|"GIGABYTE P55-USB3 Mobo|
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB DDR3 1600"
G Skil does not list any modules that are compatible with your model.
"Flashed BIOS for Mobo."
Flashing the bios IS NOT A FIX - ALL !!
It's the riskiest thing you can do to a computer !
99 % of the time, doing that will NOT cure a problem you were NOT previously having with the bios version you had and the same CPU and ram installed !
If you flashed with a different bios version, flashing the bios usually does NOT load the contents of the Cmos for the changed bios version automatically !
To be sure the Cmos contents - what you see in the bios Setup screens - match the present bios version, you MUST either....
- load bios Defaults in the Bios Setup, Save settings
- or - clear the cmos by moving the jumper for that on the mboard, moving it back, while the AC power is disconnected to the computer.
or - remove the AC power to the computer, remove the cmos's mboard battery, re-install it, with the + on it where you can see it when it's installed.
For the two latter methods, you willl get a "Cmos Checksum Error" or similar message when you boot the next time. You must go into the bios and set at least the Date and Time, Save bios settings.
All three of those methods will load bios defaults that will clear any wrong settings you may have made and allow the hard drive to be correctly detected, assuming all drive connections are set to Auto detect drives by default, which is usually the situation .
If you have more than one hard drive, and at least one has no operating system on it, depending on which SATA header the bootable drive is connected to, or which header an IDE hard drive is connected to, and all drives are connected to the mboard, the default bios Boot Order or similar settings may NOT find a bootable hard drive partition - the bios will NOT check to see if partitions on other hard drives are bootable. In that case, you need to go into the bios and find the list of hard drives, that's often near the Boot Order or similar settings, or, less often, there is more than one hard drive listed in those Boot Order or similar settings, and make the hard drive that has the bootable partition that you want to boot from the first one in the list, Save bios settings.
If you're booting from a bootable drive connected to a SATA controller card that's installed in a mboard slot, the bios Boot Order or similar settings must be set to boot from SCSI before any hard drive.
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
If you were fiddling with connections,
- did you remove the AC power to the computer at ALL times while doing that ?
- did you remember to plug the molex or SATA power connector to the SATA drive back into the drive, as well as the SATA data cable ?
Check the current readings for what is supposed to be +3.3v, +5v, and +12v in the bios Setup. Those should be within 10% of the nominal values - if any are not, you must replace the power supply.
What capacity does your power supply have ?
"GIGABYTE HD 5830 Video Card"
System Requirements -
- 500 Watt or greater power supply with 2x 75W 6-pin PCI Express® power connector recommended (600 Watt and four 6-pin connectors for ATI CrossFireX™ Technology in dual mode)
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
If you need to get a PS with more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this: