|Since you've replaced the PS....|
- the most likely thing that could cause you boot problem is a poor connection of something connected to the mboard.
Make sure all connectors are all the way into their pins or into their sockets.
Make sure all ram modules and cards are all the way down in their slots.
You could try wiping off the contacts on the ram modules if you haven't already done so.
If you've checked out that those things...
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.
Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
Blurry = the only thing that can be on a CRT display is it's out of focus.
When you have a CRT monitor that's been used a lot, the display can get out of focus over time. I've never seen any CRT monitor that has a way of adjusting the focus via a OSD (On Screen Display) setting, or via a manual control on the front, or via a manual control at the back of the monitor that you can access from outside of the case like old TVs sometimes had.
If the display does NOT still have reasonable brightness - e.g. you can't adjust it bright enough for darker screens in a game or other video - discard the monitor - it's NOT worth fiddling with !!
If the display still has reasonable brightness, then most monitors have a manual focus control inside the case at the back that adjusts the focus.
- it can be a real puzzle to figure out how to get the back of the case off - after you have removed the screws, it's usually still firmly attached, via male and female tabs on either side, inside where you can't see them.
WARNING ! There is HIGH VOLTAGE inside the case ! It is NOT recommended that anyone except a technician who knows what he's doing ever open up a monitor's case to do the following !
THE FOLLOWING INFO IS SUPPLIED AT YOUR OWN RISK !
- there may be TWO relatively large manual knobs for controls at the back near the flyback transformer - if so, one is for brightness, the other one is for focus. Setting the one for brightness too high can result in the tube's filaments burning out right then, or later, prematurely.
- you need to adjust the focus, or the brightness, when the monitor is ON and is displaying video - the best way is you move the control while looking at the display via a large enough mirror (at least half the size of the monitor's screen) if you're by yourself. You only move the control for focus, or brightness, a bit at a time.
- YOU NEED A SPECIAL INSULATED TOOL to turn the manual focus control, because it's near the high voltage flyback transformer for the tube, and if you were to move the control knob with your fingers, or get too close to the flyback transformer or it's cable to the outside of the tube, you are LIKELY to get a HIGH VOLTAGE JOLT ! The same special insulated tools that can be used with a CRT TV can be used with a CRT monitor - a set of them is more likely to have one that will physically work. E.g Radio Shack or some electronic parts places have the proper tools.
- the outside surface and inside surface of the outside of the tube is a giant sized capacitor ! It is STILL CHARGED UP for at least hours after the monitor has last been powered, if not longer ! DO NOT place your hands or any part of you body or any un-insulated tool you have in you hand anywhere near the large cable from the flyback transformer where it connects to the tube. DO NOT touch the rubber insulated part where the cable attaches to the tube!
- that cable and the flyback transformer and other things often have dust or lint stuck to them that lessens the cable's insulation's effectiveness . DO NOT attempt to clean that off manually ! Blowing that off with compressed air or canned air or gas meant for that purpose without getting too close with something metal is okay.
The high voltage flyback transformer and it's circuitry was originally deliberately designed to NOT be capable of producing enough current to kill a person when TVs first came out, and that probably applies to all CRT TVs made since, but I do NOT know if that applies to CRT monitors too - it probably does, but I have not been able to confirm that.
It's more likely to cause you harm from what your body does when you DO get a high voltage jolt - rapid involuntary movement of your hand or arm or both or your body otherwise.
Have you ever gotten a high voltage jolt from a spark plug wire on a vehicle? That's like the jolt you would get from the high voltage inside the monitor.
That's also been been deliberately designed for a vehicle, or any ignition system for a motor, to NOT be capable of producing enough current to kill a person.