|Update - apparently your monitor model is a CRT monitor, not an LCD monitor model.|
If it's had more than 5 years of use, or in any case , I recommend you throw it away. If it doesn't have the problem I mentioned below, it's probably reached the end of it's life, and you may not be able to get replacement parts anymore in any case. If you heard a loud buzzing or the sound of electrical arcing before it failed completely it probably cannot be fixed without you spending more money on it than it's worth !
If you DO open it up NOTE that the outside of the back of the tube / inner outside surface of the back of the tube have coatings that make it essentially a huge capacitor, connected via a large cable to the fly back transformer. The HIGH VOLTAGE charge stored by the outside surfaces of tube is often retained for a LONG time after the power to the CRT monitor has been removed ! DO NOT mess with, or try to clean the crap off, that large cable or it's connection to the tube under the large rubber grommet, or touch anything connected to that large cable or anything in the fly back transformer the cable connects to ! You can receive a LARGE HIGH VOLTAGE (up to 20,000 volts) electrical SHOCK if you do ! The CRT monitor was probably designed so that doesn't have enough current to kill you if you're healthy, but it's enough of a jolt that you may temporally lose control over your muscles causing your hand or arm or body to jerk away and you possibly injuring yourself !
It's like the electrical jolt you get from a spark plug wire on a car when the car is running, if you've ever experienced that, but possibly stronger than that !
Do not touch anything inside the case with both bare hands - if that charge discharges it won't likely go across your chest and possibly affect your heart if you do that.
Don't open it up at all if you have heart problems and/or have a pacemaker !!
If you use anything to insulate your hands, it must be able to withstand up to a 20,000 volt discharge !
I prefer CRT monitors and I'm going to continue to use them as long as possible.
If you prefer CRT monitors, you can usually find them used locally for a cheap price or for free.
Or buy yourself a new or used LCD or LED LCD monitor - the smaller new models are inexpensive - the new LED LCD monitors will produce a usable display for a lot longer, in theory, than new LCD monitors, and if you buy a used LCD monitor it will produce a usable display for a shorter time than a new LCD monitor will.
If you have a choice of more than one used monitor you can examine, look on the back of it - the date it was manufactured is often there somewhere - the newer it is, the more likely it will have a usable display for a longer time.
If you're handy, you could open it up to see if there is anything obvious you may be able to fix.
If you're not, you could take it to a local place that is authorized tor repair LG models or any place that repairs laptops and have them do that.
Note - many places no longer repair CRT monitors.
NOTE - this is about an LCD model.
A friend of mine has an older LG model that eventually stopped producing video, but the power led still lit up.
Out of curiosity I took it apart to see if I could find anything obvious I could fix
On one of the two circuit boards inside of it, It had one failed electrolytic capacitor, and one more that hadn't failed yet made by the same maker.
I replaced both of those capacitors with high quality ones I got locally from an electronics parts place whose owner used to repair desktop mboards (less than $20), and that monitor has worked fine ever since.
(It's recommended you replace all electrolytic capacitors made by the same manufacturer as any that failed that are not really tiny, because they're just as likely to fail.)
If you do take it apart yourself,.....
- note that you usually have to use something metal that's at least a 1//2 inch wide (to avoid damage) and very thin between the edges of at least some the case pieces after you have removed all screws to un-latch internal plastic latches on one side that are hooked into plastic catches on the other side that are holding the pieces together.
- you may need to carefully unplug wiring connectors before you can separate the pieces completely. .
- if any wiring connectors are identical, mark or tag them to make sure you plug them into the right places, however they may only go in one place due to the length of the wires they connect to.
- be careful.
The following is about defective capacitors on mboards, but it also applies to anything electrolytic capacitors were used on - power supply boards, computer cards, monitor boards, whatever.
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.
Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .
What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, fried Athlon cpus, etc.: