|Inverter / Home UPS ( Eco Model ) |
PICI6F676 based design
Jumper Selections for :- Inv / UPS Mode, Normal /High charging, Batt. Voltage boost.
Does yours have those options ?
Does your Uncle's inverter have similar options ?
"with Exide 100ah battery"
sounds like you're using a car (vehicle) battery, which has a much higher ah rating than a typical pre-packaged UPS meant for a computer system has.
In any case, it would take a lot longer to re-charge a battery with that capacity to it's full capacity after it has been deeply discharged than it would for a battery found in a typical pre-packaged UPS meant for a computer system, and it's going to require current from whatever is charging it during that time.
Typical vehicle batteries aren't designed to stand up to being deeply discharged. If you are going to use a high capacity battery, you should use one that IS designed to stand up to being deeply discharged without being damaged, e.g. one meant for use with an electric boat motor, or meant for use as a second battery for a recreational vehicle.
"I had doubt on the battery"
How old is it ?
Batteries can develop internal shorts, caused by conductive crap that has accumulated under the plates inside the battery that is touching the bottom of the plates (if you move the battery or tilt it from horizontal, or if the vehicle it's in physically jars the battery while moving, that crap may not cause proplems sometimes, cause problems other times), or by physical damage inside the battery otherwise, e.g. cracking of the plates, and that's more likely the older the battery is, the more physical jarring it's been exposed to.
Symptoms I've seen of an internally shorted vehicle battery.
When you use the battery with a vehicle, the greatest amount of current is drawn from the battery while you are starting the vehicle.
One battery produced electrical arcing sounds at the battery that came from within the battery while that large amount of current was being drawn from it, but made no sounds after the vehicle was running.
The battery may get HOT rather than just warm when it is being charged.
The (lead acid) battery may not read 12.6 volts after it has been charged and has sat for a while with no load on it - it has a lower voltage.
Or - the battery may NOT read 12.6 volts immeditely after or a a short time after shutting off the engine - it has a lower voltage.
When there's a situation that has discharged the battery, the voltage reading of the battery may drop a lot faster than it does for a good battery. E.g. someone left a car door open overnight, which resulted in the interior light staying on all that time. The voltage was 10.x volts the next morning, rather than higher than that.
My most recent experioence -
When the vehicle is running, the voltage reading is a lot lower than it should be, when there's nothing wrong with the charging system, in comparison to the same vehicle with a battery that has nothing wrong with it.
When I replaced the ~ 6 year old battery with a new one, the voltage reading while the same vehicle was running was up to 2 volts higher right after having started the vehicle, and 1 volt or more higher after that.
The car had been misbehaving because the voltage while the car was running was lower than the minimum required for the car's main control circuit board at the circuit board.