|Try your monitor with another computer if you can, make sure the pins in the end connector of the video cable for it are not bent, but there's probably nothing wrong with that.|
If the video is corrupted while booting BEFORE the operating system loads, that cannot be caused by any problem with the data on the hard drive - that's a hardware problem, but it may or may not be caused by the removable video card itself or it's connection to it's slot - it can also be caused by a ram problem (errors reading the ram), or by a power supply that is in the process of failing.
Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD !
I'm assuming this is a desktop computer..
I'm assuming the video adapter you have the monitor plugged into is on a card you have installed in a mboard slot.
If you can try the video card in another computer, try that.
If you get the video corruption from the card on the other computer while booting BEFORE the operating system loads, the video chipset on it is probably definately damaged.
If your mboard also has onboard video,
- remove the power cord to your case, or otherwise switch off the AC power to the computer.
- remove the video card in the slot.
Restore AC power.
- connect your monitor to the video port for the onboard video, boot the computer, and see if that video is okay.
If your mboard does NOT also have onboard video, or if it does and the video is also corrupted while booting with that...
- make sure the the video card in a slot is all the way down in the slot. You could also try removing it, wipe off the contacts on it's bottom edge, installing it again. Some video slots have a clip or a sliding piece that holds down the inner end of the video card in the slot.
Make sure any other cards in slots are all the way down in their slots. All cards should be secured to the case on the bracket end, by a screw or by some other method. Some video slots also have a clip or a sliding piece that holds down the inner end of the video card in the slot.
- See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
For a laptop, or netbook, you must remove both its main battery and AC adapter before you do that.
For a brand name computer, see the Owner's or User's manual if you need to - how to remove or replace the ram is usually in that - it may already be in your installed programs. If you can't get into Windows, it may be on a disk that came with the computer, or you can go online and look at it or download it - it's in the downloads for your specific model.
For a generic desktop computer, see the mboard manual if you need to - how to remove or replace the ram is usually in that.
Restore AC power and try the computer.
If the video is still corrupted while booting....
- if you mboard also has onboard video, try removing the video card and connecting your monitor to the onboard video, if you haven't already tried that.
- Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
E.g. if you can make out that well enough with your corrupted video, make sure the voltages in the bios are within 10%.
See response 4 in this:
It can be very hard to tell if the problem is caused by a defective power supply. If you can try a known good power supply from a working system that has enough capacity, try that.
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.
Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
There can also be failing or failed capacitors inside your power supply.
If your system originally was using onboard video and you added the video card in a slot, or if it came with a video card in a slot but you upgraded it, a common thing we've been hearing of lately is the system is malfunctioning because the power supply does not have enough capacity to handle the particular video chipset being on the card in the slot.
Or in any case, if you install a different video card...
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
If your PS is failing, and/or if need to get a PS with more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this: