So let me make sure that I got this clear. Adding extra memory(pc 3200-512 recomended 2700)to the pc even if its the wrong type will not fry the motherboard. And I may have a problem with the memory chip because I did not ground myself before instzlling the chip. I'm also getting a banck screen, however, there is no beein sound, just the fan running. P.S. When I first placed the new memory into the P.C. it started to smell funny (NO SMKOIKING) and I turned ot off

Tyrek Young

One thing that you MUST do that you didn't mention is to remove the power cord from the mains. ATX power supplies are always powering parts of the system. If you inserted RAM modules while the board was powered you may hve damaged something.

Remove the new RAM and the old RAM. Compare the two modules to see if they match up for the length and contacts.

Re-insert the old RAM and try booting again.

"When I first placed the new memory into the P.C. it started to smell funny (NO SMKOIKING) and I turned ot off "

Installing incompatible ram probably won't hurt the computer, but installing any ram backwards will!

That sounds like you installed at least one module backwards! You MUST line up the notches on the contact edge with the bumps in the bottom of the slot, and the ram must be all the way down in the slot! It's possible to install ram backwards if you don't pay attention to that and both latches at the ends of the slots are not against the module! If the ram is backwards when you start the computer, you may or may not notice a tiny puff of smoke, but you will definately notice a burnt wiring kind of smell!
A less likely possibilty is the ram is in the right direction but is the wrong type for the slot despite the fact it is the right length, and requires a different, lower voltage. The notches on the contact edge of the module are different for different voltage requirements - they must line up with the bumps on the bottoms of the slots - if they don't the result is the same - the module is fried the first time you attempt to boot the computer. I don't know whether the ram slot would be damaged too in that case.

Examine your ram slots with good lighting and possibly a magnifying glass - there should be no black carbon deposits or signs of damaged or missing contacts or melted plastic. If there is that, the module that was installed in that slot was installed backwards and is fried and has obviously missing or damaged contacts, and the ram slot that the backwards ram is in is fried and cannot be used anymore. You MIGHT be able to get the mboard to boot again if you clean out all of the carbon, and any melted plastic or damaged contacts that bridge contacts in the damaged slot, and use compatible ram in the other slot(s).

Did you check to see whether these ram modules are listed as being compatible with your mboard model?
Not all ram that you think should work in your mboard will work - it has to be compatible with the mboard, particularly it's chipset! If the ram isn't compatible, in the worst cases the mboard will not boot at all and may not even beep, but it's quite possible to have other problems.
You can check which ram will work in your mboard for sure - is compatible with it - on ram manufacturer's or major ram distributor's web sites by using your mboard make and model or your name brand system make and model - if the ID string of module you were thinking of using or buying is not on that list, there's no way of telling whether it is compatible with your mboard, and whether it will work in your mboard is a crap shoot.

Actually I did remove the plugs before I tried installing the new memory module. I've tried rebooting over, and over and over with no success. I'm ready and prepared to buy a new motherboard and memory module if necessary. My question is what type of mother board and after installing will my system work?

Tyrek Young

Actually, Crucial recommends either PC2700 or PC3200:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listpa...

Your system has 2 DIMM slots with a max of 1GB per slot, but it also states "(2 banks of 1)". You *may* have exceeded the banks with the 2nd stick.

Have you tried it by itself? If it works alone, but not when paired up with the old stick, my guess would be the bank issue. Are they both double-sided?

Have you tried restoring the setup to EXACTLY how it was prior to installing the new RAM?

You have a HP computer. Changing the MBoard to a generic one may stop the OS from booting. The safe course of action would be to acquire a new MBoard from HP.

Wheather or not buying a MBoard and RAM for this computer would be cost effective would be your call.

I tried reinstalling the setup to exactly how it was before with no luck. I tried buying a new mmotherboard from HP but they are impossible and only interesting in me either buying a new system or spending 400 plus to renew my warranty to fix the PC. Although I am ready to buy new motherboard and memoery if necessary I am apprehensive because I am not sure if my OS will boot.I have a guy who is a tech who is willing to do any installation I need, however, he is too busy to do any diagnostic at this time. The motherboard that I have is a MIS name: MS-6577 M-ATX Rev. 3.1 (Giovani), Rev. 4.0 (Giovani2)Compaq name: Giovani-GL6, Giovani2-GL6 Socket 478 for Intel P4 Williamette and Northwood processors 1.4GHZ to 2.8GHz or higher FSB 400/533 Multiplexed AGP interface
Integrated 3D/2D graphic core Supports DDR 333/266/200 memory High speed USB 2.0 controller, 480Mb/sec PCI Master 2.2
I/O APIC AC'97 2.2 interface Three UHCI host controllers One EHCI host controller Two 184-pin DDR DIMM Maximum memory size is up to 2GB, 1GB per slot. HP recommends a maximum memory of 1GB, 512MB per slot. Supports PC2100 0r PC2700 unbuffered non-ECC

Tyrek Young

Simply adding a stick of RAM doesn't fry a board...what facts are you leaving out of this story?

Nothing
When I recieved the memory I took it out of the packaging and asked my friend what I needed to do.

The first thing that I did was make sure that I disconnected all the components and plugs.

I carefully layed out al the things that I wouid need and made sure that I had enough space to operate.

I remebered to gorund myself before opening the tower.

I carefully picked up the new memory module and line it up with the empty slot that it was designated for extera memory.

I gently put it in until I heard the tabs click into place ( I smiled with delight).

I then closed the tower and put all the components back together.

When I tried to boot the pc the monitor displayed a warning and that the monotr was going into power saver mode. I could hear the fan running in the pc but and began smelling a funny burnt smell. I immediately powered down the pc.

I repeated all the steps and making sure that I was grounded before taking out the new memory module.

I closed up the the tower and then tried to reboot the pc and it did not work.

I then called tech support for HP and they had me do several test and it still did not work. They instructed me to take the memory out the original memory mdule and reseat it and try it again to no avail. In your expert opinion, what do you recommmend I do?

Tyrek Young

I also was able to send the memory modoule back to the manufacturer from where I bought it from with out any problem, so I doubt if any damage was done to the new memory module.

Tyrek Young

In your expert opinion what do you reccoomend I do?

Tyrek Young

"The first thing that I did was make sure that I disconnected all the components and plugs"

What components did you disconnect? Usually all you need to do is unplug the power cord, open the case & install the RAM. Are you taking about external components such as keyboard, mouse, printer, etc? or internal components?

And why did you send the RAM back so quickly?

I disconnected the powercord and all the externnl components (mouse...)and i sent the memory module back after two weeks of repeated failure at boooting. I didn't want to get stuck with a $80 memory module that I did not need or was not working. Also the module that I sent back was PC3200 and the system required PC2700

Tyrek Young

Are you in the US? Why the heck would you pay $80 for a 512MB stick of PC3200? They sell for 1/2 that much. Office Depot just had Kingston on sale for $20.

And if you checked the link from Crucial.com, your board can use either PC2700 or PC3200.

Are you sure you have the keyboard & mouse plugged in correctly?

"I also was able to send the memory modoule back to the manufacturer from where I bought it from with out any problem, so I doubt if any damage was done to the new memory module."

That doesn't necessarily mean the ram is not damaged. If you haven't gotten your money back yet, it often takes them a while to test the ram after they receive it. If you paid by credit card, even if they have already re-funded what you paid, if the ram is found to be obviously damaged by something you did, they will charge you for the ram, and maybe shipping one way.

The PC3200 ram spec is backward compatible with the PC2700 spec - that in itself is not a problem - and apparently your mboard can use PC3200 ram in any case - but the ram you bought may have been incompatible because it didn't meet some other requirement.

Examine your ram slots - see Response 2.
If you see no damage other things can cause a bad smell and no boot, and the smell and the no boot might have been a coincidence that had nothing to do with you installing the ram and would have happened anyway.
- the most common is a failing or dead power supply.
Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms. They can certainly generate bad smells.
Check your PS.
See response 4 in this:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
- many older MSI mboards are known to have the bad capacitor problem, caused by them unknowingly buying and using capacitors that have the wrong formulation inside them. They work fine for years, then leak and/or fail, and eventually the mboard stops working. Look at the capacitors on the mboard - larger cylinder shaped components - for bulged or opened up tops, yellow or brown fluid on them or near them, or dried deposits on them or near them of the same colors, or empty cylinders, or missing capacitors, only the two leads sticking out of the mboard.

"I disconnected the powercord and all the externnl components (mouse...)..."

Depending on settings in your bios Setup, your mboard may halt booting if no keyboard is detected.

Question: Why should you remove the powercord? As long as the machine is off, that is all that is important. By keeping it plugged in, you're keeping it grounded, as long you touch a metallic part of the case, you are ground as well. I see no problems keeping the PC plugged in other than you risk accidentally turn it on while working on it. Then that could be bad.

It is okay to keep it plugged to keep it grounded, but there should be no AC power to the mboard's power supply when you make any changes to connections or change or install/remove any components inside the case . You can ground the case other ways too even if the power supply is not plugged in. ATX mboards are always powered in some places as long as there is live AC being supplied to the ATX power supply, even when Windows is Shut Down or in Standby or Hibernate modes, and even if you have no hard drive installed at all. Failing to remove the AC power can cause damage to components and/or the power supply when you change a connection or component.

If the computer is plugged into a power bar, or a UPS device, turning off the power bar or UPS will remove the AC power yet the case is still grounded through the cord.
If there is a power switch on the computer power supply, you can turn that off and the computer will still be grounded through the cord. The problem with that is it's easy to lose track of whether it is off or on. Many mboards have an led on the mboard that is on as long as live AC is being supplied to the mboard's power supply and the mboard. When you remove the AC power that led doesn't go off right away, but it will in a short time when the capacitors in the power supply have discharged.
If you unplug the power cord, you can ground the case / mboard by other means, such as by using gadjets that ground them to your body or to other things that can drain away any static buildup.

The reason you are supposed to keep the case grounded, which grounds the mboard too, is integrated chips and other elecronic components on the mboard etc. are vulnerable to being damaged by static electricity discharges.
In the real world whether you actually need to always keep the case/mboard grounded depends on your situation.
My computers are in a room with vinyl tile flooring, and the few area rugs in the room have a partial cotton composition which naturally dissapates static electricity. There is no wall to wall carpeting in my home. All the floor coverings are vinyl tile or "linoleum" or varathaned oak hardwood. All of the area rugs have a partial cotton content. I am almost always wearing clothing that is 100% cotton or has a cotton component so static rarely builds up from that possible source. I don't have a static buildup problem, so I often just unplug the computer and don't bother grounding the case otherwise.
You may need to keep the computer case/PS grounded.
If your computer is in a room with carpeting that does not have any cotton or other content that naturally drains away static electricity, that can be a static electricity source, especially when the humidity in the room is low (more likely in the winter heating season, if that applies).
If you are wearing clothing that static can build up in, that can be a source. If it gets staticy in your clothes drier, it can certainly be a source.
If you have noticed the occaisional static discharge from your body to grounded objects where your computer is located, you should definately make sure the case/mboard is always grounded.

Whatever your situation, if you use a vaccuum cleaner to clean your case or mboard, the case/mboard should always be grounded while you do that - vacuum cleaners build up a tremendous amount of static electricity while being used, unless they have been specifically designed to drain away that buildup, such as ones made to be used on computers / electronic components.
....

I used to think the requirement of there being no live AC to the power supply didn't apply to just plugging in or unplugging power connectors to drives. I was proven wrong not long ago when I merely plugged in a power connector to a hard drive and got a tiny spark and found that had instantly fried the power supply.