... Click on: Support & Troubleshooting 0r Software and Driver Downloads type: Presario 5300 desktop scroll down to: Compaq Presario 5300 Desktop PC series choose 5340 Desktop PC, or 5330, 5345, 5360, 5365, with NOTHING after the model number (the others are much newer). ....... As far as transferring this mboard to a generic case, you probably don't have enough info. There is nothing about the front panel header pinouts or the game port / usb ports header pinouts in any of the Compaq info, and the Compaq case uses a one piece female connector for the wiring on both those headers. If the wiring to front panel (Compaq calls it the button board) pinouts in the 5114vu manual I sent you are not the same, and if there isn't sufficient labelling near the pins on the mboard, you're on your own - you would have to detrermine where all the wires go by tracing them from the one piece female connector for the wiring on the Compaq case.

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I found some more clues on the Compaq. On the ceiling of the shell I found the following in a circle: P002 May 16, 1999 QC9 I'm assuming that's the date of Manufacturing. A tiny sticker on the bottom of the shell says: CASE KIT,MITAC,T-REX CPQ P/N:116400-001 If it didn't have the Compaq logo on the front, and a Compaq splash screen on boot-up, and I didn't know it came from a Compaq dealer, I would think this was a custom built computer. My father bought this computer, along with a Compaq V570 monitor, a Microsoft PS/2 wheel mouse and an AOpen USB keyboard for $300 altogether at a second hand Compaq dealer, and I think it was a ripoff, considering you can get a brand new computer at Walmart for $200. Before this computer, my father had another Compaq Presario that he bought from the same place, with an old AOC Spectrum 53 monitor (which is still in use today), a Dell QuietKey, which is somewhere in a closet, and a mouse, I think a Microsoft IntelliMouse, which is sitting with the keyboard. That Presario had the exact same specs as this one, except the Quantum BigFoot TS on that one was 12 GB instead of 10, and it was a horizontal form factor. When I, being 9-10 years old and expirimental with computers, accidentally uninstalled Windows 98, my father took it to the guy where my custom-built computer came from, and traded it for my custom built computer. This all happened back in 2004. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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Whoops, it isn't a Microsoft IntelliMouse! All I remember is that it has a purple scroll wheel and the logo on it is a purple i in a circle. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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You already have enough information in what I have already told you. Most brand name system builders do not make most of, if not all, the pieces in their systems - that's nothing new - the parts are supplied to them by other manufacturers, both major and minor. You may only be able to get certain pieces from them, but that doesn't necessarily indicate they made them. That's quite obvious for desktop computers - it's harder to identify who made some parts for laptops. It's kind of the same kind of thing as with car manufacturers - many of the pieces are made by other manufacturers and supplied to them. Others that do the same thing are Dell, Gateway, Packard Bell in Europe, etc. Some make their own cases and other cosmetic stuff. They often assemble the systems themselves, but sometimes the systems are completely assembled by another builder and merely have the brand's specified branding on them . A few make more of their own stuff. Seiemens/Fujitsu (Fujitsi also makes hard drives)in Europe/Japan, some other brands have Siemens/Fujitsu mboards in them, Toshiba (also makes hard drives), Trigem in Korea makes systems for their own markets and also assembles the EMachines systems, and supplies systems to other brand name builders - they used to use their own mboards in their systems and some were supplied to other brand name builders such as HP and Compaq for cheaper models, but now they often use other major maker's mboards. Many, if not all, ECS mboards are actually made by Hsing Tech, who also sell their mboards as PCChips models. Hsing Tech used to supply their mboards to as many as a dozen other mboard vendors to be sold under the vendor's brand and model. Most Hsing Tech mboards have no model number printed on them. This Presario has a mboard that is probably made by Mitac, a Mitac branded power supply, and a Mitac branded case. Going by that one number you found, the case might be a Phillips case supplied to Mitac. The power supply might have been made by another manufacturer for Mitac - that's common with power supplies. They didn't make the hard drive, even if the optical drive has Compaq labelling on it they didn't make it, and they didn't make the floppy drive. Quantum was bought out by, or became?, Maxtor around 2000? or so, and the Quantum brand name was no longer used after that - Maxtor provided support for Quantum drives. Maxtor was bought out by Seagate about 3 years ago - Seagate now supports both Seagate and Maxtor drives - I think you can still buy new Maxtor drives as well as Seagate ones.

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Your right, there. The CD-ROM drive is LG, and the Floppy drive is some Japanese name of which I forget. I think you're right about Quantum being aquired by Maxtor, but I think it was just their hard disk division. I was at Quantum's website the other day, and it seems they just manufacture backup systems, now. I like the BigFoot TS, because it makes a very audiable chattering noise when it's reading / writing data. Lets me know when it's doing something without having to look down at the HD activity light. Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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LG was not making LG brand optical drives at the time this system was sold - there was no LG - so it must have been added by someone else later. They were formerly known as Goldstar - LG is short for Lucky Goldstar - you may come across older Goldstar crt (tube) monitors and optical drives. Older LG brand optical drives were made by LG itself - nerwer ones are made by Hitachi for Goldstar and have a HT at the beginning of the model name. I like both types because they are well balanced and make a minimum of noise at high speeds. I have two of the former CDRom drives - 52X - one has given me no problems since I bought it at the beginning of 2000 and I use it the most - the other I bought later and haven't used as much. I've noticed all their more recent DVD combo burner drives I've installed in other people's computers have HT at the beginning of the model number. They are excellent DVD combo drives except for one thing - I've noticed in reviews of their models on the web they are not as good as some other brands at reading a scratched disk - but if you don't have any such that's not a problem. The most common reason for an optical drive becoming useless and needing to be replaced is the sleeve bearings in the motor wear to the point they produce too much friction and the drive eventually can no longer spin at even 1X speed (the original audio CD speed) or stops spinning altogether. I've never seen or heard of one that has ball bearings. The earliest optical drives cost over $100 and were warrantied for at least two years, but since 8X CDrom drives came out, that has been only 1 year ever since. Sometimes you can open up the drive and apply a tiny bit of oil to the motor bearings and get the drive to work again, along with manually spinning the motor until you can feel there is less friction, but it usually isn't long before it won't spin properly again, and optical drives are so cheap nowadays that isn't even worth spending your time doing. A tip - take any disks out of your CD or DVD drives when you're not using them - the drive's motor will last a lot longer. The computer mboard bios spins the disk whenever you boot and for a short time afterwards, and Windows 9x and up spins it at random times even when you are not accessing the disk, often at a speed less than the max, often without lighting up the led on the front of the drive. "...the Floppy drive is some Japanese name of which I forget." Mitsumi, Matsushita a.k.a. Panasonic, maybe Hitachi, Fujitsu, Toshiba (mostly for laptops), etc. By the way, Fujitsu has a crummy customer support reputation especially for hard drives, and Toshiba has no diagnostic utilities for their hard drives. "I think you're right about Quantum being aquired by Maxtor, but I think it was just their hard disk division..." That's correct. "Lets me know when it's doing something without having to look down at the HD activity light." For quieter drives you can load a utility that displays the hdd activity onscreen. I have an older freeware very tiny one, but it only works in Dos or in MsDos mode in Win 9x. Disk Tray, Res Tray http://www.chrysalis.co.za/download... Win XP, NT, 2000, 2003 Server Edition only. O&O Drive LED - more sophisticated - shows activity for all your drives. Can also monitor the SMART status of your drives. There are freeware and paid versions. XP/2000/etc. e.g. http://www.1000files.com/cgi-bin/sw...

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Yikes! When I took the CPU fan off the (Compaq) CPU/Heatsink to clean the dust off it, I booted it to make sure everything still worked after having all of the parts off. I was only going to run it until Windows started then shut it off, since there was no fan. I accidentally left the computer running for 10 minutes! When I shut it off, the heatsink was almost too hot to touch! I opened the ZIF socket to take it out to put the fan back on. When I picked the CPU/Heatsink up, the heatsink fell off! The heat melted the heatsink compound! Umm, although the CPU is fine, and the clips keep the Heatsink attached to the socket, I would like to apply a new layer of compound. I'm amazed how much a 1.5" fan can do! When the fan was back on, I ran the computer for the same amount of time, and the heatsink was cooler than room temperature. How much is a "thing" of heasink compound? -Trent Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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If the heatsink hadn't been on the cpu you would probably have fried the cpu in that amount of time! Newer cpus would have fried in that amount of time even with the heatsink still installed! You can use a thermal pad, or thermal grease, or thermal paste, but I would not use the latter. A thermal pad is a thin sheet of compound with sharply defined edges and of a uniform thickness that is stuck onto the heatsink like a sticker or label. New cpu heatsink / cpu fan combos often come with that already installed on the bottom of the heatsink, and you simply remove a plastic sheet that protects it from becoming contaminated just before you install the heatsink on the cpu. However, thermal pads aren't as easy to find when you need to replace them as thermal grease or thermal paste are. Thermal grease is often mostly if not all silicon grease, usually translucent whitish - I recommend that because I have had no problems with it ever hardening. You can re-use it as many times as you like, as long as it is clean. Thermal paste is similar to thermal grease but it has other stuff added to it, and it is not translucent whitish - you can't kinda see through it when it is in a thicker layer. The reason I don't recommend it is I've seen that it often hardens over time and in that case glues the cpu to the heatsink, making it very hard to remove from the heatsink, and often you can't get at the lever to release it from the ZIF cpu socket if you can't get the thermal paste unstuck because the heatsink is in the way, and the only way you can remove the heatsink and cpu combo is to pull it straight up off the cpu socket, risking damaging the pins on the cpu and the ZIF socket. You probably have a thermal pad or thermal grease by the sounds of it. If it's a thermal pad, you will see the remains of definite square or rectangle on the bottom of the heatsink / top of the cpu. If you see that you must scrape off the remanants with something such as a single edge razor blade or the blade taked out of a utility knife, and use a new thermal pad if you can find one, or thermal grease. If it has thermal grease or thermal paste on it, there are no sharply defined edges to it on the bottom of heatsink / top of the cpu. If that is clean, you can simply re-use it. If it isn't, you need to wipe it off and apply some clean stuff. Again, I DO NOT recommend you use thermal paste. You can commonly get capsules or small tubes of thermal grease where you can buy a lot of computer pieces, such as smaller places that build custom computer systems and repair and service computers. I have found thermal pads are not as easy to find, and you must get one of the same size as was used on your heatsink - it comes with plastic sheets on it you peel off in order to apply it. You apply only enough thermal grease to coat the top of the cpu with a thin continuous layer, such that the max area of the cpu has a layer between it and the heatsink bottom. In the case of your K6-2 cpu, and other older cpus, that's the whole top of the flat cpu package, metal in your case, but in the case of newer cpus, that's only the cpu core that sticks up a bit in the center of the cpu package. ..... When you need to remove a heatsink - it is a good idea to let the cpu get to at least it's stable temp, e.g. let the computer run for at least 5 minutes after the computer has cooled off - to warm up whatever is between the heatsink and the cpu - then you release the clamp(s) holding the heatsink to the cpu socket, and twist the heat sink back and forth a bit, pressing down at the same time, to try to break the bond of the compound or thermal pad to the cpu. In the case of your mboard's Socket 7 socket, you can twist the heatsink quite a bit - in the case of newer cpus you may only be able to twist it a tiny bit - only then do you try lifting the heatsink off the cpu. Try lifting it off on a side, still pressing down on the heatsink and the cpu on the other side. - if the heatsink will not come off or twist at all, try turning on the computer longer till the cpu gets warmer and try again. - if that doesn't help, if you don't really need to remove the heatsink from cpu, then don't! - if you must remove the heatsink from the cpu, usually you can't release the lever that locks the cpu in the ZIF socket when the heatsink is in the way, so you have no choice except to pull straight up on the heatsink, and risking damaging or pulling off the pins on the cpu and damaging the ZIF socket. If it's any consulation, my doing that with a couple of heatsinks that were stuck fast did no harm to either the cpu pins or the ZIF socket. But then you still have to get the heatsink off the cpu if you want to re-use the cpu, and I was not successful in doing that, even when I tried jamming a single edge razor blade between, and I left them stuck together.

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This is good info. Thanks! Windows XP Media Center Edition 2002 AMD Sempron 2500+ @ 1.74 Ghz 512 MB RAM

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