|This isn't really a question, but rather a solution to a problem A LOT of people have here, but is not answered anywhere using Google after very intensive searches, and is not answered here either.|
First, details on the problem:
"I have seen similar issues to this on this and other pages, but have been unable to find a solution. Hopefully somebody can help.
I have an (ANY BRAND) laptop.
Seemingly for no reason, a black bar about 2 inches thick appeared on the right side of my screen, there is also a bar along the bottom, but it is blue and blurs the cursor if I put it there.
The black bar is effectively the end of my screen, I can not move my cursor there, and the sceen is shrunk as though I am using a square CRT (mine is widescreen). I can't just drag the edge of my screen to expand it.
I've tried both removing my video driver and installing the original one, and updating to the newest Intel driver. I can't find any conflicting drivers.
Every once and a while, the computer boots using the full screen, but when I restart the computer it goes back to the square screen.
There are no monitor sizing controls, as it is a laptop.
The POST/BIOS screen, or rather the brand logo that appears before Windows boots also suffers from this.
If the laptop is attached to an external display/monitor, the problem is not present there.
The shrinking makes the black bar solid and not accessible to the mouse cursor, and does not simply "cover" that part, which may rule out the screen itself or its inverter or backlight, or its connector to the motherboard to be the problem.
I was given a laptop with this exact same problem for free since my friend thought it wasn't worth paying to repair a 3 year old laptop, and was dead for almost a year (I think they manufactured these in 2008, but HP has almost no specs or info about them, specially ours; DV5T-1100)
I have the solution to this problem, and is a solution not found almost anywhere using Google, and HP support doesn't want to tell you, simply don't know, or would make them look bad.
I was able to fix it myself by using a rework station (basically a dedicated hot air gun) that I used to "reflow" the graphics chipset's connection to the board (keep reading, because this method may vary on result details).
This simply means that I opened the laptop, removed the copper heatsink connected to the fan to expose both the micro-processor, and the faulty graphics chipset, and started cutting soda cans, or thick tin foil to cover the areas AROUND the graphics chipset, and leave the graphics chipset exposed so that the really hot air would concentrate only on TOP of the graphics chipset.
Then, I put the device on 220 degress, with the tip of the gun 2 inches over the chipset, and circled the gun around heating that sucker for 5 minutes, then I did a 3 minute rest to cool off, and a final 5 minutes reheat again. Luckily enough it WORKED!, and it has been working for almost 10 months with heavy use.
HOWEVER... doing a "reflow" like this on a micro component isn't reallt a proper fix. Sure you may get lucky, and I read of instances where the fix lasted for years, but also just months.
This is because the problem is the old solder that connects each "ball" point under the chip to the motherboard may have a micro ultra tiny imperfections and misconnections on a few or many of the connected points cause by a long period of overheat of the chip due to both, a very bad heatsink, and heatflow of heat inside the laptop, and also (and usually) really bad maintenance on the user's part by having a really dirty and dusty vents, overuse, and blocking the ventilation exhaust of the laptop itself over time.
A proper fix of this chip issue is another process called "reballing", where they actually properly overheat that particular chipset so much using IR heat, and an expensive machine, to "loosen" the solder of all connections and remove the chip itself to both, clean the old solder on the chip, and the old solder left on the motherboard, and actually REPLACE all solder with new lead solder.
However, this process has to be very precise (hence the machine), and it maybe costly, and there's also the fact that MANY scammers out there either never really do a true reballing, ans just do a reflow to scam you, or don't have the experience to do a proper reball of the chip.
So whose at fault here? Uneducated users that neglect learning how to properly maintain a laptop off its main enemies (dust and heat) no matter how good the hardware heatsinks may be, or is it poor hardware design by the manufacturer, where other brands or even other families of series off the same brand have actually better noticeable hardware design than these DV series that are so notorious to overheat easier than others out there?
Well, I don't know, but I do know that you should be VERY careful having these laptops repaired and be scammed, because hey! Even so called "refurbished" or even so called "brand new" entire motherboard out there on Ebay are just bad reflow jobs with little to no warranty on them on purpose, to only last a few months on purpose. So, watch out, and THINK! before spending money on a beat up poor donkey.