Test power supply? I have an eMachine that won't startup at all. Was working before move. Is the power supply the first thing to check? The machine has a 20 pin connector and I have a multimeter. Don't know how to check to see if that's the problem.

If your familiar with computers make sure everything is plugged in and seated properly. Something could have loosened if the computer was bounced around or jarred several times.

CLICK HERE It can all get a bit fiddly though because the power supply can rely on a signal back from the motherboard. When my PS looked like it had failed (fan not running) it turned out to be the motherboard. You might prove something by unplugging everything off the motherboard (if the fan isn't running). If the fan starts you've found the culprit. Be careful of little nests of plugs which look like one block. You need to be sure where each plug goes. The easiest way is to take the PS to your local shop and they will just try it out in working machine. DerekW

You all getting tierd of my answers? Pull the 20 pin connector and jumper the green to grey with a paper clip to activate it without the front switch. Plug it in and turn the rear switch on. On the power supply wires you should have 12 volts DC between all yellow+ wires to black- ground, 5+ volts DC between red and black. 3.5 on a few on the 20 pin also. And the poormans load test method of hooking up 2 then 3 then 4, 12volt automotive headlights to the yellow and black power leads that feed the drives. They average a little over 100watts each yet most good 250 watts PSUs can run 4 halogens. This will only determine the potential max wattage output. If it can sustain 4 indefinantly then it's main function is good yet there are step down resistors that may fail to conduct at high temps. There's only a couple wires at the PSU entrance that are significant voltage to shock you. The rest of the components should not feel hot to touch except the choke coil if something is malfuntioning. Three or four large transistors mounted to two large heat sinks should be disipating heat enough to not feel too hot. Look for any darkened area on the circuit boards (one in the PSU and MOBO) if there is you got a problem, check for a loose solder job near by. If the copper wire wrapped around carbon ring (choke coil)is black instead of bright like a new penny add a small fan from a CPU aiming at it. I quit this could go on and on there's many ways to save a circuit board, ie replacing foil runners with phone wire from the lands, etc. Crunch

Hmmmm, I don't know anyone that has 4 12V headlights laying around for testing....but I guess it sounds like something that might work Hopefully my advice will help you...Please post back with your results....thanks

Well, I have news. The average auto headlamp is nowhere near 100watts draw. Half that is more like it. I used to use AIRCRAFT LANDING LIGHTs in my 4 lamp auto systems just replace the high beam units with part no. 4537 http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11589-147123-6-100-watt-spotlight-aircraft-landing-light-4537.aspx These things were great. Deer on side of road? No problem, eyes light up like big red reflectors. Nobody wants to dim their lamps? Let two people ahead of you blink, that is the two chances. Then comes I, a little blink o' the 'ol landig lights, you just won't beLIEVE how quick someone can find the dimmer switch.

The advice above was good advice. I have found most times.....if you jump the power switch...(use a paper clip)..The Green wire and the Black one next to it.....if the fans on your power supply don’t turn on.....most likely your power supply is toast. If the fans do turn on then you can check the output on the connections.....there are some good power supply testers out there that will give you a pretty good idea about the condition of your unit.....you just plug them in and test each connection. Good Luck