|"Started with a blue screen that said system halted (hardware problem). |
Was there an error message as well?
Did it name a file? Sometimes there's a details or other link you have to click on to see that.
If so did you make note of that?
E.g. STOP: 0X000000x TEXT_WITH_UNDERLINES_BETWEEN_WORDS
"Windows\system32\config\SYSTEM corrupt of missing."
That CAN be an indication of a Windows software problem you need to fix - I can tell you how to do that but you need an XP CD or the equivalent to do that - BUT that and similar is sometimes a false message when you have a software or a hardware problem.
If you re-seat and test the ram (see below) and that is fine, and if any of the bootable CDs you have can be booted (see below if that doesn't work), then you probably DO have that Windows software problem you need to fix, but you need an XP CD or the equivalent.
If your Restore disk is a slightly modified OEM XP CD, it's not a DVD, and it has an \i386 folder and several other standard folders seen on regular OEM XP CDs.
If it's a DVD, it may not have \i386 on it.
If your Restore disk is a slightly modified OEM XP CD, it should boot into Windows Setup on any properly working computer , if the bios boot order settings are correct.
"I try using Safe mode. It tries to load something then stops after tring to load drivers. Last driver to load or try to load is SYS32\Drivers\Mup.sys"
When you boot into Safe made, it lists a whole bunch of lines about things that are loading, then the screen stays that way for a while, then the logon screen pops up - Administrator and whatever other user(s).
Mups.sys is often at the bottom of the list.
It being listed last doesn't necessarily indicate that's the file that is causing the problem, and that probably has nothing to do with your problem.
"so I installed new HD, ran the restore disk with the same results."
You would NOT get this error if the new hard drive was connected and no other hard drive was connected if the new drive had no data on it
"Windows\system32\config\SYSTEM corrupt of missing"
because it's generated by XP itself. You probably can't get it in Windows Setup either, unless, possibly, you have a ram or data cable problem.
You COULD get that error if you had two hard drives connected and you weren't booting the new drive in the mboard bios settings
You could get other errors because of a hardware problem, generated by the mboard or the software on the optical disk.
If the new hard drive was the only hard drive and had no data on it, then whatever message you got was because of a hardware problem.
Have you installed any card or hardware device recently or since the computer last worked correctly?
Have you changed which ram you have installed in the mboard since the system last worked correctly?
If you HAVE NOT, or in any case.....
A common thing that can happen with ram, even ram that worked fine previously, is the ram has, or has developed, a poor connection in it's slot(s).
This usually happens a long time after the ram was installed, but it can happen with new ram, or after moving the computer case from one place to another, and I've had even new modules that needed to have their contacts cleaned.
See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
If you HAVE changed which ram you have installed in the mboard since the system last worked correctly.....
Ram that works in another mboard , or any ram you buy or have lying around, may not work properly, or sometimes, not at all - even if it physically fits and is the right overall type (e.g. SDram, DDR, DDR2, etc.; PCxxxx, xxx mhz) for your mboard. In the worst cases of incompatibilty your mboard WILL NOT BOOT all the way with it installed, and the mboard may not even beep - the ram has to be compatible with the mboard's main chipset, or in the case of recent mboards, compatible with the memory controller built into the cpu.
The same applies for testing your ram in another mboard - the ram must be compatible with the other mboard - if it isn't, any results of testing the ram on the other mboard cannot be relied upon to be valid.
If you still have the ram that was installed when the system worked fine, try installing just that ram, if you know which ram it is.
See response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
Correction to that:
Once you know which module ID strings work in your mboard, you can get them from anywhere you like that has ram with those ID strings.
If you have brand name ram, it is usually easy to look up whether it's ID string is in a list of compatible modules found by using your mboard or brand name system model number.
If the ram is generic, that may be difficult or impossible.
Contrary to popular belief, it is extremely rare for ram that was working fine previously to go BAD, unless you have damaged it by something you did when installing or removing it, or unless it was damaged by some event such as a power failure or a power supply failing. Almost always, when you have a ram problem, it's either because the ram has a poor connection, or you have installed ram that is not compatible with your mboard's main chipset, or it's CPU's memory controller if that applies.
If you do a ram test, do that AFTER having tried cleaning the contacts and making sure the ram is seated properly - otherwise any errors found may be FALSE.
If the ram is incompatible with the chipset, or on more recent computers, incompatible with the memory controller built into the cpu, it will likely FAIL a ram test - that is NOT a true indication of the ram being faulty - there is probably nothing wrong with it, and it will pass the test if installed in a mboard it is compatible with.
If a ram test DOES find errors, if you have more than one module installed, try the test with one module at a time - sometimes they won't work properly when more than one is installed, but it will pass when by itself.
If you want to try a memory diagnostic utility that takes a lot less time to run a full pass than memtest86 does, this one is pretty good - Microsoft's
Windows Memory Diagnostic:
It can be toggled (press T) to do a standard or a more comprehensive set of tests - use the default 6 test one first - if it passes one pass of that, use the latter one. A few of the tests in the latter set are intentionally slower.
If you don't have a floppy drive, see the Quick Start Information at that Microsoft link for how to make a bootable CD of the Windows Memory Diagnostic (you need Windiag.iso - you don't necessarily need to use the program they mention to add it to the CD).
"When I boot from the restore disk I try hitting "r" thinking I might get a repair screen but I don't. This is why I asked if I needed an XP install disk. Also I am not sure if my version of the restore disk has sp2 on it. "
emachines may have instructions on their site about how to use it.
Please quote the labelling on the "Restore" disk.
If it's a slightly modified OEM XP CD, it has an \i386 folder and several other standard folders seen on regular OEM XP CDs.
If it's a DVD, it may not have \i386 on it.
Is it possible you got more than one disk with the system and have just lost track of where other disks are at?
E.g. A friend's HP laptop (about 4 years old) came with 3 -two CDs, one is a slightly modified XP Home CD, you boot with that first when you do a Restore, and a DVD that has drivers and HP supplied extra programs.
Whether it is as I have seen - a slightly modified OEM XP CD - or the only Restore disk of another type, or the proper first disk in a Restore disk set, if the settings in the bios for the boot order are correct, it should boot on it's own without you having to type anything.
If the settings in the bios for the boot order are correct, early in the booting of the computer, if the disk is bootable, you should either see "Press any key to boot from the CD" or similar - if you see that press the key - OR the disk may automatically boot, when the hard drive has no data on it or otherwise.
If neither happens
- That not working can be caused by a ram problem, or a problem with the data cable connection to the drive.
You must be having no problems with your ram, or your data cable connection to the drive. .
- are you SURE the disk is bootable? Try it in another computer.
- if it's a DVD, make sure it's in a drive that can read DVDs
- make sure the disk is clean
- if you have only one CD or DVD drive, try using a laser lens cleaning CD in the drive
- if you have more than one CD or DVD drive, some bioses will only boot a bootable disk from one optical drive.
Try the disk in another drive, or go into the bios and find the list of optical drives and make the one you want to boot from the first one, save settings
- the boot order in the bios Setup settings may not be correct. A CD or optical drive should be listed before all harddrives, or SCSI if you are booting from a drive connected to a drive controller in a slot. It dies not have to be listed first - if you hhave afloppy drive and use it, that should be before it.
You should have tested your original hard drive before you bought a new one.
Your ram and data cable connection to the drive must not be having a problem when you do that, but your operating system does not have to be working in order to do that.
If you not fiddled with the data cable connection it's likely there's nothing wrong with that, but if you HAVE....
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
Check your hard drive with the manufacturer's diagnostics.
See the latter part of response 1 in this:
(thanks to Dan Penny for this link:)
Hard Drive Diagnostics Tools and Utilities
If you don't have a floppy drive, you can get a CD image diagnostic utility from most hard drive manufacturer's web sites, but obviously you would need to make a burned CD, preferably a CD-R for best compatibilty, on another computer if you need to.
If the hard drive itself tests okay, any data problems found can be fixed, one way or another.