plug in for on/off switch

July 5, 2009 at 18:42:57
Specs: Windows XP

I have a emachine etower 633id I have changed the motherboard to intel desktop board d815efv/d815epfv.The trouble is I can't find where to plug in the on/off switch.They r both 370 socket can anyone please help me with this

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July 5, 2009 at 18:55:05

Do you have the manual for the Intel board? If not, go to the Intel site & download it.

According to the following guide, the power switch *probably* connect to pins 6 & 8...not sure if that's true for your board or not though.

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July 5, 2009 at 19:08:11

jam is correct...that's the "Intel Standard".

Page 85


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July 5, 2009 at 19:10:16

You may need a magnifying glass but I bet it is on the board
pw hd reset.....

I was going to suggest touching two pins with a flat head screw see which start the machine.....

Or not to worry about what direction they are connected....

but the issue of the smoke leaking out and polarity has already been discussed to death.

I would suggest that while your in there, replace the Bestec power supply.....

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July 5, 2009 at 20:18:50

iam,the connector coming off the on/off switch is only a single connector not a double one.On the old motherboard there was a spot just for that plugin the single connector has 9 hole they go yellow, blue space black,red,plug,white,green,space

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July 5, 2009 at 21:09:51

Why is this so difficult? Both Skip & I supplied links that explain the pin layout.

The front panel header has 9 pins, 5 on one side, 4 on the other. The 5 pin side has the odd numbers - 1, 3, 5, 7, 9. The 4 pin side has the even numbers - 2, 4, 6, 8....there is no pin # 10. The power switch connects to pins 6 & 8.

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July 5, 2009 at 21:19:12

Yellow/ Blue= DC switch

Red/Black= HDD LED

Green/White= Power LED

Taken directly from a working eMachine eTower 555ix with TriGem Socket 370 Mobo.

If you have a very thin Exacto Saw you can carefully cut the one piece, Plastic, plug through the empty sockets and they should work on the Intel Board Pins.

Keep the Wire Pairs as they are.

You may have to narrow the individual plugs for clearance, using Sandpaper or a fine file.

There is nothing to learn from someone who already agrees with you.

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July 5, 2009 at 21:37:43

I think it's the one piece plastic plug with inline connectors that is causing the OP's problem.

The plug is rigid & fits the pin-out here

There is nothing to learn from someone who already agrees with you.

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July 5, 2009 at 21:53:51

OK, then just pull the all the wires out of the connector & connect them to the header individually. If you look closely, a tiny metal tab is what locks them into the plastic connector. Prying on the tab slightly while gently pulling on the wire *should* release it.

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July 5, 2009 at 22:09:00

That'll work too!

But, for me, I'm getting too old to deal with tiny wires one at a time. :-)

There is nothing to learn from someone who already agrees with you.

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July 6, 2009 at 05:21:23

Hey, I'm old too, but I just got new

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July 6, 2009 at 11:04:45

I'm even older and so are my glasses. I've has some luck cutting those apart with an Xacto knife or Xacto saw blade.

It is pretty fine work and I don't usually have everything encased in plastic when finished.


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July 7, 2009 at 14:54:30

skip,when you said to cut it do you mean cut the conector at the open spaces so one conector turns into 3 small one.I am sorry but this is the first time doing this.

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July 7, 2009 at 16:14:55

Yes. I try to cut the plastic between the wires I need to free them up; It's tedious work.

So, identify the wires at the on/off switch by color and trace them down to your connector. Do the same for the reset switch, power led, etc.

It doesn't matter how the wires for the on/off and reset switches are oriented. There is no + or - to worry about. The led wires do have a + and -. Plug the led wires in backward and the led dosn't work...usually no chance of damaging anything, just doesn't light up.


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