new amd athlon proc - mobo choice

Ecs / Sl5wh
January 3, 2009 at 18:14:51
Specs: Windows XP, Intel P4 1.9
hello people. i just got a new cpu, it's an AMD Athlon.
AXDA 1700 DLT3C AIUGA 0248VPLW

Did my research, and it turns out it's a 1.5ghz amd athlon xp. couldn't really figure out the core whether it is thoroughbred or barton or whatnot.

AXDA = athlon xp 0.13
1700 = model 1700+ ; 1467mhz
D = package type OPGA
L = 1.50 volt core
T = 90C temp
3 = 256kb level2 cache
C = 266 mhz maximum system bus speed supported by the proc

I got all the above info from AMDboard.com OPN identification.

The question I have is which of these mobos I have would best work with it:

1. ECS K7VZA rev 3.0-- northbridge VIA8363 or 8363A; southbridge VIA VT82C686B. now there's a sticker on its parallel port says it can support 133MHz FSB and I believe the cpu can run at 266FSB so unless I can raise the FSB on the mobo, it would be a loss, right ? and this mobo has three sdram slots plus AGP, made of one long slot -no notch- I guess it may be the AGP1? help here pls... it's definitely an AGP slot. I just downloaded its manual from the ecs.com.tw location and LOL look at the wording: "The mainboard has a socket 462 to accomodate AMD Athlon (K7) processors that support frontside bus (FSB) speeds up to 200/266MHz" What am I to get from that message? That it will run with my cpu, but it will just RUN with a 266bus cpu, NOT employ its full 266 if needed ? Moving along, it supports 4xAGP, which is a Plus for me, I have quite a few AGP 128mb cards laying around, nvidia and ati. it has onboard audio, doesn't have onboard lan, but i have enough of those around too. here's the mobot to it, http://motherboards.org/mobot/mothe... . downside, I only have 256MB of good SDRAM around here.

2. ECS K7SOM+ v 7.5A - http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Pr... and mobot http://motherboards.org/mobot/mothe...
this one supports higher FSB as stated there 266/200 while the k7vza says 200 on mobot.i just wanna make sure i can get all that the cpu has to offer. don't I ? it supports DDR, and I have 2 sticks of 256MB in here. downside, it has NO AGP slot, just a 64mb onboard. i have some PCI videocards .. TNT64 and such, but all are 32mb.

I guess the main question is, which of these two mobos can I use to get the most performance out of the system I'll start building in the next hour or so ? Awaiting feedback people :)

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


See More: new amd athlon proc - mobo choice

Report •


#1
January 3, 2009 at 18:40:37
Are you sure the first board is that model number? I can't find it on the ECS site.

The first board should allow the chip to run at the designed speed. The RAM speed is 133 as it should take SDRAM.


Report •

#2
January 3, 2009 at 18:48:53
yes that's the right name for it. here, http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Pr... but they have no info on it just the photo and the fact that it won some awards. the better place to view it is mobot here http://motherboards.org/mobot/mothe...

and yes i just read up in its pdf, it can do 266fsb. i'm looking around here on the form i don't see how to attach the pdf.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#3
January 3, 2009 at 18:55:24
You can't attach any files here. Only can post links.

The only problem you may have is if the BIOS is old and doesn't support the CPU. In my experience with that brand all that would happen is the chip might not run at the proper speed until you flash the BIOS. But the board should POST.


Report •

Related Solutions

#4
January 3, 2009 at 18:58:15
overall, are you saying the first mobo is the better one to try then ?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#5
January 3, 2009 at 19:19:04
it sound as though you are saying you have 256mb of ram for the 1st board & 512mb for the 2nd? are you buying these boards, or is it a choice between 2 free boards.

larry


Report •

#6
January 3, 2009 at 19:34:56
I understand you have these two Socket 462 boards and wish to build a system around one of them.

The VIA chipset is a much better performer than the SIS.

I was going with the first board but larry brings up a good point.

You didn't state what OS you intended to run. Even 512MB is a little lean for WinXP.

The VIA board would run OK with Win98se.


Report •

#7
January 3, 2009 at 19:40:19
if RAM is the only question, i can put in the 512stick + a 128mb stick until i get some more tomorrow.

to Larry, I have them both here, they are mine. I'm moving on to the K7VZA set-up I'm gonna look at the jumpers and clear the cmos then run it up see what it says. I'll post back within 10mins

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#8
January 3, 2009 at 19:54:24
So you have a total of 768MB of SDRAM?

Report •

#9
January 3, 2009 at 20:02:58
Your CPU is an Athlon XP, not an Athlon...there's a difference. And don't get confused by terminology. As is stated in the manual, "the K7VZA features a Socket 462 accommodating AMD Athlon processors that support 64/256 KB L2 OnChip cache, and 100/200 MHz or 133/266 MHz host bus/core speed."

Notice how they refer to the bus speed as "100/200 MHz or 133/266 MHz". AMD "double pumps" the FSB. In other words, 200MHz FSB actually runs at 100MHz frequency, 266MHz FSB actually runs at 133MHz frequency.

As for the boards you mentioned, #2 is based on an SiS chipset, don't even consider it. SiS only put out one decent chipset for the socket A platform & that was the SiS735. It was used on the extremely popular ECS K7S5A.

Board #1 is based on either the VIA KT133 or KT133A chipset. You're gonna have to find out which by looking for the number on the northbridge chip (if it's not covered by a heatsink). Notice how the manual is worded, "The VT8363/VT8363A and VT82C686A/VT82C686B chipsets from VIA are featured in this board." Those are 4 different chips, 2 northbridge & 2 southbridge. The VT8363 = KT133, VT8363A = KT133A. The KT133 was a bit of a disappointment because it didn't support 133MHz/266MHz FSB CPUs. It was revised not long after it was released & became the KT133A. The KT133A kicked a$$ & powered many high performance boards in it's heyday. The differences in the southbridge chips are explained as, "The VT82C686A supports UDMA33/66; the VT82C686B supports up to UDMA100." So the best pairing would be the VT8363A (KT133A) with the VT82C686B.

And just FYI, the best performing chipset for the socket A is the nVidia nForce2.


Report •

#10
January 3, 2009 at 22:09:44
well jam you're right i was all clogged up with numbers i forgot the measure for amds is actually half and all. but i've got some better news, and some worse news :)

the athlon xp is burned out. my cousin's gonna bring it back and shake the dude up a bit see what he brings back. but when he came to get it, he brought me an asrock k7vt4a pro. i've been reading up on it some, looks like a workable mobo with upto 400mhz fsb. in the manual 400 isn't mentioned, but it's shown on the board by the fsbsel jumpers. it also has 5 rows of 3 for the multiplier setting, and i'm wondering why there are no jumpers on that at all. can it work w/o them? on the manual it says to leave them as they are :)) they're missing

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#11
January 4, 2009 at 08:06:40
"an asrock k7vt4a pro. i've been reading up on it some, looks like a workable mobo with upto 400mhz fsb"

No, it only supports 333MHz FSB. If there is a jumper for 400MHz FSB, it's "unofficial". I wouldn't run out & buy an AXP 400MHz FSB Barton CPU in the hopes that it will run...you *may* end up very disappointed.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.a...

http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.asp?Mo...

"i'm wondering why there are no jumpers on that at all. can it work w/o them?"

From the manual:

"The jumper caps are not provided by ASRock. Please understand that ASRock does not guarantee and support the adjustment of multiplier. These jumpers setting may not apply to all multiplier-locked or even some unlocked AMD CPU. Frequencies other than the recommended CPU bus frequencies may cause the instability of the system or damage the CPU."

The multiplier is locked on the vast majority of Athlon/AthlonXP/Sempron CPUs & can't be adjusted, so unless your CPU is unlocked, the caps are unnecessary.

"the athlon xp is burned out"

Be extremely careful when installing the HSF on a socket A CPU. The core is exposed & can be easily damaged. Also, the CPU will fry instantly if it's fired up without a heatsink or if the heatsink is installed incorrectly. When applying paste, just use a tiny dab about the size of a grain of rice & spread it thinly & evenly over the core.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/app...

As for the heatsink itself, make sure to put it on correctly...install it backwards & it's likely the CPU will fry. Notice how the notch in the heatsink goes over the step in the CPU socket:

http://www.laray.com/build/heat4.jpg

Get it wrong & you're in trouble.


Report •

#12
January 4, 2009 at 10:53:14
jam, i promise you i've done everything right, didn't expose the cpu to damage at all, from heat nor brute force.

let me get you updated on the newest:

I have not one, but three asrocks, all identical k7vt4a pro. i also have a few cpu's i want to mention, and hopefully you can tell me which I can try on the asrock.

btw i have all the multiplier caps off so i'm on auto for the multiplier setting

1. amd sempron sda2200dut3d. this one i've already tried, it came from the guy who sold my cousin the bad cpu last nite, he paid back the money and offered up some more cpu's and asks that i let him have a system once i have some done :) it runs at 1.5ghz with the bus at 333mhz, with fsb at 333, because it has the 9 multiplierx166

2. athlon xp AXDA1800DLT3C bus speed 266 .. i don't think i can get the jumpers to accept this one, can I ? because it has 11.5 multiplier and 11.5X133=1.5ghz, which is the right value it should set to. but how can i set the bus jumpers to get 133? oh.. should i set the jumpers to 266? help on this one please. math failing me.

3.athlon xp axda1700dlt3c it has a bus speed of 266, multiplier of 11. this one should also reach 1.5ghz, so 11x133=1.5ghz. again, how can i set fsb to 133, if my only available options written on the mobo are 200/266/333/400 (we'll ignore that 400). can it be done ? hm maybe if I use the multiplier jumpers on these athlon xp's? i'd lose myself because of all this half-ing i have to do due to amd policy of writing down double at the cpu bus speed. help :P

4. athlon xp axda2600dkv4d this one is pretty awesome i think. it has a bus speed of 333mhz, like the sempron (#1 on this list), but this one has an 11.5 multiplier in it. so .. trying to do the math. .it has to end up with 1.9ghz so i'm just gonna do the backwards math: 1917(the real mhz)/166=11.54. therefore the multiplier is close to, but no cigar. i mean .. can it be done? by setting the fsb to 333 and hoping it will closely match the cpu multiplier? help me man :)

5. amd duron dhd1200amt1b = bus speed 200mhz, multiplier 12, so if i set the fsb to 200, this one should run at its imposed 1200mhz. right?

6. amd duron dhd1200amt1b just like #5, the difference is on the second line of the opn which i think makes the steppinc codes differ somehow. #5 is AHLCA and #6 is AHLDA

All right .. I really want to test out all these cpu's in the asrock IF I can and if you guys advise me to. if any are burnt out, i wanna chuck them. Ok I'm gonna sit here and wait for feedback now :D

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#13
January 4, 2009 at 13:24:52
You need to realize that "rounding" is used for bus speeds. Although the CPU frequency is referred to as 133MHz, it's actually 133.3333...Mhz. 166MHz is actually 166.6666...MHz.

So using the "athlon xp axda2600dkv4d" for an example, you get 11.5 x 166.6666 = 1916.66MHz, which is also rounded to 1917MHz.

Of the CPU's you listed, the AXP 2600+ (#4) is the best.

The 2nd best CPU is the Sempron 2200+ (#1). The Sempron is nothing more than an AXP that's been reworked to run at 166MHz/333FSB. The higher bus speed is what makes it better than the other AXP's on your list.

The Durons are low end CPUs. They run at 100MHz/200FSB plus they only have 64k L2 cache. The AXP/Sempron has either 256k or 512k L2 depending on the core. None of the CPUs you mentioned have 512k L2.

Here's the list from best to worst:

1. AXP 2600+
2. Sempron 2200+
3. AXP 1800+
4. AXP 1700+
5. Duron 1200


Report •

#14
January 4, 2009 at 13:30:14
can you add next to the first four, please, the fsb setting i'd use? choices are 200, 266,333. please :D and i'll get right to it.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#15
January 4, 2009 at 13:36:11
I would try letting the board configure the processors automatically and see what you get.

I'm sure jam can give you that info though.


Report •

#16
January 4, 2009 at 13:40:40
1&2. 166/333Mhz
3&4. 133/266Mhz
5. 100/200Mhz

Skip


Report •

#17
January 4, 2009 at 13:48:10
skip, why are you giving me 2 values for each ?

othehill, i am letting the board decide the multiplier by having removed all the jumpers on that section. however, i MUST choose fsb, i can't remove those . can i ???those didn't come in there from factory? they're all blue (the caps), on all three mobos of the asrock same model. and they're not all from the same source. so i think the FSB has to be set. so then why did skip .. oh damn I got it.
1&2. 166/333 means on proc1 use 166, proc 2 use 333 ? doesn't look right. proc1 is the sempron, i have it on 333.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#18
January 4, 2009 at 14:07:53
Like jam said in response 9; it's the same value.

"Notice how they refer to the bus speed as "100/200 MHz or 133/266 MHz". AMD "double pumps" the FSB. In other words, 200MHz FSB actually runs at 100MHz frequency, 266MHz FSB actually runs at 133MHz frequency."

Most motherboards ask for 100/133/166/200 Mhz when setting up the processor. If the instructions for your board ask for 200/266/333/400, that's fine too as long as you understand it's the same thing.

So:

1. AXP 2600+ = 166(333)x11.5 = 1917Mhz
2. Sempron 2200+ = 166(333)x9.0 = 1500Mhz
3. AXP 1800+ = 133(266)x11.5 = 1533Mhz
4. AXP 1700+ = 133(266)x11.0 = 1467Mhz
5. Duron 1200 = 100(200)x12.0 = 1200Mhz

Skip


Report •

#19
January 4, 2009 at 14:56:11
"skip, why are you giving me 2 values for each ?"

I thought we had this straightened out in another thread? Skip explained it again.

You already know that your AXP 2600+ runs at 11.5 x 166MHz. You also know that AMD double pumps the FSB. So if you don't see a setting for 166MHz, then look for 333MHz...they're the same thing. 166MHz is the actual speed, 333MHz is bogus/fictitious/imaginary/theoretical, whichever you prefer to call it. Notice that your CPU does NOT run at 5.75 x 333MHz.

If this is that difficult for you to grasp, you'd better stay away from Intel systems with their quad-pumped FSB...lol.

One thing to add that I don't think was touched on - socket A systems perform best when the FSB:DRAM ratio is 1:1. I haven't seem any mention of which RAM you have but just so you know, if you have a 166MHz/333FSB CPU, you should be using DDR333 RAM. If you have a 133MHz/266FSB CPU, you should use PC133 or DDR266.


Report •

#20
January 4, 2009 at 22:52:35
jesus. i see it so clearly now. grasping was a huge problem. when i last posted i hadn't slept for over 60hrs. i now woke up and i'm clearheaded. i'ma drive wifey 2 work and kid to kgarten then go get some fresh thermal paste and come back here to have my coffee and set these up :)

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#21
January 5, 2009 at 02:53:25
1. AXP 2600+ and 3. AXP 1800+ are both dead. The Sempron works fine at 333fsb. i'm not messing with the durons yet, i'm afraid they're busted and may affect the mobo. i'll try them on the other mobo the k7som+ later.

now about the ram used on the asrock 333fsb with the sempron cpu, i used ddr400 ram, elixir pc3200-ddr400.
jam, you said "if you have a 166MHz/333FSB CPU, you should be using DDR333 RAM"
ddr333? i don't have any. i have some ddr 266 128mb sticks, and the elixirs ddr400. well?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#22
January 5, 2009 at 03:16:33
ok i booted into bios, and it sees the elixir ddr400 as DDR1 : 256mb / 166mhz / ddr333 so then i guess it's okay as you said it above. thank you.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#23
January 5, 2009 at 03:20:02
lol i'm dumb there's an option in the advanced setup in bios, i can set the ram to ddr400, i guess it would be the wiser thing, so i can take full advantage of it, right ?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#24
January 5, 2009 at 04:32:47
now.. out of the three asrock k7vt4apro mobos, two work and one does not. i'm gonna post the problem here being a hardware discussion, and hope that someone can hint at the defect.

i first put in a good asrock, with ram+video+psu and made sure all these were OK. then I took it out, and slid in the case the bad asrock. used the same components, cleared cmos, replaced cmos battery, and then i plugged in the power cable into the psu. the board started without me pressing power on the case. i then took out the pwr switch from the mobo, and re-plugged it in. same thing, the mobo starts without any ON signal from me. the psu fan runs, the cpu fan runs, i hear no beeps, and even if i short the pwrbtn connectors for 15 seconds, it won't turn off. all the jumpers on it were set as on the working mobo. i checked the capacitors appearance, they look fine, no swells or leaks visible to the normal eye. any suggestions?

can it be from the bios? maybe someone tried flashing it and didn't do it right? would a problem like that keep the board powered ON ? but not POST-ing ?

and if that were the case, i wonder if I can lend this board a bios chip from the other two asrocks? i need to mention that a few characters differ on the bios chip label, and i'll list them as well as the other things that differ now:


next to the audio outputs, the three colored combo, there's a brown encasing with a black chip slid into it(looks removable), i'm assuming this is the bios chip. it reads :

k7vt4a pro p1.50 - non-working mobo
k7vt4a pro p1.40-9B - working mobo1
k7vt4a pro p1.30-8A - working mobo2

between the bios chip and the first pci slot, there's a black chip soldered on the board, it reads:

-winbond w83697hf - 447l5b24393010ub - non-working mobo
-paper label over, can only see the winbond logo under it, and it reads 80-mxa 1x0-a21 02-a21 e80-550126-1 03359 - working mobo1
-paper label over, can only see the winbond logo under it, and it reads 80-mxa 1x0-a21 02-a21 e80-550027-2 01854 - working mobo2

there's also a black 'box' it may be a cover for an onboard chip, right behind the usb+usb+LAN outputs.
-a logo looking like.. LB 16pt8515-4 0444s - non-working mobo
-no logo, TAIMAG he-012d 0520b - working mobo1
-a logo looking like.. LB 16pt8515-4 0520L - working mobo2

the last difference is consisted of the different sticker labels on the pink serial port:
- id=000b6ab61a53 4cm4wb6589 - non working mobo
- id=00138f070c40 55m1w73834 - working mobo1
- id=00b6aef8854 55m1xd5689 - working mobo2

okay, some of these numbers may be simply serial numbers for the products, i don't know which. others may indicate whether or not i can change a bios chip from one to another mobo.

and is there a point in trying that? i heard it's called hotswapping ? i know nothing about it.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#25
January 5, 2009 at 05:11:15
"i can set the ram to ddr400, i guess it would be the wiser thing, so i can take full advantage of it, right ?"

No, like I said, 1:1 ratio will give you the best performance. Running the CPU at 333MHz FSB & the RAM at 400MHz DDR will degrade performance. Set the RAM as DDR333 regardless of the fact that it's DDR400.

When you're testing these boards, are you swapping them in & out of the case each time? Why? Just benchtest them. They don't need to be in the case. Just lay the board on the table on a piece of cardboard, install the CPU w/HSF, one stick of RAM, video card & keyboard. You don't need anything else...the mouse is unnecessary & make sure to use a PS/2 keyboard, do NOT use USB. If you don't have a loose PSU that you can use for testing, just position the case close by so you can connect the power & the power switch. Here's an example:

http://www.mechbgon.com/build/bench...


Report •

#26
January 5, 2009 at 06:14:32
you know what man, i was doing just that until 4 days ago. had the mobo on special antistatic sponge, spare psu next to it, and ps2 mouse as you said. then while testing the k7vmm, i was using an agp card nvidia 64mb something, and when i plugged in the monitor, i saw a few feedback sparks around the plug. that usually means no proper grounding if i remember correctly. needless to say, dumb as i am at times, i went on with the boot test, and though nothing burned luckily, i felt a shock in my hand while touching the usb ports cover, the metallic shhetmetal there. so i figured i'm better off placing mobos in a huge case i got and screwing in one screw for proper ground to the case. then i also thought, maybe the psu was faulty and doesnt put out full ground, and replaced it. which do you think it was, a bad psu, or unproper grounding?

ps - i dont use/have a grounding strap i never seen one.

ps2 - i live in romania now, no longer in nyc, they use 220V here, and grounding is much more important.

ps3 - a psu used with the nobler 110v uk and usa use, lasts 30% longer timewise than a psu used with the selector on 220v.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#27
January 5, 2009 at 06:57:44
and i forgot to thank you for the ddram 333 vs. 400 setting, thank you. would it be better if i used ddram333 sticks if i can get them, and keep the ddr400's for systems that can use it all ?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#28
January 5, 2009 at 07:14:49
Worry about the future when it becomes the present.

Grounding shouldn't be an issue but if it is you could just use a jumper from the PSU case to the motherboard at a point where mounting screws penetrate the board.

Perhaps you need to check your internal AC wiring for faults. Your neutral may not be functioning.


Report •

#29
January 5, 2009 at 07:15:20
jam, i wonder if what you said about the 1:1 ratio is valid for all systems? quoting you "One thing to add that I don't think was touched on - socket A systems perform best when the FSB:DRAM ratio is 1:1". What about my system?

I have a pentium D 2.80 and I'm using 2gb of ram. kingston.. i'll have to pull one out and read the specs if you answer that the ratio matters in my case too. and my daughter's p4?

I miss my Dell xps i swear.. dual 3.20 2gb ram and everything matched by dell. well, i'm beginning to think it's actually much better to KNOW it's all matched right and do it myself after i gather all the knowledge needed. i'm gonna go back to the us after the next xmas, europe is tiring me out :)

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#30
January 5, 2009 at 07:21:29
onthehill, how do i check the neutral in my wallsockets? i have a testlamp and i also have a fullfetch digital tester.. the cool type that 'feels' voltage thru that arch.. and sorry for the off-topic post

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#31
January 5, 2009 at 07:28:29
Do you receptacles (wall outlets) have two contacts or three?

Report •

#32
January 5, 2009 at 07:51:05
"i wonder if what you said about the 1:1 ratio is valid for all systems?"

1:1 is the "rule" for all systems except the P4 (& it derivatives) & AMD systems since the socket A.

The P4 & it's netburst architecture is very inefficient...it performs best with the RAM frequency faster than the CPU frequency. Generally either 3:4 or 4:5 ratio depending on the situation. For instance, an 800MHz FSB P4 (which runs at 200MHz "quad-pumped") should be paired up with DDR2-533 (which runs at 266MHz). That would put the ratio at 200:266, which is 3:4.

AMD systems since the socket A don't use a FSB so there's nothing to stay in sync with. Basically, you just run the RAM as fast as possible.


Report •

#33
January 5, 2009 at 07:58:35
i figured it out.. i tested the wall outlets and the neutral is fine. it shows 224v when coupled to the null and that definitely means they're okay. so i guess that psu i was using lost ground to its own casing OR the cable connectors were bad or not pushed in all the way. thanks for the suggestion at least i know i'm good on that.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#34
January 5, 2009 at 08:01:49
on my 'Response Number 24' issue, any suggestions?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#35
January 5, 2009 at 09:06:24
The Winbond chips that you mentioned are for hardware monitoring...voltages, temps, RPM's, etc.

I believe the other chips you mentioned (TAIMAG & LB) are for the LAN.

Are you looking for the BIOS chip? It's the chip in the brown socket, just behind & to the left of the audio ports. Unless you have a chip puller, I wouldn't mess with it. Double check the ClearCMOS jumper. The jumper is just behind the battery, between the PCI slots. There should NOT be a cap on the pins.


Report •

#36
January 5, 2009 at 11:02:16
i know everything about the asrock i have its manual. i fixed the first two, and i can't fix this third one. jam, may I ask, what is your occupation, in relation to pc-it ? dude, you have lots of knowledge. i mean i was just asking myself 'how the hell does he know where the cmos jumper is on the asrocks?" or did you dl the manual like i did?

anyways so getting back to the issue, there is a problem with that mobo. it's not the kind of problem that can be rid of by moving jumpers around. i have the multiplier jumpers set to auto (no jumpers), i have the fsb on 333, and the cmos jumper off. there are two jumpers next to the battery, those are for the sound (for front panel in-out-back in type stuff).. and there's the wake on usb jumper up by the cpu. i've used the same cpu+ram+agp radeon 9250+psu. no go. board acts like it's started, but i get no image, and no beeps.

-what you can ask yourself, is this behavior possible by cause of bios?
-is this how a wrongly flashed bios would make the board react? turn ON without shorting the power pins?
-OR is this an electronic problem? i've looked at all the caps over and over. i've vacuumed the board lightly as i usually do anything that friends bring in here for setting up, i don't risk roach eggs in my home or short-circuiting boards because of dust and humidity.
-is there anything i can test for? electronically i'm asking. connectivity, continuity, i have the means man. and i know how to. i know how to measure farads ohms amps, whatever. it's just that some of these things can't be measured with the piece soldered onto the board, so i'd have to solder it out. i can do that for caps and larger stuff, but i definitely don't have the means to unsolder a microchip, and it would make no sense anyway, because where the fk am I gonna get a replacement part? but I CAN replace any transistor with normal values, capacitor, resistor, etc. electronic. me can do. :) i have a cen-tech dt-266 clamp meter with the 261 insulation tester option. dcv, acv,aca,ohm. if i think back to high school hard enough, i'll even remember how to test the two commontype diodes. germanic and.. the other type :) i went to George Westinghouse vocational tech HS, and we did a whole 4 yrs of electrical/electronic shop. and i loved it and i still use that knowledge. i fix what i can :)

The other day, a LED from my car radio face went out, it was a pretty big one for backlight illum. and my radio was looking halfdead with half the display dark. u know i went and opened that thing up and replaced the led :D tiny b---tard that led it was covered in a little rubber sock like a condom, for color. so anyway, i'm just stating that i'm ale to mess with SOME parts on that board if you advise it or hint at possible reasons it's not working :)

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#37
January 5, 2009 at 13:07:34
Ask yourself why these boards are available. Are they pulls? You act surprised the board won't POST. Other than the obvious reason of something connected wrong, the only thing I can think of is the BIOS version may not support the chip you are testing. Did you try one of the Durons?

Going back to why the board is available the system may have died and no one felt like troubleshooting. A common cause of MBoard failure is a PSU going out and taking the board with it. Did you examine the capacitors? Look for bulging tops or leaking electrolyte. The ram slots you are trying may be dead. Try POSTing without any RAM. If you have a speaker connected or there is one built onto the board you should get an audible error without RAM. Same goes for a Video card. If you try both those items the only thing besides the board that will stop a POST is the processor. If you are using a known good one then you have eliminated all but the board.


Report •

#38
January 7, 2009 at 16:36:07
hi people. all mobos are in working order now, aside from the epox. the asrock had a bad capacitor replaced, one of the 6.3v ones, put in a 10v one. also a bios swap with the third asrock turned on. uniflash gave me trouble, managed with some strong help from a 50yr old electronics guy who turned mobo hobbyist :)

while in his workshop, i picked up some more socket A cpu's to finish up all these boards and turn them into systems.

Athlon XP 2600+
AMD Sempron 2200+
AMD Duron 1300
AMD Duron 1200
AMD Athlon 800

Above, i'm hoping i listed them in decreasing value. if i'm wrong i beg to be corrected. are cpu's to be judged by their mhz ultimately? or am I supposed to worry about the name of the cpu as well? sempron is in anyway better as a concept than athlon or athlon xp?


athlon 800 :
Level 1 cache size 2-way set associative 64 KB code
2-way set associative 64 KB data
Level 2 cache size Full-speed on-die 256 KB


AMD Duron 1200:
Level 1 cache size 64 KB code
64 KB data
Level 2 cache size on-die 64 KB exclusive cache


so the 1200mhz duron has LESS level 2 cache than the athlon running at 800mhz ??

i don't see how and why. and after all, which is the faster cpu ?

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •

#39
January 8, 2009 at 14:41:37
all of the above are socket A btw, 462 that is.

I always say it's best to doublecheck.


Report •


Ask Question