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My moniter won't turn on at boot up.

August 14, 2009 at 11:29:48
Specs: Windows XP 32-bit, Pentium D 805 2.66Ghz/2GB 533Mhz

ok. basically i bought a new GPU (ATI AGPx8 HD4650 1GBddr2) and so i cleaned out my case and mboard an put in my GPU, reconnected evrything and switched on my PC and my computer was stuck on the bios screen. i tried putting in my old GPU and trying the interagrated GPU, but nothing i then went across the road to ask a naighboor about it and when we arrived back at my house, my screen had turned off. and there was a wired smell coming from my pc.

i turned on my PC but it woudnt even power up. so i reset my lithium battery, let it coold down and turned it back on. but my screen would not come on. it was not displaying the the message "no signal input" so it new it was plugged in, it just woudnt start... so i tryed alternating all my GPU's but nothing...

i tryed swapping my RAM, using another moniter, bought a New CPU FAN, but still ntohing. i then bought a 700w power supply and still nothing. im 15 so money is hard to come across i have £50 left so i can either get a new mboard or new proceccor.

when my screen was getting stuck on the BIOS screen is was readin my CPU but then when i tured off and that wierd smell came across it could of been either my mboard or my CPU that burned out. i have no were to test my CPU so i really need your help.


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#1
August 14, 2009 at 12:19:05

If you smelled something weird from your PC, I'd think something is fried. That's all I'd know, I'm having troubles of my own :/

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#2
August 14, 2009 at 12:55:26

When your system isn't working properly, or if you have connected to a non working video port, any message you see on the monitor is often generated by the monitor itself, a short time after it detects the computer is not producing video from the port it's connected to . It often displays the same message when the monitor is on but it's video cable isn't connected to a monitor port at all.

We need you to state which make and model of brand name system you have - that's usually printed on a label on the outside of the case somewhere, or can be determined on the brand name builder's web site -
, or which make and model of the desktop motherboard you have - that's usually printed on the surface of the mboard in larger characters, or at least the model, often between slots or in the middle of the mboard,
or in some cases there's a logo (graphical) screen that is shown while booting that has the make and model shown on it.

e.g.
- most mboards automatically disable the onboard video when you install a graphics card in a PCI-E slot - the card in the slot produces video when you have connected a monitor to it - the onboard video port does not.
- SOME recent mboards do NOT automatically disable the onboard video when you install a graphics card in a PCI-E slot AND the card in the PCI-E slot produces no video. You have to connect a monitor to the onboard video, and go into the bios and set Intialize Video First, or Primary Vodeo, or similar to PCI-E, save settings, reboot. THEN the PCI-E card in the slot will produce video.

In any case.....

- Your 4650 graphics card probably has an extra socket on it that MUST be connected to a connector and wiring that comes from the power supply, or to a wiring adapter (the card may havecome with it) that connects to a connector and wiring that comes from the power supply.
If that's not connected you'll get no video.

- Your computer power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD!)
You can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements.

That minimum PS capacity in this case is a lot less than 700 watts - that will handle TWO of the cards you're using with capscity to spare - but it may be more than the original PS capacity.

If you don't know what the present power supply capacity of the original or the installed PS is, that's often stated on a label on the (original) power supply. Sometimes it's not on a side where you can see it and you have to remove the PS to find the label.

- make sure you haven't knocked something loose or have forgotten to re-connect something while installing the card.

Unplug the case/power supply.
Power off your monitor.
Open up the case by removing the left panel as seen when you're looking at the front of the case.
Check all the connections of the wiring to make sure they are all the way onto their pins and into their sockets, especially the main connector from the power supply. The wires close to the mboard going into the main power connector/socket should be more or less perpendicular to the mboard surface rather than at an angle. Make sure all cards in slots are all the way down in their slots.

See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

Consult the User manual for your brand name system, or the manual for your desktop mboard if you need to.


" my screen had turned off. and there was a wired smell coming from my pc."
"i turned on my PC but it woudnt even power up. so i reset my lithium battery, let it coold down and turned it back on. but my screen would not come on. it was not displaying the the message "no signal input" so it new it was plugged in, it just woudnt start... so i tryed alternating all my GPU's but nothing... "

Assuming you didn't install the ram BACKWARDS in it's slot(s), which will cause a smell and probably cause the computer to not boot, this is the most likely cause .....

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your original PS.
See response 4 in this:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

If the orginal power supply did NOT have enough capacity for when the 4650 was installed on the system, the system often still works after you have first plugged in the graphics card, but the PS is overloaded 100% of the time the computer is running and eventually malfunctions and fails. The smell may have come from the power supply having fried, and it failing is the reason the computer would not boot.

Unfortunately, whether a power supply that is malfunctioning or fails completely damages something else while failing is random. Better brands/models of power supplies are a lot less likely to damage something else, but some el-cheapo models are well known to be a lot more likely to do that.
E.g. BESTEC is a BAD one - it often damages the mboard when it fails completely.
What is the make and model of the original power supply??

If the power supply failing has damaged the mboard, it won't boot when you connect a replacement power supply . In that case, usually the ram, cpu, cards in slots, and the hard drive(s) and other drives is (are) okay, but sometimesthe CD or DVD drives, or the floppy drive if you have one, and, rarely, cards in slots, are damaged too.

However, NOTE that
- most mboards have an extra power socket that MUST be connected to the power supply with a connector and wiring for that, in addition to the main 20 or 24 "pin" one. Make sure when you connect another PS that you have the PS plugged into that, if it hasthat, or the mboard will probably not boot.
- Your 4650 graphics card probably has an extra socket on it that MUST be connected to a connector and wiring that comes from the power supply, or to a wiring adapter (the card may havecome with it) that connects to a connector and wiring that comes from the power supply.
If that's not connected you'll get no video.

- " i tryed swapping my RAM"

You may have installed the wrong ram.

Install the ram that was in it before, if you know which modules were in it before. Theres's probably nothing wrong with it.

Ram that works in another mboard , or any ram you buy or have lying around, may not work properly, or sometimes, not at all - even if it physically fits and is the right overall type (e.g. SDram, DDR, DDR2, etc.; PCxxxx, xxx mhz) for your mboard. In the worst cases of incompatibilty your mboard WILL NOT BOOT all the way with it installed, and the mboard may not even beep - the ram has to be compatible with the mboard's main chipset, or in the case of recent mboards, compatible with the memory controller built into the cpu.

If you still have the ram that was installed when the system worked fine, try installing just that ram.


See response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
Correction to that:
Mushkin www.mushkin.com

Once you know which module ID strings work in your mboard, you can get them from anywhere you like that has ram with those ID strings.

If you have brand name ram, it is usually easy to look up whether it's ID string is in a list of compatible modules found by using your mboard or brand name system model number.
If the ram is generic, that may be difficult or impossible.
......

It is easy to test for incompatible ram that has caused your mboard to fail to boot.

Make sure you have a speaker or speakers or the equivalent connected to the mboard so you can hear mboard beeps (see your mboard manual if you need to).
Remove the AC power to the case/power supply.
Remove all the ram.
Restore AC power.
Try to boot.
If nothing else is wrong, you will get no video but you will hear a pattern of beeps that indicate no ram is installed, or a ram problem.
E.g. for an Award bios or a bios based on one, that's often a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.
........

If you get the computer to boot....

If you do a ram test, do that AFTER having tried cleaning the contacts and making sure the ram is seated properly - otherwise any errors found may be FALSE.
If the ram is incompatible with the chipset, or on more recent computers, incompatible with the memory controller built into the cpu, it will likely FAIL a ram test - that is NOT a true indication of the ram being faulty - there is probably nothing wrong with it, and it will pass the test if installed in a mboard it is compatible with.
If a ram test DOES find errors, if you have more than one module installed, try the test with one module at a time - sometimes they won't work properly when more than one is installed, but it will pass when by itself.


If you want to try a memory diagnostic utility that takes a lot less time to run a full pass than memtest86 does, this one is pretty good - Microsoft's
Windows Memory Diagnostic:
http://oca.microsoft.com/en/windiag...
It can be toggled (press T) to do a standard or a more comprehensive set of tests - use the default 6 test one first - if it passes one pass of that, use the latter one. A few of the tests in the latter set are intentionally slower.
If you don't have a floppy drive, see the Quick Start Information at that Microsoft link for how to make a bootable CD of the Windows Memory Diagnostic (you need Windiag.iso - you don't necessarily need to use the program they mention to add it to the CD).
..........

If the cpu fan does not spin, or if does spin but the 3 or 4 wire cpu fan connector (or some other 3 wire fan connector) is not connected to the 3 or 4 pin cpu fan header, most recent or fairly recent mboards will not boot, or will boot but the mboard will shut off in a very short time when no rpm has been detected.
However, if the cpu fan is not spinning and the computer is also not working normally, the cpu fan not spinning doesn't necessarily indicate there's anything wrong with it. Fans CAN be damaged, but usually they're NOT damaged - in that case the fan will work when it's connected to a mboard on a working system. 4 wire fans will work if you plug them into a 3 pin header when it's been installed on the right 3 pins, and 3 wire fans will work when installed on a 4 pin header if it's been installed on the right 3 pins (there is often a slot on the fan wiring connector that lines up with a tab beside the fan header on the mboard that allows it to go on only one way on the right pins).

Clearing the cmos by moving a jumper on the mboard, moving it back, or removing the cmos battery on the mboard and then installing it again will NOT make a mboard that is not booting boot again.
A dead mboard battery, or no battery, will NOT cause the computer to not boot.
The battery polarity must be correct e.g. - if it's flat in the mboard + must be upwards where you can see it - but the mboard will still boot even if that's wrong, if nothing else is wrong.
If you Clear the cmos by moving a jumper on the mboard, and then DON'T move it back, that CAN cause the mboard to not boot in any case!


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#3
August 14, 2009 at 13:59:14

...wow... i can see you have taken the time to answer my question...but i'm not THAT stupid.....well mye i am because my pc is broke...but fist of all:

"- most mboards automatically disable the onboard video when you install a graphics card in a PCI-E slot - the card in the slot produces video when you have connected a monitor to it - the onboard video port does not.
- SOME recent mboards do NOT automatically disable the onboard video when you install a graphics card in a PCI-E slot AND the card in the PCI-E slot produces no video. You have to connect a monitor to the onboard video, and go into the bios and set Intialize Video First, or Primary Vodeo, or similar to PCI-E, save settings, reboot. THEN the PCI-E card in the slot will produce video."

my card is AGP...

"Assuming you didn't install the ram BACKWARDS in it's slot(s), which will cause a smell and probably cause the computer to not boot, this is the most likely cause ....."

well like i stated im using DDR2, i dont know if youve tryed to install that backwards but from what i know it doesnt physically fit. lol. youre making me out to be a retard (well like i siad MY pc is broke so myber i am^^)

"- " i tryed swapping my RAM"

You may have installed the wrong ram.

Install the ram that was in it before, if you know which modules were in it before. Theres's probably nothing wrong with it. "

lol the reason i siad i swapped my RAM is because i thought i did....why else would you swap them, i tryed the one that was origannly in my pc and the bran new RAM i just bought (btw they were both 533Mhz)

and sorry i didnt name my last PSU here it is:
ISO-400pp
AC INPUT: 230v, 4a, 47-63Hz
MAX POWER INPUT: 300w
thats why i need another on because my GPU needed 400w min. but i got impatient and tryed it with a 300w PS.

and for my mother mboard:
FOXCONN P4M800M01-6LRS2

and my new power supply is 20+4pin

also could there be a problem with my CPU?


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Related Solutions

#4
August 14, 2009 at 15:06:42

Of course, we have no idea what your level of expertise is unless you specifically say so, and even then people often overate that. Most young people I know, know how to use a computer well but don't know much about it's hardware or what they need to troubleshoot if the computer isn't working properly .

The same applies to AGP cards, although they're less likely to need the extra power connection - a 4650 probably requires that though.

You CAN install ram in the slot backwards but it won't go all the way down in it's slot because the bump(s) in the slot then doesn't line up with the notch(es) in the module - at least one latch at the end of the slot that ram is in will not latch easily, but some people have forced the ram down to make it latch on both ends. The backwards ram module will connect well enough that when you power the computer and boot, the backwards module is instantly fried, a smell and often smoke is prodiced, and the ram slot it's in is damaged and can never be used again. Sometimes the mboard will boot after you clean the damaged ram slot of melted plastic and carbon, sometimes it won't, when you install good ram in other ram slots.

Swapping ram is a thing people frequently try when a computer isn't working properly. 99% of the time there's nothing wrong with ram that worked fine previously, and the ram you install may not be comptible even when they think it should be. Not all DDR2 ram will work in your mboard properly, although that's less likely than with other ram types.

Looks like the orginal PS is an el-cheapo but I'm not familar with the brand.

"MAX POWER INPUT: 300w"

PSs are NOT 100% efficient - the capacity I'm talking of is the max OUTPUT. All PSs have a max output rating on the label somewhere.
If that's actually the input rating, your PS ouput rating is probably 250 watts or less.

"...my GPU needed 400w min. but i got impatient and tryed it with a 300w PS."

You're correct - the 4650 AGP needs a minumum 400 watts.
The original PS puts out less than 300 watts if your specs are correct.

I suspect you have paid the price for your impatience - the most likely thing is you have probably fried the mboard .

If it's any consulation, there's a very good chance, say 90%, that if you replace the mboard with one that's compatible with your ram and cpu, your system will probably work fine.

If you have access to and can fiddle with another working desktop computer, you can check your drives connected to that - don't boot from your hard drive on the other computer - don't connect only your hard drive to the other computer - connect it as a slave or just don't have it set first in the boot order in the bios on the other computer. If you boot your hard drive XP will not load all the way if the mboards are significantly different - that's normal - if it does boot it will load settings for the other mboard - you want to just test whether it's files are still there, and/or you can also test your hard drive with a hard drive diagnostic program. (If there is only "hard drive" in the boot order , when more than one hard drive is connected, most bioses have a list of hard drives near the boot order where you can change the order of detected hard drives - the one you want to boot from must be first in the list - don't make that your drive model.)

"also could there be a problem with my CPU?"

That's possible in theory, and that's often what people think is the problem, but that's almost always still okay, according to my experience and to what info I've seen in posts on the web.

If the ram is brand name ram, you could test it with a ram diagnostic test in a working system, but that's ONLY valid, if when you look up ram on the module manufacturer's web site for the other mboard model or brand name system model, the modules you're testing are listed for the other mboard.



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#5
August 14, 2009 at 15:26:15

yh sorry i was very angry at the time, i have been stressing really bad over my comp ive been messing with it for weeks... i do apolagise i do apreciate the time you 2 have both spent on me and i would like to say thankyou.

i guess im gonn have to pay out for a new motherboard


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#6
August 14, 2009 at 15:55:55

"and so i cleaned out my case and mboard an put in my GPU"

Did you use a vacuum cleaner on the computer?


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#7
August 14, 2009 at 16:16:07

yes lol >.<

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#8
August 14, 2009 at 16:27:07

"Did you use a vacuum cleaner on the computer?"

Never use a vaccum cleaner inside your computer case (unless it's a special one meant to be used with computers and electronic components) - they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity and can discharge that to your computer case or to anything inside it if you touch any part connected to the vaccum to something, or even if a part connected to the vacuum is just close to something - unless you can connect it to BLOW at the computer without you touching any part connected to the vaccum to something. Use canned air made for that purpose, or blow it off with an air nozzle connected to an air compressor, or use small artists brushes, etc., etc.
Some say you can use a regular vacuum if you leave the PS plugged into AC since the cord is grounded as long as it's plugged in even if it's plugged into a power bar that's off, but that's not 100% reliable.
Static electricity can destroy any electroinc components including the integrated chips, ram and cpu.


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