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Alright, about a week ago my PC was working fine, until I decided that my temperatures ran hot. I took out the CPU and I applied a new layer of AS5. After then, the PC would not start up, all of the fans spun for a second and turned off. Same goes for the SATA HDD. The PATA DVD drive does not respond, however.
I've sent my CPU back to newegg, and I received it today, I apply AS5, insert everything right, and plug everything in. I got the same thing, fans spin for a second and turns off. Here's some extra stuff you should know;
Antec Earthwatts 430Watt
Intel E2160
2GB DDR2 800 RAM
Centurion 5 case
P35 DS3L
Msi RX3850
SATA WD 250GB 8mB HDD
PATA DVD DriveIf I remove the CPU power cable, all the fans spin continuously, if it's plugged in I get the same deal with the fans.
I really don't know what it could be, I tested my PSU by doing the paperclip on the green and black wire trick, it ran fine.
PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE. I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO RMA THE MOTHERBOARD.
"If I remove the CPU power cable" What power cable? Do you mean the heatsink fan connection? You are connecting the HSink fan to the header marked CPU?
How much AS are you applying? Little bit goes a long way.
Try clearing the CMOS with the computer unplugged. If it then starts you need to immediately enter the BIOS and reset values. Good idea to set in the PC Health section and monitor temps for a bit.
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The 2x2 4 pin connector for the CPU. I've cleared the CMOS several times already. I do not get any feedback from my monitor, the PC is only on for a split second, really.
I apply a little bit of AS5, thats not the problem.
All of my fans are plugged in.
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If the MBoard was already installed why did you disconnect any of the wiring just to R&R the CPU? Describe what you did do.
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I'm just saying that without that CPU power thing plugged in, the other fans spin, and the PCU does not shut down. I really doubt it's the PSU, is it something wrong with the Mobo? And if it is, I need to be %100 sure it is. It takes a week to RMA it.
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And I am asking what you did in between. The MBoard was working. High temps can't be caused by the MBoard. If the board is not working now it is caused by something you did. You sure you have the HSink installed right?
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In between what?
Ok, I'll go through it. I was playing COD4 on said PC, and went to sleep. When I woke up and wanted to change my Thermal Paste, as I forgot to take the stock paste from the heatsink the first time. So I take the Cooler off and the cpu to clean it off. I applied a nice new layer, and put everything back in. I might've pressed a little hard on the motherboard when I put the HSF on the second time. It was apparently clipped in already when I thought it wasn't. I doubt the mobo would stop to function because of that, though.
I closed everything up after I got the HSF and CPU back into the mobo. I did not see or feel any static discharge coming from the mobo to me and vice versa(Standoffs are on as well). I plugged it in, and hit the power button. The PC then started for a second, with the fans, and shut off. This is when I decided to RMA the CPU, as I though I might've gotten Arctic Silver 5 onto the pins. I discovered that it runs fine without the CPU power when I was trying to see what the problem was by turning the computer components on one by one. I received my new CPU today, and it's the same story, so we can rule the CPU out of this.
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"discovered that it runs fine without the CPU power?"
You mean that it boots up without the power to cpu??? The 4 pin from PSU to motherboard.
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Confusing. Why did you feel you needed to remove the stock thermal pad?
When you removed it, I assume you thoroughly cleaned the top of the CPU & bottom of heatsink? Then wiped with alcohol?
And when you applied the AS5, you used a thin line of paste down the center of the CPU & did NOT spread it around?
Here's the instructions:
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Sounds to me like you may have broken the MBoard PCB (printed circuit board).
The best thing you can try now is to remove the MBoard from the case and remove all cables, cards, etc.
Set the MBoard outside the case on a non- conductive surface (the MB box & foam work well). All that is required is The PSU, CPU/HS/fan, 1 stick of RAM, graphics card or onboard if equipped, KBoard, monitor.
Connect the 20/24 pin power connector and the square 4 pin connector. Be sure the HS fan is connected properly. Connect KB & monitor. Nothing else, no case wiring, drives, etc. Touch the two pins that are used for the power switch momentarily with a screwdriver. Unit should start. Did you check to verify you didn't install the HS backwards?
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i've had problems with the cpu fan mount touching solder points on the back of the moo...when n the case it caused a short, you said u pushed down hard, you may of made contact with a pice that was close to a short. Since it only stays on for a few seconds, it has to be somthign in your case shorting out. If your mobo was bad it would nto run when u unplug the cp mostlikly. If your cpu was bad removing it would have no affect mostlikly. My bet is some soldier joint near the cpu is shorting agasnst your case or against the medle cpu fan mount. It has to be a short someware from these symtoms. Also, make sure you dont have ur reset/ power button wires swiched as well as ur hdd led and power led. If any of these are wrong it could cause a short....ifnothign works, try the suggestion above baout taking your mobo out and runing it with only ram video and cpu..i'm assuming you dont get nay beep code right? If it beeps ur mobo and cpu are fine...google what the code means online
Always back up...I JUST LOST 287 gigs entertainment!
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No beeps at all(Not really on long enough for beeps), I checked the board thoroughly about 3 hours ago and there doesn't seem to be any problems with it. So you think something is shorting out? When I installed the Heatsink, I unplugged and set the PSU off, I don't see how it can short with no power.
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And don't worry, I applied the thermal paste right, I made the horizontal line just like the site.
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I did not run it while it was out of the case, but I did look for cracks and what not, I guess I should run it on the foam pad that came with it? BRB then.
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Alright, I did what you asked. RAM, Mobo, and GPU, and monitor. And PSU. It's still the same deal, but hold on. I've found some AS5 that was on my finger because I spread it the VERY first time. It was on the back and I took it off and it's still the same business. Do you recommend me to RMA the Mobo?
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Use some solvent like rubbing alcohol to clean off the AS from the MB. Verify the CMOS jumper is in the run position.
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"And don't worry, I applied the thermal paste right, I made the horizontal line just like the site"
OK, hopefully you made that line down the center of both cores & not perpendicular to them.
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"The old paste is in fingerprint form, and it's nearly invisible"
I'm not sure what that means?
One more try. Before you apply paste, ALL traces of the old paste or pad MUST be completely removed from the top of the CPU & bottom of the heatsink. Then it should be wiped clean with a solvent such as rubbing alcohol or acetone. Once that is done, do NOT touch either surface with your fingers or you'll contaminate them & lessen the ability to transfer heat into the heatsink. Apply a small line of paste as shown in the pic from the Arctic Silver link & make sure the line is over the cores, not perpendicular to them.
BTW, you never said why you felt changing the paste was necessary or what your CPU temp was like before you did it. Post your system temp as well...if your case temp is high, your CPU temp will be high. Obviously you can't cool as well with warm air as you can with cooler air.
As a very general rule of thumb, the system temp should be within 10C of the average room temp, & the CPU temp (at idle) should be within 10C of the system temp.
Example:
Room temp = 21C (approx 70F)
System temp = 22-31C
CPU @ idle = 32-41C
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I changed CPU paste because I had the stock thermal grease and AS5. Idle temps were 29C and 54C load on Orthos. This is stock. 2.4Ghz OC and idle was 32C and Orthos ran at 65C+
Whenever I played COD4 I got my 70C Alarm to go off.The mobo had AS5 from my finger, as in, some AS5 got on my finger and I touched the mobo and it stuck.
It doesn't matter now, my mom is dropping off the Mobo as I type.
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"Idle temps were 29C and 54C load on Orthos."
In other words, there was nothing wrong with your temps....
"some AS5 got on my finger and I touched the mobo and it stuck"
Nice. And you didn't bother to clean it off?
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"Did Newegg exchange your processor with artic silver on it?"
Just to expand a little on that...using Arctic Silver voids the AMD warranty.
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jam, that is why I asked. There was nothing wrong with the chip anyway. Don'tknow about the MBoard.
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"There was nothing wrong with the chip anyway"
Agreed.
"Don'tknow about the MBoard"
Me either. AS5 supposedly is non-conductive, but it still should have be cleaned off the board. Personally, I don't use AS5 or any AS products...never have & probably never will.
He *may* have damaged the board when reinstalling the HSF, but it would have had to deflect quite a bit under a LOT of pressure. Even so, I'm not convinced that's the problem.
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I cleaned off the AS5 from the CPU, newegg RMAd it fine. I did not know there was residual paste on the mobo, but it worked fine with it, as it was UNDER the mobo, and I did not take the mobo off when I re-applied the AS5 when it stopped working. It has to be the Mobo, as I've tested the PSU, CPU, RAM, VGA and various other things. And theres only 1 thing left!
And my temperatures WERE bad. On stock, those where phenomenal. But a small overclock and they rose to 65C+! Those are bad temps. I stopped Orthos before anything went bad, so I don't know where the true temp was but it's a lot.
What do you guys mean theres nothing wrong with the chip? The CPU?
It's already sent, and it's probably half way through NJ.
Anything else that could happen?
Heres another question, is it possible that a new CPU could be ruined because of a bad socket on the Mobo? THat would be bad to happen.
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No, but you could bend pins if you are not careful. The processor should fall into the socket.
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True, C2D's have no pins...the socket 775 has pins:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:...
Regardless, whatever it is that happened was caused by you when you changed the CPU. It sounds like you got paste all over the place so you obviously used too much. Whether it shorted out something on the board or not, we can't tell you. And whether you damaged the board by pushing too hard on it, we can't tell you that either.
If you knew anything about Intel CPUs you'd know that it's virtually impossible to fry one. They have built-in thermal protection circuitry & will shutdown way before the temp reachs the point of no return. My guess is you either used too much paste or installed the heatsink incorrectly (or both) & when you try to boot the system, the CPU is immediately hitting the shutdown temp.
Take the heatsink off (again), clean off ALL the old paste (again) & make absolutely sure to re-apply it properly (again). Then drop the CPU in the socket, close the "load plate" & lock it down, then install the HSF (again).
How is the HSF secured in place? Plastic push pins?
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Yeah, I said a few times that I RMAd it. I'm sure I've gotten the CPU and HSF on correctly, thanks for the help, though.
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this is why the rest of us have to pay more for parts. I don't think they should replace those parts.
larry
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Larry, those are the cheapest best value parts there are. They're DROPPING in price! E2160 dropped $4.
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Your missing my point. There was nothing wrong with the motherboard & processor you sent back, until you got a hold of them. do you thing they absorb that cost or pass it along to the rest of us?
larry
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larry does have a point. You must have initially installed the HSF incorrectly or you wouldn't had CPU temp problems in the 1st place. You most likely RMA'd a perfectly good CPU. Then you RMA'd a motherboard that *may* still have been good. Those items will probably be re-sold as "open box" items which will be a bargain for someone, but it will be a loss for the vendor.
I really don't think you spent enough time troubleshooting your problem.
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I really don't think the Mobo was working. I mean, what else could it be? It's not the GPU, CPU,PSU,RAM, Case Jumpers and what not. Maybe it got hit by static and I did not know.
I know I didn't install HSF right the first time, although it worked, the layer of AS5 was too thick combined with the stock thermal grease.
I believe I did enough troubleshooting to know it did not work.
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The point is the MBoard you just RMAed WAS working until you removed the CPU/HS/fan. You did something to cause it to not work any longer.
Could have been electrostatic discharge from not properly grounding. Excess pressure when aplying the HS. Or something else. You stated somewhere you really had to push hard on the HS retainers.
Personally I install the CPU/HS/fan while the board is out of the case. If done properly and benchtested (which also means motitoring the temp in the BIOS), there should be no reason to R&R the HS. If the need should arise experience teaches how hard you can push.
"I forgot to take the stock paste from the heatsink the first time". Was that a thermal pad? Did you buy OEM or retail? The board WAS working up to this point. That kind of indicates that something you did caused to quit.
Learn from this experience.
When you get a MBoard back the first thing you need to do is hold it in the case and doublecheck that standoffs are placed under every screwhole in the MBoard and ONLY in those positions. There may be additional threaded holes that remain unused. Then clear the cmos using the jumper and verify the jumper is in the RUN position. Now install the processor with HS/fan, 1 stick of RAM, graphics card unless integrated is available, connect the power connectors to the MBoard, connect a PS/2 KBoard and monitor. No other connections or cards at this time. place the MBoard on an insulated surface. I usually set the MBoard box across one end of the tower, which is lying on its side. apply power to the system and short the two power button pins momentarily with a screwdriver. That should cause the system to fire up. Immediately enter the BIOS screens to monitor temps. If temps are good then you can install the MBoard into the case without installing any additional hardware or cables. Fire it again. If all goes well add the front case wiring and the boot harddrive. Test again. Continue adding stuff until all internals are connected. Take much care with any header wiring as it is easy to get wrong.
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My case is labeled with the proper ATX holes, and I've checked to make sure they're all set. I doubt I would need to do the mobo outside of the case thing again, this room is dusty as it is and I don't want to short anything by doing that. The first time I installed the CPU and HSF was when the mobo was outside of the case, second time it was in the case.
My particular motherboard only has a CLR_CMOS jumper, and the manual says just to touch them both with a screwdriver. No jumper cap, or a run position.
Once again, thanks for the help, but I will post back here if it was not the mobo, which is HIGHLY unlikely.
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Well at last it would seem the MB had been shorted out by what you have said, It may have when you placed the Cpu 4 pin connecter when still power on MB.
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Oh, no. I didn't pull the 4Pin while there was power in mobo, I'm not stupid. It could have been just static hitting it that I never heard/felt.
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