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I own two computers, my main one and a dedicated server. Recently my server was on during a lightning storm and after it would not POST or beep. Since then I have bought a new motherboard and decided that i would put my old motherboard (a perfectly working MSI K7T Turbo2) in my server box to try and get it working again. So, i replaced the motherboard of the server with my old working one and still no post or beeps. I then replaced the RAM, CPU, PSU, Video Card and have independantly tested the Hard Drives (which all worked).
I have built several computers before and never had this kind of problem, i cannot even run any diagnostics because it will not post. Any suggestions?

check your individual case wiring for burns/shorts from the lightning jolt. make sure your board isn't shorting out on the bottom; once I had to put strips of thick Scotch packaging tape across the bottom of the metal case to stop some kind of short. If you have replaced your power supply, video card, memory, have a new CPU and a new board, then one of them is bad. Video card doen't count, you will post but not see anything if it's bad. So one of the others is bad, unbelievable as it sounds.

Have you checked your power supply? in order for it to turn on it first checks +5 and +3 volts. it doesn't examine +-12, -5 volts at all.
Testing the ATX Power Supply (out of the case)
OK. first look at this:ATX Power supply
remove the power supply. locate and jumper pin 14 to 13 or 15. this will tell the power supply to turn on. Choose any common (com) connection and put the volt meter between that and pin 8. If it reads hi( not zero but like 5V) then the power supply is saying the +3.3V and +5V is ok. this signal tells the motherboard to begin the POST.
not shut it off and connect a 10ohm 10W resistor between pins 4&5 or 6&7. turn it on and read the +5V across the resistor. it should be ablt to hold this indefinitely.
perform the same test across
pins 2&3 (+3.3V)
pins 17&18 (-5V)
pins 7&10 (+12V)
pins 12&13 (-12V)
In order to get the correct polarity reading use the negative (black)probe on the COM pins.
Of any of these changes by say 5% or you can read AC as well as DC on these there is a problem. you will get minute amounts of AC but very low like single millivolts but hundreds of millivolts is bad.
If this is confusing, have someone familiar with a voltmeter show you how.

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