my cd drive is stuck - how do I open it?

March 14, 2011 at 13:18:38
Specs: Windows Vista
my cd drive is stuck - how do I open it?

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#1
March 14, 2011 at 13:40:04
This should work even when the drive has no power to it...
There is a tiny hole in the front of it. Use a stiff wire (e.g. an un-bent paper clip) or similar that is long enough in the hole - insert it straight in and push to release the tray's latch, then you can pull out the tray manually.
If that doesn't work something inside the drive is broken and/or jammed and you may need to dis-assemble the drive.

Which is it - is it a desktop or laptop or USB drive ?


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#2
March 14, 2011 at 15:53:05
Tray successfully opened - thanks. No cd stuck inside to explain problem. Tried to play a cd but nothing happened. So what now? It's a desk top by the way.


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#3
March 14, 2011 at 16:44:16
"Tried to play a cd but nothing happened."

What do mean by that ?
It doesn't play or autorun the disk, or it doesn't recognize any disk is there ?

Autoplay or autorun can be "broken" in Windows and yet you can click on files on the disk in My Computer or Windows Explorer and they will play or run fine.
(Sometimes you can only do that in Windows Explorer - All Programs - Accessories - Windows Explorer - open up My Computer - click once on the CD or DVD drive the disk is in.)


"It's a desk top by the way."

There is a small rubber belt just inside the front of the drive that can slip or break and that will prevent the tray mechanism from ejecting or retracting, but usually that doesn't happen until the drive is many years old. You can see it when there is no disk on the tray below the tray through the holes in the tray.

Rarely, the plastic cone or whatever that holds down the disk while it's spinning can break loose. That can get in the wrong place and jam a disk and prevent it from spinning. I have fixed several drives with that problem by removing the drive and removing the top cover from the drive and gluing that accurately in the place it's supposed to be, with epoxy glue.

If the drive has been used a lot ........

The most common cause of CD drive death is the spindle motor has seized, or is spinning so slowly the circuit board on the CD drive, or Windows, "thinks" there is no cd.

To check for this, insert a CD in the drive, and note its position. Close drive. Try to access the drive. The led should turn on. Eject the cd after led has gone out - if the cd is still in the same place, the motor is seized.
Alternately, with computer on, insert a cd into the drive, noting its position - when the cd is inside the drive, the led should come on - give it a bit of time, then eject it - if the cd is still in the same place, the motor is seized.

If the CD has moved, but the computer still doesn't find it, it may be spinning too slowly. The only way you can check for this is to remove the CD drive, take the top cover off, then connect the drive and attempt to access the CD, and watch how fast the cd spins - if it takes a while to start spinning, and/or spins very slow, the motor will soon seize. You could also remove enough hardware above the cd spindle so you can attempt to spin the cd with your finger, place a cd on the spindle (be careful - there will be nothing to hold down the cd), attempt to access the CD, and gingerly try spinning the cd faster with your finger, then let go - it may then acheive its proper speed - it may then be recognized.

If your CD does not spin, or spins too slowly, it's time to get another CD drive. I have never seen a CD spindle motor that has ball bearings - they all seem to have sleeve bearings. You MAY be able to get it to run for a short while by removing or getting access to the motor and oiling it, but it is a waste of time - it will seize again (been there, done that - the oil improved the situation, but was not enough).
........

Other things that can cause the bios while booting and Windows to not detect a disk in the drive....

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.

80 wire data cables must have the proper end connector connected to the mboard IDE header - usually that's blue, but in any case it's the one farther from the middle connector on a 3 connector data cable.


Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.


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#4
March 14, 2011 at 17:04:01
wow - my head is spinning with all that information. I shall try a few of your ideas tomorrow before I go out and buy a new drive. But could it be a software problem?

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#5
March 14, 2011 at 20:23:17
All that is required is for the drive to have +5v and +12v power (+5v only for a laptop or "portable" USB optical drive) and the computer to be running for these things to work if there is nothing wrong with the drive....

- the drive should open and close it's tray when you press the button for that on the front of the drive, and the led on the front of it should light up briefly when you do that, when there is no disk on the tray. (If the belt inside the drive is stetched or broken, the led should still come on, you should still hear the motor spin that is supposed to make the ejection mechanism work.)

- when you insert a disk and close it's tray, if the disk has data on it the led should light up for a longer time. The disk and the drive's motor should spin in any case, at least for a short time.


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#6
March 15, 2011 at 12:51:39
OK - when I press the button no light and the tray doesn't open. I get it open with wire and see that rubber band is unbroken, ratchet is turning when I push it back and forwards. I put a disc into tray, push it in and pull it back. It hasn't changed position. When a disc is in the tray and pushed in, I check to find that the computer is asking me to put the disc in. It seems to me that the drive motor has seized or there is no communication between the computer and the drive.

I haven't tried to remove the drive etc.. - that would be way beyond my abilities.

It looks like I need to get it along to a computer shop and let them sort it out. I shall let you know what the problem was. Thanks anyway for all the trouble you have gone to trying to fix my problem.


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#7
March 15, 2011 at 14:28:06
"when I press the button no light and the tray doesn't open.I get it open with wire and see that rubber band is unbroken, ratchet is turning when I push it back and forwards."

Either it's circuit board is fried or it's not getting power.

"I put a disc into tray, push it in and pull it back. It hasn't changed position."

The motor's not spinning, probably because the circuit board is fried or it's not getting power.

"When a disc is in the tray and pushed in, I check to find that the computer is asking me to put the disc in."

That's odd.The drive must be getting some of it's power.

"It seems to me that the drive motor has seized......"

If the motor was seized the led would still light up when you pressed the button for ejecting / retracting the tray if nothing else was wrong.


""When a disc is in the tray and pushed in, I check to find that the computer is asking me to put the disc in."
"or there is no communication between the computer and the drive."

There's some communication but not enough
.......

You could
- remove the AC power to the case and open up the case and make sure there is a power connector inserted all the way into the drive socket or try another power connector in the socket.

- go into the bios Setup and look at the current voltage readings - what is supposed to be +3.3v, +5v, and +12v should be within 10% of the nominal values and are direct indicators of what the most important power supply voltages it is supposed to be putting out are.

Some newer power supply have more than one section on the board inside the power supply where +12v power is sourced from. Sometimes one of those sections malfunctions and is not putting out any +12v power. That can only be determined by using a voltmeter to measure the voltages at the ends of the power connectors.
The yellow wire is +12v D.C., red wire is +5v D.C., black wires are grounds ( - ) for either of the voltages.

If that's the problem with the power supply that may not show up in the bios current +12v readings, and the CD drive should work fine when connected to a different desktop computer.

"I haven't tried to remove the drive etc.. - that would be way beyond my abilities."

If you tell us which computer you have, some of them,e.g. Dell, HP, Compaq, Intel, have very good manuals you can examine.

Tell us the make and model of your brand name system, or if you have a generic desktop system, the make and model of the mboard.

The specific model of a brand name system is often shown on a label on the outside of the case somewhere, or it can often be determined by going to the brand name's web site and loading a program they have available, if Windows is still working, on the subject computer.

If it's a Dell computer...
Go here for how to find the Service tag "number":
http://support.dell.com/support/top...

Tell us what it is.

If it's a HP or Compaq computer.....
Go here:
http://partsurfer.hp.com/search.aspx
Scroll down a bit.
Look for the similar label on the outside of your computer.
Quote the specific model number - that's at the end of the first line.
Quote the Product number - that's on the third line.

The model, sometimes the make, of a mboard in a generic desktop system is usually printed on the mboard's surface in obvious larger characters, often between the slots.


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#8
March 15, 2011 at 16:47:01
It's a Hewlett-Packard Model SR219UK Intel(R) Core (TM)2 CPU 2.00 GB 32-bit OS.

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#9
March 15, 2011 at 19:18:20
"Hewlett-Packard Model SR219UK"

I found nothing for: SR219UK

There are supposed to be 4 numbers after SR - UK at the end indicates it's a UK model.

There is no HP SR2100 series.

I searched on the web for: HP SR2000 series

I found this...

Compaq Presario SR2000 Desktop PC series
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/uk/e...

Excerpts:

The following products are no longer for sale:

» Compaq Presario Media Center SR2029UK PC (RF785AA)

» Compaq Presario Media Center SR2019UK PC (RF786AA)

» Compaq Presario SR2009UK PC (RF787AA)
......

I clicked on Support and Drivers on the above page -

I'm guessing your model is .....

Compaq Presario Media Center SR2019UK Desktop PC (Home support page)
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...

Manuals
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...

Upgrading and Servicing Guide
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manua...



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#10
March 16, 2011 at 05:18:33
You're right - it is a Compaq Presario SR2000 (SR2129UK) Prod # RR501AA-ABU
S/N CZX707WB27

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#11
June 21, 2011 at 09:25:20
it is a desktop

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