|Some bioses have a setting that allows you to change the amount of time the bios takes (waits) to detect drives - if your bios has that, try setting it to a longer time. |
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
"Clean and re-insert your HD connectors a few times (to get rid of any oxide)."
If the contacts are gold plated they can't have oxide. However, they can have been contaminated with something else.
If you have any IDE drives....
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
"850W coolermaster PSU"
A friend of mine had a 600 watt Cooler Master PS.
I noticed the top of the case above the PS was getting really hot when I was working on his computer to get rid of some software problems.
I found that the single 120mm fan in the PS was not spinning at all. I temporarily mounted a case fan behind the fan opening to suck the air through the PS until I had finished fixing the software problems, that cooled it okay, and then I got a case fan of the same size with dual ball bearings and at least as good a rpm and cfm rating and replaced the fan inside the PS .
I looked up the PS model on the web, and found it had only a 1 year warranty - that info was in ads on the web, not on the Cooler Master web site. The fan had failed to spin after less than two years of relatively light use - it probably has two sleeve bearings rather than two ball bearings or better.
I found many mentions on the web of Cooler Master PSs that had failed due to the fan failing and the PS overheating and being damaged because of that, or because of there being defective capacitors on their boards.
A short time later, the same PS failed to fully boot the same computer - probably due to the PS having overheated for who knows how long and being damaged because of that before I had replaced the fan. I replaced the PS with a better one and the system has worked fine since.
I no longer recommend Cooler Master PSs .
Many power supplies have more than one +12v output section - if so, that is shown on it's label.
If it has more than one +12v output section, one is for the mboard, another for the drive power connectors.
Rarely, one section of the board inside the PS malfunctions such that one of the +12v sections is malfunctioning or is not working at all.
E.g. We had a guy who had put together a brand new system with a brand new PS who started a Topic here not long ago who was getting no +12v power at all to his SATA drives.
The only way to check for that may be using a voltmeter or multimeter to check the +12v power at the power connectors to the drives, although some bioses may show more than one current +12v reading.