PC does not create beep sound on POST?

November 5, 2011 at 08:16:16
Specs: Windows 7, core i3
I have build up a new pc with the following components. Intel core i3 2100, motherboard Intel DH61 WW, Corsair's 4gb(2X2) RAM 1333, Seagate's 500gb HDD 7200 rpm, PSU corsair vx 450w, OS win7.

Now the problem is, when I boot the pc there is no beep sound on POST and without beep sound the pc booted the os. I have checked the buzzer by removing the RAMs and it proved to be fine.

The second problem is, whenever I coped some large file (around 10 to 20gb) from one volume or outer sources to another volume of computer's drive, it takes lots of time, though the configuration is high enough. And after fifteen minutes, when my monitor goes to power saving mode (the default setting), then I wanted to see the monitor of how much time remaining by pressing any key from keyboard and the coping files stop works forever.

Please help! If anyone have any idea regarding the issues please let me know.

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November 5, 2011 at 08:31:15
READ your mboard manual - Intel makes excellent manuals - regarding what the normal situation is regarding whether it is supposed to beep after the POST completes successfully while booting, or look for that info on the manufacturer's web site in the support for the model - e.g. FAQs - or elsewhere. Some recent laptops and netbooks no longer produce mboard beeps - they flash leds on the keyboard instead (e.g. for Num Lock or Caps Lock or Scroll Lock or more than one of those) when there is something wrong. Recent desktop mboards may have something different than expected for the mboard beeps too.

You MUST install the main chipset drivers for your mboard after Window's Setup has finished when you install Windows from scratch. The main chipset drivers have *.inf files that tell the operating system the capabilities of the main chipset and if Windows does not have that info you're likely to have problems.

If your mboard has USB 2.0 controllers the built in support for them and USB 2.0 devices is NOT automatically installed until AFTER the main chipset drivers have been installed.

Your drives will probably NOT be able to run at the speed thay are capable of in Windows, and the ACPI features of the mboard - Standby, Hibernate, sometimes Restart in Windows; Wake on ... in the bios regarding Windows - may NOT work properly, until AFTER you have installed the main chipset drivers.

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November 6, 2011 at 22:01:32
I have already installed all the drivers of the motherboard including chipset.

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November 7, 2011 at 08:30:21
"PSU corsair vx 450w"

That's okay if you're using onboard video or a modest to mid range video card in a mboard slot, but it may not have enough capacity for some video cards in a slot.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should have.

If you need to get a PS with more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent quality standard sized standard ATX PS.

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.

Look at Device Manager to see if anything is flagged with a yellow ! or a red X, and to see whether there any devices listed as Unknown or not having the drivers installed for them.

(E.g. double click on Computer - click on System Properties in the top bar, the link to Device Manager is on the left.)

If any of the locations you have the data on or that you're copying to or from are on an external hard drive or are on something connected to the computer via a USB or firewire connection, the max data transfer rate is MUCH slower than it is compared to copying data from one internal hard drive partition to another internal hard drive partition

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