|ATX family computers are always powered in some places on the mboard, including some of the contacts in the PCI-E X16 slot, even when the computer is NOT running, as long s the PS is receiving live AC power.|
Did you REMOVE the AC power to the computer at ALL times when you were fiddling with the video card or any connections inside the case ?
If you didn't do that at ALL times, you may have damaged the circuits of the video card, or the PCI-E X 16 slot, or both.
If you HAVE damaged the card, it won't work with ANY computer.
Can you try it with another desktop computer ?
I found another thread you started: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/for...
If you DID remove the AC power at ALL times.....
GeForce GT 440 - Specifications
"Minimum System Power Requirement (W) 300 W"
If you have a DECENT fairly recent 350 watt PS, the card should work fine with your system.
- PSs with the same wattage capacity rating can have all sorts of ratings for their max +12 volt amperage output, and that's primarily what must be at least a minimum or higher for the system for the video chipset on the card.
- an older PS of a certain wattage capacity often has a higher max amperage rating at +5 volts, a lower rating at +12 volts, in comparison to a newer PS
- el-cheapo PS brands / models often have a lower max amperage rating at +12 volts, and in some cases that rating is a lie.
- any PS may not be actually able to achieve it's full amperage ratings when it's been used a long time.
- some PSs, more likely cheaper models, have a fan with two sleeve bearings, or one sleeve bearing, one ball bearing, that tend to have problems or fail sooner as time goes by than fans that have two ball bearings or better. If the fan on the PS is no longer spinning at it's rated speed, or if it's no longer spinning at all, the PS will overheat and damage itself eventually, and if it still works it will not be able to achieve it's full max amperage ratings anymore.
If you can borrow a PS from a working system that has a 300 watt capacity or more, try that with your system.
If not, or in any case, your 350 watt PS may be inferior or defective or damaged and you need to replace it.
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should have.
(If the ad description, or the manufacturer's description of the model on the manufacturer's web site, or the label on the PS itself, does NOT say the the wattage rating is for Continuous use or similar, it's an intermittent rating.)
You can usually replace it with any decent quality standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo (in quality) PS.
See response 3 in this:
I no longer recommend Cooler Master, AOpen, or Sparkle power supplies.
I'm now downgrading Thermaltake to middle of the road.
Antec has two lines of PSs - the better line has a longer warranty for the same or similar capacity - the other line is more towards middle of the road.
AMD has a list of Certified (tested and found to be good quality) PSs:
"Did you disable the onboard video, reclaim the shared RAM, & change the Primary Graphics Adapter to PCIe?"
There are some recent, and older but fairly recent, main chipsets that support Hybrid video - both the onboard video and the video on a graphics card in a slot working at the same time - and in that case if the video chipset on the card in the slot is NOT supported by the Hybrid video feature, you MAY get no video from the video card and the onboard video is still working with default bios settings, and in that case you must change at least one setting from it's default setting in the mboard's bios Setup to get video from the card in the mboard slot.
That does NOT apply to the NVIDIA® GeForce 7025 / nForce 630a main chipset on your ASRock N68C-S UCC mboard.
If the main chipset does NOT support the Hybrid video feature, then there is NO setting in the bios that actually disables the onboard video.
When you install a video card in a PCI-E X16 slot, if the card is getting enough power and is recognized properly, the bios disables the onboard video automatically, and any settings in the bios regarding sharing ram with the onboard video are ignored - the ram is no longer shared with the onboard video.
However, you SHOULD make sure that the Primary video or Initialize video first, or similar setting in the bios is set to to PCI-E or similar in order for the video to work as it was desgned to in Windows with the specific drivers that are loaded for the video chipset on the card.