Hello! I have a one year old system that has suddenly died completely on me. I have a warranty with the company I purchased it from and have just received a brand new power supply. I was convinced it was a problem with the power supply but the new one doesn't work either! Absolutely nothing happens when I try to turn on the machine. The machine died in the middle of the night, after running normally over the past year. Is there anything I can try before I send the whole thing back? I have taken out the graphics card and unplugged the DVD and hard drive. I connected both of the power connections, the 24 pin and the 4 pin, but no luck. I have also tried taking out the battery to the CMOS and putting it back in to reset it but no luck there either. Could it be so simple that this battery is dead and the motherboard can't send a signal to the power supply to start? Am I looking at a burned out/defective motherboard? I haven't found any posts anywhere related to this specific motherboard, I assume that if this was a common problem someone would have posted it somewhere... AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ 3.0 GHz Socket AM2 2MB 2048 MB DDR2 RAM Radeon HD 2600 XT 256 MB MSI K9AGM2-FIH Motherboard Seagate Barracuda 500GB Harddrive "Silver Power" 500W Power Supply Windows XP SP3 I have had the system since September 2007. I have posted my problem on a few other sites and have recieved following advice. Reseat the 24 pin atx connector, the molex connector, the cpu fan connector...any of these unseated could cause a similar problem. Are you certain a CPU/Heatsink leg didn't pop up? I also think it is power supply related, but you put another one in, so that takes some of the suspicion away from that issue. However, there are times in my shop when I have gotten a new one that is DOA, so we can't dismiss that altogether. Pull all the memory out and see if the board beeps at you. See if you can find a friend who will let you try his/her power supply in there to see if it will start. Take a paper clip and short across the two pins (remove the wire temporatily) that the off/on wire go to on the motherboard. Don't hold it on there, but just short across those two pins for an instant to see if the board turns on while plugged in. I have tried everything except switching out the power supply (I was going to try using the new power supply in an older machine to see if it works...) Anyone with some new suggestions?

Silly question but have you checked that the Kettle Lead Fuse is OK ??

Where would I find that? I have never heard of such a fuse. What does it look like?

Another silly question but have you verified there is power to the power supply? You know, blown fuse or powerstrip, etc. Are you getting any lights or fan activity on the board at all?

If you have a brand name system, what is it's make and model? .... "Silly question but have you checked that the Kettle Lead Fuse is OK ??" Power supply cords in the UK and Europe often have a fuse in the cord - it may have blown. However, if you used the cord that came with the new power supply, that couldn't be your problem. .... Is it possible the computer experienced a power outage or disturbance that caused a power spike or surge, and/or were there any lightning strikes in your area on that night? Is your computer and everything that plugs into AC power that connects to it, and the cable that connects it to the internet, plugged into something that protect against power spikes and surges? Lightning strikes can do random damage even if you do have such protection. ...... The one thing that can often not be made as well these days as they were in the past is the computer power supply - there are a lot of el-cheapo power supplies out there - they tend to fail more often, and when they do fail they are a lot more likely to damage the mboard or something connected to it. E.g. Emachines systems, and some other brand name systems, use BESTEC power supplies, and they are a lot more likely to fry the mboard when they fail completely. What is the make and model of the original power supply? Check your original PS for damage you can see. See response 4 in this: http://www.computing.net/hardware/w... If the original PS has fried the mboard, chances are very good replacing the mboard will cure your problem - usually the cpu, ram, cards in slots, and the drives are still okay. However, I've seen cases where the floppy drive, optical drives, cards in slots, and much less often the cpu, have been fried, in that order of frequency, and I've heard of cases where the hard drive has been fried, and of cases where the USB on the mboard has been fried but everything else on the mboard works. I've never seen a case where the ram was damaged, but that's possible. El-cheapo power supplies have as little as a 90 day warranty, some have a 1 year one. Better power supplies are warrantied for 3 years, or some have a liftime warranty. The warranty of any power supply only covers the replacement of the power supply itself - if it damaged something else while failing that's not covered. Some devices that protect against power spikes and surges have a warranty that covers damage to connected equipment, but - everything that plugs into AC power that connects to the computer, and the cable that connects it to the internet, must have been plugged into it - the warranty is void if you used an extension cord between the cord for the device and the AC source - if you have more that one such device, the warranty may not apply if they were not all made by the same manufacturer - you have to send the protection device and the damaged pieces somewhere, or have a report made by a local professional repair person, in order to validate your claim. ..... It is extremely rare for you to have any problem with the power swutch on the computer case, but on some cases it is possible for the button to get stuck so the power switch is always depressed, in which case , at best, the computer might start but shut down in about 4 seconds, depending on bios settings. Breifly shorting the two pins on the mboard for the power switch accomplishes the same thing as the power switch does - if everything is fine and it's just the switch that's no good, the computer should start up fine. If your case has a reset switch, it is the same type as the power switch on an ATX case (momentary contact - on only when pressed) - you can hook up the reset switch to the pins for the power switch, and visa versa. ...... If the ram works in another mboard that proves there's nothing with it, but if it doesn't, that doesn't necessary prove it's bad. The ram has to be compatible with the memory controller of the other mboard's chipset, or on some recent mboards, compatible with the memory controller built into the other mboard's cpu. If the ram doesn't work in the other mboard, it is a lot more likely it is incompatible with that mboard or cpu than it is actually bad, unless you can confirm the ram should work in the other mboard because it is on a list of modules compatible with it found by using your mboard model to search with on a ram manufacturer's or major distributor's web site. ..... In your case..... - the ram should work on any AM2 or AM2+ mboard because it's the cpu's built in memory controller it has to be cpmpatible with, and your cpu should work on any AM2 mboard that supports a 6000+ cpu (all but the earlier ones), or on any AM2+ mboard with 800mhz (PC6400) or a slower mhz DDR2 ram. - you could try the replacement PS, and the original PS if you see no damage, and your cards and drives, with another system. However, don't try to boot the other system with your hard drive that Windows boots from - you just want to confirm it works and the data is still there. The reason for that is, if the chipsets of the two mboards are more than a little different, XP will often not load in that case - typically you see the first bit of Windows graphics, then a black screen, blinking cursor top left, and nothing further happens - that's normal, and can be fixed, if you need to that, without you losing data. .....

Thanks for all the replies! I live in Sweden, and I am pretty sure that the fuse you refer to is not on my type of power cord. The original power supply was sent back to the distributer, so I can't check it for obvious damage, but it looked ok when I sent it back, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I don't remeber the name of the original power supply, the system was put together from seperate parts at the Swedish computer supply store, www.komplett.se, they have a good reputation for doing that, so it isn't a "package system". No unusual weather or lightning that night either (it was Halloween... but still.) I am getting NO power when I start it up, no fans/lights or anything. I have tried the go around with "shorting" the power switch but no luck there either. I have also disconnected everything, including memory, HDD, DVD, graphics card, still no power, no nothing. I am going to try lighting up an older computer that I have at home with the new power supply to make sure there is no problem with the new one.

A kettle lead is also known as a mains lead and they should have a fuse in the plug which plugs into the wall mains socket..